cygnusx1

My 76/83T hybrid is running so nicely that I decided to make a ball-spring "boost controller" for it. I made the BSBC (Ball Spring Boost Controller) and set it with a bike pump and a gauge to hold 10psi. I took it for a spin and the car is WICKED FAST. The good news is that my pop off valve works. The bad news is that my pop off valve works. It is blowing open at 9PSI which is where I would like to run until I get an intercooler. However, I want my BSBC to limit boost, not the POV. I really don't like the idea of plugging the POV port. I would rather set it up to Pop at about 10 psi for now OR make it adjustable. Has anyone modded the POV and any other thoughts or ideas? THX Dave C.

WOOHOO!!!!!!! Burning Rubber Again!!!!!!!!! I got it! The EFI wiring harness was routed too close to the clutch pedal so when I pressed in the pedal, it would nudge the wires. This caused the ECU plugs to loosen up a little everytime I pushed in the clutch! I pushed the plugs in good-n-tight on the ECU and re-routed the harness and WOW it runs great!!!!!!! AWESOME. I got my baby back.

My turbo Z conversion ran well from day one but now its developing a really bad power drop off under load. It pulls nice and hard with 1/4 to 1/2 throttle and builds boost to 7psi if if I creep up the gas pedal a bit. After 1/2 throttle it falls flat on its face and coughs, pops, and sputters and has no power. It is a BONE STOCK '83 turbo setup in a 76 Z with 100K miles on the motor. NEW-> CAP, ROTOR, WIRES, PLUGS, INJECTORS, FUEL FILTER, O2 SENS. Timing tried at 20 and 23 BTDC, Tried running with Knock Sensor Disconnected, Disconnected and reconnected cleaned all EFI Plugs. Compression 135 to 140 all cylinders, Head Temp sensor reads 1750ohm @ about 80degF., smells rich and bumpy idle (always did) ANY IDEAS? It is making me nutZ.

I changed all the rear end body/lights gaskets and even sealed the vinyl under-hatch panel that lets fumes in through the hatch latch. With the windows shut I get no smell in the cabin. The exhaust comes in only when the windows are open while driving stop and go. Putting the ventilation fan to "4" helps a bit.

Smells like a Z; rich with hydrocarbons. It don't smell like a stinky catalytic converter (sulfur/rotten eggs) because there is no cat. Maybe a cat would help. Has anyone cured the stinky, eye irritating, open window driving, cabin exhaust smell in a Z with a catalytic converter? Good thinking dudes!

Wow, my car is falling on its face during WOT and high boost as well. It ran great until I put in some older NGK's I had laying around and I fiddled with the ECU. I was convinced it needs new plugs but first thing tomorrow I am going to disconnect/reconnect the three plugs on the ECU. New NGK's are also on the way.....I hope one of these two things fixes my power starvation at WOT. By the way I put in the old NGK's because I couldn't live with the Autolites I had in there.

I vote we make Bastaad525 the official tester for everything. If it works for him it's damn good!! You have the worst luck....you should get a rabbits foot or something.

With those heavy bars, it does not handle well unless the road is smooth. From what I understand, in order to keep the tires flat on the pavement in a Z, you need to minimize body roll. The Z does not benefit from a modern multi-link suspension so roll causes uneven loading across the contact patch. I do realize that springs can also control roll. So you suggest leaving most of the roll control to the springs rather than the swaybars?

Are you putting an 83 Turbo motor into an early Z or are you looking to just modify the 83 280ZX T with intercooler and boost controls? You may want to give Bob Sharp Nissan a call in CT. He has a long history of building and racing Z's of all kinds. He can at least point you in the right direction. Bob Sharp Nissan. 83 Federal Rd Danbury, CT 06811-4039 Phone: (203) 830-4100

I figured out that to launch smoothly it must be launched hard. In other words no clutch slipping. However, any slipping on my part causes shudder which is almost violent. I can hear the drivetrain in shear panic. I actually had to make an "rise-limit" bracket for the nose of the diff because it was pounding around so much during the shudder. All of my rubber mounts are relatively new along the whole drivetrain so it is probably not them causing the problem---yet. It is my first puck clutch so maybe thats just the way it is.....

