cygnusx1

To drop any ZX motor into the S30, you dont need the driveshaft from the ZX. You could use the entire S30 driveline including transmission. If the "donor" car is nice, you are probably paying a decent amount for it. I would not butcher it. For reference, you can find good running ZX Turbo cars with 100K miles on them that are rusted to death for between 400-700bucks. You can still sell most of the parts off of them anyhow. Oh and to answer your question 2+2 Engine will be fine in an S30. It's the same. SAVE THE "WHALES" -- oh, I mean the "ZX 2+2's"

Wanna hear 11:1 blow through "6 into 2" twice pipes with tripple webers and nothing but twin glasspacks. It's the twice pipe setup form Jim Cook and I think also his headers. http://www.hvmparts.com/dc/NYRALLY/Trippple%20WeberZ.avi I built this with friends after school about 17 years ago and it still exists and runs.

I finally got tired of looking at the rusty Toyota 4-piston calipers on my Z so a broke down and bought a G2 brake painting kit. Since I like red calipers on silver Porsches and Vettes, I chose red for my silver Z. Take a look.

What you want is the POR-15 engine painting kit. It is the ULTIMATE engine paint. Check out my photos. Link in signature. This paint actually requires a semi-rusty surface to adhere the best. You can hit this stuff pretty hard with a hammer and screwdriver and it won't chip. you can order it here: http://www.prp-porstore.com/

Two pumps in parallel will double the flow and keep the PSI the same as one pump was. Two pumps in series will double the pressure and keep the flow the same as one pump was. These rules of thumb apply to positive displacement pumps (almost like our fuel pumps) and are NOT factoring in plumbing losses due to pipe friction so when I said "double", I don't mean EXACTLY double. And when I say "the same", I don't mean EXACTLY the same. I think thats what I think. Dave

Whatta ya mean not pretty? That engine compartment is super clean! Oh by the way you put the battery on the wrong side.

zcarsmakemyheadhurt is building me a T04B with a 300ZX water cooled center section for my 280Z with 83turbo motor. I was thinking, would it be feasible to T into the two heater core lines right where they go into the firewall and run them behind the motor over to the turbo? I would think those heater lines can move enough water for cooling the turbo bearing. Am I all wet here? Dave

I have the car up on stands waiting for my new TO4B turbo and CV half shaft adapters. I have the inner and outer tie rod ends off for cleaning inspection and repacking while I wait for parts. I would like to add grease to the steering rack while I am at it. How do I grease the steering rack in my 280Z? Also, can the steering column be greased or serviced in any way? Thanks, Dave

OK, I am a little embarassed to submit this link but here is how I documented the wiring I did during my swap...It may help you. http://hvmp.com/dc/TurboZ-WiringDiagram-DRAFT-1.jpg

I was looking at water injection as a way to allow me to raise my boost without worrying too much about detonation. However, from what I am reading here, WI may be overkill when using an intercooler at 12-14psi with stock eccs and stock injectors.

This is what worked for me. I just put an 83 turbo engine that was automatic, into my 76Z with a 5-speed. I used the 76 280Z flywheel, the 83 Turbo Starter and one of Nissans 5-speeds rear section bolted to my original 4-speed bell housing. HOWEVER, this drove me nuts for a while>> When you take off the automatics starter ring gear and expose the back of the crankshaft, you MUST remove a spacer/adapter from the back of the automatics crankshaft. It looks like it is actually part of the crank, but it isnt! Take it off! -- Listen to vashonz and I

The alternator will also overcharge if it is not getting a good reading of voltage level back from the battery on the "sense" input of the alternator. I think it is the "S" on the diagrams and maybe even stamped on the alternator. WARNING: IF you are in a 280Z, and you are reading high voltage with the charge light on, check your fusible links...... http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=32315 read my new thread ^ mine was blown and caused exactly that problem. FYI -Mine is a 280ZX alternator with jumpers in place of the mechanical regulator to convert to solid-state regulation.

