Villeman

Well, my box is the expected 2in longer that the 4 speed I have...damn. But I will assemble it and drop it into the car after I have checked everything (total restauration, want to change as little as possible while seeing what works...)

Update time: Got finally around to assemble the engine....like 4 times. Quite a steep learning curve but fun till the end. The citroen engine we have is like 100% opposite of what you can get in an engine Finally got everything together and assembled. Also picked up the splash pan and original (rubber!) euro spec Airdam, looking good so far. Much to the joy of my father (who can weld a new car around a license plate) we found that one dogleg will need to be replaced. ps: does somebody know how the front splash guard in the wheelhouses look like? I only have the rear ones left. from this: to this: what I now realise, no emissions liners are installed. 12/75 N42/N42 combination from California with emissions equipment present

Hey, thats not a problem, I figured out where it came from in the mean time (1993 200Sx with Ca18DET engine), but the gears do not look too convincing (regarding wear), any I would like to have a second opinion before I put it in. "the CA18DET was sold as the only available engine in the S13 chassis 200SX (Euro model) until replaced by the S14 in 1994"

sorry to bring this back up. Bellhousing from a 4 speed is machined and ready to go. Anyhow, the gears from the CA18DET seem to be bad. Is there any comprehensive guide to spot dealbreaker flaws? Don´t want to put millions of pictures up. thanks in advance! btw: no need to shorten the driveshaft????Really? Would be too good to be true

Testprint is ready, dipped in acetone and sandblasted, final ones will get painted flat black and have the Datsun Logo, This is the standin for fitment... what looks porous is actually just resolidified dust from sanding it before dipping, didn´t get everything off. Compared measures with original one, should be 100% fit. Can also get the finish glossy but I would like to go more to the OEM look (textured).

I was just afraid the aluminium might crack while pressing in the bearing?

Well, the bearing was stuck while we took the C gearbox apart, so i assumed it was meant to "stick". If it´s supposed not to be pressed then we screwed it up...should have checked before I haven´t tried to assemble it so far, we just still had the tools so we could have widened it some more. I guess it will be trial and file ...... Edit: NewZEd thanks for the read, that tells me I should have had more clearance right.... darn...

already did open it + don´t have proper measuring equipment (i know..... ) I was just interested because I assume with aluminium I have one shot of getting it right.

well, if thats the best advice they could give us....

There are people in the Netherlands who could ship you a fully fabricated bellhouse i think. At least they have done it before. If TonyD finds his way here maybe he can establish a connection. Or I could ship the one I got today out of our shop doing the same thing. Remember, you can also take a 4 speed and relocate the switch for reverse. you know this I assume? http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/240SX5spd/transmission.htm ps: send me a PM and I can tell you who has those in europe. Depending on what you want to spend, I have a donor car with a european 5 speed.

Hi, i have a quick question, I just followed the article to adapt a 240sx gearbox with the help of a modified 280z 4 speed bellhousing to my Z. Question is, we opened the lower bearing from 58mm to 62mm but how much clearance do you need? My father argues that a H7 should be good, the mechanic used 1.5 hundredth (negative) , so its 61,985mm for the bearing to be pressed it... since the borrowed tool is still there, is a negative clearance okay with a aluminium bellhousing? I am refering to this article http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/240SX5spd/transmission.htm they tell you to increase the size since the bearing will be pressed in by the shaft during assembly, but we ended witha bearing stuck in the bellhousing while disassembling it. Anybody done that before? Would hot assembly be an option?

oh, didn´t know that, wasn´t some guy claiming that he has lots of LD28 cranks from patrols in south africa? Anyways.....as I told, you can get those in Europe

Well, I can point you to a diesel crank easily here in europe. Just write to Jelmerpatrol ..... its FAR more easy to get one in europe than in America. Just forget the "maxima crankshaft", it was used in Patrols, Laurels and other vehicles. Maybe this helps...

hey, its the very thin spoiler you can buy as classic from msa and others but the old ones are made of a rubber like substance Iirc. Came standard on european models (autobahn, dodgy steering at high speeds without)

Hey, the caps are for my wheels, yes. A seller told me that Coyote (a japanese company?????) made them for american racing (I showed him the centercap with the vortex on it). It´s like the new american racing Vector center caps, only that this size is sold out looooooong ago (he wanted 240$ for 4 used caps). So a friend made a 3D model to print and we thought "why not add a Datsun logo". Will post pictures of the printed one. They were textued black OEM but I guess I will also highlight the Datsun white. Chroming would need a metallisation, and even though I could do it in our cleanroom they would shoot me..... The Euro models came with a OEM Airdam (rubber) wich i recently stol...ähm..purchased for a reasonable price They also had the splash guard (late style sadly) and I don´t recall my car having one, thus the question. I am still afraid of the louvers ripping off at over 100mph