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CRAracer05

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Everything posted by CRAracer05

  1. CRAracer05
    Started stripping the body down to bare steel last weekend. Progress is slow, but the aircraft stripper is still faster than the soda blaster I bought. My game plan has changed now to strip everything I can with air craft stripper then hit all the tight areas with the soda blaster. Started finding other surprises as I started stripping the paint off too.
  2. CRAracer05
    Rockers came from Black Dragon, and the rocker/lower quarter panels came from MSA. Front fenders are from Black Dragon as well.
  3. CRAracer05
    Ripped my first head apart and it looks like'll need to replace the rockers instead of having them resurfaced. Schneider said the cam should clean up thought, but ultimately they will have to see it in person.
  4. CRAracer05
    Picked up an early 280zx 5-speed for build. Also this weekend I built a cart to wheel my uni-body around. In the next week or two I'm going to be Soda-Blasting the shell down to bare metal and I need to roll the shell out into my driveway. I got the wood for free from some steel skids at work and the the castors from harbor freight for $15.00 each. I was surprised at how well the shell actually rolled around.
  5. CRAracer05
    That sounds really good, there is no rasp at all. It kind of reminds of a 350z exhaust tone.
  6. CRAracer05
    Where are you guys buying your OBX LSD's at now a days?
  7. CRAracer05
    Fenders are from Black Dragon, the rest of the repair panels came from either MSA or Tabco. The floor pans and replacemnet frame rails came from Zedd findings and the reinforcement rails came from bad dog parts.
  8. CRAracer05
    Bought a couple parts this week after selling off the flares and harness from my parts car. I got a MSA ZG flares, and their Z432 style spoiler. I also ordered a set Zcardepot knock-off fender mirrors.
  9. CRAracer05
    I am in the same boat with my 280z has rust everywhere in all the hard to get to areas. Keep up the good work, you are starting to pass me up on my progress.
  10. CRAracer05
    I guess I am just going to go with a regrind to make sure I don't get a "soft" cam. They are cheaper anyway, and Schneider admitted they are a better metal than their new cores.
  11. CRAracer05
    First I have heard of this? Schneider said they can regrind my factory cam and it is a better material than what they make new cams out of. I was planning on going with the 284-92F cam after talking with them this week. Still not sure on whether to go new or a regrind though.
  12. CRAracer05
    Any opinions on the two Schneider cams am either the 284-92F or a 290F? I read a couple places that the L-series engines really like the split cams such as the 284-92F, but the 290F is more common.
  13. CRAracer05
    That's the ticket.
  14. CRAracer05
    Not sure either, but my plan is to get a matchbox dizzy and have it re-curved. I try not to do that anymore, or I will be tempted to just buy a newer car that doesn't need as much.
  15. CRAracer05
    All the parts yo have shown are basic car audio supplies. I look online or go to your nearest stereo shop they will be able to get you all the parts shown in the picture.
  16. CRAracer05
    I talked to Advanced Distributors and he recommended just going with a re-curved points distributor, or a matchbox second if I really want an electronic ignition. I haven't really heard of anyone running a re-curved points distributor?
  17. CRAracer05
    Anymore I have so much stuff going that if I don't make lists like this I forget things. I have been reading the cooling mod thread, and just made it to the end tonight. I saved Tony D's summary on page 23 to a word document, and I also saved the photo of the block port where the plug is to be installed, and the photo of where to drill the head. I will at least do this mod on #5 & #6. My power levels shouldn't be high enough to do #3 & #4, but compression will be high so at least doing #4 might not be a bad idea. I appreciate the tip on California Datsun as I hadn't read any bad reviews on them yet. I can try to find some local to machine my flywheel as I have the drawing of where to properly remove material to lighten it.
  18. CRAracer05
    An update of what I intend to build.... N42/N42 engine as follows: Block Cleaned, bored, honed, new freeze plugs, ARP main bolts, ITM flat top pistons .30" oversize (already purchased) Glyptal coating Rods smoothed to remove casting, shot peened, balanced, ARP bolts Head Surface job, valves un-shrouded, mild porting, welded chambers (per Honsowetz book) Cam (Either a Schneider 284-92F or a 290F) (reduced dynamic compression ratio) ARP Head bolts Felpro Head Gasket Fuel MSA triple Webers 45mm (per Honsowetz book) 93 octane pump gas 12 Gal fuel cell Edlebrock pump and regulator Ignition 83' 280zx dizzy, re-curved, vacuum advance removed (question whether to run the the E12-80 or MSD box) 280zx alternator Exhaust MSA 6-2 ceramic headers MSA twice pipes exhaust Cooling 280z OEM radiator Electric fan EVANS waterless coolant or HKS D1 high-pressure raditor cap (15.6psi) Drivetrain California Datsun lightened & resurfaced OEM flywheel 280z/280z 5-speed R200 with OBX LSD (3.90 or 4.11 gears) I would be doing all of the work besides machining.
  19. CRAracer05
    I have done a lot of both, but there is so much conflicting information out there. A handful of people say they never experienced detonation with flat tops and a large cam,because of the dynamic compression loss. My plan is to run a large cam and weld the chambers to further reduce the chances of detonation. Also, on the the distributor when I say the cheapest route I should have elaborated and explained that I would prefer to go with a modified Nissan distributor (re-curved / removed vacuum advance) than to fork out the cash for the Mallory unit. I have also been reading the post on here regarding cooling modifications to the head in order to help reduce ping/detonation issues common on L-series engines. This also brings up the possible use of different coolants that may help.
  20. CRAracer05
    Ya king was bad spelling correction, I fixed it now. Just wondering what route to go on the distributor. I would like to go the cheapest simplest route. Whether it be a modified distributor, 280z or 280zx, or the Mallory. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that the combination of welded chambers, big cam and 93 octane pump gas will be good without detonation.
  21. CRAracer05
    I am starting to plan my engine build and would like some input on my initial parts selection/configuration I am thinking. I have two N42/N42 engines to pick from. My thoughts are as follows: Block Cleaned, bored, honed, new freeze plugs, ARP main bolts, ITM flat top pistons .30" ovesize (already purchased) Head Surface, valves unshrouded, mild porting. (*considering trying to weld up the chambers with a MIG spool gun) Cam (Either a Schneider 284-92F or a 290F) ARP Head bolts Felpro Head Gasket Fuel MSA triple Webers 45mm Ignition Considering a MSD Street Fire ignition box or 6AL Considering also some kind of modified distributor or Mallory Unilite distributor to control advance,
  22. CRAracer05
    I'm still in the market if anyone has something available.
  23. CRAracer05
    Yes, the Honsowetz book gives the exact methods of pre-bending the head when re-shaping the chambers for a better quench area. Off hand, I believe you torque the head on upside down with a piece of 1/4" bar stock in between the middle of the block and cylinder head. I would have to re-read the book to know for sure.
  24. CRAracer05
    Passenger side rocker panel cut off. Here is the new rocker clamped in place with a bead of seam sealer between the panels. Once the sealer cured, I then cleaned the plug weld holes back out with the spot weld cutter and welded the rocker in. I also primed, painted and applied bed-liner inside the rocker panel before I welded it in place.
  25. CRAracer05
    Here is the replacement panel I fabricated. This it clamped into place. Here it is welded in place. You can also the replacement reinforcement plate above the frame rail installed here. All of this steel is 20 Gauge aluminumized steel to try and prevent future corrosion.
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