cygnusx1

That's right. It probably was enough to relieve surge at 7psi but even with the large pressure differential to vacuum, the small diameter hose limits flowrate. No doubt the Nissan engineers calculated all of this to work at 7psi with the stock T3. I am going to plug off that hose as well and give it a try. BTW I am using 1.25" return hose for the TurboXS BOV (Bypass Valve) and it works well. There is NO sound from the bypass valve. It is stealthy but I miss the "pfffffft" between shifts.

Hmm, like they say, you learn something new everyday. In that case, I have two BOV's because I still have all the stock stuff hooked up, including that hose from the J-pipe to the intake manifold. I wonder if that is what is keeping the RPM's up between shifts Thanks.

Huh! Air going around the throttle plate like that simulates an opening throttle. Not a good thing when the driver has their foot off the gas and is expecting deceleration. You are saying that that system feeds air to the engine regardless of the fact that the throttle plate is shut? That is scary.

Dont forget for $1900 you get all brand new parts, a three angle valve job, free shipping, 3year warranty and unlimited miles. Yeah I only paid $530 for a WHOLE running 280ZX Turbo but if you want a turnkey long block without lugging all your parts around to shops for machinework and standing over their shoulder to hope you get a decent build, its not a bad price. BTW they will NOT build to suit. They build ONLY to factory spec and tolerance. I asked them.

Actually Bast is correct. The factory dump valve(pop off valve) is AFTER the throttle body. That does NOTHING to vent boost pressure when you snap the throttle closed to shift. You do need a BOV before the throttle plate once you get up over stock boost (7psi). Protect your turbo, get a BOV before the TB. And dont forget to either eliminate the POP OFF VALVE or tighten the preload with washers.

I'm running the Holley/Walbro with the stock FPR, stock lines, and added the FMU more recently. It idles fine at 30-40psi. Check your connectors.

Ok guys, how many days after the first drive will zspeed260 be asking about how to turn up the boost? I say 2 days. Good luck and let us know how the project goes. Here is my schedule. "I'm leaving it stock and reliable" - 1minute. 7-10psi in 2days 10-14psi in 2 months 14-18psi in 9months

This sounds like a pretty good option if you are considering farming out a rebuild for your motor. I emailed http://www.a2zengines.com just out of curiosity. They even come with 3-angle valve jobs standard. I am not sure if they will build with ARP bolts and/or custom specs.

Here is my version of the cold air intake allowing for use of AFM, A/C, and 2.5" I/C plumbing. I had to remove the belly pan for this. The blue bracket holding the air filter collar is a propane tank bracket from a barbecue bent, drilled, and bolted to a tow hook bolt. I know it looks like the tire would rub the hose but it's not even close. 225/50-16 on 16x7 Panasports.

Well yes, I can do the compressor test rig but I can only give an output fuel pressure vs boost. I am not sure how much value that has without reading WB02. Maybe we should split the cost of a WBO2. Shipping UPS ground from CA to NY may not be too bad. If you want to let's arrange via email. I will not be hogging the WBO2 much anyhow. You can use it first since it's still Z season there. Let me know.

Should fit ok. I had a five speed that needed the four speed bell housing to fit but I dont know where my 5 speed trans came from. Usually, it's an easy bolt in. Sorry, I dont have trans #'s handy. It should be F5S....or at least start with an F if its a Nissan five speed.

Oh boy here we go again.... Welcome to the turboZ swap. There are about a dozen ways to swap and setup the motor to go fast. Read some of the threads in this forum for the past two years or more and you will get TONS of info...even pictures and videos. I find myself urging to explain....again. Basic Swap --change nothing, muffler shop, and some creative air filter mount. 200rwhp, 220rwt $Cheap Stage 1 --same as above plus Grainger Valve to turn up boost, and a way to add a little more fuel if you go past 10psi. 220rwhp, 240rwt, $5-$200 Stage 2 -- ....and, bigger downpipe and exhaust, add intercooler, turn up boost a bit more 12-14psi, add a bit more fuel. 250rwhp, 275rwt, $400-$800 Stage 3 -- ....and, T3/T4 turbo (larger compressor), Programmable EFI and ignition, electronic boost control, 15-18psi, 300rwhp, 335rwt, $1200-$3000 Stage 4 -- ..and engine internals, bolts, head gasket, 18-20psi.....340+rwhp, 370+rwt, $3000 - $5000 *Don't forget brakes, suspension, and CV axles, after STAGE 1 *Add fuel using: hi-pressure-hi-volume pump, adjustable regulator, FMU, larger injectors OR all of the above. THESE ARE ALL ESTIMATES AND ARE OFF THE TOP OF MY HEAD. JUST ROUGH GUIDELINES FEEL FREE TO EDIT, GUYS!!!!! <<<FEEL FREE TO COPY/PASTE/REPOST MY STAGE INFO WITH EDITS>>>

Nice work. Are you running for office? You got at least one vote! There is no reason an FMU cant be "fuel curved" mechanically just as a mechanical advance in a distributor can be. An electro-mechanical fuel injection system can be as good as a programmable if set up properly. It just wont be as flexible. Set it and forget it. Let me know if you need another opinion on the FMU parts. I may be able to get a few more Z driving days in before winter really sets in.

