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Another option is to simply convert to 5lug and run the more modern wheels with no adapters as I've done. I think you'll also find that som folks have no issues with adapters on moderatly powered vehicles. I personally don't trust them but others have had good success, use them often, and would argue that they're safe (shrug).

Wow, thank you for the link! I'll try to spend some time hunting around in there - don't suppose the other systems I'm pondering hve been discussed? I'd KILL to find an objective tuner with hands-on experience with the GEN7! I'm loving it's feature set but it's software compared to FAST leaves me a little cold. The AEM system sounds REALLY awesome but speaking to a guy who attended SEMA he said it looked like it was geared more for specific PnP apps than a standalone unit We'll see, a shame about the TECIII tho' although mid January sounds like a possibility for that unit. Maybe

Wow, I think you'd turn the Z into a pretzel My car is only making 300RWHP last it dynoed but stepping deep into it in 2nd the other day I was doing 50+ in a 25mph zone no problem at all. I think you'd simply smoke the tires with all the power Monte has. Vette's weight more than Zs but he's got plenty of oats there and probably some big brass ones too. Thanks for sharing Monte, much appreciated! Very nice WEB site too...

Found some more information on the AEW box, one of their techs has been answering questios in the Supra forum 20+ pages of responses! I gave my thoughts and some dork who's in love with the APEXi jumped me http://www.supraforums.com/supravb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=10402&perpage=15&page number=1 I also found some token information on the TECIII. We'll see but it sounds like Electromotive has BIG plans for the new unit. Wow, when it rains it pours - lot's of potential options out there http://www.rx7club.com/vforums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=30583 P.S. IF you take the time to read that 20page Supra post please not the sidebar on traction control. WAY cool! Damn I want a Supra TT but if this box or the Electromotive is PnP for the RX7 I'll probably grab one

You talking about the EPIC? It's actually capable of running standalone if wired correctly but yes, it's not like they've tried hard to advertise it. Having said that, Jimmy LaRocca apparently really likes them and a friend has one on his yet to be started blown DOHC Cobra I'm dying to see that thing run, it's expected to make like 700RWHP and is built solid. A shame that the EPIC seems to be locked in time and not progressing or being promoted. There IS supposed to be a forum dedicated to it though but I've never read in on it. As for the EEC-Tuner, I was wrong about it being new. It's been aorund awhile and I even looked into it awhile back. To tune on that thing you've got to really know your stuff IMO. They have a plug-in module on the service port that will override the stock calibration info. You then modify the tables and download to the module. Software for it is less than wonderful IMO - the data is pretty raw to the user. Some URLs of interest for the EEC guys who still might be interested in it -> http://www.iwantperformance.net/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi http://groups.yahoo.com/group/EECTuner http://www.pcmx.net/pcmx/ Heh, yeah I'm researching this for my Mustang. The price is DIRT cheap but the lack of abstraction from the data is a bit of a turn off for me. I'd like things to be a little more user friendly like the FAST and GEN7 software - it's not quite like HEX math but it's pretty close even with the added on PCMX software ($149). I'll get my Mustang running with the ECU and chip in it now and then maybe consider this stuff. (shrug) P.S. Had the AEM software seg fault on me It, like th eEEC stuff, may be a little too close to the data for people to use who don't live and breathe tuning. IF I were workingi n a shop doing nothing but tuning perhaps it would be more attractive. Alas, the chances of my getting a job doing that with my current level of knowledge is close to nil not to mention I make more doing what I do now anyway. At least this stuff is progressing, years ago I could barely find ANY information on EFI systems! Long live the 'net!

