BLKMGK

"Well" in a Mustang app? Umm, as a Mustang owner I can tell you I've snapped two cables and had the plastic "self adjusting" piece implode too. This is often replaced with aluminum and a threaded custom rod on the other end to try and get some adjustment. Heavy duty clutches just make that all worse as the pedal just gets heavier and strains everything along the line. IMO the hydraulic clutch is MUCH nicer and if it could be put on the Mustang I have no doubt people would switch in droves if it were a bolt-in. Those "custom" cables with the adjustment rod aren't cheap either - new setups use a stock cable with an adjuster on the firewall - consider something like that for adjustment unless you want to crawl under the car to do it. How had you planned to setup th eadjustment for the cable? Really, the hydraulic setup is FAR easier and has been done by others. Little bit of hardware and it bolts up like the Z stuff. Master and hydraulic TO with some plumbing...

I plan to get the stubs from Mike, have them drilled for 5lug - probably at a machine shop this time, have my adapters welded on by a friend who's a pro, consider having the shafts cryrotreated ($?), and then as weather gets too cold to drive it much I'll tear it down and swap them in. Might do bearings and obviously seals while I'm at it. I'll swap in heavier springs in the rear too - about 250lbs I think. I hope that will solve ALl of my breakage in back for a good time to come. Yeah, I've got Scottie's adapters for this. Got in on the first buy as I knew this might be an issue and sure enough it was

Guy with the Paxton pump is being really cagey about the condition of the pump. Found a newly rebuilt unit with all of 25 runs on it for $150 and will probably be going for that one. Hopefully the regulator deal will go through and I can find a good filter. I'm finding all of this stuff on Corral.net which is a big Mustang site. Lot's of these guys dump EFI stuff left and right and I could get injectors DIRT cheap! Just not sure I want to run old injectors if I can help it - new ones are only $210. Trying to track down a TB while I'm at it but no responses yet. I figure one of them will go through and I'll end up paying about $100 or so for a 70mm unit. Hrm, pump for $150, regulator for about $100, filter for $80 max since that's a new price, $100 for a TB, $200 for intake conversion, $100 for a fabb'ed intake elbow to hold the TB, and $210(max) for 8 30lb injectors. IF this all works out it ought to be pretty sweet and using so many used parts will save me bunches! Still deciding on an ECU...

Bad vac hoses? LOL! The RX7TT has 30FEET of vac hoses UNDEr the upper intake manifold. You cannot imagine the number of weird issues these suckers cause as they age, crack, and get knocked off by high boost. Really sick I tell ya'....

Heh, I know about Spicers. These were in the car from BEFORE I knew. I also know about the Neapco units but won't be using them once I've got CVs I was starting to think the first one was defective as this one was holding up VERY well, then boom! it's toast too. Quite a few of us have blown them, this should be my last one. Junkyard axle goes in tomorrow , CVs will go in soon when I take it off the road for the Winter along with EFI, possibly NOS, and maybe a blower if I find a good head unit... [ November 03, 2001: Message edited by: BLKMGK ]

Sweeet! That would be perfect, I'd love to use something like that! I've seen something like that from MSD I think but this sounds like a higher quality piece. Would really appreciate the part number and I'll bet others would too. Thank you! [ November 04, 2001: Message edited by: BLKMGK ]

Dammit, broke another! Different side this time but it was the inner joint again. Low speed, I heard a pop as I was about to leave the cruise. I pulled back in and pulled on everything - it all looked good Started to leave and it snapped, locking up the driver's side wheel at about 5mph. Luckily a rollback had pulled into the lot. He was scoping out the street race action for some friends and gave me a lift home for an under-the-table $40. Tomorrow I'll use up my last "spare" from the wrecking yard. Mike, were you ever able to locate those 280 stubs we talked about? If so I need them, I'm going to go CVs ASAP - this sitting on the side of the road sux! The guy I'd had lined up for them has been out of touch so if you've got some I'd appreciate it. (sigh) [ November 03, 2001: Message edited by: BLKMGK ]

Pump is a cylinder with heat sink fins on it. One side is flat with four flat "feet" that have holes in them. My thought is to rubber mount it to a plate and then rubber mount that plate to the car. I'm considering using urethane sway end links for the "rubber". That's sort of how my current Holley is mounted except using only one set of rubber and some metal still touches - it's actually the hose and regulator that makes the most noise now with that. Can't wrap it - it would over heat and die. (shrug) I'll work it out, the price is right

Sweet, I may have just found a Paxton 1000HP fuel pump for $100 I have a line on a Paxton regulator for $50 and an Aeromotive one for $100 Don't want to give away the source yet until I've scored what I need but I WILL. The pump isn't new so I'm a little concerned and am asking about condition, I'm still waiting to hear about the Paxton regulator. The Aeromotive unit is new and about $40 less than what it woould normally cost, I can't bitch about that. I've got another source I'm going to check that I've not looked at lately but when I'm done I hope to have saved a couple hundred bucks. Hopefully I won't get burned buying used stuff. Hrm, and yeah the Paxton pump is VERY loud. If you think a Holley blue pump is loud you've not heard anything yet! This sucker sounds like a coffee grinder. So does the Aeromotive which is what I'd actually prefer to run. I've got one of the Paxton pumps on the Mustang that I didn't isolate and the sound inside is incredible. IF I get this pump I'm going to have to get creative quieting it down It's got 4little feet and is billet, if anyone has ideas I'm all ears. Hrm, just realized I still need a filter - doh!

