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proxlamus©

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Posts posted by proxlamus©

  1. the problem is getting worse!!

     

    I can drive the car in any gear untill I pop the car in nuetral and let it idle! it dies almost immediatly now!! The car was able to run for almost 2 min before it died... and the problem is getting worse and now barely running for a few seconds.

     

     

     

    I am running a '83 distributer.. HEI ignition and MS1 extra 021u (old i know). The fuel pressure at the rail stil reads 38psi!! I was assuming it was a clogged filter or pump or something.. ah!

     

    what the devil is going on!!

  2. Im having problems with Megasquirt.. or my car I can't figure it out yet.

     

     

    The car has good fuel pressure.. 38psi at idle.. and all of the settings in Megasquirt seem fine..

     

    the symptoms I'm having is the car will start and run for a few seconds and then my tachometer bounces from 1000 RPM to 0 RPM a few times. Then the tachometer reads 0 RPM and the car continues to run for about 2-3 seconds then the car dies.

     

    When I have Megatune running it shows a fairly constant RPM... So the cars tachometer reads 0 RPM but Megatune shows 900 RPM until the car dies after 2-3 seconds.

     

    I attached a LOG of the event..

     

    On Megasquirts "Tuning your Megasquirt" in the instruction manual states

    If the engine starts and runs for more than 20 seconds or so, then stalls, you need to adjust your warm-up enrichment bins. As you adjust your warm-up bins, you may need to re-adjust the afterstart, since these interact (i.e., a larger warm-up value may require a shorter or smaller afterstart enrichment).

     

    Now I have tried numerous settings on the Warm-up enrichment bins. I don't know why all of a sudden I am having this issue. The car ran great for over 3 years now with the SAME settings!! The only thing on the car I have changed was the transmission!!

     

    By the way the car runs fine and pulls hard.. I'm only having issues at IDLE!

    graph1_thumb.jpg

  3. This is to show that a turbo swap can be a very cost effective path to decent horsepower... or as I have discovered in budgeting my turbo build... a fast road to bankruptcy. Your choice... how fast do you want to spend??

     

    EFI Turbo Swap

     

    - Complete L28ET with harness 350.00

    - Fuel Pump 100.00

    - Misc Hoses and electrical 100.00

     

    - Total $550.00 -- 175 - 180HP

    That is about the same power I'd be making if I spent twice that on a N/A motor that would have very little potential left without major modifications.

     

    Immediate Upgrades

     

    - MSA Downpipe 100.00

    - Intercooler and piping 300.00

     

    - Total $400.00

    With about a weekend's worth of work, I am now easily in the 200+ HP range.

     

    Future Upgrades

     

    - SDS EM-4 6F 1700.00 Megasquirt ~$400

    - 2 Bar MAP 80.00 MS comes with a 3 bar

    - TPS 90.00 $5 on ebay or a junkyard

    - Fuel Pump relay 30.00 ?? im still using the stock fuel system

    - 60mm TB 50.00 junkyard for cheap

    - Taylor 10.4mm plug wires 130.00 dont need them

    - Fuel Injectors 200.00 (estimate - haven't decided) 440cc injectors from a Supra.. i got mine for $30 on ebay

    - Fuel 120.00 ???

    - T3/T4 turbo (ebay) 200.00 Holset HY35 $300 on ebay

    - Harmonic damper 90.00 stock is fine

    - Aluminum radiator 460.00 stock is fine

    - Electric fan 150.00 Like Warren said, Ford Taurus fan $25

    - Fan relay 30.00 explained above

    - Centerforce II clutch 295.00 I love my ACT

    - Oil cooler 200.00 I dont run one

     

    - Total $3825.00

    and round it up for those random little parts I didn't think of...

    $4000.00 and 300+ HP

     

    So, in total, I am left with a screaming 300+ HP motor for under $5000

     

    EDIT: You will also want to save money for things like boost gauges, AFR meters, etc... they are quite useful... lol

     

    Wideband is a must!! ~$199. Boost gauge is like $50

     

     

    It can be done for MUCH cheaper... like Bo and Warren stated above

  4. October 2nd, 2008

     

    - 1947 the FIA establishes Formula One racing

    - 1948 the first races at Watkins Glen NY

     

     

     

     

    I am signed up to the history channels "this day in history AUTOMOTIVE" daily text alerts.. which is annoying at 6am.. but interesting stuff!!! I'll update a lot =)

  5. The Nissan Navara is a Nissan Hardbody (D21) truck... with the manufacture years (1986.5-1994)

     

    This is the list I have for all parts labeled 32702.. i unfortunately can not find the "02g17"

     

    http://www.courtesyparts.com/kb_search_result.php?keywords=[32702]+(d21&cPath=3178_3179_3244_3257

     

    I'm trying to assume.. I need one from a manual transmission, between the years of 1990-1994 when the 300zx was manufactured. (i know Z32's were 90-96.. but the D21 was only manufactured. till 1994). Otherwise all the parts listed are for the KA24 or the VG30.

     

    So now I am narrowing this down to a Manual Transmission VG30... which I can only find this part..

     

    http://www.courtesyparts.com/32702-pinion-assy-speedometer-truck-d21-1990-1992-kc2wdvg30emtf5-1988-1989-tkcsevg302wdmtf5-19865-1987-p-115916.html?cPath=3178_3179_3244_3257&

  6. Well I bought a BRAND new Fidanza short throw shifter.. with the new bushings...

     

    but if Brian is correct.. then Ill need to make new ones or order them.

     

    I just called nissan.. I am ordering new bushings anyway.. its $8. I will let ya guys know when the parts arrive on monday if it fixed anything!

  7. Ohh more info!!

     

    I have been having issues with the Z32 shifter with it flopping around! Basically the Shifter has 2 bushings and a bolt slides right through them. Well the bushings are larger then the diameter of the bolt so its kinda floppy, unless you tighten it down. The problem is during hard shifts the shifter moves around on the bushing and does not allow the car to shift into certain gears depending on where it moved off to.

     

    When I bought the transmission it was a naked transmission, so I built a shifter mount and new shifter.

     

    I was missing the "tube-control rod support bushing". Part number 34556. This tube goes inbetween the two bushings!! NO WONDER why my shifter is goofy!!

     

    http://www.courtesyparts.com/300zx-z32-1990-1996/genuine-nissan-parts/power-train/341-transmission-control-linkage/-c-882_883_953_971.html

     

    http://www.courtesyparts.com/kb_search_result.php?keywords=[34556]+(z32&cPath=882_883_953_971

     

    341A01.png

  8. zhopeful..

     

    I live in Aurora CO.. and I have a Z32 transmission swap in my Z.. you can check it out if you would like and see how she drives..

     

    Adapters are still available through A. Hoke performance

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