cygnusx1

Sorry but I think I've been connecting and disconnecting ECU plugs the longest....! Just Kidding.. I am sure it has nothing to do with resetting the ECU and everything to do with resistance values of the crappy connections.

Just want to follow up here... Reconnected the ECU plugs and WHAM!@ Full power again all the time!! Cooooooool!

The WRX is an Impreza, an econocar, turned into a simulated rally car, it is great for everyday performance driving, I mean rain, potholes, dirt roads, and snow. Off the showroom floor, the WRX is NOT an great Autocrosser, drag racer, road racer or WRC car. OK, maybe it can drag and rally but only because of its AWD system and great key features. What I like about it, is that it's like a Swiss Army Knife of a car. It can do many things depending on what you decide to do with it. With a few mods, you can take it into any arena you choose. It is centered in between all the various types of driving and can go either way. The Z is a bit biased towards asphalt and dry weather.

Sorry couldn't resist..... The largest turbo is probably on a ship somewhere out at sea??

That's a good question. I chose to keep it factory after the swap so that I could trouble shoot if I had any quirks or problems after the swap. If you change too many variables during the swap, it may become difficult to diagnose any problems. Take a look around the forum. How may people have a problem which may be a small problem but an annoying one. Well if things on the motor are removed, bypassed, disconnected, or modified. How can anyone truly help you diagnose. It becomes trial and error. With the motor stock you can go around to make sure each and every component is doing it's job. When you find the problem part, you repair it. Once it is running good again you can go and make changes one-by-one. That way when it starts stalling, or idling funny, or running weird, you'll know what you did and how to undo it. I suppose you can do all of this while it's in the ZX too. But little, annoying, minor, problems seem to creep up after the swap.

OK I was thinking the same thing when I started the swap..."how can I get rid of everything ugly?" You know what, I left it all there. Once you clean and paint it all up, it aint that ugly anymore AND you'll be sure that it runs at least as good as Nissan intended it to run. Later on you can start eliminating stuff......Get it to run "FACTORY" first.

What a failed to mention was that my Z will hold about 0.97g's lateral on perfect asphalt. The Z suspension is dialed. My stock WRX suspension has 17" BBS wheels and good tires but NO WAY will it hold the same G's as my Z. Yes, my WRX's corner exit speeds are phenominal because I can power out of a turn right after entering it! And Yes, the WRX will kick you hard into the seat when launched properly but without practice, it ain't gonna happen. If the road is wet the Z has NO CHANCE against the WRX. In the snow or dirt......ROFL I'll say it again. I ran a 0-60 in my WRX with the A/C on, two people, full tank, lights on, wipers on, in the pouring rain, in 5.7 seconds. Don't try that with your Z. I use a 2002 TurboXS Stage 1 kit > Magnaflow axle-back, MBC, K&N, Unichip Piggyback ECU buddy. output goes from 227HP to 265HP for $1000 BTW, ON3GO, I never thought I would like that green so much but I luv it!

I have heard good things about this place.....http://www.michiganturbo.com/ I am not affliliated. My friend that runs the FLU Club, Fiat, Lancia, Alfa Romeo, highly recommends them. Anyone here ever have dealings with them?

Well my WRX is a Stage 1 meaning it has 265HP at the flywheel. I've also driven my friends STI a few times. My WRX feels a little bit faster than my Z and the STI feels a tiny bit faster than my Stage 1 WRX. I really need to find a peice of road and go back with each car and my G-Tech. The WRX I raced with the Z tonight was probably stock. Out of the above three cars, the Z is HANDS DOWN the most fun to drive.

Nobody replied...so here is my 2cents. I brought my 76Z with 83Turbo swap to a local exhaust shop and they made me a 2.5" smooth-bend stainless downpipe and a 2.5" open stainless exhaust system all the way back, mandrel bent. They used flanges at the end of the downpipe at my request for servicablility and they added the O2 bung and a flange to connect the EGR pipe. Now they did snap a bolt on my turbo outlet but the whole custom exhaust cost me $300 even. I gave them a Magnaflow muffler and tailpipe to stick on the end. So what I am getting at is try your local exhaust shops and ask if they'll do custom stuff....

