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WoW!! thank you soo much for posting that video!! sweeet! any more video's?! Very very impressive!

yes a 300ZX TPS will work.. as long as it has the 3 wire pigtail coming off of it.. same TPS unit... as for the 6 resistors.. did you try radio shack?! Oh.. BTW don't run megasquirt with a RRFPR or FMU.. MegaSquirt already calculates the FPR from the boost.. so it basically is an electric RRFPR or FMU.. as for the fittings... spend some time at HomeDepot =) I ended up using about 6 different fittings.. all different sizes for the transition to be done... since they don't make a simple transition for our use.

damN!! What settings are you using on MS? are you using Moby's setup or your own?! Also how many pounds of boost on the stock T3???

umm.. yes and no... the 240SX TPS will fit and work fine.. but the mounting brackets.. don't fit... so you can whip something up.. and secure it somehow.. but yes you can.. just find a way to mount it. I'm excited to see this project come together!! How does the MegaSquirt unit look?! did u buy the DIYautotune.com setup?! hehe.. keep us updated!

Ok.... good news guys!! I did a voltometer test for voltage coming out of the battery and I got 13.2v and from the alternator I got 13.5v!! So.. obviously there was something wrong... guess what it was... the damn Fusible Links! one of the wires was melted and the connectors were covered in corrosion! Anyway.. soo that's it! problem solved! Fusible Links! I hate em.. time to get BLUE's maxifuse setup!

thanks GetZ.. when i get home from work today ill start tests with my voltometer

You will need to run the 240SX throttle body or TPS.. The stock 280Z and 280ZX throttle bodies have a TVS or simply an on/off switch for full throttle, cruising, or idle... MegaSquirt needs a potentiometer type TPS which tells the computer if the throttle body is 50% open or 63% open etc to help control the fuel flow! As for the dropping resistors.. here is a direct quote from MobytheVan's MegaSquirt HOW TO / INSTALL GUIDE! In Fact... ZERO have you had a chance to look over Moby's installation guide?! I would highly highly suggest reading it over to get an idea of everything and HOW to install everything! http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=88246

Ok guys.. this is soo weird.. The past few days I have been noticing that my radio randomly shuts off and completly resets all of my settings. Normally it only resets all the settings if I unplug the negative battery cable and plug it back in... I recently installed a new battery according to the specifications, about a week ago. My Voltage guage is reading + 16v ! while my PDA connected to MegaSquirt displays 11.2v while running!!! Now I am assuming the voltage guage reads the voltage coming directly out of the alternator in my 1978 280Z.. so i'm not sure if it then hits a voltage regulator... So is the alternator overcharging then loosing alot of juice somewhere along the circuit?! Then last night when I jumped in my car my Voltage guage read BELOW ZERO, like there was no battery in it, but it started fine! I drove for about a block and my dash lights went completly out and my radio shut off, and then turned back on after like 5 minutes. HELP ME.. can anyone help diagnose my problem?!

No you don't need a spiral cable or anything like that.. See.. they just plug RIGHT in! =)

In order to run MegaSquirt I got rid of my mechanical distributer on my 280Z and bought an 82-83 280ZX turbo distributer, because it has a BUILT in CAS (crank angle sensor). Basically it has only 4 wires to hook up to MegaSquirt, and the MegaSquirt unit completly controlls the fuel in the car AND the spark timing!!! In order to install a 82-83 280ZX turbo distributer, you will need the dizzy, and the oil shaft! Basically the dizzy rotates and spins with the oil shaft, and the N/A shaft has a smaller output and will not fit the ZX turbo dizzy. In order to install this 82-83 distributer i simply removed the old distributer, and removed 4 bolts off of the oil pump. The pump drops right down, and the oil shaft will literally fall out! Then push up the new one (be careful to put it in the same way as the old one to keep the timing correct) and bolt on the new dizzy! As for new sensors, on an older Z engine you will need 2 things... the Air Intake Sensor, and the Coolant Temperature Sensor. The MegaSquirt manual asks for the following: ------------------------- Turbocharged or supercharged engines should use an open-element air temperature sensor for a faster response time. Here are some reported part number equivalents for both the coolant and air temperature sensors GM #25036751 Standard AX1 GP SORENSEN 779-19001 AC DELCO 213-190 NIEHOFF IGNITION TS83631 was DR-136W WELLS SU107 MSD 2320 (includes connector) ----------------------- Autozone should have the wells part number. So all you need is one open element sensor for the air temperature, and the coolant sensor should be closed. (basically a brass cover over the sensor) Check out my CarDomain website and see my pictures on page 13, for some pics of the coolant temperature sensor and how I bolted it on, and the intake sensor on the intercooler piping. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/330795/13 The coolant sensor is actually hiding in one of those pics.. but it's right under the upper radiator hose, threaded into the brass fitting which I all got from Home Depot! and I used all of those fittings in a spare port in the thermostat housing, which was plugged up with a bolt. So it was very easy to install! Ohh yeh.. and with MegaSquirt you DO NOT need a Adjustable Fuel Pressure regulator OR rising rate fuel pressure regulator!! So you can either spend your hard earned money on an AFPR or RRFPR or use the same amount of cash, and buy MegaSquirt which allows you to tune and control nearly every aspect of your car! BTW the MegaSquirt unit is built to handle 22psi! I needed the coolant temp sensor in addition to the stock sensor. In the turbo engine's, the CHT is mounted along the side of the block inbetween i think Cylinder 5 and 6. You can use that sensor, from the turbo block or go out and spend $8 on a new CHT just in case your sensor is faulty. As for the stock ECU, I actually kept ALL of the stock wiring in the car, and I simply spliced into the original harness. I have an Factory Service Manual and wiring diagram so it was easy to find which wires were what. I did put the old ECU in my basement, but I could probably still have it in the car, but it would be useless. The reason I couldn't mount the MS controller in the stock kickpanel location is because I have the relay board attached to the MS unit, and it was too long to fit into the stock location. Someday I plan on moving it, but that might be a while.. the wiring is a mess right now.. LoL Ok.. yeh.. that was alot of typing.. and probably wasn't organized well.. but that's ALL you should need.. and the GM HEI.. =) MegaSquirt Relay board if you choose to make life easy GM HEI Water/Coolant temp sensor Air intake temp sensor Wiring

