BLKMGK

Umm, this isn't a torque cnverter we're talking about. There's a solid connection in there somewhere that can have some slip. I'll admit I don't fully understand how it works but 48% is just plain crazy. For that matter 29% soounds like an awful lot. Where is this documented? What do 300ZX TTs dyno at compared to flywheel power? Figure another few percent for the trans and we're talking over 30% power loss? They weren't THAT slow were they? Maybe they were talking about one of those AWD diffs that shuttle power front to back depending upon slip?

Some ZX stuff has already been covered -> http://www.hybridz.org/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=search Not sure there are many pics but if you ask a few questions here about I'm sure the ZX folks will pipe up and that some have WEB sites. What all did you want to know about the swap?

Ford pattern worked fine on my car - 5lug all around. Front hubs are 300ZX though, only the rears were drilled...

LOL, I nearly went for that scoop myself - glad I didn't! Congrats!

Hrm, $3K to replace the chains? Yeah, that actually sounds possible believe it or not. Also, I thought Yamaha designed and manufactured the head but not the block? If you want to look at DOHC V8s I'd suggest the Cobra motor - lower deck height shoudl make it not quite as wide. Can get you some measurements if you would like - I think I've posted them before...

Yup, I've mentioned it once or twice without thinking - not smart The RX is pretty low and I was going to have it raised but unlike coilovers with threads these use some sort of clips and raising it is a PITA so I've left it alone (shrug). I hear ya' on tire retreads and manhole covers! Both of those scare me silly no matter which of MY cars I'm driving All of them are low enough that hitting one of those suckers would do nasty damage. I've known a couple of guys who have actually ripped rears out on those manhole things when repaving is being done - NOT cool!

FWIW Pete - I put a piston stop into my plug hole and wnet a full revolution without it hitting the piston Had it screwed all the way out too - ended up sending it back. Pretty weird...

Multispark is a function of the ignition box, not the coil. Are both of these oil filled coils or is one of them an E-core? If one is an E-core that's what I'd run - much hotter spark supposedly and it can "recharge" more quickly. Make sure you ignition box is compatible with whichever you use, some coils are simply too hot for some ignition boxes...

The earlier one can indeed be modified to run RWD with the Aerostar pieces, I've seen more than oone article on this years ago. Not sure about the other engine but as I recall older SHOs outran the newer V8s anyway Lookup the SHO Shop, I believe they were in Cali and would be a good resource for information. One thing to bear in mind about the SHO 6 though - maintenance. When those puppies undergo their 60K checkup it's pretty. The SHO Shop did a tech article on this in Super Ford years ago - it required special tools to do the work and they were NOT cheap tools. Before buying one of these high revving wonders I'd suggest you look into what it takes to keep one of these over the long haul. Maybe consider a DOHC Cobra motor instead?

I think there's pics on my site from when I did this on my Z. I bought a Dynamat "trunk kit" and was able to do the entire car with it! However remember that for this stuff to work you do NOT have to cover every square inche and I sure as heck didn't! I put squares wherever there were BIG panels. I used a bunch of them inside the doors, all over the floor, rear towers, firewall as best I could, and I'd have done the roof if I could have! Remember, you're just tyring to damp oscillation and while covering every inch is best it's not strictly required. On top of my deadening I also rolled out some of th echeap bubblewrap looking foil stuff form Home Depot - worked great! No hotspots on my floor or firewall Just make sure that any big panels get a good sized square at least - the doors in particular, mine rang like bells before. A cheap idea I wish I'd thought of was to use spray bedliner. This stuff sticks like mad, isn't super expensive IMO, and should deaden pretty well. I tried some of the spray Dynamat and found it to be crap - the can is at such high pressure it blows everywhere If you could find bed liner cheaply enough or undercoating that didn't stink like mad I think either would work well. Does anyone make a consumer sprayable bed liner in a can of some sort? Heck, I'd be willing to buy some just to cover still more area on my car, it sure couldn't hurt