Sorry I was unclear. It only shudders while I am lifting the clutch pedal to engage the clutch from first gear. In subsequent shifts 1-2 or 2-3...it shudders a bit but I shift quick and match revs best I can so I dont get it then.

I have Tokico 1" lower springs (200# or 250#), Tokico Illuminas (usually on 1), poly bushes in the front control arms, poly T/C rod and sway bars bushings. Sway bars are Suspension Techniques 1-1/8" Front and 7/8" rear and I use bump-steer spacers. I installed front and rear tower bars. I use 225/50-15 tires and with all that^ it handles AMAZINGLY well on a smooth road. Not much can stay with my Z in the curves. It gives Super neutral and predictable handling. When I encounter bottle caps, I shudder with fear. DON'T go this stiff for just the road! I feel for the unibody. I am planning on taking the suspension stiffness down a notch with easier springs soon. Anyone have any suggestions for a good street spring?

Congrats....its like a new life now with a turbo. Bastaad525--go ahead turn up the boost this way those valve seals won't suck in oil.....LOL J/K good luck to both of you and I am here with answers. Maybe not the right ones but answers anyhow.

I recently finished my Turbo Swap and used the original 280Z flywheel with an ACT 6-puck clutch. I did not do anything to the flywheel other than lightly sand the surface to take off the shine. Now it shudders pretty badly, especially after it has been driven and warmed up. The bell housing was dry. There was no evidence of oil from either the trans or the rear main while I had it open. I am planning on pulling the flywheel and having it cut or purchasing a performance one over the winter. Would this be a flywheel problem or a bad clutch? Originally, the N/A motor with my stock clutch and this flywheel did not shudder unless it was very humid out and the car was cold. edit: The 83 turbo motor was automatic which is why I used the 280Z flywheel.

Ive had the gtech original model for three years and I like it. My biggest problem is finding a level peice of road with no traffic to use it on. I tested my Stage 1 WRX in the pouring rain with A/C on, a full tank of gas, and a passenger - 0-60 in 5.7sec. I then tested my friends automatic WS1 Firebird and got 5.1sec (in the dry of course). I have not yet tested my Turbo 280Z........Any day now when the bad weather breaks. I like the gtech for its simplicity and repeatability. I would not rely heavily on the actual numbers it gives but rely rather on the change after the mods. Make sure you use the same peice of road before and after with closely matched weather conditions when looking for comparisons. Those new fangled models look great too.....

Will an 82 Turbo ECU function fine on my 83 Turbo Motor with 83 electronics Thanks, Dave

Not a dead thread yet... Pop pop pop on decel is what I get in my new swap. I have 2.5" SS. DP and all the way back with a 2.5" "See-Through" Maganaflow at the tail. It smells rich after engine braking. I confirmed the TPS working. I drove it with and without the switch with almost no noticeable change. I am almost convinced that an FI Z with a free flowing exhaust will decel rich no matter what engine is in it. My N/A did it and now my 83 Turbo (factory setup) is doing it. I know the N/A was supposed to do fuel cut above a certain rev and then resume fuel below a certain rev but it alway smelled rich anyhow. My 83 Motor has all new injectors and all sensors, wiring, timing all check out good. It still goes put-put-pop-put when decelerating and is stinky. It seems so common among the "swappers" that I am beginning to accept it. I may try to rig up a switch to turn off the injectors or ECU manually during decel to see what happens. Dave

It is soooo much work to polish aluminum from a cast finish! Personally, I would pay someone to do it and spend my time working on the car in another way....like detailing the engine or interior. I have seen some amazing stuff come out of Wheel Techniques in CA. http://www.wheeltechniques.com Their before and afters photos are NOT B.S. I have first hand experience with their work. Great stuff. I am not at all affiliated with them. I have had friends with destroyed wheels turned back into Bling-Bling.

