BLKMGK

Check out his article -> http://www.autospeed.com/A_1121/page1.html Love that site. I may be building one of their boost controllers soon

DTAfast? Oh yes - they use GEMs which is the software that the AEM computer's software is being based off of. At least that looks like GEMs - I've got the WEB site for them here somewhere but that all looked pretty familiar. BTW a group buy for Supra owners is being put together for the AEM PnP computer. Can you say $1400 or less?! Somebody pinch me - if this is as good as it says Motec is in trouble! We'll see, I'm waiting to hear feedback on eval units right now. The race software demo is a brute but that sucker is WAY capable! Anti-lag? Not a problem. Full throttle shifts? No problem, switch on the clutch pedal cuts fuel or whatever but keeps the turbos spinning (fuel in the manifold). The future looks quite bright

Heh, check this out - I'm getting a boost gauge that is peakhold, has a warning light output, and can playback up to 30seconds of time Tell me this sucker won't be a TON of fun to screw with! Only trouble is it only reads in BAR but I can make the conversion if I need to (shrug). Is an ApexI EL 60mm electronic puppy. I'm looking forward to playing with this cuker - will let everyone know how it goes when I get it.

With my fuel cell it wasn't even possible - we tried. Most fuel cells fill in the middle - too sttep a slope to the filler unless you drop the cell so low it'll hit curbs when you back up IF you're going to the trouble to try this I strongly urge you to just put a cell in to start with. Consider having a custom unit made or modify a new aluminum cell instead. Move the filler to the back and go from there - coulda' woulda' shoulda' I'm afraid...

This thread talks about it's install on a Supra but the company sells the boxes for customer install so with the addition of a few wheel sensors (and EFI of course) we ought to be able to have traction control on the Z too! Hrm, this oculd be pretty sweet! The AEM ECU guy has already said though that their new ECU can handle this so perhaps that would be a much cheaper way to go since we'd need an ECU for the EFI anyway... We'll see - need some bolt-on ABS too!

Check out this site ->OZ WB O2 Prices on those sensors have fallen from $300+ to just over $100! The add-on controller box can cost as much as $400 to buy but these guys are selling kits to build a suitable unit for fa rless. You DO end up needing a display unit - it can't be helped unless you want to go nutz building and programming one of those too. I WANT one of these and will be speaking to a friend abouot it ASAP, he loves to build stuff like this I could do it I think but he's FAR better with the solderingdetail work and has access to awesome equipment. Anyone else interested?

Will that insulation you used be able to take the incredible heat from th ebulbs? Sounds liek a sweet way to go! I've got a "backup" set of housings and bulbs off of E-Bay awhile back with "city lights" but never put them on. The price you got is a good one!

Head over to ChevyTalk forums and get into the EFI area. There's a Holly engineer over there who knows this stuff cold! There are some Holley intakes coming out that may interest you including a tunnel ram looking one Also, price out what the current Holley EFI intakes run - less than $500 including rails and they're already setup for injectors. A throttle body would still be needed though so some fabrication or additional dollars would be needed. Their ECU (Commander) is VERY nice if you're looking to NOT spend a million bux IMO.

EFI pump on a carb applicaiton? I don't think that will work too well! The pump will be madly circulatingheating th efuel while the cab sips what little it needs. A recipe for heat and aeration if you ask me. Also the regualtor might be overwhelmed by th epump and end up pouring gas into th ecarb but that's a guess. Anyone tried this? am I nutz or might this work?

Anyone see the HotRod mag on the newstand? Some company is selling 377 shortblocks pretty cheap with Hyper pistons. IMO that's pretty sweet and worth looking at!

I think your first problem is going to be that injectors are meant to be pulsed, holding it pen static will damage it by overheating. You need some sort of driver to pulse it and it would probably help if it wasn't some static pulse. Simply spraying a jet of fuel in there will cause you to run rich in some areas of the RPM curve and lean (or maybe just right) in others. If ALL you want is to send some fuel into th epipe don't use an injector - use a nitroous nozzle. It's designed for constant spray and you can pill it up or down to change the amount of fuel more easily.

