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proxlamus©
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Posts posted by proxlamus©
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I received the part...
and unbelievably..
the part bolts RIGHT up to the factory speedometer cable!!
I'm stunned.. something actually worked the first time I hooked it up!!
Excellent excellent news!!
Now I can use the factory speedometer! yeppie!!
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well.. i defin over thought that one
ughm.. lets pretend I didnt say what I said
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*brake line kit* is the proper spelling.. might want to change the title so in the future people can find the thread using proper spelling.
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I've noticed some of the schools valedictorians and incredibly talented engineers and unbelievably gifted individuals have no "street sense"
I've always been blown away how dumb and retarded they can be. Even the simplest tasks in life and everyday common sense occurrences seem close to impossible.
Book smart but that's it. They be street stupid ha.
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sounds like Acceleration Enrichment's possibly?
I also have slight issues with my car stumbling too..
are you TPS or MAP accel tuned?
I dont think it would be the turbo at all.. if you had a turbine jet engine I would say its a symptom of compressor stall.. but in an automotive application this doesn't apply
from : WikipediaA compressor stall is a situation of abnormal airflow resulting from a stall of the aerofoils within the compressor. Stall is found in dynamic compressors, particularly axial compressors, as used in jet engines and turbocharged reciprocating engines.
Compressor stalls result in a loss of compressor performance, which can vary in severity from a momentary engine power drop (occurring so quickly it is barely registered on engine instruments) to a complete loss of compression (compressor surge) necessitating a reduction in the fuel flow to the engine.
Symptoms in a turbocharger in a recip engine are not as wild as jet engine stalls.. but a sudden surge or "stall" in performance is applicable
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uh oh .. no muffler?? especially in a stripped interior Z?
going to be NOISEY!!!!
Keep in mind Austin is going to school full time and the car is kept at another house.. give him a break
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I've read so many posts with issues regarding the Wildwood (AZZcar brake setup) ...
are these even worth it or should I be looking elsewhere for a better brake package?
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i take it I am the only one who enjoys the sound of flutters??
reminds me so much of WRC cars... since they don't use BOV's or bypass valves all you hear is turkey calls.. mmm
yummy
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Dave,
he is looking for a Z33 adapter... oops!!
Only Z32 transmission kits and adapters are available.. there are no Z33's that I know of.
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http://www.zccjdm.com sells tow hooks for Z's!! $34!!
http://www.zccjdm.com/catalog.php/azcarbum/dt55266/pd1761636/240Z_FRONT_REAR_TIE_DOWN_KIT_
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I am running an open 3.54 R180 from the '78 automatic drivetrain
Fuel > http://www.putfile.com/pic/7937112
Spark > http://www.putfile.com/pic/7937114
AFR's under boost remained from 11.2-12.3 AFR in all gears.. no detonating
In regards to shifting, I would would at 6,200 RPM
I just realized that my rear shocks were set to (3) out of 5 on the tokico illuminas.. which might have been too stiff!!
My launch consisted of a 3,000 RPM, no brake or clutch applied... light turned green and i feathered the clutch and throttle for an attempt of minimizing wheel-spin. My e-brake is temporarily disabled lol.. and I was too nervous to try to hold the foot brake and slip the clutch my first few runs.
3 runs.. with almost an hour and a half of waiting between each run in the staging lanes.. it sucked.
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I didnt post my reaction time =)
I defin stayed away from the water box.... but I did clean the tires in the dry
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Tonight was my first night ever going out to any sort of drag strip..
I had a chance to do 3 runs.. it was at Bandimere Speedway which is around 5,000 ft up in altitude..
Here are my specs :
stock un-touched F54 block P90 head
Schnieder cam .488 lift 260 duration
2mm headgasket
Holset HY35W turbocharger
MegaSquirt n Spark extra
Isuzu Diesal NPR intercooler
2.5" intercooler piping
4" downpipe 3" straight through exhuast
Tokico Illumina 5 way adjustable struts
Arizona Z car springs 205f/225r
205/60 front 225/60 rears - Yokohoma YK520 tires (26psi in the rear)
ACT Stage II clutch and pressure plate
Fidanza aluminum flywheel
Z32 transmission
Im assuming my shitty tires are to blame 5%.. but overall I SUCK at driving. Boost was 15psi (at 5,000 ft which is roughly 12psi at sea level)
I was expecting 13's maybe 12's.. but damn!!
