BLKMGK

Pete, I thik if you search you might find pics linked here somewhere already. I know I was sent some pics awhile back and I thought I'd hosted them for a link here. I'll look at home if you can't find them. If these loops aren't the same ones I posted then I too would like to see pics After snapping a joint myself I can tell you it's pretty scary! One flying piece barely nicked my cell (shiver). Thankfully nothing else suffered except my powdecoating....

Go coilovers. I did using th eones MikeSCCA sells and wow, I love them. More room for tires plus I can change ride height in just a few minutes. Springs are harder to change but suspect I'll be swapping them around some too here soon I'm running 225lbs up front and 200lbs in back. I believe the rear should be stiffer as hopping on the gas gives MAJOR squat I'm considering 250 for the rear - it rides pretty good now I think but with a T56 it's likely a little heavy. Hope that helps!

Did miss something? Where did this come from? I dunno' what the original question was bu putting 327 pistons in a 350 would presumably go with a shorter stroke moor. Why do that? Umm, lot's more RPM potential comes to mind. Sometimes a broader more useful RPM range has benefits. For instance - you dyno a 350 at 700HP a 327 at 600HP. Take them to the track and the 327 spanks the 350. Why? Because maybe the 327 made more power under the broader curve than the 350 made in it's shorter curve. Yeah, that's a quicky example leaving lot's of potential things out but you get the idea. If someone sugested a shorter stroke setup this might be the sort of thing they had in mind.... Threads here wander, people throw out whacky ideas trying to be helpful. If that makes you angry then perhaps you don't understand that they're trying to help. You get what you pay for and if someone trying to be helpful isn't what you want to hear then perhaps paying the local machine shop to answer the question or someone like Lingenfelter would yield more accurate results?

Heh, Scarab needs no "kit". Pull the L6, slot the stock horns on the crossmember, slip in th eV8 using mounts with the studs sticking out and slide the motor back. I THINK it's as easy as that. You might need some spacers, in fact I'd thik you would, but it's not much harder than that I believe. Can a Scarab owner speak up and let us know? It's supposed to be pretty easy...

Trouble is you can't just use "any" rail - it must be machined for the intake you're using I've briefly pondered a carb as an air door but it must be modded for a TPS Ford TBs are somewhat cheap though and it's possible to adapt one of them usually if you use a carb type intake. (shrug) Spoke to one of the guys at the local shop today about the Optispark thing (woman's car back in the shop fr a miss again BTW). The guy I spoke to was different than the last night and not as sure about this stuff. He felt that "sure" it COULD be adapted but I'm going to try and double check with the other guy when he's in. (sigh) Prices for this are adding up..: Intake (TPIS) - $1K+ TB - $TBD Pump - $250? Hopefully less Filter - $60 Linefittings - $50 maybe as I've got spare stuff. Injectors - $? Can probably do with Ford 30lb ones ECU - $250 supposedly, haven't found a price. 94-95 LT1 GM PCMECU Harness - as much as $600 MAF - $250 or so Other sensors unknown but figure MAT, water temp, TPS?, O2, knock sensor, and external knock module at least. We'll see, Mike you listening? This might be a path for you too. Can provide POC and # if you'd like... P.S. Found this tonight -> http://www.ccsmotorsport.com/fi_parts.htm [ October 23, 2001: Message edited by: BLKMGK ]

Funny thing is that Scottie HAS been posting pics and pogress in other threads - just not this particular one

He's got the older analog system now - he wants to run that first, then goto port injection. He actually talked to Holley about it and they said that such an upgrade wouldn't work and that it would be two diferent ECUs. I'm not sure if that means the Commander 950 w/TBI couldn't be upgraded to a port type or not. If he writes me or posts here I'll be sure and ask. Personally the TBI stuff doesn't interest me. I'm seriously considering Mike's idea of using the Holley intake and selling both of my Victors Summit has it listed on backorder and I don't know what the rails cost of what they look like etc..

Heh, that's almost funny - if he's been reading here much he'd know that we're a helpful bunch. What a jerk! I've met Scottie, spent time in his home as a matter of fact. He's got a FAMILY, a full time J O B and a new home to take care of. Wow, he's even taken time off to have house guests and BTW his job forces him to TRAVEL too. Gosh, he's not been spending as much time on his project as you'd like. Well fine - I nominate Steelman to finish the project for us. Go get a rear and go to it, be my guest. Document it all of course. Anyone second the motion? Scottie - you're a good guy and I for one know the score as do the rest of us who are your friends here. Ignore the ungrateful jerk and please let us know how it's going when you've actually had time to work on it. No one else has documented this and we've heard lot's of people claim to know folks hwo have done it. So far as I'm concerned you're helping us all out a great deal and I truly appreciate the work you've put into it thus far. Thank you for your help, your guidance, and for the assistance you lend others here. I for one appreciate it a great deal!

