proxlamus©

you could always get a much longer pipe for the intake on the turbo... hell you could even go crazy and make custom vents on the rear quaters like Supra's have.. or even like the Ferrari's and put a bend pipe up there and put the filter behind the vent.. this would mean.. no water puddles

Well I just picked up a digital Apexi S-AFC and a DSM BOV today with a flange for only $150 for everything! Not bad! and the guy brought it to me at school.. Anyway.. I will begin swapping everything in, and taking pictures... and documenting everything.. so I will be able to let EVERYONE know how it works out.. and if in fact.. I can USE IT! Anyone have any good recommendations?!?! I will begin next week =)

Yeh.. any idea's on cost?? I would love to buy a "pre-made" setup witha re-tuned ECU and a harness.. would save alot of time and frustration!! I am interested.. shoot me an e-mail

I wouldn't mind a copy!! Would ya be able to send one to me?! Thanks! proclamus @ hotmail . com Without the spaces.. damn spam scanners

ohh man that sucks.. im sorry to hear that..

.50 trim is nearly ideal for our Z cars.. observe Air Flow Data Plotted Against Different Boost Levels and Transcribed to Garrett T04E-50 Compressor Map (Pressure Ratio vs. lbs/min) * 6500 rpm red line points for this compressor at all three level of boost are in the 75% +/- 1% efficiency region. * 3250 rpm "knee" points for this compressor at all three level of boost are in the 74% +/- 1% efficiency region. * When accelerating towards redline, the efficiency passes through the maximum 78% area, thus performance is ideal during this period. * It should be obvious that this compressor can handle even more boost and remain very efficient above the 20psi line. "It can grow with your need for more speed" * This compressor will give great performance compared to the stock T3-60. * Goldilocks says "just right" This is the 60 trim exhuast housing... Air Flow Data Plotted Against Different Boost Levels and Transcribed to Garrett T04B-60-1 Compressor Map (Pressure Ratio vs. lbs/min) * 6500 rpm red line points for this compressor all fail to reach the highest efficiency region. * 3250 rpm "knee" points for this compressor at all three levels of boost are in the surge threshold region * It should be obvious that this compressor will work better with a larger displacement engine as it's sweet spot is far to the right where higher flows are required. * Goldilocks says "too demanding"

------------------------------------- Quote : Apexi-usa.com The Super AVC-R is the premium closed-loop electronic boost controller on the market. The AVC-R allows flexible control over virtually every aspect of boost control and adds new innovative functions such as injector pulse monitoring and gear specific boost control. Some key functions include: RPM-based boost and solenoid duty cycle control, scramble boost, self learning mode, 2D ghost map trace mode, analog display mode, real time replay and peak hold data modes. The AVC-R utilizes an ultra-fast microprocessor and a high quality solenoid valve to control boost. The result is ultra-fast response and accurate, stable boost control. ---------------------------------

Exhuast backfire is a RICH condition Intake backfire and stuttering is a LEAN condition

http://www.geocities.com/awd92gsx/zinjector.html

How much boost are you planning on running?? The Turbo fuel pump will supply enough fuel for about 12 psi of boost.. roughly.. before it starts to lean out... You will need about 80psi of fuel for 10 pounds of boost. but.. with an N/A block and head.. your compression will be a bit high... so unless you have 93 octane... and ZXT injectors you will have detonation and pinging... BTW - RRFPR are the same as FMU's (fuel management unit) but it should be plenty. Here's an e-mail I got from a very nice gentleman Dan... ---------------------------- I would recommend finding a P90 head. You will have detonation problems with the N47 over 6 psi of boost. The fuel pump system is very important when using a FMU. I have been fine tuning my setup over the past year. I found it is best to use a Mallory comp110 low pressure pump to feed two stock type efi pumps in parallel. Here is a photo of my twin pump setup. Of course there is a Mallory low pressure pump by the gas tank feeding the two efi pumps in the engine compartment. I relocated the fuseable links to under the mounting plate and used a relay to power the pumps. I cut off the wire from the fuseable link connectors and used fuseable link wire and crimp connectors to complete the circuit. I’m using msd pumps which cost about 100.00 each. I run about 90 psi for 12 psi of boost and 100 psi for 14 to 15 psi on the NA stock injectors. 60 psi is good for 6-8 psi of boost with NA injectors. I’m using the stock FPR and a bell engineering fmu and stock NA efi computer. I disassembled the distributor and welded the advance slot in the so that I get only 8 degrees of advance. I set the timing to 20 initial (28 total) and use the vacuum advance. The vacuum advance is great for gas mileage because it adds 10 to 15 degrees during no boost conditions. I use 93 octane but can get by with 91 if I retard the initial timing 3 degrees. I liked the straight T3 turbo better than the t3/t4 for street performance. The t3 made 5 psi of boost by 2200 rpm and full boost by 2800 rpm! The t3/t4 only makes 5 psi at 3000 and full boost by 3500. The low rpm torque of the t3 was great and fun to drive! Rolling on the throttle in low rpms in 3rd gear and getting wheel spin is fun. I’m using the t3/t04b-h3 wheel turbo. The t04b turbo doesn’t require a spacer like the t04e. No need for a IC if you are running less than 10 psi of boost. I know the dynos show big improvements with an IC but it is not that apparent in the “pant seat dynoâ€. You will need a 2+2 clutch (240mm)! The stock clutch will hold 10 psi of boost. After that you will need a spec stage 2. The spec stage 3 sucks on the street but is very tough. This system works for me but the cost of the three pumps (370.00) and the fmu (200.00) is about the cost of a “stand alone†efi system. You need a fuel and boost pressure gage in order to tune correctly. I put a boost gage in the clock location and a fuel pressure gage on the pillar. Walbro pumps are loud! Your whole entire car will vibrate! My g-tech says my 78 280 NA car is making 130 hp, so we are close. But the turbo car is doubling that at 15 psi! Use the formula (boost+14.7)/14.7 to get the hp multiplier form a turbo. So 10 psi would give you: (10+14.7)/14.7=1.68, 1.68 x 135hp (you current NA hp) = 226 hp. I would just do a simple turbo install first then do the IC later. ---------------------------------- That might help you out a bit