I own a WRX and a 76 280Z Turbo. Tonight I was out for a little cruise in the Z and happened to come to a red light with straight, open, highway ahead. Next to me was a 2004 WRX. It sounded stock but it had some bling-bling wheels. I always wanted to race my two cars and here was my chance. There was nobody around so we went for it. We both did relatively clean launches and then opened wide. It was EXACTLY neck and neck up to about 70mph where I honked my horn and let off the gas for safety and legal reasons. He threw on the Hazards as a gesture of "thanks for the run". I was running 10psi in the Z without intercooler and everything else stock '83 motor with 100K miles on it. Throw in some curves, a higher speed limit, lawlessness and I may have pulled away....I need to get to the track...I know, I know.

Here is what I did and it works. '83 Turbo automatic 2+2 motor into a '76 280Z 5-speed. Please if anyone wants to clean it up to make it more professional, go ahead. Just don't sell it. It is for Z people by Z people. http://hvmp.com/dc/TurboZ-WiringDiagram-DRAFT-1.jpg'>http://hvmp.com/dc/TurboZ-WiringDiagram-DRAFT-1.jpg http://hvmp.com/dc I do not show the ECU and Fuel Pump Control Module because they are self explanatory...just plug 'em in where they belong on the ZX harness. Oh, and I dont show the coil wired to the transistor because you just leave it the way it was in the ZX. ENJOY AT YOUR OWN RIZK Dave C.

Jealous....don't be. Just do it. You have a great plan already, get your ZXT running great with all your mods and debugs. Get it setup how you like it. Just don't spend money and time on your exhaust and intakes just yet. They will need to be redone when you get the new body. When you find the right chassis, it's a relatively simple swap. Plan ahead. If it ran good in the ZX and you swap it right the first time, you will turn the key and drive it away faster. I did not cut ANY wires, drill ANY holes, or cut ANY body metal in my 76Z. All the cutting was done to prune connectors out of the ZX to use for the swap. I then used blades, spades, solder and shrink tube to tie the ZX Turbo FI harness into the 280Z. I have a CRAPPY diagram I made for the wiring. It may help some people that can read CRAPPY wiring sketches. I used EVERY feature of the 280ZX FI system including the Fuel Pump Module and the two green power relays from the ZX. I ran new wires to the fuel pump because the ZX FI system wanted those wires to be sheilded. I am electrically reclined so it took me about 3 days to figure out how the ZX FI system and ignition systems worked and then it took me another 3 to get it to tie into the Z. Good luck and keep your eyes peeled for an S30. MY WIRING IDEAS---http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=28134

I can't answer your question fully but my 2002 WRX idles bumpy and so does my turbo Z. In the WRX forums people attribute the rough idle to low engine compression. I wonder if that is true and would that apply to our turbo Z's.... As far as yout TPS switch and O2 sensor. I would confirm they are working properly, by the book, and then make sure their signals are getting to the ECU connector. I recently learned that just because the conector has snapped into the ECU socket, it dosen't mean the signal is getting there.... If you know you dont have any vacuum leaks, check your idle mixture screw in the AFM. Sometimes adjusting that screw richer or leaner will help the engine come off idle without that momentary bog. It is almost like the accelerator pump effect on a carburetor. The bog after idle contact open> the timing going back 6, could all be ECU functions that are meant to keep the motor from stalling. The ticking could either be the injectors dumping extra fuel to keep it alive OR it could be the oil pressure dropping due to the engine bog and deflating the hydraulic lifters (if you have those).... It sounds like your timing is being controlled by the ECU which is good. Dave C.

