cygnusx1

Congrats on the startup and good luck. Keep us posted. Thanks.

I'm running factory spec NGK plugs at the factory gap. I also set my FMU to bring 60psi fuel at 14psi signal. I must be getting close to "tuned". If I gently part throttle into boost it seems to load up and miss and blow smoke. If I hammer it, it stumbles a TINY bit and then build to 14psi by 3700rpm and HAULS!....it seems hit or miss and it seems to depend on how hard I slam the pedal down. My hunch is that it goes rich under mid throttle load and then when I go to full throttle after that its too loaded up and snorts and pops and makes smoke on the way to full boost. Hmmm. Weird.

Hey, I bought one of the ebay pipe kits and I have a bit of it left over...it is 2.5" OD and stainless but if you think you need any of it let me know. I think I have a straight, a 90, and a 45 all with about 6"-10" on either side of the bend. I also have a few 2.5" silicone mesh couplings. I you may be able to at least do part of it with 2.5" and just get a reducer to 2" for the other parts temporarily. Dave.

Ride on and when you are in your Stang beware of the Hybrid Z's! Good luck!

I got it running pretty good today. Tonight we took it to Dunkin Donuts to get some ballast. When I started it cold, it idled ok and as it warmed up it seemed to slow down to about 1000rpm and steady smooth idle. As I drove away, is stumbled for a few light accell's and then it seemd to get better as it warmed up. I punched it in 3rd gear from about 2200 rpm and it built boost to about 14psi with pretty good power. When I let off the gas it kind of does that fwa-fwa-fwa air noise which I think is because I dont have a BOV yet and the air is "bouncing" off the throttle plate. After about 10 minutes driving it started to bog at over 5psi boost and load. I drove home for about 15 minutes at about 3k - 4k rpms and mid-throttle light boost. I pulled into the garage and shut it off minimizing the idle time. Here is a plug. What do you think? Mixtures have been ALL over for the past few days as I have been fiddling the AFM wheel. 83 Turbo, T04B, Spearco, 2.5" exhaust open, Stock Turbo ECU-AFM-Injectors, FMU brings 50psi fuel at 12psi boost, base timing 24btdc, 110K miles on motor. Dave

No blow off valve to leak yet. But I am going to hunt for vacuum leaks with a vengeance tomorrow. Lean at idle has leak written all over it. I just can't seem to find one but I'll try spraying tomorrow. By the way when I richen the AFM a bit to get a rock steady idle at 800-900 rpm , my boost gauge shows 20 inches of whatever for vacuum which is a good sign. When it starts to stumble with the "lean" idle mixture it reads only about 10-15 inches. More than you ever wanted to know about the AFM: http://www.roversd1.nl/sd1web/airflow.html

I am in the same boat right now and by playing with the idle mixture I can get the pop-pop-bump-stumble out of the idle. As a matter of fact, I could probably stand a nickel on edge on the motor when I get the idle mixture right. To do it I need to turn the wheel in the AFM one way or the other until it gets the sweet spot. The problem is when its at that sweet spot at idle it runs wrong under power I have ALL of the manifold "controls" connected and working and I still get a lumpy idle when the driving mixture is set to run good (butt dyno). I find either, or, but never both. My mind is spinning with "rigged" workarounds for this problem. If I get a solution I will let everyone know. I personally don't think its the manifold thingy's since we both have very similar idle problems and two different manifolds. BTW, start signal is wired properly on mine. I am sure you saw this post too... http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=34554

Timing is set stock 83 setting, I believe its 24 btdc. I tried raising the idle via the stop screw and it smoothed out a bit at 1100rpm but after a minute it comes back down to 800 or so and begins to lope. I can remedy the stumble by pushing on the AF meter arm richwise about 1/16" I guess it's jst going to be a balancing act until I get rid of the AFM and stock FI. I also have ALL of the control gadgets on the intake manifold still connected and operational. Maybe some of those need to go but I'd hate to throw variables at variables right now. I suppose I can play with timing and mixture and idle speed but without an AF Ratio reading, I am shooting in the dark or am I? At idle, I can find the "too lean" and the "too rich" points and then set the AFM spring in between. I guess that's as precise as I can get without high tech tools. After all the "correct" mixture, it is a moving target as idle changes with AFM adjustments. Jersey...yes afm=pita. Any timing suggestions? Thanks, Dave (I smell like HC)

