cygnusx1

Well the fuel pump was running, I had spark, the injectors were firing, and the motor cranked strong but it would not start....I pulled a fuel line off the rail and it was still dry as a bone. So off I go back under the fuel tank I pulled the pump off again. The pump was running fine in the ZX before I pulled it. I wondered what had gone wrong. Since I have dealt with a stuck-open check valve before in my Z, I went right for the check valve again in the ZX Turbo pump. Sure enough it was stuck-closed this time! I swapped the check valve with the one off the Z pump and put it all back in. Crank and crank and WALLAH!!! We have ignition! It idles great and all the HVAC works. The gauges work and the alternator charges. Now I have to clean up the "test -bench" wiring under the dash and proceed with checking all the important engine stuff. Is the throttle response off idle in a ZX Turbo slower than the 280Z N/A motor? It seems like it. Onwards and forwards. Dave C.

How do you fit the TurboAFM, the VCM, and a ZXT motor in a Z with AC and still have a clear path to run I/C plumbing? Check out some of the tricks. Cut about 4"-5" off the stock ZX boot that connects the AFM to the turbo intake and custom bracket the Turbo AFM on the original AFM mount. Set it just above the AC compressor. When you cut the rubber tube Leave the PCV bung and enough room for a clamp. Mount the VCM on a custom bracket that shares bolts with the handy-light. Oops, I lost the spring and cotter for the throttle linkage.....this will do. This setup will allow room to run intercooler tubes around the radiator support. I will need to go to an electric fan to make room for the return tube to pass between the valve cover and the radiator. Intake air will come from a cylindrical Purolator air filter that fits up under the left headlight bucket. A flex tube will go from the filter under the frame rail; right behind the tow hook, and up to the AFM over the AC compressor. Oh and don't forget to make some heat sheilds and use check valves wherever you you take vacuum from on the Turbo Motor. Don't blow up all those HVAC controls with 7psi+. More to come. It is almost ready to fire up. Dave C. http://www.hvmp.com/dc <--more photos

Well, I have plenty of volts at the battery while cranking. I have it hooked to a charger while I play around with trying to start it. I am sure there is a minor detail I missed or misunderstood. Tomorrow is a new day and I'll give it another go. I am going to check to make sure the injectors are actually firing, that the fuel is actually getting to the injectors, and that the spark is actually getting to the plugs at the right time. I heard the fuel pump, I saw the spark jump from the coil wire to the strut bolt, and the motor cranked fine. Sooo, soon I will be in boost heaven!

Thanks SleeperZ--so I guessed correctly then! Dave C.

In the installation of the 83 Turbo Drivetrain and ECCS into my 76Z I came across two wires in the 83 ECCS harness. They are for the speed sensor. Now my 76 does not have a speed sensor, right? What to I connect those two harness wires too? Thanks, Dave C. http://www.hvmp.com/dc <--photos

Thanks Sam, By your decription, I found it. However, it was under the PASSENGERS side behind the glove box. You aren't british are you? Dave C.

The Fuel Pump Control Modulator case needs to be grounded. Once I bolted it up, the pump worked fine! However, the engine still won't fire up. I have spark at the coil--does that mean that the ECU is also firing the injectors?

I have just finished, I think, wiring the 83 Turbo setup in my 76Z. When I crank the motor with the key, I get spark and I hear the injectors firing. When I turn the key from run to acc or off, I hear the fuel pump barely piddling. I am not getting any fuel to the rail. I have retained the entire 83ZXT ECCS system including the Fuel Pump Modulator. It is all wired according to the Nissan prints. Problem - I have two Nissan prints: One shows the BLACK wire from the fuel pump and the sheild wire, going to the Fuel Pump Modulator only. The other shows the BLACK wire from the fuel pump and the sheild wire, going to the Fuel Pump Modulator A N D to chassis ground. I wired it the first way. Which way is correct? THANKS!!! When I'm all done I will return to the community, a procedure for wiring the 83Turbo Motor into a 76Z. Gimme Fuel Gimme Fire..... Dave C. http://www.hvmp.com/dc <---photos

Thanks! Your 240Z Turbo is going to fly! That is such a light car. My 280Z is quite a bit heavier. Yeah it's a great looking car but I will drive it and drive it right. That's what Z's are for - high dollar performance and looks on a piggy bank budget. Dave C.

Magical six wires? Lets see: Coil Tach Water Temp gauge ZX Fuel Pump Relay ECU inputs Fuel Pump Control Modulator inputs Fusible link for Fuel Pump Fusible link(s) for ECU Jumpers to convert to the solid state alternator Sheilded wires to ZX fuel pump Power connection from fuel pump relay to air regulator Somehow tie in the ignition switch.... I see lots of wires that need to be connected between the ZXT FI harness and the Z chassis already. Some of the above may be redundant and I am surely missing some. I am not an electrician by any means but I am just trying to cover all the bases. I bet its more than just six wires to get it all working right. When I get it right I'll post a procedure or diagram. Dave C. P.S. Thanks GrayZee for the diagram....huge help!

