BLKMGK

Get it to a dyno or if yo umust use a G-Tech. I thought mine was really doing well with the old buttometer - 300RWHP I've got the RPM setup too on a 383 with decent compression and was shooting for 450flywheel HP. I suspect my secondaries, do you run vacuum secondaries too? If so, are you SURE they're opening? Compression can make a big difference, you need to figure out what it is too. A compression test might give you a clue but I'm not sure how accurate that is. Good luck, and keep us posted!

I believe you can ignore the other two. I had them as well and recall just bundling them up unused. Auto trans park switch maybe?

Talked a little with the local tuner about some of the PROM systems. I think he was a little surprised I knew as much as I do about them. Realize you must burn a PROM for EVERY single change Also worth noting is that if I get this setup working using LT1Edit I might have to pull over for all change uploads. That's a downside but not quite as bad as swapping an EPROM. Unless of course the upload goes bad and the ECU is toasted (shiver). Hrmph, we need an EFI forum

I've gone through a pile of their archives, more specifically the DIY-GMECM list. No search function which blows. I did at one point find a description of the outputs but looking at this wheel I think it's a bit off. Those lists are VERY high volume so I've not signed up yet. Worse comes to worse I will, I'll also be chatting with an electronics friend of mine who could certainly tell me if this doable - or worth it. Hope to write a doc comparing features and prices tonight bu tit's going to take awhile...

Pulled the Opti completely apart now.. One single very thin metal disk for a wheel inside. Mitsu sensor hangs over it and must have two sets of LEDs. The outer ring of the sensor wheel has what I believe to be 360 slots. More towards the middle are 4 small slots alternated with larger gaps that aren't all the same size I see no easy way to duplicate this with mag wheels. If I were to try and use the crank for the 360 wheel the degree of accuracy on the wheel and mount would be pretty sick. Have to remember how much bigger around that trigger wheel would be and you'll see what I mean. Not sure about the 48 gap weirdo ring either. It's the one being used for cam position I'm told. Only way I see to do this right now is to mount the original wheel in a distributor - yuck! Will check out that guys comments and add what I can - perhaps he's seen something i haven't... P.S. Spoke to the local tuner about this. He's the one who suggested this. Seems he's never done this before either and is scratching his head as well. He's suggesting possibly going with a Ford EEC to get to MAF but then I'll be dependant on him to tune it. No datalogging either. He doesn't like strictly MAP systems like the Commander I'm sending him E-mail. He posts there nearly as much as I post here and I'm not finding the thread [ October 26, 2001: Message edited by: BLKMGK ]

Decided on the Commander huh? I might be right there with you, one stumbling point right now is batch fire. I wanted sequential. I think I'm going to write down everything I know about all of the various units in a spreadsheet and post it to my site to help me make up my mind. Too hard to track all of the darned features and keep my head straight! Looks VERY good Mike, congrats!

Hrm, LT1 starter is same manual or auto - I asked for an LT1 starter and it engaged but I had trouble shimming it. It also didn't want to hot start on my motor. I got sick of this and got the CVR starter for half the cost of the LT1 unit. The LT1 unit will hit E-bay soon, nothing wrong with it... RAM clutch, same as what I used. Oh, I used the B&M shifter and it's worked out well. I have the stock POS in the garage somewhere if someone has a burning urge. My biggest point about the flywheels was that even though you may have a one piece rear seal block if you use a stroker crank you MAY end up with the older style flywheel mount on it My Eagle crank was like this - I was pissed! The Centerforce unit IS SFI though. There are no aftermarket bellhousings for this trans or blowshields Someone makes a blanket for it though I only wish I knew much about 3rd gear. The second T56 I've got has a bad synchro on that gear and I double clutch 4th too. It was cheap compared to the first one that was nuked though - I'll get it fixed this Winter so I can enjoy it come Spring

Having been burned on a trans I'd say go for one of the WELL KNOWN recyclers. The ones who advertise in Super Chevy etc. would be the ones I would trust as they have a name to protect. One of them even mentions specializing in swaps. P.S. You mentioned electronics - I noticed just the other day that Holley's Commander series has a unit that will plug into the LS1 harness for $899. The LT1Edit folks have a beta for the LS1 stock ECU too. Almost wish I'd done this - if I'd known then what I know now...

Careful, it's easier than editing 1 and 0s but still a bit harder than some of the aftermarket stuff. I've been looking into this a great deal lately (other threads - think Optispark) but have been looking at the flash programmable units so every change doesn't require pulling a chip. If you've ever programmed an aftermarket EFI system imagine trying to do it swapping CHIPS after every single change The LT1Edit stuff and Tunercat allow you to modify the flash programmable ECU much more easily. Not quite as on the fly as the aftermarket stuff but... Suggest anyone interested in this also check out this site -> http://www.diy-efi.org/gmecm/ Those guys know the systems inside and out but read the archives before posting or they'll bite your head off I'm considering seeing what they think of my 94-95 ECU idea. Older GM computers were all batch fire and most were MAP based. The later 94-95 (OBDI) were full sequential and MAF based. MAF may not be as big an advantage as I'd thought though, I'm still researching. The older systems work well though and they're pretty well known. You could have a lifetime of fun tinkering with them for cheap