Zero.. me and Mobythevan (Bryan) got the puppy up and wired and running in the first try in 1 day!! buy a pre-assembled MegaSquirt unit from http://www.DIYautotune.com and the harness if you can afford it.. and swap it in.. using Moby's settings.. and it will fire up right away! You can do it MAX in 3 days.. 1 day if you have a buddy

ohh man.. what a mess.. MegaSquirt would be soo much easier!! But great job so far!

wow!! Very nice numbers!

ohh and i'm running an N/A fuel pump on my turbo swap.. and running 10psi.. runs fine

hmm it could be running WAY to rich and it's choking on itself.. is there black smoke?! Check the electrical connections.. I know I know.. youll probably look right over it.. but try some electrical cleaner or brake cleaner and a toothbrush and get all that icky green tarnish that built up on the connections over the years. If it's too rich.. adjust the AFM and see if it runs better http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/afm/index.html

nope.. not necessary... you can use the stock FPR and MegaSquirt will do the rest and supply the fuel you need

you know I was watching some video of my and my buddy messin around in my car BEFORE i did the turbo swap and everything was stock.. and i hit the PAUSE button and looked at my guage.. it's a little under 3/4 during the summer!! With MegaSquirt I had to add a new coolant temp sensor, and my PDA displays around 190 degrees cruising and 200 degrees under HARD driving and it will shoot up to 215 by the most with hard driving.. so now i'm not that worried... if it's ALWAYS above 3/4 or close the 250 degrees than you have a problem.. I think we are just freakn out over nothin

look around for auctions like this http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5791244377&category=38331&rd=1 1 fast Z bought two PDA's over eBay now for under $15 a piece!

I don't have a laptop either... Go out to eBay and buy a PDA for only $10 plus shipping

that would be a no of my knowledge.. there are a few with roots type blowers... but no centrifugal blowers =( the cost to fabricate the necessary components is not very efficient... with that money put into a turbo motor you can have one hell of a turbo car!! Think about it... turbo motor $500, plus new T3/T04e $600, big intercooler $300, 3" downpipe and exhuast $400, intercooler piping and MegaSquirt $270 to control fuel and spark.. That's around $2,100 .. and the Vortech Centrifugal blowers are $2,400 plus you have to fabricate the stuff for it.. nahh... go turbo

awsome!! Looking good so far! screw the stock harness... build a new one and go MegaSquirt!! Soo easy to wire!

Yeh 1-4 and 2-3 ... as for the turbo's... would you have 2 seperate downpipes and exhuast pipes which met up somewhere along the exhuast line or run dual exhuast?! also are you going to run these turbo's in sequence?! or simply a non sequential turbo setup?!

I put a fan in front of the radiator and behind the intercooler.. works great.. Ford Taurus electric fan

what's wrong with a single turbo?! easier to fix.. cheaper to maintain.. and you can run 1 big one for high RPM boost.. or a medium sized one for well.. mid RPM boost?! Seems kinda pointless except for the WoW factor

i am running about 190-200 degree with a flushed system under boost.. and with a Ford Taurus electric fan at it's high speed setting... it occasionally shoots up to 215 degrees in traffic in 100 degree days at 6,000 feet up high..