Passenger weight makes a big difference too FWIW. My RX7 NEVER scrapes with just me in it, put a passenger in it and I have to be MUCH more careful around speed bumps and driveways. Weird but 150lbs or so makes a noticeable difference! The Z doesn't seem to mind nearly as much though

Interesting, my oil pressure falls some when I get into th eupper RPMs too. I THOUGHT it was because I'd removed the oil bypass feature to the filter. As a result I put in a System one filter hoping that the lowered restriction would keep the pressure higher - I was also worried about the OEM type filter exploding as it was leaking a bit around the seal (remote mount). Anyway, with the System 1 filter I still see some leakage around the seal and the pressure still falls but I believe it doesn't fall as much. I've considered porting the remote mount piece some but have yet to do it (I DID deburr the damned thing though!). At 5K+ I still see more than 40PSI when warm. I've pretty much just left it alone figuring it's getting enough. I didn't think the pump was a high volume unit - the gauge is a mechanical Autometer. I see as high as 80PSI+ when cold at lower RPM, 60PSI+ when warmed up and below about 5K. Actually it only falls under sustained WOT - I have to stare at the silly thing to see it and that's SCARY. Otherwise it hits a peak pressure and pretty much olds - it doesn't just keep climing way up. I DO have a big oil pan - something like 9 quarts (Moroso). I don't see 5K very often, 7K once in a blue moon How worried should I be? The lines to my remote mount are -6 but I suspect the remote mount could be ported a bit more. Was I chasing the right thing? Should I put in a bypass? I'm using the larger System1 "trashcan" looking filter with a stainless screen in it.

Hrm, I've been distracted lately and not gotten involved in this despite knowing it needs to be done badly. Would my wheel measurements help? I'm running odd ball stuff so it's not directly applicable to anyone else who's not running th esame (well, maybe the back) but if it's helpful I can share. Like Pete said, anything on my site including pics is free for the taking but please attribute it to my handle What other areas need work that I might be able to help with?

Sign me up if anyone creates a kit for this A nice brute strength vicous diff would be nice. However we've still got stub axles to worry about guys - what can we do to upgrade these over the 280Z stuff?

Hrm, I dunno'. Copper can work harden can't it? Vibration on a stiffly mounted piece of copper like that could be trouble. Heavier piping like gas pipe might be okay but water pipe for sure would be bad - glad you've ruled that out. Even the aluminum stuff would make me nervous for EFI use to be honest. I've always used braided line and adel clamps with AN fittings but it's a bit expensive for all those fittings...

Umm, check the ratio on that RX7 rear before you get too excited. It's likely to be pretty high since the RX7 have so little torque. Don't be surprised if it's a 4.11:1 or thereabouts. Might be nice in an L6 with OD but for a V8 it's a big no go. I'd say go R230 but the halfshafts etc. still need to be figured out....

Heh, I started to type up something similiar but I wasn't sure how the 280 compared to the 240 I did this Ron using Mike's parts. It really wasn't that hard to do - no special non-OEM parts other than the spacer.

Okay, so how hard is it to get a SBC Z into the low 11s? I dunno what mine runs but I'll bet it's low 12s right now not running quite right (assuming shafts hold!), 11s should be no biggie and there's nothing super special about how mine is put together.... I don't think we need 600hp monsters to get the job done guys

A Viper? Is that all you're worried about? Is it stock? Kripes, throw a nitrous kit on the car with about a 100shot. I'd expect most any decently built V8 would toast him once traction was gotten. I honestly don't think Vipers are anything to be too afraid of and if you had a blower sticking out of the hood why the hell would he be stupid enough to race you? What's a Viper weigh? If it's not stock it could have some decent power (some around here are pushing 500 horse) but I'd still expect it to weigh more. 300horse motor, 100horse shot, some drag radials - might be an interesting race Who's seen stockish Vipers go down the track?