BMW dealers used to sell that "Techron" engine anti-carbon stuff in their parts departments. Maybe they still do. I remember back about 10 years ago when I worked at BMW parts, they had a huge campaign to get peoples intake valves cleaned of carbon and the "techron" stuff was part of the routine. They would take customers cars, remove the intake and exhaust manifolds and hi pressure flow crushed walnut shells through the combustion chambers to get all the carbon out. They were claiming that it helped to keep a smooth idle and cleaner emissions along with a bottle of "techron" at regular intervals. They also had released a list of BMW approved gas stations...Amoco, Chevron, and Exxon. Correction, it was about 13 years ago. I was still driving my 1972 Alfa Romeo Berlina. Dave C.

Just when I was trying to save money....another magazine subscription calls! Thanks, I'll check it out.

Someone should do a little tech article describing all these T#'s and what they mean. like: T3 means what? T4 means what? Trim means what? Maybe I should pick up a book for a change..... HERE IS WHAT I THINK I'VE PICKED UP HERE: I think the stock ZX Turbo is a pure T3/T3 that means both turbine and compressor housings are T3 type? size? model? whatever.... I think T3/T4 we refer to here is a T3 turbine and a T4 compressor housing. This combo bolts up to a ZX exhaust system but the air inlet and outlet may be different (larger?) Turbines and Compressors can have different "wheels" with different trims. Trim value is not related to the T3 or T4 or T#.......housing, it is simply a physical property ("compression ratio") of the wheel inside the housing. Compressor and turbine wheels can be changed independantly but must fit properly into the housing. I am just guessing up there^ but that is what I deduced from lurking the board. Can someone pick up the ball, fix it, and complete the story? THERE IS THE SPARK.....lets get a good educational thread going!

Alex, Shaft has a little bit of end and axial play. Not huge play but enough to start thinking of a rebuild or replacement. What amount do you charge for a stock rebuild and what do you charge for a step up? Like a better compressor wheel, machined housing with a balance job? Assume using my existing core in rebuildable condition. Thanks, Dave C.

I turned up the boost on my many mile old turbocharger to 10psi from stock. I have driven it a few times this way and it makes great power but.... When I start the car in cold weather (25-35degF) if I get on boost a little (3psi or so) with the car not fully warmed up, I hear a vibration squeel from the turbo bearing. It's the typical sound of a bearing with too much clearance OR no oil. Once everything is warmed up, it works fine and makes 10 PSI easily. I have not yet checked for oil in the j-pipe. I am running Mobile1 10W-30. Should I start shopping for a new turbo, a rebuilt one, or do I have an oiling problem, or both? If you guys think I may need to replace the turbo, what and where? I am looking for 240-250 RWHP, low end torque, with stock electronics, stock mechanicals, and injectors. A good intercooler will be part of the equation and I would like to re-use the stock intake pipe and exhaust mounting arrangements. Dave C.

Murphy's law says....."The more recently you found that rare item you were seeking, the closer to you one will pop up right after you don't need it anymore." I finished my swap about 3 months ago and I live about 25 minutes from that car. I looked for months for a donor

I'll second that! 13psi today accidently(yeah right) while I was testing my home made boost control valve is WAAAAAY faster than my 76 N/A motor. Take it from me my N/A motor was stock and my 83T motor is stock (except now I tried 13psi ) ...gotta get an intercooler QUICKLY!!!! Does cold weather make up for lack of I/C? Dave C.

I suppose if I had no choice I would try it but why not just take what you need from a turboized 280ZX? Much easier swap, more likely to work well, and more info available. If you already have the Volvo stuff, sell it on ebay and get Z stuff instead. Not saying it wont work but....why cook a burger with a cigarette lighter when you have a barbecue.

Thanks, I have been dreaming of a faster Z for many years and I finally got off the couch and did it!

ROFL I think I'll leave the rubber glove on there all the time and cut a hole in the hood. I will rig it up so it looks like a "middle finger" sorta thing..... OK benchwork to do--I love it. Thanks dudes!

How did you open the POV, drill the rivet out?