BLKMGK

Hrm, very interesting Grumpy. I've always known that peak HP numbers like peak flow numbers didn't mean nearly as much as "area under the curve". Honestly and IMHO I think one of the reasons I've always found forced induction so attractive is that the motor is no longer having to struggle quite so hard to draw air past every intake restriction. Valve flow still matters but the pressure in the intake would seem to me to make much of the restrictions less important than the valve's flow. Hard to explain what I'm trying to say but it seems to me that air blown versus drawn would certainly seem to flow more easily past restrictions ahead of the valve. Forced induction seems to make greater sense to me as opposed to having to increase RPM to gain power. Nitrous is also attractive for those reasons, sprayed into the port it bypasses all or most of the restrictions and brings along it's own oxygen Valve flow ends up being most of the choke point vs the rest of the intake path. In a liquid form it would seem to be sort of condensed - liquid HP so to speak. I've never liked nitrous as much as compressed air though - too greedy if it can't find the fuel it wants. Starts to eat things like aluminum Anyway, I've always liked a milder motor with forced induction over a motor with a wild cam, lumpy idle, and higher rev requirements to get the job done. Heh, I think I just described the Buick GN as having the perfect motor Low revs, high boost, high HP...

Heh, cool - a promotion! Thanks

Woot! Terrific, thanks!

You started it? Damn, I missed that - it sounds good? No resonance? Hrm, that might have been a better solution for me. Oh well, the Sebring looks SWEET but it's a touch loud under 2K RPM in the car. I figure a couple of bullets will fix my resonance. Any chance you could make a recording for us to hear? If you send me a WAV I can MP3 it and put it up. Would love to hear it - mine backraps a little too - do you get any of that?

Careful - this isn't "full" trans control like line pressure and shift points, this is just lockup like say for a 700R4. Since I'm running a manual trans I'm wondering what sorts of thngs I might be able to use that output other than a transmission

Liquid stuff is being sold at Home Depot in he hand tool dept I think. It's used to coat tool handles and yo may also find it in th eelectrical area. Doesn't have to be mail ordered

FWIW, when I put my new headers on the car I'll probably dyno it again so we'll have a back to back on th etwo sets of headers. Not long tubes mind you but it will still be interesting. Of course if I've managed to solve my secondary "issue", if indeed that's really the problem, then the comparison won't be terribly fair. We'll see and I'll post results when I know more.

Solder the connections and use the heatshrink. IF you look hard you can ind both butt connectors and heatshrink that has a sort of glue or epoxy inside. IF you can find this, and I've not ever had good luck, you'll find that the goop oozes and makes the seal waterproof when you heat it up. Yup, even the butt connector gets the heatgun in this case The GM connectors that were supplied with my T56 pigtails had this stuff in the butt connectors - awesome stuff! Anyone know where to find heatshrink and crimp connectors with this protection? Cheaply?

Those checker stripes were BAD!!!!!! I've seen ghost flames on several cars here locally, WAY cool IMO.

Careful - some women like to use the polish remover that has lemon oil and other nasty but interestig smelling compunds in it. If you use these it will leave an oily residue. Best to buy the really cheap but plain stuff. Not that I'd know. Really Melts plexiglass for use as a "glue" too....

^%$%&^$#!! All that looking and I never found the darned things!!! I too have noted the engine movement with the stock GM mounts, I have no doubt that urethane would be stiffer. Drat!

Do a search for "ghost flames" I'll bet you find something I believe that the ghost effects are done in the clearcoat not in the base. Paint it "normal", clear it, paint the light ghosting by mixing something into the clear and masking what you want to show up, then clear over it. I THINK that's how it's done...

It's about 6meg in size and shows off some of the stuff I've been interested in. I won't go into details here as I'm STILL working on the EFI doc I promised but some of the things the DFI GEN7 can do are pretty promising! It will estimate mass air, estimate intake air temp at the port, and allow you to REALLY configure it for various sensor ranges - way cool. Unfortunatly it will only log 6channels at once which I believe is less than the competing FAST system. Where the GEN7 REALLY shines compared to the FAST is the malf functions. Go past 100% injector duty cycle, it sets an error code. O2 voltage goes whacky, it sets a malf and goes into a mode that ignores the O2. There's a whole list of errors it can detect along with steps it will take for many of them to prevent engine damage, so far I've seen NONE of this with the FAST system. Hrm, found something interesting for those of you with OD auto transmissions. This puppy will do all sorts of interesting things to lockup the converter (or not). Pretty sweet, wonder what else that output could be used for? More as I learn it but I thought this might be of interest to some of us. This EFI doc is going to be looong P.S. Will host the FAST and DFI software when I'm done. Won't be tonight and may be a few days, I've got a long list of site updates I really need to make (sigh).

