cygnusx1

Thanks sir Tim240z

I still believe that this should be a sticky on the Turbo/Supercharger forum. Where do I put the glue? http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/turbo/

To minimize boost spiking in grainger type valves, use the shortsest amount of tubing between the Graniger Valve and the Wastegate actuator. Also use the longest, softest spring you can get away with inside the Grainger Valve. A long, soft spring won't change its preload when the ball compresses it as much as a short spring--less spike. I have almost ZERO spike at 13 psi with the dual, concentric, pen springs I am using. I did have to use a short piece of shiskebob stick inside the springs to keep them from bending sideways and catching on the inside of the valve body. Rigged, but it works very well. And wastegate stays slammed shut until 13psi. It can't get better than that.

I'd like to say that I think I brought up the dielectric grease for the connectors. But I did a search and RossC mentioned it way back in 2001. I had been using the stuff for over ten years in my NA. I would also like to say that when I brought it up here, my dielectric grease idea got shot down. But low and behold it works. I have the ACT 6-p,p,p,puck in my Z and lately when I push in the clutch for the first time of the day I hear a click somewhere under there....I should NEVER have looked at that picture of Jersey's fork!! Now it haunts me.

Classic metal fatigue failure. Nice job. So you DO know how to shift....

Awesome work! Keep us up to date on the thrills you get.

Three words. Cheech and Chong.

Turbo S30's running in the 12's with junkyard mods...that's nothing to sneeze at, V8 or not. How do you think my WRX does 0-60 in 5 seconds? Not a V-8 mind you; not even over two little liters. Its called TRACTION. Not to get into an American V8 vs Import motor discussion.....If you mod an American V8 to the extent that these low CC imports are being modded. The V8 will slap you in the face every time.

Go Jersey Go!! Break into the 11's. One small step for Jersey one giant leap for Z-kind. Good Luck.

Does anybody remember a few years ago there was a website where some mad scientist dissected the 280Z fuel injection system and actually documented each resistor and function on the ECU board. He showed how to "recurve" the factory ECU by swapping resistors on the ECU mainboard. He tested it all with a scope on a bench. Well, I don't know if that website still exists but I did print it out and found the information in my closet the other day. Would there be any interest here for that info? I should be able to scan it. Let me know.

OK Cool! I think my Z is finally happily idling and cruising in closed loop. I now believe that the green LED on the ECU indicates that the O2 sensor and ECU are "cross counting". Read below. QUOTED FROM : http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/O2Sensors.htm ......"In order to read the O2 sensor, most computers send out a certain voltage to the output terminal of the sensor. This is typically around 450 millivolts. Since we know that the sensor sends low voltage (under 300mv) when a lean condition is present and a high voltage (over 600mv) when a rich condition is present, the computer can count the number of times the sensor crosses the 450mv mark. Cross-counts are the number of times an O2 sensor crosses 450mv. A scanner can "look" at this for you. Even though you can't see the number of cross-counts without a scanner, you can use a digital voltmeter to watch the open/closed loop system operate. Just connect your meter as Illustrated above, while the O2 sensor is still connected, and start-up the car." EVEN MORE: http://hostingprod.com/@aa1car.com/library/o2sensor.htm

Yes 280ZX Turbos had a fuel rail blower. Make sure your check valve hold pressure in the rail after you shut off the car. The rail should hold pressure for at least an hour. Insulation? Try http://www.summitracing.com

Can anyone tell me what voltage they get from the O2 lead to ground with a full warmed engine idling? Using factory Turbo ECCS and O2 sensor. Also does the voltage read steady or does it swing around every two seconds or so? I can get steady 0.8v at idle and 2500rpms with no ECU LED flashing and no voltage swing. However, if I tune the AFM to try to get 0.5v it starts to drift voltage from 0.3v - 0.6v in about two second intervals almost simultaneous with the green LED flashing on the ECU. Is it Normal for the voltage to swing like that and the LED to flash at IDLE and at CRUISE? The TPS is working and set correctly.

Oh yeah, no question, I love the hydraulies. Super quiet and no fuss. I just don't like hearing stuff like, "When they fail what do we do???" with no real answers. I would hate to have to give up the P90A just because a lifter cant get hard anymore. So what can be done to keep the P90A's alive and kicking without spendig a small fortune?