3rotor motors get imported here but they're not stock in anything on this shore. They come out of the Japanese Cosmo. Turbo manifolds DO crack, it's not a big deal. Usually the crack is short and doesn't require replacement. New manifolds can be gotten and I happen to have one as well as a good used one with only a slight crack. Side note - this material has been tested by a metallurgist in one of the car groups since Mazda wouldn't tell anyone what it's made of. Seems it's stainless and the same sort of metal used in blast furnaces - still cracks Rotaries have VERY hot exhaust, normal catalytics melt right down... Detonation, yup go lean and you toast apex seals. So long as you don't go lean it's not a big deal. Rev limiters fix the other problem too - I bumped mine the other day 8K+ (doh!) First time too. They used ot have buzzers in them to warn you before hitting it because the motors were supposed to be so smooth you couldn't hear the Rs. I dunno' aboout that - mine sounds like a baby crying VERY loud at WOT and with the removal of the stock cats (hi-flow installed) it's noticably LOUDER. Smooth as glass straight to redline though! When it hits boost it flat out flies...

Yup, 100% normal and free HP The air is now both cooler and denser which means more power. That's the whole point of an intercooler. Just you wait till it gets real cool out, it just gets better!

Umm, what motor? In my case I used a regular SBC, stock 93-96(?) bellhousing (not LS1!), OEM replacement style clutchpressure plate from Jeg's or Summit (NOT the high dollar unit!), stock slave with a modified hose, starter was the Jeg's listed CVR that works MUCH better than the LT1 unit, my flywheel is the Centerforce SFI unit ($$). If you've got an older style crank you'll have to use theCenerforce flywheel, if you've got a one piece oil seal crank from the later LT1s then the regular LT1 flywheel will work (I've got one BTW). Note that my stroker crank had the OLDER style flywheel mount but it's in a later style one piece oil seal block THAT was an unpleasant surprise... 'zat help? If you've got questions or if I wasn't clear somewhere let me know. Oh, I've broken NO rear ends but snapped one Spicer Ujoint that I think was defective. I'm moving to CVs soon The 6speed doesn't make things terribly hard on the rear unless you get nasty with it.

Check with MikeSCCA. I don't recall exactly how far out his mounts place the calipers but they were well made from some pretty good steel. I believe he's willing to sell parts as opposed to complete kits but I've not spoken to him in awhile. Hrm, not seen him here either, hope he's okay. Anyone heard from him? Have to break down and shoot him some E-mail!

Never heard of it being done but it's certainly small enough that room won't be an issue. If you're really seriously maybe hunt aoround for a 3rotor and get a REAL thrill Even a 2rotor in a Z would be interesting and I'd certianly go single turbo for that. I'm just not sure how much torque it would make off the line. Once moving though it would be pretty sick If you're already tinkering with them you know what sorts of issues they can have. I'm thinking mine will never be a single though, way too much work for a daily driver and emission would kill me here. Hrm, an RX3 or a 510 would be sweet. Even lighter than a Z and hwo would evensee it ocming? Harder to swap maybe with the smaller engine bay but.... RX3s and whatnot are next to impossible to find around here, a shame too because I'd LOVE to own one!!!

I think what would confuse me so far as CAM an dCRANK was his having said Push Rods. Push Rods to me says CAM since that's what's riding on the lifters. Had he said just RODS I'd have been thinking crank Mike, we got a speel checker? Lemme' at it because with my fast typing I screw up often and have to edit . Never been able to find one here though

Umm, no go boom when it hits yes, however it could very easily cause a BIG leak and with that shaft flopping around in there you could quickly end up looking like the Challenger! Yeah, the remaining shaft concerns me but it's holding and I'm not launching it hard. Ticks me off I paid so much for those Us when the Neapco units are available everywhere at PepBoys for peanuts! Need to get off my butt and get some 280Z stubs to go with my CVs...

Have you ever met someone who PLANNED on having their car totaled? Not too many of hem around and the ones that DO plan this migh tbe aiming for YOU!

Well, my motor is a junk yard unit - long story With my cowl hood closed an dfan on there's a BREEZE coming out of th ecowl. It's actually picked paper off the gorund and sucked it up against the radiator. With the hood up you can feel the air at the back of the car I had one person at a cruise complain about the hot breeze and then move away once - I laughed One speed, two speed - so long as I don't run it full time it should be fine. My friend ran his on high whenever the engine was running - that's how I got the fan frame. Seems it fried pretty good being run that hard....

Sweet, congrats! This is supposed to be a rare part, perhaps Nissan is stocking it again or you got lucky? Either way, terrific!

