cygnusx1

Using the 77/78 280Z seat rails under older Miata seats. Open up the rear most rail mount hole of the Z seat rails a bit for wiggle room. Drill a new hole in the forward part of the rail to match the alignment of the threaded holes in the new seat bottom. You need to beat down the underside of the seat metal for clearance, but you can use spacers to compensate some to get more clearance for the lever mechanism. The more spacers you use, the less you need to beat the seat down, but your seat height will be higher in the car as a result. I beat down the seats for both rails, even though you only need clearance on the adjuster side. Doing it on both sides makes the cushion feel more symmetric to your rear-end later. I found a happy medium of spacers and hammering, which puts the seats about 3/4" higher than the stock bottoms, but at a much more comfortable lean angle than stockers. You will need to adjust the width, left to right distance between the rails a little with a hammer, dremmel, file, or leverage. It's pretty easy to move them +/- 3/4" in either direction just by leveraging them after they have been mounted, especially if you used spacers. The seat metal is pretty soft and allows flex left to right of each rail for very easy alignment to the floor mounting holes in the car.

Wow glad my maps are helping out! Been a long time.

http://forums.hybridz.org/files/file/30-turbo-engine-flow-map-calculator/

http://forums.hybridz.org/files/file/4-turbo-swap-wiring-diagram/

I have successfully performed two L28ET into S30 swaps. Both were into 280Z but my experience in both cases revealed faulty ECCS connectors. Horrible running, popping, poor idle, rev-limiting, lean running, all of the above are symptoms of bad connection at the two ECCS plugs. When you get to that point, push and pull each wire, directly at the back of the connectors, with the car running, and you will instantly identify the problem areas. Adding dielectric grease, and carefuly "preloading" the pins in the ECCS connector by slightly bending them to one side, seems to alleviate the issues. Not sure if it helps, but I have a pretty simple wiring schematic for the swaps over in the downloads section of hybridz. http://forums.hybridz.org/files/download/4-turbo-swap-wiring-diagram/

Yarn stood right up after I added the air trip device. Heat pours out at idle. Not sure how much it does to relieve hood pressure, but you can gain leaps and bounds there by simply blocking most of the nose grill.

It's called cost control. If they had to test each rad, and actually fix it like I fixed mine, they would have a different badge on the car, and it would cost more.

Because I can just about reach the oil drain plug from over the fender....from either side! Sooo much room.

 Drop some lube at the seals right where the jam nuts are.  That has helped me in the past.  Being methodical with the linkage is a must.  You are on the right track.  Without PERFECT linkage, setting up and diagnosing the carbs is impossible.Â

I feel the same way. Enough work. Just drive now. Sound is perfect.

I tuned the accel by watching WBO2 and observing engine rev response during tip-in. With Tunerstudio you can watch the "dot's and % rates" in real time and see the AFR. I rev it from idle and from a few other rpm points, in neutral, with various pedal rates, and observe/adjust. Then of course the test drive to make sure it works on the road. I seem to get better response by blending TPS and MAP. Again, trial and error over a few years. The tip-in feels fine right now. I get nice response with heel and toe shifting too. Albeit not a response like my Weber car, but pretty darn good for what it is. 100% decel fuel because it's only for when the throttle snaps shot, not actual deceleration, in my firmware version. I messed with it and it felt better when not pulling fuel, for the split seconds during "negative pedal travel". This aspect of tuning takes the longest to get close. It's not easy to get perfect. It's a final important detail that I messed with a lot, to get where it is now...it's still evolving as it everything. Sorry I forgot to zip the file. I rar'd it instead. http://www.win-rar.com/download.html?&L=0

0.020 stock overbore and an "A" cam from an L28. Should work fine with stock L28ET with very minor tweaks. As a matter of fact, when I swapped from the stock turbo cam earlier this Summer, it hardly required any VE changes greater than 2% on the map.

This map has a few years of street development with a few track days mixed in. L28 / EDIS / 42#high impedance injectors / LC1 / MS v3.0 / v2.867 Runs smooth. Good response. Nice power. EDIT: Running the "A" cam on a stock longblock 0.020" over, with P90. CurrentTune.rar

Hagerty made good when I got rear ended a few years ago, and when I needed a tow last week.

I finally upgraded my stone-aged laptop for a decent tuning rig and put my nose to the grindstone again. I was able to really improve throttle response by first verifying that my MAP and TPS signals were very clean with low noise. Then I set my thresholds very low, raised my lag factors to 90, and made sure that the AE curves were not coming on too strong. In other words, you want very little AE pulsewidth at low MAPdot and TPSdo rates, and ramp it up richer and richer for the higher rates. My problem was rooted here: Because my AE was too rich at tip in, due to me trying to "improve" throttle response, I had gone back and raised my thresholds and lowered my lag factors to prevent "over AE". Not correct! You should allow AE to happen at very light throttle/MAP inputs, just dont' let it be too rich at very small inputs. Here is what I ended up with today. My lag factors are all at 90. See image.

 I also have the issue.  I think it's just the timing of the injection pulse versus when you tip in the gas pedal.  Using X-Tau improves it but I can't get it to disappear.  I improved it with iterations of AE, X-Tau, and ignition timing, but it's still there.  I need to try again with a fresh set of plugs.Â

23zed, best hood mod I have seen to date. Both it's form and function appear perfect.

Good habits. Look Left-Right-Left before doing a donut! Car sounds feirce.

 I highly recommend installing a permanent fuel gauge in the fuel rail lines.  That's one of the most important and most often way to eliminate running issues.  FUEL>SPARK>COMPRESSION.Â

I like it. No issues. Just two black strips on the pavement, no ill handling, and some cash left in my pocket to spend elsewhere on the car. I would buy it again.

I am pretty sure "the man" won't come after you if you paint BRE stripes and DATSUN on your car.  I think the BRE graphics are now available from BRE. http://www.bre2.net/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=B&Category_Code=decals_sub_240Z looks like you are on your own with the stripes though.

If they're fake...NG. If they are real and functional...He!! Yeah!

I need to dig through my photos to get a mental cutaway diagram. I can't remember what the center "star" looked like. I refer to the small splined part that sits with the Belleville washers, in between the two side gears. EDIT: here it was I would need to know: 1) The "assembled length" in between the flats of those two "stars" when the diff is assembled. 2) The "ID" of the lip inside the "stars" that would dictate the maximum diameter of the possible spring.

 Ideally, the size of the available space where the washers normally house.  With the dimensions, I can calculate the spring that would fit in there with the right amount of preload when compressed during the assembly.  There may not be enough room.  By knowing the space I can work with, I could explore the options.  Belleville washers are the natural choice for a tight space with little movement, but maybe we can get something else in there.Â