Beware galvanized - I wouldn't touch that stuff with a ten foot pole. The fumes will make you sick! Always wondered about those rods - anyplace to get them online? Lone, keep us posted on your progress!

Short answer? No way! The base was designed for 305 motors and on a 350 they run out of breath early. On a 383? I wouldn't try it and expect much. However, all is not lost. Have a fabricator weld bungs and create standoffs for fuel rails in your current aluminum carb intake. Purchase or fabricate an aluminum elbow and then run a Ford throttle body on it or use one of the carb type throttle bodies. Add an ECU, some programming, and you're good to go. Force-EFI.com (think that's it) can do this conversion and custom burn a chip for you too if you'd like. It's still not a budget solution IMO but a 383 has some decent breathing requirements that you'll have to feed one way or another... P.S. This is what I'm doing. $200 for the bungs etc., $100 for the elbow. Looking for used TBs on th eMustang boards and I've already gotten a used pump, filter, and a deal on a regulator. Yet to gather is a set of 30lb injectors and an ECU. IF yuo wanted to you COULD use a stock Ford EEC-IV, calibrated MAF sensor, and other parts to run this. I don't know how well this woudl work but I've been told by EFI guys that it can be done. The distributor is the only part I'm not sure about getting setup.

Ah okay, it just looked to me like it was multiple ignition boxes - I know the rotary guys often end up doing that for some reason.

Halmeter and all the others cannot make up for the response curve of the stock O2 sensor - one is no better than any other if they use the OEM sensor tuned for stoich14.7:1 All it can do is give you a more accurate reading on a sensor who's response curve is tuned for the most sensitivity at a point where other than max power is made. Better than nothing but not something I'd rely on to keep my motor from melting down. As for the EGT, you'll find problems there too. How do you know what tempt to tune for? If you're sensor position is different than someone else's then their temp readings will be junk for you and vice versa. EGT don't always read hotter as you go lean, they can supposedly run hotter if the car's tuned such that raw fuel is burning in the exhaust too. Some people actually do that intentionally BTW - it's an "anti-lag" strategy. I've actually got a dual sweep EGT on the shelf and will be putting an EGT in the Supra too. I used the dual sweep unit to diagnose a hosed injector once when I found that one side always ran colder than the other on that motor. EGTs aren't completely useless bu tthey work best if you've had your motor tuned, noted the "normal" EGT at that tune, and then watch for deviations IMO. I don't expect to get much out of it in the Supra honestly but it'll be a nice toy Seems most pillar mounts come dual for the Supra and I needed to fill the second one. EGT was recommended...

I'll be interested in seein gpics of th eR230 knuckles and hwatnot when you're done. Unfortunatly I've already got a brake solution an dwheels too - I need something that fits within pretty much stock constraints (shrug). As for th eSupra rear - I'd absolutely go for the latest gen as it's th eone I know is rock solid tough. Interestingly enough following a forum posting on swapping rear gears it sounds like the N/A Supra MAY have the same strength rear! Those ought to be cheaper Here's how the ratios stack up from that thread -> turbo 6spd-- ~3.13 turbo Auto-- ~3.72 Na Supra---- ~4.2 One of those guys has a 90 300ZX and has swapped another motor in it, I've asked him to come visit and tell us all about his swap as there's always interest here in different swaps http://www.supraforums.com/supravb/showthread.php?s=&postid=130257#post130257

Heh, do what I did back then - dig his e-mail out of the RX7 forum and invite him over. He's been here, might even be reading this with ears burning if you've got questions goto the source. Chances are the price for his was so high because of the quality and the machining costs. There were a fair number of pieces too - might not need so many for a Z? IMO your best bet would be to buy a set of Energy units as a model and then replicate them in the material of choice. Document it too as others may want it afterwards. Heh, then figure out how to juggle 500 orders like I think he did You might want to look into Heim joints for some areas while you're at it....