FWIW my Cobra fan, which is supposed to be 2speed, runs one sped no matter which winding gets power (sigh). I might have two grounds too but I'm less sure of that. Running juice to both hot wires displays no apparent change in fan speed. I was stumped so I've simply set it up so that one relay is thermo switched and the other switched with a toggle. When the toggle one is clicked on the power to the thermo one is cut just in case it can't handle power on both windings. Not sure if mine is running high speed or not but it cools wonderfully! Next fan might be a Taurus one though so I can have two speeds (shrug).

Would like to see the Opti refrence Here's the deal - I'm attempting to put the LT1 INJECTION (94-95) onto my existing 383. I'm aware the LT1 intake won't work but the TPIS MiniRam WILL as would a converted carb intake. The EFI won't care what the intake is (shrug). However the Opti will NOT retrofit to the block I've got now - I know this. I would like to find a way to create a signal like the Opti using a distributor or wheelpickup. I've found that the Opti puts out TWO signals - one high rez, the other low which gives cam position. How to simulate that is the bear.. Make sense now? Reread my previous post - should make more sense now Local guy says it can be done but we didn't talk about the Opti and I can't reach him for a few more days. He may be full of it or a genius. I'd be VERY interested in a link to the F-body discussion as it's exactly what I'm trying to do except in a Z. Electromotive made a unit that sorta' replaced the Opti but it didn't give an accurate cam position. They tried to synthesize (sp?) the signal from the mag pickup but it wandered and wasn't always right. I talked to a guy that owned one I'm thinking a high rez signal from the mag pickup and a low rez for cam position from the distributor maybe? Trick here is to do this for less than another system. The Holley system in Summit is about $2K+ w/intake. Converting this system may cost more, especially if I use the TPIS. I'm trying to decide if it's worth it, I won't know till I see how difficultexpensive creating an Opti will be (sigh). Holley system is lookin' REAL good right about now but the LT1 unit is probably more sophisticated and a bigger challenge. At some point you just have to say "good enough" though Still searching... Oh, a distributor CAN be put in an LT1 block and a carb intake used just fine. There's a stubdummy distributor in those cars to drive the oil pump. My block has a one piece crank seal so perhaps I could use a real Opti with some work (not sure year of block) but considering what I've read on their reliability I wouldn't touch one. Ours was just replaced on the Impalla P.S. Guy I ran into who's gong to SEMA is leaving Tuesday and I've given him a ton of questions to ask aboout EFI

Don't run the fuel pump directly off of the switch, it probably can't handle the amperage. Run the pump off of a relay and se the switch to run the relay instead. IF you've already got it setup this way then I'd be looking to see if there's something possibly shorting the switch some way. Does it only occur on a restart?

Soak it in penetrating lube. Tap on it lightly to dislodge. I put the nut on mine lightly and banged on it some. I bent up some of the hardware so I ended up ordering new pins anyway as they weren't super expensive. (shrug) Oh, Heat might help the process some too in order to wick the oil in but don't go nuts. Good luck, those pins are actually the easy part of the job Wait till you start trying to get the long rods out of the arms. Search here for many tips on getting those out - I replaced both of mine...

Okay, I'm trying to understand exactly how this thing works and what it's function is. My goal is to find out if it can be replaced with a regular distributor and the EFI moved to an older SBC. I'm quizzing a local EFI guy on this but can't reach him for a few days. Another guy I'm speaking to via e-mail seems to feel it's a no go. I'm honestly not sure - we just replaced this piece on our Impalla and opening it up (old part) I'm surprised it looks so much like a regular distributor - I just have no idea what signals it sends out Looking inside of the Opti I see a short rotor, 8 lugs, a center electrode, a vac connection, and a plug going ito the base that I've not yet opened. The potting on it covers the connections from the "cap" studs to 8 plug wire connectors - looks like a crab style cap! The unit uses a single coil - a surprise to me since I thought it used coil packs. This was also replaced on our Impalla because it was "corroded". Let's hear it for GM techs I will open the base up when I have time to get greasy. Anyone know anything about how this thing works? Where's the "Opti" part? P.S. Guy I'm talking to via E-mail says go TEC2 for a total cost of $3500 w/intake, injectors, ECU, and TB. Only thing not included is pumpfilter apparently. That's the price to beat I think. Pics! http://www.charm.net/~mchaney/optisprk/optisprk.htm HRM!!!! -> http://www.google.com/search?q=cache:SnUj2K2WxFw:users.hit.net/~rah/noopti.html +optispark&hl=en http://www.ag.auburn.edu/users/gparmer/efi/myfaq.htm (Hrm, how do I get a distributor to duplicate THESE characteristics?!) [ October 24, 2001: Message edited by: BLKMGK ]

Good point Ross, I was remiss in that aspect. My struts are NOT sectioned however I suspect that I'm riding on the bumpstops occasioanlly as I find my bumpers pushed up to the top when I pull the wheel. Previous struts looked prettyy new before being replaced but were DEAD as a doornail - possibly from bottoming... DO consider sectioning while it's apart, I probably should have considered it... Hrm, not heard from SCCA lately - Mike you out there? Oh, I'm running a 240Z so this might not be quite apples to apples [ October 24, 2001: Message edited by: BLKMGK ]