Someone call him a name? Heh, I had this same problem with my motor - kripes it's a Chevy I didn't know firing order or anything (lol). I just popped the cap off and bumped the motor to see which way it was turning and figured it out from there - works on any motor Remember that if you get stuck working on something weird - like a Mopar (lol). They probably all turn the same - don't they all except Hondas? The S2Ks supposedly "fixed" that right?

Sorry guys, hadn't seen the responses in this thread till now... Yes, things like electrical load an A/C compressor turning on WILL drag the idle down. If you start at 900RPM and lose 150 or 200RPM the motor could stall or run rough. ALL modern OEM EFI systems have a way of bumping idle when A/C is turned on and many carb systems did too. My RX7 even bumps idle when a heavy load is placed on the ALTERNATOR The SDS has a solenoid that will let in extra air for the A/C but it cannot run the stepper motor type idle motor that most modern EFI systems have. A Commander ECU, sans harness I think and sensors I'm sure, is $900. Compare that to the SDS! Intake a problem right? My Victor is being shipped to a local guy for conversion - $175-$200. Injectors will run me $210 new (30lb Ford) and less if I buy used. For a throttle body I'm having a 90degree elbow made of sheet metal for $100 and running a Ford TB. A 70mm TB is less than $200 if memory serves - and that's new. I should be able to use my existing distributor and you might too. Fuel system sensors, maybe some wiring need to be added but you get the idea. Full control of the spark and fuel with better mileage on top of it. Stay away from the TPI systems BTW unless it's a VERY tame moter - trust me. Add all that up for a budget system guys. Holley sells power packs with injectors, manifold, and TB if you want to take a shortcut. You provide the ECU (shrug). No idea on price yet but they're really helping folks out with that IMO. Now, in MY case I desire a few added options. Bank fire instead of batch for one. But my primary desire is wideband O2. Why? Because I want to be able to set the A/F ratio all over the load curve. Leaner for MPG, richer for power. Under boost or NOS it'll adjust for me and even run the NOS stages for you if you want. Holley might get this ability but it's not yet a sure thing. An ECU to do this from FAST is about $1900 - harness, sensors, and ECU. For about $400 more I can buy the DFI GEN7 (I think, it may need some other options to be comparable too - hard to tell ). Why would I consider that? Ability to interface with multiple ignition systems out of the box with no hardware mods and sequential injector firing if I provide it a cam sensor signal. Grassroots support for the DFI is lower though - as in I can find no one with experience with their system online posting about it. Anyway, I'm still researching all this and am not yet done with my research. I'm trying to find demo copies of the various software to check it all out... An interesting site to check out too -> http://www.rancefi.com/

Hrm, BONE stock FOX Mustangs at sea level are lucky to get into the 14s if I recall correctly. Frankly I've not seen a bone stock one in awhile so perhaps I'm out to lunch. 550HP on a stock block is a grenade with the pin pulled. If you figure he needs that much power to get there at that elevation my advice is to aim for 13s. At 450HP on a stock block the clock starts ticking, it may last a long time, it may last one pass. These are thinwall castings and when it goes it will rip the crank straight out the bottom with girdles still attached if you've got them The shop I work with has witnessed this. It's not the crank or rods that go first, well maybe rod bolts, but the block itself. I have seen them cracked straight down the middle like an egg! Would he consider a 351W? It's an easy swap and looks stock if done correctly. Consider the ATI blowers too as I think he'd be bucks ahead over a turbo. The downside is that turbos compensate for altitude changes and crank turned blowers won't. While you're at it weigh the car, I think you may find it's heavier than 3200lbs unless it's a coupe or steps have been taken to lighten it already. GTs in particular are portly! Figure out the power you need first, 550HP just seems awful high to me but having never lived at altitude it's possible I don't understand just exactly how bad it effects performance

Sounds like Scottie was pretty close, looking forward to seeing some runs with full boost Bulbed the Supra pretty good (lol).

What Lone said, mine was made by Bendix and cost about $50. I ended up using the hose from a factory unit I had problems with but most just drilltap the plastic. Local parts place was able to get it no problem...