FWIW, I replaced my shiny chrome 1wire with a $30 unit from NAPA awhile back. The chrome one died, probably from ignition pulses from the coil being grounded into the chassis (ahem). I believe I wired it by simply hooking it up like the one wire (main wire to the whitered HD wire that was stock to the alternator) and then jumpering one of the remaining spaded connections to that wire. I got the instructions from an URL that was posted here int he archives and from looking in th eJTR book. I ignored the warning light stuff and so really have only two wires on my alternator with just one hooking to the harness. Lone if yopu need me to snap a pic or anything I will - just give me the word offline or whatever. As a side note - I found out that using my "kill" switch hooked to ground doesn't kill the car due to feedback from the alternator - guess this is why they specc'ed hot side? I'd appreciate some advice on fixing that problem (relay?) after we get Lone straight

The RX7 is a fine car, mine handles like a dream and people STARE at it constantly when it's on the road. Frankly, that part of driving it is pretty disconcerting and it took me a LONG time to get used to it. I have NO doubt the Supra will get fewer looks, I don't mind. I've honestly never heard of anyone swapping a different motor in for the Supra TT engine. The reasoning is pretty simple really - the stock motor doesn't lack for much! Many of us want to swap motors because the original motor doesn't meet our needs, stock bottom end Supra TT motors have made WELL over 500HP without ever being really opened up... I DO see some Supra motors being swapped around - into RX7 and into Lexus that originally came wiht the N/A version of that motor. FWIW - there are apparently significant differences between the N/A and TT versions. I'm just waiting for someone to drop a Supra straight 6 into a Z. I'll take measurements for anyone that wants them when mine shows up in a few weeks but from the brief eyeball I've already done I'd say it's a go. Toyota factory NEW shortblocks go for aboout $2K. Grab a junkyard head, some accessories, and fab a header or buy one from HKS - it would SCREAM! I really want to see this. Supra 6speeds go for about what a T56 does I'm told ($1700 I've seen already) and I've been told that they have been known to handle as much as 1,000HP. I find that amazing and am skeptical but they DO take 500 pretty easily it seems. Who's going to do it first? P.S. Scottie looked at a Supra rear suspension. To keep this somewhat on topic - has anyone else considered that rear? I've never seen a good pic or drawing of it though unless Scottie posted some. They apparently handle 500RWHP pretty easily.

Umm, I honestly don't know Oh wait - you're right and I'm a moron for not posting that part of his comments! http://www.rx7club.com/vforums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=11219&perpage=30&pagenumber=4

My relays are Hellas and you can find a source for them if you do a search here on HybridZ. Awhile back I wanted to buy a couple more for my electric fan and a fellow member found a site for me and posted it. In the end I didn't buy them as I got a custom harness for the fan from a friend and it had relays. Honestly, I'm not sure that 40amp relays are required. My fuse is far lower than 40amps so in theory it would blow before the relay fried. I DO think the Hellas are good quality relays though and that you shoudl buy both their relays and their relay holdersmoounts. The holders are pretty well weather sealed which is good! I do realize that burning one out would be "bad" in that you can't find them just anywhere but if you do this right you'll have two of the same type with holders. If you blow the low beam relay in the middle of nowhere you simply swap over the highbeam unit Had I used the same relays for my fan I'd have had even more "spares". I think Pete did this sort of thing with his car - many common parts just in case... Do be aware that the harness I used was either wrong for the Z or that I miswired something when mine was first done and that article written. The lights worked but any vibration clicked on the high beams, it was pretty weird. Seems the relays were getting like 7volts - just enough to almost click the relay and vibration was enough to trip it! Moving one wire fixed that... Datsun switches GROUND not hot for the headlights - keep that in mind. I ended up using a service manual to get the wiring figured out on mine and an hour or two with a voltmeter scratching my head. IF you've got a 240Z I can try to help you figure out which wire goes where either using my manual or my car if the colors are the same. In my case th erelays got juice all the time and the ground from the multiswitch was what triggered them. Probably garbage unless you understand electricity so ping me here if that makes no sense to you.

