cygnusx1

Actually, there is a belt driven turbocharger out there. They used toothless gears to get the gear ratios required for such high reduction. Teeth would cause waaaay too much friction and heat to be useful at those RPM's. The toothless gears are called friction wheels. Basically, they are hard steel wheels pressed tightly together in an oil bath. I remember seeing a website for it a few years back. I think it was made in Holland....I can't seem to find the link anymore....maybe because the device might be extinct.

Grab the keyboard and start typing...keep a rag handy. hint-hint.

LOL it is scarry....the diagram even scares me. I drew it while covered in grease and soldering paste. The only thing I noticed missing is on the left relay, fuel pump relay, I don't show any 12v switched connection to pull in that relay....I can't remember why. I must have just tied it to the "new wire *1" that runs from the coil "vertical blade" to pull in the FI relay. EDIT..maybe not because, if so, the fuel pump would run whenever the key was on. In actuality, the pump runs only for about 5 seconds if the motor is not running...someone please explain. I used to use the Fuel Pump Module. The diagram assumes use of the module. Currently, I am running the pump right from the relay and the pump is grounded at the tank...no more module. The ECCS must be switching the fuel pump relay but I cant remember how I wired it. Either way will work but it's safer if the pump does not run without the engine running.

Yes, I know how it feels when the knee pops out. I had the same thing happen when I was inside the bathroom vanity changing the faucets. It is the STRANGEST feeling and stays pretty sore for a few weeks. Get yourself one of those stools with wheels on them. Or a hanging swing harness like the mechanic in The Road Warrior....I think it was in that movie. I did a rough, cartoon-like, sketch of the wiring in my 83-76 turbo swap while I was doing the wiring. It made sense to me while I was doing the wiring but it may not make sense anymore....take a look at it anyhow. You should be able to recognize the connectors from my sketch. http://hvmp.com/dc/TurboZ-WiringDiagram-DRAFT-1.jpg

Finished yet, how's it run? J/K Good luck and we are here to answer your questions...at least some of them.

Yup absolutely correct! I have NO idea what my timing advances to after I come off idle. I put good faith in the factory timing curve...and that may be a mistake but I have no say in the matter. Also, timing curves don't effect max power only, they effect the shape of the power/torque curve. I can tell you that more initial advance on a stock EFI will give you a "fatter" power/torque curve...seat of th'ol pants. More area under the curves= faster 1/4 mile times.

I am running 27 deg initial at 14psi and I love the torque and the engine growl as boost comes on. I am probably pinging at WOT but on the street I am hardly ever at WOT. I had it on the race track and I think I just about brought the engine to it's knees. I think it was pinging or on the verge of ping during full throttle uphill and down the main straight. I ran it for about 40 miles on the track like that and my plugs look like they went through a nuclear war. Personally, I like the torque of the 27 degrees. It is a 1983 motor with a higher initial advance spec. than any other year. It's a stock EFI with FMU set for about 55-60psi fuel at 14psi boost. TO4B Intercooled.

I would have done my math had I known my chemistry first. If we don't know the octane of the base fuel, we know that Ethanol pure is 110 oct. and the resultant of a 10% blend of 110oct and X oct. = 93 oct. then math can be done. But all we care about is the 93 oct end result so no math needed. Since I do have FI, atomization should not be an issue.

Hmm, I was just about to post a question about 10% Eethanol fuel. Last weekend I went out to fill up the empty Z to store it for the winter (or as long I can stand not driving it) at a local Mobile. As I was topping it off, I noticed a small home made sticker on the pump "Contains 10% Ethanol". I wondered if I had just killed the Z. I drove it for a few miles and it ran awesome with this gas but it was also cold out. It could have been running good from the cold air. I was wondering, however, why the heck is there ethanol? I know they used to modify the fuel here in NY for the winter to improve emmisions-"oxygenated" so they said. I figured this was just another one of those emmisions band-aids. So...110 octane? Why did the pump still say 93 then? If it truly is 110 octane, and does not have any detrimental effects, I should be thrilled. The price was in line with all the other premium gas around town. I am not too concerned with the reduction in fuel mileage in my Z anyhow. Somewhat confused....good, bad or ugly? BTW, I went to see The Incredibles movie...I had gotten free tickets. I bought a small bucket of popcorn and a small coke for $8.25! Forget making ethanol, the gov't should sell popcorn!

Try Alex Costa, he sent me a rebuilt T3/TO4B setup that fit the exhaust manifold and downpipe perfectly. All I had to do to make it fit was a larger intake tube and bend the wastegate actuator arm and bracket to line up. He is "zcarsmakemyheadhurt" on this forum. Reasonable price and good lead time.

About 5 years ago, at a local shop, a good quality paintjob and body prep with small rust repair cost me about $3200. I keep the car indoors and drive only in nice weather. The paint still looks awesome. I disassembled and reassembled the car to save $. It is a BMW Arctic Silver, base/clear coat. Had the glass out and the jambs painted also. Searching for a shop was difficult. Many people won't touch these old cars for fear of liability/rust and low profit. BTW - the Arctic Silver paint job on my Z looks waaay better than the Arctic Silver on my friends factory 5 series BMW. LOL. http://www.hvmparts.com/dc/A7.jpg

Yeah this voice over IP thing called SKYPE. Just install it and set it up and you can talk to anyone using SKYPE on their PC. Works just like a phone. It uses your PC mic and speakers or headphones. It works right through routers and sets up the volumes for the mic automatically. Works just like IM but you actually talk to your buds like a phone. IM has a talk feature as do alot of other systems like paltalk and others. SKYPE has a MUCH better sound and sets itself up automatically. I run Firewalls, Adaware, Antivirus, and SKYPE does not install any "crap" onto your PC. While you are using it, it can use alot of the PC resources but it works incredibly well. I speak with relatives all over the world like they were here. It also allows like up to 4 or 5 people in a conference call. Amazingly all free and unlimited....I hope it lasts. http://www.skype.com It has a search function so you can find people using SKYPE like a phone book. It's seems very PC friendly and safe so far. For a fee, you can use it to call landlines like real phones also. I feel sorry for the employees of phone companies.

WOW! After 12 years I finally figured out what trans i have. http://home.att.net/~jason510/tranny_ratios.htm (200sx CA20 10/83-10/84 Long Tail -3.592/2.057/1.361/1/0.813) That's why I had to swap bell housings.

Whew!! Thanks *breathes a sigh of relief

Uh Oh! Did we finally get the boot!?? I truly will go deeper into Winter depression if the Turbo portion is gone! Tell me it aint so. BTW, along with IM and all the other messaging services, try SKYPE. http://www.skype.com voice over IP that is worldwide, free, and nearly flawless. The sound quality stomps regular land lines and cell phones! Not kidding give it a try. Works from PC to PC for free. Maybe we should include SKYPE into the contact info next to IM id's.