Ya. this puppy is looking WAY complicated. No sign of the "wizard" that lets you choose make and model of car either. I'm ASSuming that in a PnP application they would already have many of these tables filled out based upon their own research. Overall I'm finding the software top be pretty damned unfriendly and there was NO help file included. It looks like this sucker just hatched and that this is rev 1.0 of the software! What's attractive is that this software can 10cylinder engines (I know some Viper guys), can control boost, can handle 2 O2s like many OEMs do, and can have a ton of inputsoutputs. However as good as that all sounds this sucker is going to be tough to use. Ever talked to someone with a Motec? Lot's of those guys don't use piles of the features simply because figuring them out is hard and it makes little to no difference in how the car performs in the real world Since we're talking new EFI systems - the Ford world has FINALLY!!!!!! got a PnP EFI system for the stock ECU. I know about the SpeedBrain but it was apparently mostly stillborn from the dealers I've talked to. Seems support was non-existant. Anyway, this new EFI system is in the brandy new MM&FF mag that just landed in subscribers mailboxes. I've read the article but NOT yet done anything more. Best of all it's cost is UNDER $400 bux! Those of you running EEC EFI might want to consider this Also, it's possible to put EEC sensors on a Chevy so.... Doubt it runs wideband though (sigh). Will try to track it down ASAP. Lastly, spotted a PnP box for Subaru's too! Can you say WRX?! WOW, that would be awesome IMO. Makes the WRX just that much more attractive in my view. Roomy, AWD, turbo, programmable EFI Lot's of changes inthe EFI world guys. Hondata for Hondas, Fords covered, several systems for Chevys including modifyng the stock ECU, Subaru and on and on. Awesome! Will post URLs as I find them. P.S. Ford box is called the EEC-Tuner. Friend of mine pointed out this forum -> http://www2.turboford.org/cgi-bin/tfubb/forumdisplay. cgi?action=topics&forum=EEC+Tuner&number=3&DaysPrune=1000&LastLogin= as being a good place to learn about it. It DOES work on all EECs but probably not the Vs.(OBDII) Whoops, I was wrong - looks liek it CAN do EEC-V! http://www.eec-tuner.com/software_list.htm

Not sure if this one is JUST out or if perhaps it's been out and I've not heard anything about it. Anyway, it's got Windows based software and many of the features that other systems have. The interesting points I've noted just breezing over the specs are dual O2 sensors, WideBand capability, and user programmable inputs That last one ocul dbe REAL sweet if for instance you wanted to log vehicle speed using a speed sensor. Slap a sensor on the front wheel too, check the differences, and you've got wheelspindriveline slip too! Anyway, hwere's where it's at and yes there's demo software available! http://www.aempower.com/ems.htm# These guys are big in the compact crowd, let's hope this unit isn't vapor. Competition is good for everyone IMO... More info - for those of you who were considering electronicly controlled TRANSMISSIONS this puppy might be for you! Outputs 10 Injector outputs 5 Ignition outputs 1 Fuel pump output 4 +12v User defined drivers (VTEC, EGR, etc) outputs 2 O2 Heater ground controls 2 Temperature controlled outputs (radiator fan etc.) 6 user defined (-) switched outputs (NOS, a/c, purge, etc..) 1 Check engine / shift light 1 Tachometer output 2 PWM outputs (may also be run as switched outputs) boost control, IAC motor, staged nitrous, etc) 2 Stepper motor drives (may also drive 4 wire antagonistic pair outputs) Inputs 2 Knock channels with control 2 O2 channels with control 4 Thermo couple inputs 6 Gear position inputs 5 Speed sensor inputs 1 Spare temperature input Throttle position Manifold pressure / Mass air input Barometric pressure sensor 2 Spare 0-5v input (pressure sensor, or position sensor) Coolant sensor Air inlet temperature Battery voltage sensing Clutch or neutral input (may be used for 2-step rev control) Crank position (timed) Cam position (timed) Extra TDC or air flow (Vortex) input Speed sensor input (for gear selection, traction control, etc) Filtered sensor ground Memory 1 Megabyte internal logging memory Flash ROM Fault logging Communication RS-232 pc com link CAN high speed bus High read write duty