Jimlab has posted here before in response to one of MY postings in a previous flame-war they had over there. I used to post some in the RX7 forums too and I DO still read them some but I've decided to sell my RX7. My reasons are mostly what Jim talked about except that at my present HP level the car is pretty reliable (needs clutch). So why sell? Because I want MORE and becuase, like he pointed out, there aren't many rotary places around that you can trust much less find. I'd have to goto KD Rotary in PA to get quality work and stand in line too. Peter F. is actually just up the street from me (literally), think any of the local rotary guys trust Peter The Pirate? I've only found a few. So, I'll sell my RX7 and buy a Supra instead - then I can tinker! Frankly, I'd LOVE to install an LT1 or a Supra motor (that swap has caught MANY eyes!) in the RX7 but the car is worth too much money and the swap too expensive. The RX7 isn't my second car it's my primary car, the Z is my second car Mustang is third You'll find flamefests like that one on the ZCar WEB site too if you dare post about a V8 swap - lately though many just point them here which is a welcome change. Many purists in the Z, RX7, and Jag camps are just plain short sighted twits! They give knee-jerk answers to people asking honest questions about engine swaps. As a result you'll find that more than one "oddball" swap has visited our humble home here. Some have been invited, some have simply noted that we accept orphans that have been ostracized from other forums for daring to speak herasy (sp?) concerning an engine swap and wander in. I've seen several post tenatively testing the waters to see if they'll get flamed before jumping in, it's always a shame that people have to worry about acceptance. Frankly, I enjoy those visits just like I appreciate oddball swaps. V8 in a 914? in a 944? 911? Jag? Rotary in a Miata? Z? 510? Supra motor in an RX7? (hell YES!) In a Z? Rover motor in an MGB? (pics on my site) All good so far as I'm concerned. I only wish there was a forum as supportive as this one that could cater to all of those oddball orphans who get cast out by purists elsewhere. Unfortunatly there isn't but at least we can help out those who're interested in the Z and maybe lend assistance to those others where we can by virtue of our experience. We can also give them the confidence that they aren't crazy and shouldn't listen to the twits who have no vision and would bring them down. Yup, I love this forum more so than any other and I post to a pretty wide range as time permits. I think the attitudes we have here generally rock, it doesn't take long visits in most other forums to figure out that we've got something special here. WooHoo!

More than once I've bitched about the lack of grease supplied with the Energy kit and the price that Summit and others ask to get another tube. Well, tonight while rading a VERY entertaining thread in th eRX7 forum pointed out by a member here I ran across some grease reccomendations that may help us out This is by a guy, who's posted here BTW, who's done an LT1 swap into an FDRX7 - and also made custom nylon bushings for those cars. Here's what he posted concerning grease -> "part #1337K13, red lithium-complex, premium-grade grease withstands extreme pressures and high temperatures, -20 to +400F temp. range, $2.72 for a 14 oz. tube for use in a grease gun. part #10175K15, lithium-based marine grease, clings to surfaces and won't be washed away by water or salt spray, withstands hot, corrosive, marine conditions. Probably just fine for a car, then. Purple in color, comes in a 14 oz. tube, 0 to +320F temp. range, $2.18. part #10605K42, Dow Corning BR-2 multipurpose grease, fortified with a moly additive, reduces friction between metals in extreme pressure applications. For use on bearings, black in color, -20 to +265F temp. range, $5.53 for a 14.1 oz. tube. part #1339K2, vehicle-grade grease, premium-grade lithium-complex, absorbs severe shock loads and stress. Use for wheel bearings, automotive and truck chassis, and industrial applications like sleeve bearings, ball and roller anti-friction bearings. Red in color, -10 to +400F temp. range, $4.87 for a 1 lb. tub. I still haven't decided which one I'm going with, but all are more than suitable for this application. They also have an aluminum-complex thickened grease, (gray) with moly and graphite additives, made to handle heavy loads and constant shock in "hot, wet, and dirty environments." Part #1208K22, $4.09 for a 14 oz. tube." Not sure which of these might work for us or even if any of them are suitable but I figured I'd put it up for discussion