Does anybody have an electronic version of the 83 Turbo wiring diagram? If so could you email it to me or post a link to it. I am working on a procedure manual to wire an 83 turbo driveline into a 76Z. Thanks, Dave hvmparts@hvmparts.com

Maybe if I bend the metal tab and loosen the downpipe and push it as far towards the block as I can, it will clear. Thanks I'll try it. GOOD NEWS: I am working on a Word document that will describe in detail the wiring and grafting that needs to be done to run a 1983ZX Turbo driveline in a 1976Z. This will be a very valuable document once I am done. I will release it when my car is wired and everything works. So far I have rough wiring procedures written for the coil, fuel pump, ECU, alternator, tach, and water temp gauge. I need to actually do the wiring next to make sure I got it right. I am using ALL of the 83 fuel system including the fuel pump control module and fusible links. Photos: http://www.hvmp.com/dc

Where can I find the inline tach resistor in my 76Z? I am working on a wiring procedure for the ZXT motor swap into a 280Z. Thanks!

After lots of wrenching, electrical gets attempted this weekend. Has anybody actually fit the Turbo AFM and intercooler plumbing all under the same hood in an early Z? By the way, the ZX turbo downpipe aims slightly at the tension compression bushing in the Z thus requiring a custom down pipe from the turbo. Are there any other remedies other than replacing the stock ZX downpipe with something custom? Pics so far. http://www.hvmp.com/dc/

Check out some of the work I have been doing with my 76Z and an 83ZXT donor motor. I put the motor in the Z today and it fits. The downpipe points somewhat at the tension compression bushing so I'll have to figure out that dilemma next. Next weekend I tackle the wiring and some plumbing. I am going to mount the ZXT AFM right over the A/C compressor and run a cold air intake right down in between the A/C pulley and the radiator. This will keep the upper radiator support pass-thru's open for the future intercooler tubing. I also mounted an oil cooler to the front of the A/C condenser. I hope it runs as good as it looks. The motor is all internally stock for now. Plans are to get it running and debugged in stock trim and then to add the intercooler and bump the boost to 10 or 12 PSI. SEE PHOTOS: http://www.hvmp.com/dc/

Well I got the Nissan pilot bushing today and it is still a 0.003" interference fit. That seems a little tight for a factory fit. I am slightly concerned although I can still revert to plan "A" which was to machine the bushing OD. Can anyone suggest why the crank in the L28 turbo motor (originally automatic) has a tight pilot bushing fit? As fas as I can measure, the crank end ID for the pilot bushing is 20.00mm diameter. Does this sound correct?

I decided not to take a chance so I went to Nissan and got a factory pilot bushing. I will, however, check those clearances you mentioned, especially the ID after its pressed in. Thanks

Thanks for the info. I thought the cranks were the same until the ACT bushing was too tight. Since the cranks are the same, the bushing must be oversized too much. I will remedy it on a lathe and leave a reasonable interference fit. On with the swap....

Adapter has been removed. And the back of the Turbo Crank looks exactly like the N/A one but the bushing is slightly too big for the hole. Thanks. I may just have the bushing turned on a lathe or go to Nissan and get a ZX Turbo pilot bushing to see if that fits.

I am adding a clutch to an 83 Turbo Engine that was automatic. I bought an ACT clutch kit to match the flywheel and transmission I am using- 76 280Z. The pilot bushing from ACT does not seem to fit the crank in the ZX Turbo motor. It is about 15 thousands too big on the OD. Did the 280Z and the 280ZX Turbo motors use different Pilot bushig sizes? Maybe ACT just gave me the wrong bushing. The ID of the bushing fits on the input shaft of the Z manual tranny though. Anyone

This was on my Weber fed Alfa Romeo. I converted from Mechanical FI to used dual Weber Carbs ($60 from a junkyard with manifold) and left the FI fuel pump in. Since the Webers only want about 3psi, I put in a full flow return loop to the tank and wrapped one spot on the return line with electrical tape, slipped an IDEAL hose clamp over the tape, and tightened the clamp on the return line untill I saw 3psi at the Carbs. Gotta love those college days with no money. It worked for over 2 years that way. Rust killed it.

Let the photos speak for themselves. Next week I prep the '76 to receive this jewel. I can't wait!

The block is POR-15 Chrysler Blue Engine Block Paint. I bought the engine paint kit from http://www.porstore.com/ The exhaust manifold/downpipe/turbo compressor will be POR-20 Bright Silver. I also used a little VHT brake caliper paint for some of the parts. Cleaning thouroughly is the key. POR stuff is awesome. Wear a mask

Ebay $530, 105K miles Labor+Paint+Gaskets ---In Progress Awaiting its new turbo organ Old organ

Thanks everyone. Keep 'em coming. This is what us TurboZ people need to develop our machines. I will surely post pics of mine as it progresses. Right now the '83 motor is starting to look sweet on the hoist and the '76Z is starting to look like a root canal patient in a dentists waiting room.