Some thoughts... Swap the rods, the powdered units are strong but at the "right" HP level they will turn to dust. Hunt around the 'net and you'll find at least one site where a guy had this happen on a radical blown car. If it's going to be apart you might as well take care of this too. LS1 has a DIS ignition - no distributor. Make sure the SDS can interface with it. FAST, DFI GEN7 both interface with it if SDS won't but price is higher. Since this is a blown app you might want to consider stepping up to a unit with a wideband O2. My recent research has been interesting in that I've been told that blown apps are CAKE to tune with a wideband. I'll try to post my results soon (really!) - trying to decide between FAST and DFI right now. DFI GEN7 is at least $400 more expensive BTW but is sequential out of the box. Expensive motor to blow up....

ROTFL - we "Slashdotted" the site! Kind of funny, I'm sure th efact that it was posted on thirdgen.org had somehting to do with it too Wait a bit, it'll come back.

http://www.geocities.com/jerrysturbovette/home.html Hrm, this looks like it owuld fit a HybridZ

Duh, I was thinking early Z at first. At 450HP and who knows what torque my 3500+ lb turbocharged Mustang went 12.15(best) and 118mph (best). I believe the weight was closer to 3700lbs but I'm fuzzy on that - it was shocking heavy and that was without my fat butt in it. Power was calculated off of the MPHweight, no dyno runs ever. That was with a T5 and 3.08 gears - M&H DOT tires. I was a lousy driver with 60fts never under 2.0 that I recall You sure he won't make 11s? Maybe power was higher in my car than I realized?

He started with their carb kit and went from there. I'm asking him to give me measurements from the center of the waterpump snout to the edge of the blower I'm trying to decide if I should do the Ford TB or the carb style TB - I'm not yet sure. I've asked him about the throttle cable as you'll note it's a little whacky but it looks like Lokar had something to do with it Geez, I'm wanting a blower bad. He says that tuning with the wideband is almost a must for forced induction apps like his - he's got a standalone unit. I'm asking him for details on that since I could use it on the RX7 and I know some folks elsewhere who would really like one. I'd expect that quite a few of us here (Scottie? Ron?) might also find a wideband VERY informative. The FAST and GEN7 DFI will actually richen the injectors if your nitrous starts to go lean on a run (pant pant). Holley may or may not go forward with their wideband hardware. We need an EFI forum

No relay on it NOW?! Umm, I'd put one on ASAP. The switch might (or might not :eek take the juice but I'll bet that the voltage at the pump is lower than it shoudl be. A relay will really help out if it's fed with good wire - the pressure switch up front will no longer be the weak link...

Umm, 302 and 351W share almost everything including heads, front cover, intake, and yes bellhousings. The T5 will swap just fine from one small block Ford to another in the same engine class (NOT onto a Cleveland!). The flywheel is a different balance if memory serves so you'll have to have the correct one when doing the swap. Clutch slave is another potential stumbling block but use of the SEARCH function should provide plenty of help for that as it's been hashed a few times. Hrm, be aware that the blowshield bellhousings are bit bigger and VERY heavy should you consider using one of those...

http://autohobbypage.com/cgi-bin/_image.pl?/show/wam98/wam085.jpg http://autohobbypage.com/cgi-bin/_image.pl?/show/wam98/wam086.jpg http://autohobbypage.com/cgi-bin/_image.pl?/show/wam98/wam087.jpg Can you say beemer?

I'll 3rd or 4th that - the Howe radiator i what I'm running and it's quality is excellent. Talk to the local circle track guys - yeah these are track radiators but onthe track they solid mount them and beat the crap out of them. Unless they really take a solid lick they tend to stay together I saw one that was tweaked noticably and still running fine in a car that raced every Friday night. The trick is to mount them correctly. Yeah, the track guys do stupid things wih the mounting but to get them to live urethane or rubber mounting is the way to go - nothing should rub them. The S10 mounts mentioned in JTR work pretty well up top but down low I had to cobble some rubber. Pics on my site of the fan mount who's idea I got from Pete. Rubber isolates it from the fan. On that jeep with the BlackMagic fan (cool name!) I'd toss the fan and put on a Taurus or Cobra fan. My Cobra fan puts out so much air I can feel it from behind the vehicle and I've seen it suck paper off the ground and hold it to the radiator! I don't have a shroud on mine either but it has NO problem cooling it right down. I believe I'd recommend the Taurus unit over the Cobra simply because getting two speeds out of it sounds easier, mine appears to be single speed for some reason...

http://www.geocities.com/64duece/newplenum.html Oh yes, I'm chattin with this guy about his car. Holley EFI, what looks like an ATI blower, sick I tell you! I wanna' know if it fits [ October 31, 2001: Message edited by: BLKMGK ]

12s?! Dude, I'd be shooting for 11s and I'll bet you hit it too! Good luck and keep us posted please!