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ZUL8TR

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Everything posted by ZUL8TR

  1. Personally, I'm more of a fan of the spoiler than the wing on the older Z's. Seems more period correct then and now. The wings are more dated to the 80's.
  2. I'm now sold on the BRE Victory spoiler. It is now on my must have list. Just need to decide on CF or FG w/paint when putting onto Jade Grey ZXT. Hmmmm...
  3. Thanks for the interest? Hey, you could label this as selfish on my part. It looks really good and I think I want to duplicate your work. LOL! So thanks for sharing!
  4. Just hung up from talking with Corbeau. Once again, good customer service. I sent them an email and they called me directly to discuss. FYI...They no longer shave the seat cushion on the LG1. They said it was already thin and to shave more might make it uncomfortable. I was speaking with them in regards to my head clearance issue and got a suggestion or two from them to try in my ZX using their brackets/sliders and then modifying them like I did the stock ZX sliders to get the clearance from floorpan to bottom of the seat to maybe 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 inches. I'll be curious how the seats work out for you if you decide to go with them.
  5. Cool. They even make a CF version. How did you mount it - screw or 3M tape? Are there any issues with fitment on the ZX? How did you deal with the cut-out where the hatch button would be on the 280Z, but obviously not on the ZX?
  6. FYI...Corbeau will shave the seat area down for you. Tell them how much you want them to remove when you order. I need to check and see if they are able to do that if I send them back to them. Maybe I can pick-up another 1/2 to 1 inch of vertical clearance? Craig is right on the pass-through for the shoulder harness. It is a little low for me. I haven't put in a harness yet since I need to make a harness bar first, I think I'll be OK since I will have a little leeway with how high I put the final position of the harness bar and still have a good angle. Another option I'm looking at is to make another set of hinges so I can raise the back up a small amount.
  7. Me too. I had no idea the one for the 280Z would fit. I had an old urethane one off a 240 that I test fit and it didn't work at all.
  8. I have the LG1 seats in a 280ZXT with t-tops. I'm 6'1" and currently 214 pounds. Yes, different car, but gives you a remote idea of fit. Seats are very comfortable. I went with leather and the lumbar support. I had an issue with one when brand new and Corbeau customer service was GREAT! I am very unhappy with headroom though. I used the stock ZX sliders and have modified them a bit to drop the seat lower and its still not enough. On the back of the sliders, I cut a good portion out and made new attachment points. On the ZX, the heights of each side are different. Also, the mechanism for the sliders sits up above the sliders. The ZX seats are hollow on the bottom and the mechanism fits up inside of this. The bottoms of the Corbeau LG1's are flat all the way across the bottom. No indent. My solution was try to cut as much of the mechanism down as possible and have it still function. In the first pic, you can see how the mechanism sticks up a good bit. I drilled a hole down lower, then cut the excess off. I also trimmed off a small amount on the other slider. I used steel bar to go across the sliders to mount the seat. You can see in this pic how the mechanism really sits up high so I can't mount the seat flush to the steel bar. I use spacers on the bolts that mount the seat to the slider assembly so the bottom of the seat clears the mechanism. To get the seat to fit more inboard, I had to splice in some material for the seat belt mount. It still is not centered on the steering wheel, but I no longer notice that. You can see in the last two pics that it will be hard for me to lower the sliders anymore than I already have. My winter plan is to weld the cross bars to the sliders, then remove the mechanism that sticks up high. This will allow me to remove the spacers and gain an extra inch of headroom. I have to keep the seat adjustment so the wife can drive too. Holler with any questions.
  9. When I pulled my engine, I was missing the rear attachment point, so used a piece of bar stock. Sorry for blurry pic. I made these for lifting the block. Works great.
  10. I like the way you handled the two-tone. Which rear spoiler is that? I'd like to add one of those to my ZX.
  11. I bought the carpet kit from MSA. Picked up a new set of mats at the same time. Ignoring the Corbeau seats, the carpet & mats made a HUGE difference with the interior. Easy install too.
  12. This ZXT has always been a play car. Never a DD. Toss in frequent cleanings and it helps to keep it looking good. Whenever I'm mod'd something, there is a great deal of cleaning that goes on. Dash out? Clean everything you can remotely get to. All the plastic parts were scrubbed in the tub. I did replace the carpet. That made a HUGE difference. Yarddogg77...Your ZX is coming along nicely. Looking really good! Keep it up and you are going to be one proud pappa of that ZX.
