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proxlamus©
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Posts posted by proxlamus©
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something isnt right here...
stock head with no porting...
is there porting done to the intake manifold?!
Your running MSnS.. what are you running for ignition?!
i feel like something is missing...
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is it really that difficult?
Test fit dash cap, do minor trim with sandpaper or scissors if needed
Clean original dash from dirt and oil
Apply adhesive
Apply dash cap
Put some books or heavy weights on the dash till the adhesive dries
problem solved
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more pics please!!
what paint code did he go with?
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um...
FWD application?
or are you looking for a rear mounted transaxle?
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so you go out and dyno a stock turbo...
when you havent even gone out and dyno'd your own damn ZX you built for years and years?
your killn me Yasin
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yep.. paint dept at home depot!
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wow.. products dont look too bad!
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as long as your not swapping out the BUCKETS your fine..
you can switch the headlight housing and bulb to whatever side you want
there is no difference, so there is no way to tell
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im down! they look great!
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Just curious if anyone has any experience or seen the use of some medium expansion high density foam inside the frame rails?
I'm about to weld on my bad dog frame rails and I'm considering drilling small holes and filling it with foam. Strength and seal the inside's from moisture?
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hughdogz..
the 1st two pictures I posted above are un-touched! I just cleaned the surface prior to welding.. but you can see the oxidation around the welds.. so they are untouched.
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This is a great picture that shows different heat/voltage settings...
the one right in the middle is a lot of heat.. but it gave me full penetration on the back side.
Jon the point of my last post is to show that you can weld aluminum with the kit and a 110v mig.
With proper pre-heating and messing with the voltage its obvious I can get better penetration. I just wanted to show that in 4 measly tries I can run a basic weld with aluminum.
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Well guess what!
The parts came in.. very easy to install.. I bought a small bottle of Argon.. I've yet to bunch up the wire or anything..
so $63 for the kit and $144 for gas and a 20 cu bottle.
Here are some pics...
These are my first 3 attempts.. ever at MIG'ing aluminum... without messing with the voltage and the wire speed
You can obviously see some were cold.. the other towards the back went a little hot towards the end.. which means I should of moved faster.
oh and this is my 4th attempt.
Oh yeh.. the aluminum was NOT pre-heated
Seriously guys.. the 4th time I ever squeezed the trigger and I have fairly good results.. 4th time!
With some practice I know I'll be running really nice beads soon
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im still down! im doin the body work now.. so im ready for one asap!
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great job on the body work!
i like the color!
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I guess im just being really confident..
Miller and Lincoln are BIG welding companies.. I don't know why they would sell and advertise a product that doesn't work.. they seem to know what they are doing.
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Ruiz..
there are A LOT of different factors..
Figures release from automotive companies is called BHP (brake horse power)
this is a figure based on the SAE standards.. that tests the engine in optimum temperatures, in perfect conditions, with a bare naked engine... I mean no power steering, no flywheel, no fan, no power accessories running.. nothing.. its literally crank horsepower in perfect conditions.
A good universal figure is 20%. I've always been skeptical since every car is different.. no 2 machines are identical. On top of that FWD will have less drivetrain loss because the transmission and differential are all in one, with no super long driveshaft to lose power in. RWD figures are next on the list.. with more drivetrain loss then FWD, but less then AWD... AWD cars have to transfer the power to the front transaxle, then a driveshaft, then another differential..
the same car with 18" wheels will put out less HP and Torque then the same car with 13" wheels and small tires on a rolling dyno. EVERYTHING makes a difference... everything.
Also here in colorado at nearly 6,000 ft above sea level.. the performance of a car is terribly sacrificed. during my studies of aviation in college we learned a general rule of thumb to cut nearly 15% of the available power at 8,000 ft above sea level. thats 15% freakin percent, in addition to the general 20% powertrain loss.
Thats a 35% loss at this altitude... so that advertised 270bhp nissan 350z actually puts out 175.5 wheel horsepower in PERFECT conditions.
the pressure in the atmosphere, the air temperature.. air density.. dew point.. everything makes a difference..
some days in the summer we have a density altitude of nearly 9,500 ft in July.. which means im physically standing at an altitude of 5,200 ft but the air density on a hot day is similar to 9,500 ft because the air is so thin. now increase that figure to nearly 40-45% power loss.
Catch my drift?
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you know i spent about an hour looking at the Lincoln welders.. reading every box.. the instructions.. everything while I was at work today lol..
Lincoln says it can weld up to 12 ga. ALUMINUM with a 110v MIG. The total range is 22 ga to 12 ga aluminum
Trust me I'm absorbing the info in this thread.. but if both lincoln and miller are advertising their 110v MIG's to weld up to 12 ga aluminum.. why would they false advertise? Miller even has great how to video's on youtube!
Im going for it.. the part is still on its way.. but if the box, the instructions, and even the lift panel on my welder shows I can weld up to 12 ga aluminum.. damnit i'm going to do it
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I liked the Solstice!
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*PS* your still missing a turbo
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wow.. look how high the car flew up.. holy cow
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"I'm black"
Could be the car saying this?
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PDK fabrication sells complete fiberglass dash for $400
Fits 240 & 260Zwill fit the 280Z but won't fit the 280Z center console
A dash that is an exact duplicate in both size and shape of the original. Made of fiberglass for the serious racer. Weighs only 7 Pounds. That's a 30+lb savings. Air vents & Glove box has been eliminated. Center section has been plated smooth for any application you prefer. Heater controls can be inserted into the dash with proper fabrication. Can be mounted with or without a roll cage. Fabrication is needed to mount dash (mounting hardware not included)
Aftermarket gauges are needed.
5" for the large gauges & 2 5/8" for the small gauges.
FGD-3000
SPECIAL PRICE
$400.00 (Plus shipping )
(regular price $450.00)
Good luck though!
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Just outta curiousity why didnt you *stitch* weld the rails on?
Roof skin body panel Carbon fiber
in Body Kits & Paint
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updates??
or is this dead?