I've got a Howe radiator - working fine. Check my site for some pics of it. Can whip up some measurements if you'd like. If you're finding the Griffin nearly as cheap it's as good but I never found them that cheap. The Howe has nice flat tanks that are easy to polish up though

Don't know if my cam compares Pete but my Vic pulls all the way down to about 1K or 1500 no problem - heck my car IDLES at 1K! No bucking as I ease into it in 6th when it's down low like that too. A shame you aren't closer by, I'd show ya'!

Hrm, so I could maybe use the spacer that's already on the car then? Would the spacer iself say what it was? I've never noted any markings on the housings - the 280 or the 240 ones Where is th emarking?

FWIW - Holley is going to be coming out with a Tunnel EFI intake soon. It was shown at SEMA this year but I've not yet seen pics Grump did Doug ever get pics to you? Going to have to get out to SEMA one of these days, sounds like a blast! I'm running a Vctor Jr myself and will be converting it to EFI. Low airflow at idle leads to wall wetting in a carb app supposedly but with EFI it's no biggie. I do see a fuel stain under my carb but it seems to run well off idle. Left a few feet of rubber just the oher day after shortshifting 2nd, these cars are light enough that they don't need massive low end torque....

Actually there was some swelling involved, missed the damned wooden block and smacked my hand at least once The stubs I'm goingto try and use are 280 tubs. I figure if I'm going to the effort of swapping to stronger axles I might as well upgrade the stubs too I don't have a slide hammer either so I'm not yet sure how to remove that one stub, I may try to press it out at my friend's shop if he'll let me but I'm honestly not sure it'll be terribly easy to setup. As for my threads... I actually cut of the peening on on of the nuts completely. That nut came off with ZERO distortion, it looks really good! he first stub however I ended up drilling down the side and splitting, some of that drilling hit the threads and one single hread was slightly distorted. I've run the remaining good nut up and down those threads, no problems. I too was concerned about seizure but it looks like I dodged that bullet this time around. I appreciate the heads up! Lastly, the adapters. First and foremost I'm finding NO fault with the adaper!!!! The stub flange is what I suspect isn't real consistant, it looks cast. I'd need MAYBE an 1/8th inch of grinding on each side, probably less, to get it in. It's REAL close with the problem being the width of the short sides. That is to say the "width" standing it up so it's tallest is a bit much. As I mentioned, I can grind this but if it's off a C hair will it matter? I just don't want to introduce any runout is all and if I start filing and grinding I might. Will be discussing this at lunch with a friend who has access to machgine tools to see if he's willing to measure and cener everything up for me. Not faluting the adapter at all, just tyring to get it as close to perfect as I can while I've got it all apart. Well, mostly apart Hrm, hope I don't have this much trouble with the stubs on the car when I swap them! What bearings will I be using for that? 280? I seem to recall something about a machined spacer for specific bearings or was that for the R200? Can I simply order up 280Z bearings and seals or is there special precautions that should be taken here? Not in a big rush to be honest, have to drill these stubs and will probably do an E-rake from SCCA/Mike when I finally pull the darned car apart sometime this Winter

Turbo 240 Would seem that a member of the GN crowd has discovered the 240SX, no? The truly sad thing, IMO, is that they're only just now seeming to realize what a market there is for PnP ECUs. I know of several merkets, which I mentioned extensively in my response to him , that are DYING for an ECU! My RX7 sure could use one, Scottie's talking about hopping up a Miata, the 240SX the guy just turbocharged... Hell even the Mustang guys could use this! Anyway, that thread is pretty interesting, they got that SX to fly! If the AEM ECU doesn't come out darn near perfect and REALLY easy to program for "race" apps I'm going to be pretty hard pressed NOT to choose FAST. The DFI is a contender too but the FAST system has some pretty nice online suport that I cannot find anywhere for the DFIGEN7 ECU. If someone spots someplace where the GEN7 is being actively supported or even talked about PLEASE point it out to me. P.S. I'm dying to see what the AEM "race" ECU's pricing is too. We may even see a price war!