  13. Thanks guys. I'm pretty darn proud of my ZX. Feb production date, so she turns 29 next month and still a joy to drive and still turns heads.
  14. Long time lurker on this site. Some of you know me as Indy83Turbo280zx elsewhere. Might was well show-off my baby here. 1983 ZXT. Been in the family since new. I took over ownership from my late father in 2001. Been slowly modding it since. It is still original paint. The following is what I have done to date. Further plans include: headlight covers (purchased, need to install), MSnS, wider wheels & tires TBD. Suspension Modifications • Tokico High Performance Springs & Struts • MSA Sway Bars – Front: 1â€, Rear: 7/8†• Strut Tower Brace: Custom Rear & Cusco Front •Polyurethane Bushings Engine & Performance Modifications • Cold Air Induction with K&N Cone Filter • T-3 / 4 Hybrid Turbo • HKS Intercooler • GReddy Adjustable Pop-Off Value • GReddy PRofec B-spec II Electronic Boost Controller • B&M Pro-Ripper Short Throw Shifter & Knob • 3†Mandrel Downpipe & Exhaust w/18†Stainless MagnaFlow Muffler & Twin Tips • Taylor Hi-Pro 8mm Spark Plug Wires • NGK Spark Plugs • Stainless Steel Clutch Line • Stainless Steel Brake Lines • Circle Earth Grounding Wires • Billet “Z†Oil Filler Cap • Billet “Z†Dipstick End Interior Modifications • Digital Instrument Cluster swapped to Analog Instrument Cluster, includes: 130 MPH Speedometer - Calibrated, Analog Wire Harness, Analog Temperature Sending Unit, Analog Fuel Sending Unit • Auto A/C Air system swapped to Manual A/C Air System • AutoMeter Boost/Vacuum Gauge • AutoMeter Air/Fuel Mixture Gauge • GReddy PRofec B-spec II Electronic Boost Controller mounted in ashtray • Stereo: Pioneer Tuner, CD, MP3, Rockfort Front Speakers, Infinity Rear Speakers • Rear Strut Tower Brace – Custom • Grant Corsa GT Steering Wheel with Z Horn Button • Corbeau LG1 Leather Seats on modified sliders
  15. I have a used booster and a rebuilt master located in Indianapolis. Also have used master that needs rebuilding. PM me if interested.
  16. If you are swapping to an analog cluster, you might want to track down a speedo from a 79 so you can get the 130mph version. If you stick with one from an 83, you are stuck with an 85mph speedo. There are variations in the analog harnesses. As stated above concerning NA vs Turbo, but also cruise control. When I swapped out the digital for analog in my 83ZXT, I also swapped out the fuel sending unit and the temp sensors under the hood. Like suggested above, replace all the old foam in the duct work. I also recommend you replace every single piece of vacuum line under the dash. Its cheap and easy when the dash is out.
  17. Happy we found them a home and less stuff in my garage/basement/attic.
  18. Lester, the one we discussed that I had in Indy has gone to the great recycler in the sky.
  19. I have a dash wire harness from 280. Out of the dash. Unhacked. Also have a dash wire harness currently in a 240 dash that I can pull. Unhacked. Have an oil pan with an -AN fitting for the oil return. PM me if interested. Located in Indianapolis.
  20. I have 280 parts that need to go ASAP. Let me know what you need.
  21. I think I have a set, let me dig for you.
  22. You guys should check with the shops along Gasoline Alley in Indy. Lots of race shops there that do this sort of thing. Also check over in Brownsburg in the Nitro Alley area. There is a shop over there that builds midgets, etc. They might be able to point you in the right direction. heck, they may even do it themselves. They have all the bending, cutting & welding equipment in their backroom. Sorry, can't remember the name of the shop, but just a few buildings from John Force and Prudhome. If you have a local welder that can do the work, you can get material from A.E.D. Motorsport Products in Indy. Raw material to the motorsport industry is what they do for a living. Give them a call and they may refer you to a local shop that can help you out. Their # & web: 317-334-0569 www.aedmotorsport.com. Hope that helps! Don't forget to follow-up with info on what you end up doing.
  23. That stuff is for a 280Z, not a 280ZX. He needs the ZX parts. Steve, if you can't find it here, try Roger at Z Barn outside Knoxville. He set me up on what I needed to do the conversion in my ZX.
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