Dunno, open it up. It's a one way valve near as I can tell - spring loaded plunger. Fairly stiff spring too. As pressure in the line drops the plunger looked like it would seal up the line running to the back. How's a prop valve differ? This one looked like it would retain some pressure to the rear upon loss of pressure lifting the spring.... (shrug)

IMO - put one in! New drivers almost always have accidents, hence the insurance. If you've restored this car (shiver) then you've probably seen the side impact protection, right? I did, and promptly installed a bar with solid side bars! There's little to no protection.... IF you do this ensure that the bar is padded and that he ALWAYS wears his belt(s). Without them he's worse off then if he had a bar in an accident IMO....

Hrm, I too need a pump. How much is "full value"? Looking for something easy to adapt, can support 450 or so, and is rail mount. I can get billet units for $250 or so but those puppies are loud!

Pics please - and of th eother cars too if possible! Would love to check it all out

Ouch, that's expensive. Hunt aorund here for th ename of th eAussie auto site that's so good (yeah, forgot again). It's got very detailed stuff on how to build a VERY nice unit yourself using industrial valves that I believe would be superior to most of what you can buy. If I have time I'll try to hunt it up but IMO it's worth looking into - was liek a 4part series with various mods making it better at each step!

Holy smokes, $191 is ROBBERY! The extruded rails aren't all that expensive bare and the machining can't be that much! I can get a carb intake converted for less I'm pretty sure and that manifold begins to rival the TPIS in price when you think about TB cost. I've YET to find a TBair door for a carb intake that's reasonably priced - Mike did indeed get a steal! The new NOS one is $600 in Jegs, I've not yet seen a price list anyplace but Cutler and it was bux there too. Anyone seen one reasonably priced?! Sad but true I'm leaning towards the pricey TPIS unit. Rails are $200 for it too but it's supposed to be a superior intake even over the converted carb units... Anyway, I had an interesting conversation with a local EFI tuner today. He suggested an OEM ECU over a DFI Gen7 which HE deals so that's saying something. He reccomended a MAF setup, either Ford or GM. Since I'd like to be able to tune and modify the setup after the fact so he said go GM. He's talking Tunercat for the software and said he'd teach me how it works. I'm also interested in the LT1 software - he works with those programmers BTW. He says 'Cat due to cost considerations. ECU should run $250 then there's wiring and sensors including a MAF. I've got a connection to get a Granatelli one but he's got some questions about the units I need to find out. Need to price this out fully but he felt I'd save a pile over a DFI Gen7 which could run $2400+ He thought I should spend the money on the intake. Since I've been a bit of a proponent for using a stock ECU (94-95 OBDI unit) I guess maybe this is only fitting. He seemed to feel that it would hold a tune longer in normal driving and require less "work" too. He seemed to think that the GEN7, as advanced as it is, would require mothering. He felt that I might not be able to use closed loop if my cam is very radical but that the MAF system would handle this pretty well as opposed to a MAP system - I agreed although I'm NOT sure my cam is quite that wild. He's tuned quite a few cars though so who am I to argue His attitude towards using less expensive OEM parts was refreshing to say the least - he knew his stuff and we talked for about a half hour. Hrm, he had a pretty low opinion of OEM O2s too and feels they're "worthless" for tuning. I disagree SOME but not by much (shrug). BTW - GEN7 Wide Band O2s have a listed lifetime of just 40hours I've heard of an OEM unit used in Cali for LEV Hondas I may look further into for "just" $280 that would need a circuit built for it (sigh). One thing at a time I guess but I know someone who can build the circuit who's interested. Updates as I learn more - I'm off to learn about TunerCat.... P.S. Thought just struck me hard.. I had discarded LT1 ECMs previously due to the Optispark. Can those be used on a regualr distributor?! Hrm, seems I'll be making another phone call tomorrow [ October 22, 2001: Message edited by: BLKMGK ]

Heh, a Maryland guy. What's your smog like up there? Pete, can ya' fill us in? Mustangs can slip by emissions since no one knows what to look for to tell a 351W apart from a 302 Had there been ready made mounts available I'd probably have done the Ford motor to be honest. Intakes are plentiful, TBs cheap, and I can get parts for them like mad including blowers The Ford T56 is actually a pretty cheap piece compared to a NEW GM T56 How they sell them cheaper than GM is beyond me since the Ford unit is a converted GM... Long story short, I think the Ford is an excellent idea if you can fab mounts but I don't regret my SBC this time around.

VERY interesting, thank you! How did you weigh it - corner scales? Unfortunatly the person I knew who had them sold them with his car (sigh). Heavier than I'd hoped but reasonable IMO. I'll be VERY interested in that JTR car is it'll come close to mine if it's got aluminum bits except I've got a fat T56 P.S. A glass hood weighs half what a stock one does - 15lbs in my case. Stock is only 30 (shrug).

