Jump to content
HybridZ

proxlamus©

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    2145

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

 Content Type 

Posts posted by proxlamus©

    Wilwood versus 4x4 vented .. pro's vs con's

    in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis

    Posted

    No I didn't have the vented setup. The set was on my car since 1995 and I got ride of it in the last couple of months. I could warp the rotors within 3 months. Been able to do that on every Z I have ever owned.....LOL Couple of 100+ blast and jamming on the brakes to make a quick turn over time takes it's toll on those small rotors. ( Living in the boonies has it's pluses LOL) I went with the drilled slotted Willwood setup on my car and I am injoying every minute of them. Got'em broke in good the other day and jumped on the brakes to make a quick left. I had to let off because I was stopping before the turn LOL and I wasn't even on them good. :)

     

     

    I forgot to add..... Best money I have ever spent on the car!!!!!!!! I hate :( crappy brakes.... Ever overheated your brakes to where you had NONE!!!!!!! I have ONCE..... Never again.

     

     

    Ah that makes more sense.. I am running the non vented setup right now and its terrible.

     

    This thread is discussing the vented 4x4 setup vs the wilwoods from azzcar.

    Wilwood versus 4x4 vented .. pro's vs con's

    in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis

    Posted

    So i've been heavily debating which brake setup I should go with on my baby..

     

    Arizona Z car's Wilwood 4 pistons brake setup $789 + proportioning valve

     

    - or -

     

    Toyota 4x4 VENTED calipers and 300zx rotors $360

     

     

     

    I am trying to justify the price.. I would like some more help!

     

    Toyota 4x4 vented setup

     

    Pros

    - Cheaper

    - Parts and rebuilds are cheap and over the counter

    - 4 pistons

    - Cheap and easy to find pads

     

    Cons

    - Cast iron?/steel? calipers

    >> added weight

    >> retains heat longer which is bad

    - smaller rotors

    - they dont look as cool

     

     

    Arizona Z car Wilwood setup

     

    Pros

    - Look amazing

    - Weight Savings with aluminum calipers

    - Better heat dissipation with aluminum calipers

    - Bigger rotors

    - 4 piston

     

    Cons

    - Expensive

    - NEED a proportioning valve

    - Replacement parts and rebuilds are order only and slightly higher costs

    - Pads are order only and also slightly higher in cost

     

     

     

    These are things I can think of off the top of my head and I'm sure there are plenty of other pro's and con's im hoping you guys can point out!

     

    I need help understanding that they are both 4 pistons.. with the same pad material and the same amount of braking force from the 280zx master cylinder.. shouldn't the car stop the same?!

    CCD Cam for sideview mirror to reduce drag

    in Windtunnel Test Results and Analysis

    Posted

    No offense.. but your driving a 30 year old sports car designed to be cheap and affordable...

     

    The car was not built for aerodynamics.. I severely doubt changing the mirrors would provide any beneficial effect to the performance of your car. In fact this would hinder the safety of your car. On top of that your spending money on something that can be truly beneficial.

     

    We all know what can be done cheaply to slightly improve the aerodynamics.. but I think the mirror idea is pointless.

     

     

    Sorry man

    Z32 Tranny Install Writeup

    in L-Series

    Posted

    Aww man!

     

    Remember i sent ya a PM saying you will need to do some slight tapping on the actual transmission tunnel to fit the adapter. Either that or cut off the corner of the bracket with an angle grinder or something.

     

    I didnt realize the bracket touched the tunnel untill I finally raised the unit in place.

     

    Like I mentioned the unit was a quick prototype... but works with a bit of massaging. The machine shop didn't charge you much did they?! I feel bad now

    DIY - Steel workbench! $105

    in Fabrication / Welding

    Posted

    I added some new cross beams for more support!

     

     

    now it's rock solid!! I was going to add a bar across the rear of the bench but its sooooo sturdy as it is! why bother! lol

     

    0208091304.jpg

     

     

    I also added a worklight, 5" vice and threw some crap under the bench... I know its a mess!!

     

    0209091142.jpg

     

    All she needs now is PAINT!

     

    oh well

    DIY - Steel workbench! $105

    in Fabrication / Welding

    Posted

    Well I finally bit the bullet and decided to build a workbench!!

     

     

    I was pondering the idea of what the hell I could use to build the frame.. keep in mind im cheap.. very very cheap and I hate spending money.

     

    I currently work at Home Depot until I finish up my pilot ratings and hopefully get hired on someday from someone.. and one day.. it dawned on me. pallet racking! I'm standing in a warehouse full of it!

     

    I didn't want to steel the racking and get fired.. so I tried craigslist. Someone was closing out a warehouse and was selling 2x3 cross beams at 112" inches long. I figured I could grab 4 or 5 beams and start chopping them up. The guy only wanted $10 per beam! 5000 pounds capacity each.. it'll do.

     

    The next step was figuring out the table top.. i could grab some OSB.. but I want to weld.. so I found some 3/16" thick steel for $60 + $5 labor to cut it.

     

    I don't want to post my measurements because everyone is different.. we are all different heights and have different size workshops/garages. But my particular bench is 28"x60". Its perfect for me.

     

    Pallet racking laid out and i'm beginning to cut it all up

     

    0203091347.jpg

     

    Table top mock-up and supports

     

    0203091357.jpg

     

    Legs and plate steel to bolt onto a caster or keep free standing

     

    0203091612.jpg

     

    Table top and supports tack welded together somewhat. This is in the early stages. I had to grind off the powder coating

     

    0203091612a.jpg

     

     

    The bench is not yet finished. It's a bit wobbly so I need to add some cross bracing or square it up some.. needs to be a bit stronger.

     

    0203091749.jpg

     

    Anyway... I need to do a little more cutting.. grind down all the paint and paint it black.. and weld on new cross bracing... then she should be complete!

     

    I'll add a tube for holding my MIG gun, attach a vise and some other random crap..

     

    but here ya go.. $105.

    How to use MegaSquirts boost control for $24

    in MegaSquirt

    Posted

    You know I think the biggest problem is my 021u code.

     

     

    I tried switching once to 029 and I don't know what happened but no matter what the settings my car ran like absolute crap. I couldn't figure it out. So if 021u works.. it works lol.

     

    Maybe I'll try to update again over the next few weeks. Then maybe the unit will work!!

    You Tube blocked my video

    in Non Tech Board

    Posted

    i went to a linkin park concert when I was younger and was taking pictures and taking video clips of some songs..

     

    the security guards took my memory card!! I couldn't believe it!

     

     

    I dunno what it is.. but linkin park and metallica freak out when anyone uses their music. wtf

    Yet another Rear control arm design

    in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis

    Posted

    First, let the part cool completely after welding.

     

    Use a torch with a rosebud tip and get a 900F temperature crayon (Tempilstik). Mark each side of each welded joint with the crayon 1" from the weld. Use the torch to heat a joint until the crayon marks melt. Cover the joint with a heat blanket or something to slow the cooling process down. Proceed to the next joint. If you're really anal, heat all the joints equally and at the same time before letting the part cool down.

     

    What you're trying to accomplish is to relieve any stress buildup and resulting distortion from the welding process.

     

    EDIT: Before you go through all of this, you can take the part out of the welding jig and see how much distortion exists. If its just a little bit, I probably wouldn't worry about stress relieving the part.

     

     

    Is there anything wrong with heat quencing?! Rather then allowing the part to gradually cool down.. why not dunk the part in a bath of oil. This would work harden the part dramatically.

     

    or should suspension parts avoid work hardening?!

×
×
  • Create New...