60' - 2.468
330 - 6.386
1/8 - 9.472
MPH - 80.86
1000 - 12.037
E.T. - 14.204
MPH - 108.31
With such a high trap speed I was hoping to get more out... I dunno someone bench race me!! I would think the car would be much quicker!
I tried launching at 3,000 RPM and being nice to the clutch.. but I spin through 1st and also in 2nd. ugh. Shifting was done at 6,200 RPM
Thanks Bobby for filming me!
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hmm bit of a low pressure day and hot temps!!
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Problem solved!!
I ordered 2 new NISSAN bushings.. and a Shifter collar/support rod !!
Now the shifter doesn't have any play at all!! The support rod is the same diameter as the bolt now so voila!!
The 2nd pic shows the bushings and rod installed!! Notice the white bushing above the shifter? The white one is the Fidanza unit... notice how large the hole is?!? no wonder the bolt was moving around!!
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Problem solved!!
I should of guessed it..
BAD HEI! its the 3rd one since January!! but another bad GM HEI ignition module.
Good thing I have a lifetime warranty lol
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oh man cast aluminum is tough to weld.. especially since casting doesn't ensure clean material.. so the welds are nasty!
I ended up using a thick thick filler rod and a bit of extra heat.. only thing I could do =(
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I placed my order this morning!!
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Awesome!
I gathered all the parts at a junkyard today!
$60 bux! ahhh! pricey pricey!!
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I have been reading the megamanual a few times but I couldn't find a definite answer...
with MS1/extra and 2.2 PCB board.. and EDIS 6 ignition... do I need the VB921/BIP373 coil driver?
None of the EDIS wiring 2.2 PCB board specify if I need it!!
EDIT - this might of answered my question
EDIS is a particularly easy way to replace distributor ignitions when retrofitting older engines with a modern computer programmable ignition, but we now recommend directly driving the coil packs from the MS ECU using the VB921 FET's. This does away with the EDIS module, so all thats needed is the 36-1 wheel, a VR sensor and the coil packsSo if I run the EDIS module I do not need the VB921/BIP373..
I can have MS ECU control the coils using VB921/BIP373 by throwing out the EDIS 6 module and using just the coil packs and VR?
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I like the little VG's on the roof for the engine's intake!
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according to the logs and what Megatune shows.. the intake and coolant sensors are reading like normal.. no spikes..
The AFR's are also normal.. the car idles around 13.5 AFR ... then the tachometer shows wild readings.. the AFR still shows 13.5 AFR.. then its like the fuel/spark both get cut off at once.. so the AFR goes to 20.1/O2 which is the calibrated O2 value without the engine running.
Im considering going to EDIS now lol
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thank you for the suggestions guys..
I wonder if there is a way to test the dizzy other then the shaft play?
I dont have a spare '83 dizzy so I will look around on ebay and the junk yards..
its very very strange this is happening.. and such a gradual event
I also think its bizarre it only happens at idle!! The car pulls like crazy in every gear!!
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Forrest...
Since I last drove the car the only issue was the clutch/transmission which I have changed.
I will check the play in the dizzy.. i'm just confused how all of a sudden the play in the dizzy would play a factor.
Z32 transmission install .. number 3
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
I'm posting this in ALL 3 threads regarding the Z32 transmission swap
We can still use the FACTORY speedometer with the Z32/RB25 5-speed transmission swap!!
Mike Rowe was able to find a mechanical speedometer pinion assembly (Nissan part number 32702-02G17) that came from a Nissan Hardbody (D21) truck... with the manufacture years (1986.5-1994)
This replaces the electric speedometer output.. and converts it to a mechanical speedometer output!!
Incredibly.. the speedometer cable bolts right up to the new pinion assembly and it works!!
I think it cost me around $46 from Nissan =)