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proxlamus©
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Posts posted by proxlamus©
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seems fine to me!
With some nice sealed ducting there shouldnt be any reason why you would have heating problems.
Ducting is important to prevent the air just hitting the intercooler and going "around" and going through the holes on the radiator support and under/below the car. this would allow the air to flow through the intercooler and keep the radiator cool.
By the way many many many people have a setup almost identical to yours.. and dont have any iissues.
Good work so far!
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your right Jon!
I read your FAQ and built it after a good read!
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why would it be horrible??
LOADS of torque!!!
ok its heavy.. and big.. but other than that?
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nice!
Ive raced a 360 and 348ts!
fun cars to race! =)
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yeh I have new hardware under the car now. But i used a old headbolt for lining everything up and for demo =)
Cost me $1.29 total.
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After doing some searching... I determined Cliftons ingenious solution to tearing rubber differential mounts was the best option for me.
I just welded 2 tabs to the mount and they hung below the cross member. I drilled a hole.. inserted a bolt and nut.. and sandwiched a rubber fuel hose in between the bolt and cross member to avoid vibration and noise.
Pictures speak for themselves.
The Ron Tyler mount was an attractive idea.. but I dont have a close supplier of 3/16" steel anywhere close to me.
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Coolant Return!
Coolant Feed
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this is AMAZING! good work man!
PS.. who is riding the tranny with the hat?
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great color.
I would recommend turning the wheel the opposite direction so we can see the WHEELS and not just the tires and tension rods =) creates a better picture
BTW i have a set of those wheels in the basement... i used to love em!
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http://www.britishv8.org/British-V8-Back-Issues.htm this link shows TONS of articles in modding the Buick/Olds (rover) V8.
BTW ... i dont think these things can put out more than 280rwhp. hmm
can i squeeze any more power out of a small v8?
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http://www.britishv8.org/Articles/GM-215-Engine-Identification.htm
info on finding a good ol buick 215 engine
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What you are describing there is backspin. This is due to the fact that your BOV is not sensitive enough to open with that amount of pressure differential. You are, in effect, running without a BOV for that SPECIFIC circumstance; thus the flutter. What the OP is describing is SURGE which is an entirely different animal. His turbo is just too big for the application. He is off the left side of the compressor map. You can only eliminate that by putting a smaller hotside on the turbo. The engine is demanding too LITTLE air for that pressure ratio and shaft speed. It will damage a turbo much faster than the "stiff BOV spring" thing.
wizard.. I am not experiencing a backspin .. the surge is slowing the turbo down...
a turbo w backspin would be severely damaged
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that is a terrible picture..
cool idea.. but the intercooler is getting NO air.. only hot rising air from the manifolds...
why oh why?
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Do solid diffy mounts have a slight vibration and noise or is it a fairly noticable noise?!
i just installed a solid differential mount and the car still vibrates like a bad rubber mount.
Im assuming now the ujoint is bad on the driveshaft.. but just asking..
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZNAEVC4yLsQ&NR=1
Hmmm interesting animation of a Ferrari V8.. notice the dual plane crank?! I know the F430 has a single plane crank...
but maybe this is the type of V8 used in the F40?!
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formula one and older WRC cars use to use this setup...
Keep in mind they are NOT allowed to use a blow off valve according to the FIA. They are allowed a Pop off Valve to prevent overboosting.
Soo.. you would NOT be running a BOV in this setup
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what do you mean very very low AE pulsewidths?
can you shoot us a screenshot or type out the values?
such as the 2v/s, 4v/s, 8v/s 15v/s??
Thanks!
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i miss that gnose
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Thanks guys!
First off the wiring sucks ass. Last time i did it years ago was terrible..
in addition the alternator was OVERCHARGING and had a bad regulator.
Problem solved!
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oh me me! rdritlei @ mscd (no spaces)
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i watched a video about those individual EGT monitors in my aircraft performance class! i wondered why cars didnt have those!
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also... every turbo will flutter to a point.. if I "floor" it at 2,500 RPM.. and let the turbo spool a little bit and run 1psi or 2psi and let off. the BOV does not open even really loose.. and causes a small quiet flutter. ever listen to a car with HUGE turbo?! it will naturally flutter slightly.
What will damage it is flutter from high boost.. like running 15psi letting off and hearing a LOUD flutter
Blow off valves will also flutter when set to a very light setting they will open and close quickly.
In addition external wastegates will flutter as well.. same as the BOV with it opening and closing
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Help!
I am getting 16v at the battery terminal of the ALTERNATOR and 11.7v at the battery... wiring seems to be fine and all fuses are a-ok.
Car is a 1978 Datsun 280z.. and I am running a Z31 300zx alternator.. so i believe its an internal regulator..
Any ideas?
Got my new motor today :)
in Non Tech Board
Posted
*shivers*
that poor 260z.