To reiterate what Jimzdat said and I pointed out earlier - USE RELAYS! Okay, I'll rant a little The lights are dim because they are not getting enough voltage. If you don't believe me measure the voltage at the lights and then at the battery, if they're dim chances are that the voltage will measure at least one to two volts lower at the bulbs. So, where did the voltage go? The resistance in the wires, the terminals at the fuze box, and the resistance in the switch. Ever seen an electric oven? How's that work? Well, a piece of wire with high resistance has a great deal of current passed through it and it gets RED hot . Hrm, sorta' sounds like your wiring harness with a set of high wattage bulbs doesn't it? High Watts means high amperage draw which means anything with high resistance will heat up - just like an electric overn! I had a BRAND NEW multifunction switch in my car when I bought it. The previous owner also had Hella H4s installed. First time I used the lights I melted part of the column cover and fried the contacts on the switch. When I opened up the column I found out why the previous owner replaced the multifunction stalk - he'd fried the previous one too judging from the remains of melted insulation! I cleaned the switch up, tried it again, and promptly damaged it again. This time I noticed that the fuses in the fuse box were HOT too! I had just seen a relay install article in a car mag dealing with older Chevelles that dealt with this exact problem. As a result I bought a headlight relay kit, rewired my lights, and wrote a tech article for this which is posted here. I since found that there's a small error in the article but for the most part it's accurate. The most accurate part of the article is the AMAZING difference in light I now get from my Hellas! Talk about night and day differences, it's way noticeable on my car. So, if you want to do the typical "more power" guy thing be my guest but be prepared for a meltdown. It might not occur right away, and it might be fine for awhile, but the Z lighting setup forces the current to travel through a LARGE part of the harness and the switch. Eventually something WILL fail - most likely in the dead of night in the middle of nowhere on a long trip. If you're lucky it will just shutdown your lights but it will most likely take something else with it ranging from your multifunction switchcolumn cover to your fusebox to your entire car. Don't anyone say they weren't warned, you'll see I've pounded the life out of this drum more than once if you do a little search. I'm trying to help you keep from trashing your car.... P.S. If a fuse blows do you just stick a bigger one in? I once saw a guy that did just that - he smoked half the harness in his Mustang. We found a screw through the back of the harness from a stereo install that was intermittantly blowing the fuse. He worked his way up to a HUGE fuse and we had to replace a pretty big chunk of melted wires afterwards.... Oh, and yeah I was once guilty of doing this myself but I didn't fry anything thank goodness.

Forgot? Nah, I just didn't recall seeing it posted anywhere It also seemed contrary to what I'd seen done with every other vehicle I've ever owned. I guess the Zs are just funky like that. I could swap them around I guess, the car will be down for the Winter just as soon as it gets ugly but right now it's been 70+ all day (and rainy) so... There's also a big race supposed to happen from the Supra forum out my way between a nasty RX7 and a C5 'vette (turbo'd) so I may take the Z out to watch or possibly the RX7. Can't decide (lol). As for EFI and a blower... I've gotten the Supra bug, that will slow me some I'm afraid. Finally a driver I can wrench on and not worry as much about breaking It'll also cost more than th eRX7 so that will hurt some. I AM pursuing EFI but it will be mid-January or so before I decide on an ECU. The guy who owes me a fuel pump may actually come through and I need to send off my intake still - perhaps this weekend. I hope to have EFI done this Winter but I think a blower will have to wait. I guess if the suspension were more comfortable I'd be more eager to lay in the power too. I will be the first to admit that I'm not used to the squat from the IRS - it freaks me some. Having snapped two Us hasn't helped my confidence much either! I'm working the CVs slowly but the Supra hunt has slowed me some I'll admit. Still haven't gotten that last stub out. Anyway, do you really think that 225 up front and 200 in back would feel that much better? Won't squat too much? Having never seen what it looks liek doing that I don't know exactly how bad it's squating (sigh). Nose really picks up too - especially when it hooks up in second! It's NEVER rubbed in the wheelwell yet so that's good. For struts I've got brand new Tokicos, less than 600miles on them! I guess it wouldn't take THAT long to swap them and see, shouldn't have to do anything but pull the wheels and the tops of the struts right - don't have to pull the lower pins and balljoints do I?