I just finished playing with the AFM wheel after installing a TO4B hybrid turbo, a good sized spearco IC, 240sx TB, Walbro pump, and Begi adjustable FMU. Stock 83 EFI, 83 Turbo motor, stock new injectors, all sensors working to spec and no vacuum leaks I can find. Before the FMU gets bashed, it is currently set to do nothing and my fuel pressure sits at about 33psi with vacuum connected and about 45 without. The car ran strong with the stock turbo but also idled a little ruff but not as bad. In order to get a real smooth idle, I have to richen the AFM by turning the wheel...the bypass screw is already all the way in. Once I get a rock steady idle I go for a spin and it seems to run rich. I think its rich because it bogs a bit and throws a bit black smoke plumes. If I lean out the AFM to where the car barely idles (like a hot cam) the car drives much stronger without the bog or the smoke. Any simple suggestions. I know the best thing would be to replace the EFI but..... One of my suspicions is that I had to mount the AFM on its side and that may affect the flap. Thanks Dave

I am not in a rush so I will wait to see where this thread goes. Keep us posted. When I get working on the seals I will post my experience as well. Thanks.

Thanks very much! Dave

Does anyone have a source for Viton stem seals for an 83 280ZX Turbo (P90A head) motor. If not Viton any other suggestions? Thanks, Dave

Both relays look the same, green cubes. Also get the fuel pump control module (metal box) if you are gonna use it. I put an 83 Turbo Automatic in my 76Z 5-speed. I also used the fusible link box from the ZX to feed both FI and FP relays. http://www.hvmp.com/dc good luck...and we're here if you need help. Dave

The second black elbow came from a truck supply place. airflowonline.com I think it was. Although the guy from ebay will do anything you want you can add stuff to his kits. I think the kit was around $250 or so which is cheaper than trying to peice it together most other ways without a bender and welder. In my 14 years with my Z I only had one time where it ran hot. The problem was air-lock in the cooling system after flushing the system. It got real hot on the highway but ran OK at low speeds. I was baffled for a while. I finally figured it was and air pocket and parked the Z with its nose up a steep hill and with it running, I slowly poured water into the radiator to allow the air to come up to the radiator cap and out. It worked.

Yeah the pipes and connectors came from the "ebay" kit. I actually used about 2/3 of the pipes that came in the kit. No additional bending needed but I did use a hacksaw to cut lengths. I was very worried about this part because I don't have access to a mandrel bender or welder. This kit made my day. I have to still clean the pipes and hit them with steel wool to shine them up but they worked out perfectly. I dont think that the pipe blocks air flow through the radiator very much but I haven't driven it yet. here is the kit pic from ebay:

I just finished mock up on my spearco. I didnt cut any metal off the Z and I have an AC compressor, an AFM, turbo distributor, and a cold air intake from under the left headlight bucket...It took me HOURS upon HOURS of head scratching to make it all fit without slicing or mutilating any part of the original body. I did run the "cooled" air tube back behind the radiator but I plan on insulating that section of tube. Oh by the way the rad. overflow bottle and vacuum can are under the I/C just behind the spoiler.

Project Update: Spearco Intercooler 23.5x8x3 (ebay- xtremecoolers@yahoo.com) 2.5" SS IC Pipe Kit (from ebay Jason - jstonestang@adelphia.net) TO4B Hybrid Turbo (rebuilt by Alex zcarsmakemyheadhurt - hybridz) 240SX TB upgrade (from zcarsmakemyheadhurt) Holly fuel pump (summit racing) BEGI Adjustable FMU - (with grainger valve to activate at any boost) Mr. Gasket 16" E-fan (summit racing) fits perfectly. Stainless Brake Lines KVR Pads 16" Panasports I had to relocate the radiator overflow and vacuum canister down just behind the air-dam on the little mid valence support bracket. Fabricated brackets for the FMU, Fuel Pump, Rad Bottle, Vacuum Can, Ign Coil, Intercooler. Havent driven it yet...I still need tires, some assembly, and I'm sure, alot of tuning. Nice Kit from ebay:

Crankcase vent open to atmosphere? Do that on the "airtight" EFI system and you have created a vaccuum leak. Any air that has been measured by the AFM must leave through the exhaust or your mixtures wont be correct. Any opening in the motor (valve cover vent or blow off to atmosphere) will cause mixture calculation errors. Pull your dipstick or loosen your oil cap on an airtight Z motor that is tuned properly and the engine will stumble.