Watched the local F-Body club run on my friend's dyno today. I didn't get to see all of them run but I saw enough LS1 to get a pretty good idea of how they run and an LT1 too. Most of the stockish LS1 were getting just over 300RWHP, the ones with a few more mods like headers got as high as 320RWHP or thereabouts. The little air cleaner lid they can get is worth a solid 5RWHP which was pretty cool IMO. One of the more modified units before I got there made something like 360RWHP I believe - not sure of mods. The single LT1 car made like 265RWHP which is supposedly normal. The one nitrous car I saw run had a 100HP jet but only 700PSI of bottle pressure, over 1KPSI is optimal. It picked up 136RWHP over it's N/A runs I think and a ton of torque. It made like 440+HP and a TON of torque. Numbers might be a bit off but that's probably close Kind of interesting that these guys were so excited over the HP numbers. From a mostly stock car that's pretty good I guess but the brand new BONE STOCK Lightning dyno'ed not long ago made like 360RWHP and something like 425+lbs. Okay, it weighs 4Klbs but what's the F-body weigh these days? Granted my car made 300RWP too but I know that's wrong (lol). Thankfully my car weighs alot less but I guess I do feel like I really need to figure out my power issues, hope the EFI conversion allows me to see full power. A shame none of these guys had a blower but the nitrous car was REAL impressive. Barely moved around on the dyno when the juice was hit but it sure performed well. That was only a 100HP hit too Hooking that torque would sure be touhg I'd think. Ah well, thought some of us might be interested in the power levels seen. Headers, intake mods, and other little things were incremental power adders. The air lid seemed to be a pretty good idea for the F-body guys - hardly any labor for a decent HP increase at the wheels. (shrug) Oh, and LS1 noticably stronger than the LT1 (duh).

As it turns out the OEM computer isn't going to work out - duplicating the Optispark signal is too expensivedifficult and in th eend it was too costly. I'll be using the FAST or DFI GEN7 instead but I've not decided which. It won't be cheap but it will have WideBand O2 which makes tuning a snap. As for the carb intake - first I will NOT be using TBI - it will be converted ot multiport injection. The reason why this is preferable is that those niced tuned runners on the OEM intake are built for TORQUE not horsepower. They tend to run out of air at upper RPMs and larger cube engines make this worse. In the SBC world intakes are way too expensive too IMO, the TPIS MiniRam is pretty cool but it's over a grand Even the Mustang guys looking for high power wind up with box intakes or Spyders - the stock style stuff just doesn't do it. I've got a spare Victor Jr. hanging around that I can get converted fairly cheaply, I'll use a Ford throttle body (used $100). That's WAY cheaper than the $500 carb styles or $300+ TPI types Heh, I've already got pump, filter, and regulator on the way and I'm talking to someone about a TB. Just have to figure out the ECU....

Hmmm ceeenttterr cooonnnnsoole! Yeah, that would be WAY cool I'm not big on replacement parts like a hatch honestly. Weight savings would be low I'd think. Start small like the flat pieces behind the doors that I mentioned and then work up to door panels, dash covers, and consoles. Lot's of folks clammoring for CF parts....

I've got Mike's coil overs on my car too. Install wasn't too bad. Cut off and grind down the stock perches, measure the distance for the new perch, weld a thick piece of metal to support the threaded tube (scrap), then slip threaded tube overonto the new perchch, slip spring over tube, bolt on upper spring mount. A urethane bumper in there isn't a bad idea. While I was at it I stripped the strut, primed it, and painted it. Wasn't too bad but weld under the strap not above it else you might create a wedge that would split the threaded tube. Hardest part was the welding which I had someone else do (thanks Mike!). Might be some pics up on my site if you look, I don't recall. No shaving of the tube required. 280 and 240 strut tubes are different sizes I believe so perhaps you were given the wrong set? (heh, dying to use that!)

We chatted some last night about this. axles were being quoted at $110 each, CVs were $76 each at the dealer, and adapters like Ross is working on but for the 230 hadn't been specced out. Not including the diff we were over $500 pretty quick Don't forget front mount costfabrication too. Diffs can be gotten for less than $300 and are a viscous LSD which is cool IMO. Ratios were 3.54 or 4 series I believe. Not sure which I'd want for my car but if I stumble across one I'll grab it for the right price. Hopefully CVs on my car will fix the breakage but if a group buy is put together for the custom parts needed to do this I'm all for it and would contribute. We'll see, Tim's still working this all out for himself so perhaps when done a few of us can follow his lead

Second manifold is an SVO piece I believe. It would have a Ford number but never have been used on a production vehicle.

Hrm, never thought to look for seats on E-Bay. Bet you could find some pretty sweet ones if you looked hard enough...