I believe the flow vs fuel pressure for the injectors has been posted before. If not, here is a link to an example of what fuel pressure does to injector capacity. http://iroc.fbody.com/injectors.html GOOD READING --> http://www.turbosaturns.net/articles/understanding_horsepower.html

I'm in no rush. It has already snowed here and the roads are slick with salt. The Z is almost in full hibernation mode up the hill in the shed. I will be reading alot this winter. Usually by mid winter thaw, I have gathered enough parts and knowledge to drag the Z back down to my main garage and begin some wrenching in prep for the spring. Winter Goals prioritized: 1)CV Shafts 2)Inspect diff. (possible LSD if I find one) 3)Viton valve seals 4)Brake upgrade- rear disc conversion/vented fronts/race fluid. 5)Programmable EFI (maybe) I have been reading the MS threads and their website for about six months and I feel confident that I could handle the wiring and maybe even the programming... I want to see how the Spark/Fuel box pans out before I commit to anything.

Wedge open the wastegate it should be ok if it even runs with the open carb. Stay off the throttle as much as you can obviously. Good luck.

Bast. If you do it, I will too. I dont mean to be a copycat but when it's a good idea, it's a good idea. Let me know how it progresses...I have been kicking the idea of programmable FI for a while now and have only been on the fence deciding weather or not to do a fuel control unit or to splurge and do both fuel and spark. I am using the stock turbo ZX ignition and dist. I think that spark control would be invaluable based on my findings with manually advancing the base timing. I could probably find a used electromotive, crank fired, direct fire ignition system eventually and use the MS to just do fuel for now....lots to think about but I like the prices of the MS stuff along with the education I might get.

Oh bast..also don't forget the cost for larger injectors.....the FMU emulates larger injectors the MS does not.

LOL - Yes, I alway think the car behind me is some lowered race car with fender flares that wants to race me....so I drive faster.

I live about an hour from New Rochelle and have a hoist. I have no way of transporting it though. A full sized pickup might do it. If you want to borrow it and can transport it, you are welcome to. I also can offer advice and maybe a day of help to get you started on the right foot. BTW, Snow and ice mix in the forcast for tonight here. Once the salt goes down....it's over for the year.

Yeah we should start a hybridz WBO2 loaner program like the spindle pin tool.....anyone know where the spindle pin tool is??

Hacksaw for the boot and wire cutters for the wire. The TO4B has a larger inlet so I cut the boot back to where the diameter matched the turbo inlet. Now both ends of the boot have been cut off. The prototype aluminum duct never made it into the T3, it stopped in the AFM. The T3 died a natural death of 10psi at 110K miles.

I had to get real sneaky with my setup as I didnt want to cut any body metal at all. I have the AFM, a larger turbo, an A/C compressor, PCV plumbing, and the BOV air return to the Turbo Intake. That's ALOT of stuff in a small area. I will describe how I did my cold air intake. Start at the Turbo Inlet -> Stock ZX rubber boot shortened by about 6" with a fitting T'd into it for the BOV return ->AFM sits over the A/C compressor, front of the AFM is flush with the A/C clutch. -> 3"Cobra Head elbow on the front of the AFM points down towards the road->3" Steel exhaust pipe ovalized in the vice to sneak snugly between the radiator and the A/C pulley down to the bottom of the frame rail -> 3" Heavy walled PVC flex tubing ( http://www.mcmaster.com ) wraps under the frame rail and up into the front fender well extending into the headlight bezel between the splash sheild and the back of the headlight. -> Fram (about 6"dia x 9"long) cylindrical shaped cheap air filter from off the shelf auto parts store, mounted up in the bezel with custom brackets. It took me hours and hours and hours of scratching my head to figure that all out and more hours to actually make it work. End result is cold, dry, clean air, with a little bit of intake restriction from the tight cobra head 90 elbow at the AFM inlet. I dont think it hampers performance much as it's all 3" diameter. Cobra Head Elbow http://shop.airflowonline.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=AFSI&Product_Code=90CB30&Category_Code=CE2 This is a picture from before I did the IC and the cobra elbow. The aluminum duct got sucked in by the T3 http://hvmp.com/dc/LOW_DOLLAR_INTAKE.jpg

Being in the Northeast and my engine being a virtual shadow of yours, Bast., I have to chime in. When I was at Limerock last week, I was running the FMU at about 55psi, the boost at 14psi, and timing at 27btdc (according to the pulley marks). The air temp on the track was about 43 degrees. She was running great pedal to the floor. I didn't hear ping. I am not sure how much effect the air temp sensor has on the mixture with the stock ECU but my gut feeling says that is has to continue to adjust mixture at least down to zero deg F. So as long as you are not at the limit of the injectors, the EFI should be managing the colder air properly. With the added IC this becomes a gray area because that same temp sensor is measuring air before the turbo and before the IC. You just have to assume that Intake air temp varies about linearly with air entering the TB. In other words... ex. IF... Ambient=40, @TB=60 @Xboost (deltaT 20) THEN... Ambient=90, @TB=110 @Xboost (delta T 20) If you assume it's nearly linear, then the ECU and Air Temp Sensor know how to handle it already. That is, as long as we set up a good cruise mixture with the AFM spring to compensate for the IC in the first place. Assuming it's linear is probably a pretty fair assumption in this case. I could be way off base but I think AS LONG AS YOU DONT 100% the injectors, the cold air will not put you over the edge. It will only lower your redline (leanline) due to injector capacity being used to compensate for denser air. Maybe.

Thanks for the hot tip.