It looks good on paper! I will let you know how it works out. If I get it running nicely I will seek out a Dyno to get some facts and figures on the fuel curve/rpm/hp/torq. If I dont get it running nicely I will seek out hard engine parts to replace the busted ones Stay tuned. I still have a bit of assembly and fabrication to do. Good thread. Lean is good for beef!

Yes I know its addictive, I turned up the boost in my WRX within 2 months of buying it new..and I'm conservative bastaad525, The FMU I got has onset adjustment. All it does is bleed the boost signal so that the diaphram to raise the fuel pressure acts more slowly. I understand that ideally the FUEL CURVE should be BOOST, AND RPM dependant. But I'm really going to try to use the FMU to keep from getting too lean under WOT and at Max boost. After reading your reply, I thought about that grainger valve I built for the wastegate actuator. If I put one of those in the boost sense line of the FMU, I can have the FMU sitting pretty doing nothing until a preset boost around 90% of my max boost setting at the wastegate. That should keep everything running on pure stock ECU parameters until Max boost. Larger injectors would be nice but I just cant see changing them just yet. I will look out for all the pitfalls of the FMU and will try to make it work. My argument, like yours, is that the stock Turbo EFI system is pretty much capable of handling intercooled, 10-13 psi based on the general consensus here. On that note, I would like to run on that edge but have that FMU "band-aid" up my sleeve to keep from leaning at the breaking point. I do not race and dont drive it much, so for the few occasions that I get next to a "Hawnda" at a light , I dont want to worry about going lean.

Well I just wanted to run through my current project. I successfully dropped an 83 Turbo motor/eccs into my 76Z last year with a SS 2.5" open exhaust and downpipe. It ran great BONE stock with 100K on the motor. I had tons of fun but I knew the 100K turbo was going to fizzle soon. Next I made a grainger type controller and boosted to 10psi. I had fun for about 2000 miles and then geriatric turbo started to hobble. "zcarsmakemyheadhurt" has hooked me up with a TO4B hybrid turbo and I picked up a nice new 17" x 8" x 3" Spearco. I am adding the adjustable BEGI FMU for boosting the Fuel pressure on boost. I subsequently purchased the Holly (Walbro 265) external fuel pump from Summit to help acheive the fuel pressure and flow that I may need. I am also going with a 240SX Throttle Body and a nice Mr. Gasket 16" electric fan which is very thin and should give clearance for the IC return pipe; again from Summit. I am still assembling the machine and I plan to tune it conservatively at about 14psi boost peak. I think that the FMU and stock 83 fuel system will be able to keep me in the right A/F mixture range at least up until 14psi boost. I won't be racing the car officially. I am going to drive it to shows on nice weekends and run a few twisty roads around town. I hope to see anywhere from 260-280rwhp and 300-315 rwft-lb when I get it on a dyno. I reinforced the front diff mount by bolting a stainless strap to the upper part of the mount and wrapped it under the crossmember with a hard rubber strap sandwiched under it to act as an anti-noise cushion. CV's are in the future plan. I will follow up as it progresses.....or blows up Any further suggestions, comments, tips and tricks? Dave

Blow off valve? Why would you take your foot off the gas anyhow?

I just want to be useful so since I have been spending TONS of time researching ways to plumb my spearco to my TO4B I though I would share some of my findings. Here are some resources: http://www.burnsstainless.com/AluminumTube/aluminumtube.html http://www.burnsstainless.com/Hardware/SiliconeHose/siliconehose.html http://www.bakerprecision.com/purosil7.htm http://www.turbohoses.com/Couplers.htm http://www.atpturbo.com/ http://shop.airflowonline.com/ OBVIOUS: http://www.ebay.com Dave

Search google for G2 and brake paint. It is a popular chemistry set of ingredients ready to mix for painting brake parts. I bought mine on ebay. It is extremely durable and easy to keep clean. The little silver Z was just a cardboard cutout I made as a stencil and a can of silver header spray paint. A trick I learned from Martha Stewart I am in Putnam County, NY which is about 1/2 hour North of White Plains on the East side of the Hudson River.

I have heard that a classic VW Bug chrome front bumper wll fit nicely on the front of a Z. Has anyone tried this and are there any photos or tips? Now that I mounted my Spearco Intercooler, the large '76 bumper looks like it will significantly block air flow into the front end. Dave