Heck, show us pics of it in the Mustang I'd expect that it would fit depending on how the downpipes from the turbos run to the back. If you can post some pics or send them out to some of us we can probably give you a better idea as to how well it will fit including some measurements. I've got an 88 Mustang so we ought to be able to compare pretty easily...

Yes, thank you - couldn't recall that and it was killing me! IMO maxing the MAF shouldn't be too bad a problem. Some of the Buick guys do it though and I know some of the Mustang guys have - it pops the Check Engine light However if you're using a recurved MAF the range should be greater. When they recurve they change the resistance of the circuit - at higher air flows it reads higher resistance. That way the stock curves don't fire the injectors as much - they fool the engine into thinking it's getting less air but the bigger injectors are able to handle the additional air with the lower air pulsewidth. Clear as mud? That works GREAT except for a few little problems - low airflow over the sensor means a reading nearly in the noise level and can cause idle issues unless the motor is moving more air than stock. The other BIGGER issue is the spark curves - those are also based upon airflow and TPS. You end up using different parts of the spark curve than you might want since it thinks the airflow is lower. Make sense? Anyway, tread lightly and slowly. I believe what you wish to do is correct and that an FMU is a bandaid. If you've got the correct sized injector and it's not HUGE then stock fuel pressure and modified pulsewidths should be the way to go.... [ October 22, 2001: Message edited by: BLKMGK ]

http://www.fuelairspark.com/ is another place to checkout systems. Those guys have the old SpeedPro system which is apparently NOT the new FelPro. So confusing! Hrm, no prices on the site either - driving me nuts. No local dealers here in VA either (sigh). I DID run into someone who's going to be going to SEMA soon who's looking for a good EFI setup. He's got a motor no one makes an intake for so he must fabricate - the analog Holley he's got now isn't working well (ahem). I've told him to come here since we're also working the problems. (He's got a SWEET GTO) I'm hoping he'll follow through and contact me via E-mail as he's looking for advice on questions to ask the folks at SEMA. He's going to be keeping his eyes open to see what's new and what's getting developed. His needs probably match ours in that he wants a system that's VERY flexible. Start out with TBI, then move to port injection - doesn't want to have to use two ECUs to do this. Holley would require him to do that with their ECU - it can't run both TBI and TPI type systems. Anyway, I'm going to try and com up wit ha list of important questions for EFI manufacturers, sort of a FAQ, if anyone is interested in coming up with some. I'll post my initial list here as soon as I have some time.... DFI GEN7 is looking like what I might go with but I need to price it all out FIRST

Use the search, most will be answered. EFI 302 fits under stock hood, T5 type trans sticks up through shifter hole correctly. Custom driveshaft, custom engine mounts. Stock rear works fine but upgrading to an R200 in a 240 is recommended. Dunno' about the 351W but it's not that much bigger and can fit under the stock hood of a FOX Mustang if you know what you're doing so I see no reason why it wouldn't work... Search, you'll see that several have done the swap.

Jsut a heads up - talking to a guy last night who's building a Z, he clued me in that MSA has apparently got some 17inch wheels that look a bit like mine in 4lug withthe correct offset for the Z. I don't know if they've been advertised or not but I don't recall seeing them. Supposed to be like $250 or $299 apiece but migh tbe the way to go for those looking to go 17 and not switch hubs.

If anyone needs a brand new Edelbrock short pump let me know. It's never seen water and will be hitting E-bay sometime soon...

The Brute Force joints are the Neapco units. I wasn't able to get the one I've got into the shaft on my bench. I'm hoping to get to CVs before needing to replace another but as I'm slowly getting bolder with the throttle I might not make it

MAF sensors calculate ingested air based on measurement unlike the MAP sensors that infer the amount of air based upon readings and lookup tables. IMO MAF sensors work well in forced induction apps. If the injectors are big enough and you don't max the MAF sensors output it shoudl be able to provide sufficient fuel without bumping fuel pressure to the moon etc. That's been my experience on FORDS anyway. My Mustang once used 9th injector and at another time used one of those additional fuel pressure things who's name I've just forgotten The 9th injector setup had "issues" and the pressure riser would surge and do nasty things liek completely close off my return line sending fuel pressure to the moon. I spoke to friends and read up on th eEEC and determined that the MAF woudl do the job. Slapped in a set of 30lb injectors and never had to fiddle with fuel pressure again - it ran well. The MAF was calibrated for those injectors though. I'm NOT sure that it will work this easily with a GM. I'm not sure if their MAF sensors are available recalibrated or if the ECU must be changed (ECU change is a BETTER way to go). Recalibrating the MAF is actually NOT a good idea but I won't go into that - it's done by some and works well but the ECU is the correct way to go. Honestly I'd suggest you talk to the blower manufacturer and try to find some folks actually running blowers to get their experiences. That computer should be plenty sophisticated and can be reprogramed if that's needed. I don't think you "must" switch to MAP.

Cable clamps - available at any hardware store. They look like muffler clamps sorta'. Should wrap it tight a bit and then clamp the ends.