I made it a mission tonight to get out my voltmeter and tinker with the AFM while watching the O2 sensor voltage. I also wanted to get rid of the annoying squeak in the rear hatch area that came when going up hills and then went away only after parking the car for a while. O2 sensor story: I wanted to see where I was after I read a nice webpage about O2 sensors and tuning with them. ( http://www.datsuns.com/Tech/oxygen_sensors.htm ). So I hooked up the meter and let it warm up it was reading about 0.3 -0.6 volts and swinging between the two numbers erratically. As it idled I manually moved the AFM pickup and watched the voltages change. So now I know it is working. I richened the AFM until I got a solid 0.8 volts at idle and at about 2500rpms. I went for a ride. It was running too rich. I came back and leaned the afm to try to get about 0.5 volts. As I approached leaner values, all of a sudden the volts started jumping around again between 0.2 to about 0.6 I thought that was weird but then again I thought maybe when you reach stoich, the sensor starts swinging back and forth through a range and correcting to maintain a good mixture. I also noticed that during this voltage swinging the green LED on the ECU flashed almost in time with the voltage. Hmmmmm. I think I get it. When the O2 sensor is in "range" it swings voltage back and forth and as it does this it flashes the green LED on the ECU. I went for a ride and it was flashing the LED when cruising and at idle. At full throttle the LED was not really doing much. Sometimes it was off and others on but mostly off. Bottom line it that it runs sooo sweet and smooth power from 2000rpm all the way through boost with no lurches or burps or anything. I think I got it!! Strange Hatch squeak: Loud creaky squeaky from he hatch area ONLY after going up a long hill. Once it started being noisy it would not go away until the car was parked for a while. I went through everything, bushings, interior, struts, gas tank, you name it. You know what it was!!! The exhaust system expands when it gets hot from going uphill and the muffler touched the inside of the rear valence!!! Once it cools, there is a 3/16" gap. It really grows with the heat!! It was not the motor shifting back. It is heat related. OK time for a typing break. I learned two things today.

Cool site: http://www.datsuns.com/ O2 sensor info: http://www.datsuns.com/Tech/oxygen_sensors.htm

Sorry I don't have a source for the hydraulics but I do have a question about them failing. What causes them to fail, when can I expect mine to fail and what can I do to prevent them from failing? I hate waiting for the inevitable to happen....I never even worried about it but now that you posted, murphy's law says that mine will fail within the next few months.

Good save ON3GO!!! My friend once took my new 5speed trans and slammed it from third hard into reverse!!! I was like WHAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA!!!!! ARE YOU DOOOOOING!!!!!!!! I rebuilt it soon after

I have digital cable service now and it has this channel called "Mag Rack" where I can pick and choose shows and documentaries by topic and play them on demand. They are currently running a "Restoring Datsuns" feature in the classic cars section. It feature Les Cannaday and mostly roadsters but it does have good footage of Z's as well as a real sweet blue 240Z he is building with TWM induction FI. sorry runon sentances when I get so excited. The show runs about 11 minutes. I dont think I can tape it to my VCR...you know these new digital rules. I may try to set up my camcorder and turn it into an mpeg or something so I can share it with the club if there is enough demand. It runs until October 20th on my cable network. Cablevision Yorktown, NY.

Very cool stories. I have never seen a Scarab Z myself. Does anyone know the location of a true Scarab factory serialized car? And what would one in good condition be worth. I know it all depends on whatever a buyer wants to pay, but a ballpark figure? I am only prying because I have a friend that may be looking to add a serialized Scarab Z to his car collection. Not to mention I would like to see one.

Z people and Scooby people have a lot of passion for their cars. They are generally cool folk. I know it's a general statement but.... I have one of each. 76Z Turbo 02 WRX I get more waves from Subaru folk in my WRX than I do from 300ZX folk in my Z. I RARELY see another S30 around here. Maybe once every year I see another Z. Passion goes hand in hand with compassion.

Is there such a thing as a "factory" or "dealer" original SCARAB Z or are they all user built kits. I have someone interested in collecting a SCARAB if there is such a beast considered "collectible" or "factory original". Is there any info about the origins of the SCARAB Z anywhere? Thanks

I wonder if the government knows that I turned up the boost in my Z past where it is supposed to be!! Now, I am scared! It takes sacrafice to make gains. Nothing comes free. Freedom has a price. How many more cliches are there on this?

Hehe hehe Don't make fun of the poor folks at Los Angeles Garment & Citizen.....what could they possibly know about cars and or english. Maybe it's the rare garment factory edition 240ZX and they are rebuilding the engine and the wiper motor. It purrs like a sewing machine. Just read another article from the same e-rag...."Missing Woman Found Dead in Trunk of Car Parked in Chinatown" --""It’s been a very difficult case from the onset,” Jette said. “The reasons that Sharon disappeared, the reasons she didn’t contact anybody—those are still under investigation." Well, duh why didn't she contact anybody? Maybe because she was locked in the trunk. No?

Here is a little more info on the upcoming History Channel show featuring 240Z's. http://www.garmentandcitizen.com/cgi-bin/garment/00027.html