On the Impallas the cutover to OBDII ws 96, was it different on the 'Vettes? If not then that should be an OBDI computer that you can use LT1-Edit on Hrm, maybe slide the engine forward a touch?

Actually, no. I put in a lighter spring, tinkered a little, and then pretty much gave up. I hate carbs and my conclusion is that I may have too big a carb and that my vac signal is too low to activate them. I'm not sure about that mind you since I'm pretty ignorant about carbs but I feel pretty certain they aren't opening and that this is why my power is where it was on the dyno. I only installed a carb so that I could debug the drivetrain and I think that's gone well - no weirdo vibes or anything. I wanted EFI from the start and am now working towards that goal now. 300RWHP is plenty right now, I'm breaking parts just fine Why, you having problems too?

Cool, thanks for the input Scottie - sort of what I figured. Airflow is airflow Just not sure I really have a "need" for that much power. Shortblock WILL take it and my compression is low enough that I could run a few lbs of boost no sweat. But how much is too much? I'm breaking rear parts now and expect to fix that but a turbo motor would make serious torque! I've also just now gotten a set of headers that should be much better, don't want to trash all that effort so soon. Perhaps keep one, loop it under the motor, and then have a custom side for the turbo mount. Like a GN We'll see, I'm thinking that a short message to Rewarder might be of benefit. Are many folks very interested in a single turbo setup?

I've been looking around a bit at what supercharger head units cost figuring I'd find one and eventually have a blown car. However while researching EFI options I stumbled into the turbo area on a GN site. Turbos to support nearly 600HP are actually pretty reasonable! As in $600 range which flat out spanks what I'm finding supercharger head units for... check out -> http://www.precisionte.com in the Buick section and see what I mean. In the end the added costs of exhaust plumbing, intercooler, and maybe a wastegate might add up to be more than a supecharger with custom mountsintercooler but it probably would be somewhat close. The turbo ends up being more flexible too.... I THINK Rewarder has a blurb on their site about turbo manifolds, I'm going to have to look more closely at it I think A single turbo ought to be plenty and sure would be neat to play with. I know this has come up before but I've always thought it would have to be really kludged or really expensive. If we can find someone making manifolds this might actually be somewhat reasonable! I had thought big power turbos to be close to a grand apiece or much more and maybe the really big ones are but.... Scottie, any reason why these turbos in a GN style setup wouldn't work? Airflow is airflow and if it makes 500HP on a GN shouldn't it support that much on something else?

You're right Mike, I'd forgotten that I had to buy boltsnuts for the mounts I'd purchased. Still, I was told that replacement mounts weren't available - pretty sure the year was 72. I distinctly recall that the year they give is a "cutoff year" where most listings stop at the year before for replacements. If other years will work terrific, I'd love to hear it because I REALLY wanted urethane mounts when I did my swap....

Which Energy mounts are you guys getting? JTR specs a 72 Pickup as being the "correct" mount but calls to Summit and elsewhere yielded negative answers! Those mounts have a stud sticking out - what mounts have you got?! Hell, I een posted here about my frustration in finding poly mounts for the motor and no one had any answers. You sure those mounts will work? What part number is it? New part or have they had this? What's the application it's made for?

Umm, NO you cannot get the motor mounts from Energy for this - as I said above. Call them and tell them you want them from a truck, give them the year, listen to the pause, and then they will tell you. I checked with SummitJeg's and I looked all over the Energy site. I sent them E-mail about it too and never got a repsonse If someone has figured out a way to use the Energy mounts and has used them I'd like to hear about it and see pics becasue they told me they weren't being made for the year we need for trucks.

Check out th eSebring stainless mufflers. Mine is polished and looks GREAT. However it's a bit loud, I expect to add two bullets to fix that Pics on my site...

Hrm, I bought the GM motor mounts, nowhere near $60+ apiece! For the trans mount I bought one of the urethane ones, they didn't make motor mounts So far I've not ripped one which is what I have been told will happen with the cheaper ones....

Heh, now find me one that works with a twin turbo sequential system on the RX7

Yup, the T56 requires the funky flywheel. 2piece seal means Centerforce flywheel. $250 is what I paid for mine *squeeel* It IS SFI rated though which could save your feet, a shame the clutch isn't SFI too

Noooo, I spotted it first Have to measure and see if it could possibly fit though. They flow okay?