19762802+2

Those are some decent numbers, did you have Headers and exhaust on the car? I was running a L28 from a 280zx with the P79 head some MSA 6-3-2 headers 2 inch exhaust and some 73 240z SU's on the E-46 manifold and I made 145hp 150ft/lbs at 5,000 rpm. I bet with some ITB's or a carb setup that would make some really nice power. I am also at 6200 feet above sea level as well.

I think I remember someone building a 3.8 liter stroker on here before not to long ago either.

Are you running the carb's without filters like that? it's possible you're just sucking in lots of hot engine bay air, You could build a box off the carbs and run some ducting to the front like on some of the 510's and race cars. Also changing your fluid in domes might help some too, I noticed a difference between hot and cold when I was running 10-30 in my carbs. Possibly float level?

Somebody used some Mitsubishi 4g63 throttle bodies, I can't remember if they bolt straight up but they might, I know 280zx throttle bodies do not bolt up as I had a TB setup for a SU fuel injection manifold for a while, but you could weld the SU holes shut and drill and tap new holes pretty easily.

Did anyone notice he revised the article with a link to this thread?

You could use a Subaru transmission and buy the reverse gear cut set to run it longitude in the rear, also you could use a VW bus tranny and buy and adaptor plate from Kennedy engineering to run whatever motor you want. I know they run SHO motors behind VW bus trannies on some of the Pikes peak cars here and don't have any issues.

When I worked at discount tire, we usually saw issues like that in bigger trucks and some smaller cars, I think most of the time it was from being out of balance causing the wheel to hop, alignment issues, bad shocks, it can be all kinds of things, it's been a while since I worked there and my memory is vague.

The motors are a pain to take out I Helped my buddy on his 84 GTI Rabbit, we had to unbolt everything lift the front end of the car and drop the motor and tranny, I'm sure you could just drop the tranny though, I'm not sure about the jetta but I know on my buddies car its a really weird set up for the flywheel too, The pressure plate goes on first then the clutch then the flywheel bolts everything together and instead of a throwout bearing you have a long pin that disengages the clutch.

I made 145hp and 150ft/lbs on a p79/F54 L28 combo on a junkyard motor with unknown miles, all stock except for a MSA header, 2 inch exhaust, Thrush Welded muffler (exhaust done myself) and some early 3 screw Round top SU's with a shitty tune and if I remember right it was running rich on the top end that day. I also live at 6500ft with a stock 4 speed and a 3.36 rear end so if IIRC you lose 3% of power with every 1000ft of altitude above sea level, at Sea level I should have made around 170hp. I'm going to see if I can get the new owner of my car to send me a Copy of the Dyno sheets I had. Here is a dyno video to hold you guy's over till I get the sheet scanned. Forgot to add I was running 26 degree's total timing with a E12-80 dizzy and a ZX alternator swap.

Depends on how the car looks in person and certain items on the car are worn such as the pedals etc, I thought I bought a honda with 90,000 and turned out the motor was swapped at one time with a vin number that was older then what should be in it, so I assume it was done a while ago. I also bought a basically rust free 260z that supposedly had 46,000 miles on it, and seeing it was a numbers matching car and the inside of the engine was extremely clean and lack of rust lead me to believe that it was true.

Another thing to think about having the radiator flat like behind the motor is that you may have issues bleeding the system, all which can be dealt with though, If you keep the radiator in the back you could do a hood scoop almost like the STI's and have the air pass down through the rad. But it looks like there is plenty of room for a Small Honda Radiator in front. Another thing to think about is if you go Turbo down the road where you will be able to mount the Intercooler. You could always flip the Intake manifold around so the Throttle body faces forward as well, Should flip with no problems whatsoever. Some pictures of a Honda Rad in a Z.

You could run a earlier Jeep cherokee radiator angled back towards the motor, You could run a Honda Civic radiator or 2 which should allow for some space as well.

Nice I noticed right after I posted what you were using, Just had to re-read your posts, Are you going NA or Turboed? Down the road I've considered doing a Ej25 with Ej22 heads and since I'm using megasquirt run it with E85 and I'm already building ITB's for the EJ22 but we'll see how quick it is with the Ej22 should be a lot faster then It was before haha.

What the heck, This is the fastest moving AWD swap I've ever seen or heard of. I'm pretty jealous to say the least. I'm currently building a EJ22 phase 2 out of a 97 Impreza for my Beetle project. What is your plan for the shifter? Seems like placement would be tricky.

I've owned a few 2+2's and compared to my 260z the extra length is definitely added in after the drivers seat, it's pretty noticeable underneath as if I remember correctly you can see where they added on to the front half of a coupe unibody. But it's been a while since I've had them. IMO it would be a lot of work to put a Coupe roof line on a 2+2 when you could just go out and get a Coupe. I've always wanted to modifiy a 2+2 to have a trunk rather then a Hatch and just angle the glass more, sort of like a older mustang. I'll try to portray my idea, but if you check out the picture below you can see where the body line starts to flatten out after the Pillar Trim, I would give the glass section of the hatch a steeper angle then fabricate a small trunk lid, similar to a mustang or what guy's that make Z's into convertibles do. I think the 2+2 would look great as a Sedan type, Almost like a Early skyline.