In my NA Z, I played around with the gearwheel in the AFM to change the mixtures within the AFM useable range. However, there really is only one spot on the wheel that gives a nice smooth idle so I left it there. I never had the luxury of an exhaust sniffer to get it perfect - heck there is NO emmision control testing in my town anyhow! I will give it a whirl with the Turbo Motor.

I wonder why they run rich after transplants??? It must be the ground loop quality because nothing else has changed except for the fuel tank, and lines. Hmm, maybe we should run a big steel braid loop and tie all the FI points, motor, battery and chassis to it. It ounds like it may be worth a try - nothing to lose except for cost of braid wire. Over in the Subaru WRX forum, people swear by the difference of running big ground braids everywhere to smooth out the FI system performance. When I did the swap, I was extremely careful with the grounds. I dremel polished all the contact points on the motor, body, and harness to make them clean and shiny. I then used a bit of silicone grease and stainless steel bolts to be extra sure. My AFM is undisturbed and is still factory sealed. I am not saying that it is fine but it has not been abused. I wish I had a way of quantifying the "richness". Right now I go by smell, idle smoothness, and exhaust pop. I want to test the head temp sensor and the O2 sensor. What readings should I get at what condition? I cant find an FSM anywhere. I was getting 0.3-0.5 volts at the O2 sensor last I checked at idle fully warmed up to 180 degrees.

Just a note....I am still running rich on decel and idle. I also noticed some weird stuff regarding my ECU green LED so I started a new thread. http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=26103

Hi I have completed my Turbo swap and it runs great except for a couple of things. 1) It seems to run rich idle and decelerating with the TPS set properly. 2) After warm-up it idles a bit bumpy and smelly. 3) Turning the idle mixture screw in/out on the AFM has no effect on idle quality. 3) Green LED is lit with key ON and after warming up it flashes erraticly> on----off-on-off-----------on-off-on--------off-----------------on-of-on...etc. like morse code. LED does this ^ at idle AND while reving steady at 2000-3000rpm. When I let go of the gas pedal, as the revs come down, the light goes solid green until it hits idle. Then it goes erratic again. FACTS: ECU is 83 Turbo automatic remanufactured Oxygen Sensor is a new Bosch Auto-Parts unit All stock 83 Turbo sensors are being used and are wired in 83 Turbo Motor 5-speed Z tranny All new injectors, tuneup parts, and timing set properly. May have a tiny leak where the custom DP connects to the wastegate Exhaust shop busted one stud off the wastegate- GRRRRRRR Anyone know if the LED behavior is normal? And is this connected to my rich idle and decel? Thanks, Dave C.

Take a look at some of my photos. They may help you out. #2 is to raise the idle when the AC is turned on. If you dont use the AC then you can leave the vacuum hose off #2 #1 is the engine idle speed controller it should go to that little, steel, vacuum rail that gets screwed to the outboard side of the intake manifold. Ultimately that vacuum line connects to the VCM or Vacuum Control Module that is tied into the ECCS system via the FI harness. #3 is the EGR that sucks exhaust into the intake during certain driving conditions for emmision control. It should go to that little, steel, vacuum rail that gets screwed to the outboard side of the intake manifold. Ultimately that vacuum line connects to the VCM or Vacuum Control Module that is tied into the ECCS system via the FI harness. BTW "that little, steel, vacuum rail that gets screwed to the outboard side of the intake manifold" is missing in your car.

Which route should I take for making boost adjustments on my stock 83Turbo motor. 1) Grainger Valve. 2) Adjustable length wastegate actuator rod. What are the advantages/disadvantages? Any photos of your adjustable boost setup? Thanks. Dave C.

When you put in the LSD did you bump any of the fuel lines accidently? Timing chain stretch is relatively easy to check. See any service manual. I doubt it is bad enough to cause surges in power but you never know.