cygnusx1

...The same blonde brings her car to the auto body shop after getting caught in a hailstorm. The body shop guy says, "Save your money and fix it yourself by blowing hard into the tailpipe. The dents will pop back out." So she goes home and starts blowing into the tailpipe. Another blonde walks by and sees her blowing into the tailpipe and says, "What are you doing?" She replies, "Blowing out the dents." The blonde passerby replies, "Silly, that won't work...unless you roll up the windows first!"

http://www.motormeister.com/suz/911_engines/911_engines.htm Read the last line.....?

If my wife didn't just buy a state of the art Washer and Dryer....Darnit! Presuming the rust is under control, that would be a sweet deal. It has everything you need. A great start to a killer Z. I wish there were better photos.

It's a ploy to ween us off of fossil fuel and into alternatively powered vehicles. It is one way to weaken our dependancy on foreign oil. Once we no longer need the foreign oil, we can go in and take over the whole world.....then free gas for everyone....it's really very simple. --Dr. Evil

Is there any crash data on the 240, 260, and 280Z cars and how does that data compare to a modern, similarly marketed, car. I was just wondering how safe or unsafe it is to drive (crash) an older generation Z car. Does anyone have a source of such information? My curiosity was sparked because an old friend of mine has gotten "soft" and claims that he doesn't want to have an old sports car because of the lack of safety features that were offered in them as compared to newer cars. I know he is right, but it can't be all that risky to be in an old Z for 3-5K miles a year.

SWEET!!! Nothing hotter than a red Z...especially one that whines like a biotch! Oh, Walmart wants those hubcaps back! LOL

Yeah there was a thread on here somewhere about the Ford Capri seals fitting our Z's. Viton is a tough material, far superior to buna. Not to mention I got them from partsamerica.com for about $19 for the whole set. We will see if they work. I have more work to do before I drive it. I have to retorque all the intake and exhaust manifold bolts, change the diff, convert to CV shafts, and install the AZC Big brakes front and rear...also the 12" of snow needs to melt and the salt needs to rinse off the roads.

http://album.hybridz.org/data/500/8779120K-rockers-P90A.jpg

Jersey thanks, I changed all the seals in about an hour and an half. The rockers had a small divet across each face but thats probably because they are hydraulic and the center part of the lobe rides the lifters 70% of the time. The wipe patterns look dead centered and even all across. I took a macro photo of the rockers at 120K miles. The old seals were very brittle but were still intact. I pressed down the new Ford Capri, Viton seals with a tube, until they bottomed out. Even though the rockers had that divet in them, I made the executive decision to put them back in the motor. It ran fine and quiet before, and they all show even wear. Plus, they are easy to change if I have to at a later date. I am working on posting the rocker photo.

Check this out. http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?p=340489#post340489 740Turbo92Wagon are you here yet? You will be here soon if you're not already so let me welcome you in advance.

Sorry guys, I don't have the FSM for the 83 motor with the hydraulic lifters. I am about to change the valve seals. I have the VC off, I have the new viton seals, the valve spring compressor tool, and a spark plug fitting for my compressor to keep the valves from falling in. How do I get the rocker arms out of the way on the hydraulic head so I can compress the valve springs and release the retainers? I don't want to guess blindly so any info might help. Thanks.

It takes horsepower to compress and flow air. No matter how you slice it, the bottom line is still the same. Turbos are more efficient only because they use some of the energy of from the engine that would normally get thrown out. Think about it this way: Place an exhaust restriction in an N/A motor downpipe that causes exhaust manifold pressures to rise into the 10's of pounds of backpressure and how much horsepower do you think you would lose? Well that's how much HP+ it takes to spin the turbo. It's not quite that simple but it gives a feel for the powers invloved. I had though about running a leaf blower strapped to the front end feeding air into my original N/A motor...until I found a running 83ZXT car on Ebay for $530. lol

To spin a turbo compressor at full song with an outlet pressure maintained at 15-20psi , just to give a perspective, probably takes about 20-40 horsepower+++ You don't get something for nothing... Without calculation, these are total guesstimate numbers. The actual numbers are big for sure. Now go wipe the iced tea off the couch.

Looks like a stock Z with the stock lower valence and a spook type chin spoiler attached to the stock valence.

Not sure about this but the 83 Turbo ZX I bought on Ebay had a fuel pump that looked EXACTLY like the one I pulled from my 76 280Z. I would swear they were identical, visually. It could have been the wrong pump in the ZXT though. If you plan on upping the boost, get a Walbro or high volume and pressure pump instead. Do a compression check on the motor before you pull it you want to see about 135-145 psi cranking with the starter. Get the harnesses also and grab a few relays, sockets, and pull the male AND female plugs for the harness connectors. In other words, snip them out of the car. Some will come in handy later when wiring up the Z. It makes for a neat wiring job. Good luck and welcome.

True about the low pressure behind the front spoiler except for the fact that the spoiler I use has a vent that directs air into the general area where I located the air filter. I should use it for brake cooling but...I just ordered the Arizona vented brake kit all around. One other point, I don't drive the Z in the rain.

That tubing I used is VERY hard. It has a very smooth internal surface also, the outside corrugation is not on the inside. It is not dryer duct. There is no way that pipe is collapsing under vacuum. It is just a matter of choosing the right stuff for your application. Metal would be nice. Just more difficult to do with my limited metal working tools. http://www.mcmaster.com has tons of tubing choices with specs.

If you remove that blue air filter in the pic above, you should be able to run an intake tube down towards the road and then you can either put the filter down there or loop the tube back up into the wheel well as I did. http://hvmp.com/dc/CIA1.jpg http://hvmp.com/dc/CIA2.jpg Of course I am not using the splash pan right now.

I just ordered the AZCar Racing brake kit all the way around with proportioning valve and line lock for short term parking brake. It includes 12.2" vented f/r rotors and aluminum 4-piston Wilwoods all around. I am now shopping for a 15/16" Master Cylinder to finish it off. I will let you know how it works. I plan on time trialing the car at Limerock again but this year I DO NOT want to boil the fluid. I know people say that the stock Z brakes can be made to work with 300HP+ motors but I really would feel better having that extra margin of error in the brake system.

The roads are COVERED with salt, dirt and ice. The driveway leading to my Z's shed has about 12 inches of frozen snow on it. The shed doors are blocked with drifted snow and the freshly waxed Z is hooked up to a 10watt solar charger on the shed roof. I would LOVE to test out the discs for the BEGI FMU. Buy me a ticket to California and arrange for a four wheel drive flatbed to haul my Z out of the shed and I'll do it. J/K It will have to wait for Spring. Meanwhile, I am shopping for a strong R200 3.54 diff and some CV shafts to prep for the Spring tune-up. I tore my diff up pretty good at the track last Fall.

Yes, I agree that I am losing power too early. Most likely it's because I am either leaning out or the knock sensor is pulling back timing. It could also be that my intake is becoming restrictive at those speeds. My intake does have a pretty tight 90 in it as it enters the AFM. That is a nice torque curve, Clifton. I wonder if that N/A cam is what's letting you spin past 6000rpms...

Wow now I see why I shift between 4500 and 5000 rpm. I have about the same setup so my curves must be real close to those. Is it usual to have such a wide area between the HP and T curves on an L28ET?

OMFG! A penny racer Z! I remember them well. It must be nice connecting the differential right to the flywheel eliminating the need for a trans. Sweet!

He was just kidding about the chrome cage. Notice the "j/k" after that statement.