I just found a toasted fusible link under the hood of my 76 Turbo Z. It is the Right-Front fusible link of the four that are mounted on the relay bracket under the two white plastic covers. My tailights were intermittent, the dash voltmeter, and coolant temp gauge were all reading strange. After poking around in the car, I found the burnt fusible link. It is the first electrical problem I have had in my Z in 14 years (6 months as a Turbo). The diagrams I have are real tough to read. I put in a new fusible link and everything went back to normal but after 1/2 hour of driving, the link was pretty hot again. Does anyone know what that Right-Front link feeds so I can start tracing wires? Thanks, Dave

I am thinking about adding WI to my turboZ. I want to run it up to 12-14psi. It's a totally stock 83 L28 Turbo motor. I will add an I/C soon also. I also plan on doing a turbocharger upgrade very soon. Anyone have any water injection kit experience? I have seen WI kits from 200-600 bucks. What should I look for in a WI system or should I not go there at all? BTW - I really like the new look and layout of the site. GOOD JOB!

No, the dishwasher drain hose goes from the valve cover down to the intake boot just after the AFM. It is just an illusion. I soldered up some 1/2 inch copper water pipe and elbows to get the reach I needed under the throttle body and down to the rubber intake boot.

Are there any off-the-shelf solutions for a more solid mount under the diff nose without the annoying noise of a solid metal mount. Perhaps a urethane mount? Dave

Well, I went out to the shed yesterday, got two shoe-fulls of snow, and cranked over the Z to wake it up. It fired in 1/2 second like it really wanted to go out for a ride. I turned on the lights and the fronts went on but no rears. I flicked the light stalk off and on again and about 2 seconds later, I saw the red light reflect in the rearview mirror. The rear lights all came on. It must be a bad switch contact in the stalk. You think?

The only trouble I have with my P90A is that my injectors are too loud!

My recently finished turboz is sitting in the shed connected to its solar battery charger waiting for the snow to go away. I had it out about two weeks ago before the snow. I noticed that all the rear lights are out...what would cause all to go out? I havent gotten the will power to go into the 5 degree and dark shed to diagnose yet but I want to get a mental head start before I get in there. Any ideas? Everything else seems to work fine. Maybe this belongs in the electrical section but being a recent turbo swap...

I am at my parents house today and browsing their local Pennysaver car ads and saw this. 1982 Datsun 280ZX Turbo 69K Turbo, Auto, Black, 2+2. $1500 914-234-9747 Location: New York/Westchester Area IT IS NOT MY CAR NOR DO I KNOW ANYTHING ABOUT THE CAR. JUST AN FYI.

How bout this? http://media.ebaumsworld.com/index.php?e=bubbrubb.wmv http://www.ebaumsworld.com/bubbrubb.html

I work on a budget. Time is money and it took me 13 years to get my Z the way it is now. It will take me the whole Winter to get me a new turbo. Zcarsmakemyheadhurt, I will give you a buzz when I am ready.

Just so as not to mislead anyone, this AFM gear adjustment will change your mixture for idle, lower RPM, and light throttle driving only. Idle mixture alone can also be adjusted by turning the large flat head screw in the side of the AFM. Counterclockwise on the screw is leaner and clockwise is richer. That screw adjusts the amount of air allowed to bypass the flapper. Therefore, air that passes under that screw is unmetered. Have fun and mark things before you adjust them like Jersey says.

I am working on a procedure for wiggling the connectors....I'm on page 87 and should be ready to post soon...

http://www.targanewfoundland.com/2003TARGA.htm#2003TARGA Look down the list of entries and you will find links to photos of a nicely setup 76 280Z that ran the rally Newfoundland this year. I saw a bit of in on TV and the poor Z smacked a seawall, and hard too! I hope they are OK and that they get it all together for next year. I think that Z was Turboized.