I wouldn't mind an R230 front bracket, sign me up and send me a price Lemme' know if you find cheaper prices on those CVs and if you decide to try to get a group buy on the axles andor stub adapters for the R230. I honestly hope that I don't ever require an R230 but I'd switch if it could be put together as a bolt-in. Heck, my LSD R200 and CVs would probably sell high enough on ZCar that it wouldn't be too painful

Heh, got the stainless, need the shear! Looks good, did you polish it much or leave it pretty much as is? I've polished a few pieces of stainless used for shields in the past - you REALLY have to lean on it to get it going but when you're done it looks like a mirror Stainless is really nice, you did a good job!

He had problems with his first ATI blower, upgraded to a newer one, and as far as I know the blower worked fine. From what I've seen ATI stands behind their products pretty well but if you runa motor lean the results are your own fault. The shop I deal with has seen a few seals go on some of the ATI blowers but ATI is taking care of them with repairs etc. - no engine damage incurred. I'm considering some form of forced induction myself, not because I need the power just because it would be fun to play with I think most folks will find 300+RWHP plenty to play with, at least at first. I'm not sure building a monster out of the gate is really the best way to go. Build something quick and then work your way up - you'll still probably break plenty of parts EFI is next on my list but I'm watching for parts for the future too....

Hrm, now I want to run out and figure out what my heads flow! This is neat stuff, thanks for the education

Whew, where to start! MotorCam specs posted here somewhere. Cam isn't super high lift (under .500) but the lobe centers are a bit wide if memory serves - hydraulic flat tappet. Vac at idle is less than 15 at 1K I think. Victor Jr single plane, Edelbrock RPM heads. I've got a white spring in there now, no noticable bog ANYWHERE nor do I hear the secondaries opening - on my first Mustang the secondaries were VERY loud, not this car. If I hold the throttle open and move the vac can's arm it swings through it's full throw without hitting anything. When I pulled the can off to check things and pressed against the spring then covered the hole it held until I let off, no leaks. Carb gunk sprayed through the passage came out fine on both primary and secondary sides. Engine has seen 7K no problem, still pulling hard. Only vac connections were to the PCV using the correct connection. No vac to the distributor right now. (shrug) If the secondaries ARE opening they're darned smooth. Putting a wire tie lightly on the vac arm and looking after a hard run shows no movement down the arm and thus I believe no movement of the arm....

Suggest you read here -> http://forums.chevytalk.com/cgi-bin/ubbcgi/forumdisplay.cgi?action=topics&forum=EFI/Fuel+Injection+and+Engine+Control+Systems&number=12 Free and those guys have done lot's with TPI setups...

Heh, do a search. I think you'll find a couple of threads FILLED with requests for various parts. If you can make them you'll have folks standing in line. I myself would like a coupe of pieces done and if you're interested in making some 240Z pieces sign me up. I mostly want simple stuff too like the flat pieces behind the seat on the sides that are normally covered in vinyl. I'd also like door panels (much harder) and some sort of panel to cover the area where the heater panel is except I'd want it blank since I hope to run Vintage Air down the road. (shrug) A dash cap would be cool too but pretty darned difficult to mold....

You burning any oil? Is it possible the O2 is being fooled? How many lbs of boost? Seems to me that even full rich if the boost is too high or octane too low you might get detonation. Not sure that flooding it with a firehose will stop it Did it always do this or have you raised the boostchanged the ignition curve?

'Course you know I recognized that stuff at HD after having ordered a can from Eastwood right?

Cool, seems someone is going to send me the Commander software to check out. Most cool! Will let folks know what I see... Coming down now, thanks - you know who you are

What will it cost to rebuild them? How does that cost compare to buying new or rebuilt ones? What's the core charge? Before I bought them I'd be darned sure that the rebuild cost was going to be worth it. You going to use them for mockups first maybe? Will they flow enough air? Scottie and I talked a bit about a single GN style turbo, $600 or so isn't so bad. It would certainly flow enough air and it's cost new might be less than a rebuild on the two smaller ones. P.S. If you're doing what it sounds like you're doing I'd be interested in how you build the headers.