LoL... this is so weird... I have a 1978 280Z N/A that I will be bolting a turbo onto over SPRING BREAK! haha Small world huh?? Anyway... you can run the N/A AFM and the N/A ECU and run about 10psi *INTERCOOLED* and at least 91 octane.. or you will detonate BAD... You can change the air/fuel ratio with something called an Apexi S-AFC... basically it's a Super - Air flow converter.... what this small computer does is intercepts the AFM signal, "tricks" the ECU that more air is in the system, so it puts out more fuel. There is a low throttle setting and a high throttle setting. -------------------------------------- The second-generation S-AFC is a fuel computer that adjusts fuel/air ratio by modifying the air-flow meter/MAP sensor signal. The S-AFC features a user-definable, eight-point, adjustable fuel curve that can be set in 500 RPM increments. The range of fuel adjustment is +/- 50% at each of the user-defined setting points. On hot-wire vehicles, the Deceleration Air Flow Correction function is capable of curing the erratic idle and stall problems associated with open-atmosphere blow-off valves on hot-wire air-flow meter systems. The S-AFC is capable of monitoring and replaying the following data channels in Numerical, Analog Meter and Graph displays: Intake Manifold Vacuum/Boost Pressure, Air Flow Capacity, Intake Manifold Pressure, Karmann Frequency, Engine RPM, Throttle Position, and Air Flow Correction %. --------------------------------------- It needs a tach input though.. and the stock tach sender won't work, so an MSD tach signal converter will make it work.. or an MSD 6A ignition with tach signal with run fine. Also you need an 60mm TB from a 240SX.. and use the TPS throttle positioning sensor from the 60mm TB .. because our's won't work. Now to increase fuel by it's self... you can either choose a Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator... or an FMU (Rising Fuel pressure regulator) I posted a thread over on Zcar.com.. i suggest reading it... http://www.zcar.com/forums/read.php?f=1&i=547505&t=547505 Very very informative thread... BTW what are you doing for the oil pan? Are you running an N/A pan with a welded bung? or an turbo oil pan? If you run a turbo oil pan, you will need an turbo oil pickup since the N/A pickup won't work with an turbo pickup

hey Kellysguy.. what does your casting say? Mine says "02P X30A" BUT i do have an automatic transmission... does it stick out further?? Cuz that would suck if I couldnt put it on..

1981-1983 - 280ZX turbo xame with a T3 turbo only oil-cooled 1984 - 300ZX turbo came with the same T3 turbo as the 280ZXT turbo (non-watercooled) 1985-1986 - 300ZX turbo came with a new water-cooled T3 turbo, same specs as the 280ZXT turbo.. just (watercooled) 1987-1989 - 300ZX turbo replaced the T3 with a T25 turbo... smaller and less power

WOW!!! That is AWSOME!!! Do you have a spacer or anything?? Or just the stock turbo exhuast manifold and Z31 turbo?? BTW do you have an 5-speed or an Automatic tranny? The T-5 BW tranny stick out alot so obviously it won't fit with a T-5... BUT.. wow.. it looks like it fits!! Thank you so so so so so so much for those pics!

the Z31 T3 turbo and the 280ZX turbo are exactly the SAME! However.. the Z31 T3 has a water-cooled center section.. for longer life.. and better cooling.

anyone anyone?

I have a quick question... As air compresses it generates heat.. hence why turbo cars *should* have an intercooler. Now as air expands.. it cools. technically.. as the exhuast gas exits the engine... wouldn't it be more efficient to go from let's say a 2.25" to a gradual 3" piping in a relatively small distance? The exhuast gases would "expand" as the piping got larger, resulting in cooling, which means a faster flow?? I could be wrong.. but a crazy assumption?!

You got your Z31 T3 turbo.. and downpipe to fit in your 240Z??? Other than the wastegate modifications... did you do any other mods to the car?? Please please PLEASE take some pics!! Somone told me the Z31 downpipe will NOT fit because it will hit the transmission!! ohh I need to see this to believe it!! I just don't want to be screwed when I take off my intake manifold and bolt on my turbo exhuast manifold and turbo.. and find out that it actually DOESN'T fit Are you running a spacer?

Does anyone have a spare 280ZX turbo?? or at least the wastegate housing and downpipe?? I need one BAD BAD BAD!!! Please please let me know.. i can send you money within minutes if you need money ASAP

does anyone have a source for these T3 Nissan flanges??? I need to buy a few for my car.. i am going to "attempt" to fab up a downpipe.. we will see how it goes

Hey guys.. I have been debating between the Izuzu NPR intercooler and the Porsche 944 intercooler... Now the 944 intercoolers go for much cheaper on eBay and have a very good flow rating and are Bar and Plate design... However, I don't know about the piping issue and the fittment.. since the 944's intercoolers are very thick. I found these pictures from BumbleZee/WannaBREZ and his 944 setup, but honestly I don't like the intercooler sticking out that much. Anyone have any pics of their 944 intercooler or piping? Thanks!

so um.. anyone? anyone?

Just verified this from a Z31 guy... It is a T3 thank goodness

really?? It BOLTS right up to my stock 280ZX turbo exhuast manifold.. so.. it would have to be a T3.. since the later 300ZX turbo's require a new exhuast manifold for the T25.... damnit.. can anyone verify from the pictures if this is a T3 or T25??