ZUL8TR

Not to be argumentative, but the Federal gov't law from Sept 1979 stated must have 85mph speedos. This continued through to 1984. Therefore, I can't see how you have a 1980 130mph speedo unless it is from another country and then it would read in KPH, not MPH. In the US, the only year the S130 had a 130mph speedo was 1979.

Hunt for a 130mph speedo from a 79 ZX. You could also check out a Canadian version from any year since they didn't have the 85mph limitation. I did this swap years ago, but since I replaced the digital harness with an analog version, I can't help with the wiring. Good luck!

If you could please clarify a few things: 1) Is that price for all 4 wheels? 2) AT 19mm, I assume a vented rotor? 3) I apologize for not researching, but are performance pads available on the open market for the calipers? thanks!

He goes by Coyote on zcar.com. He recently started a thread there. Posted pic of his garage and I believe the car in question is in the background.

Put a post in the Parts Wanted section and see what you get. Also check ebay. You might have to buy the cluster from one person and the 130 speedo from someone else. I used Roger at Z Barn in TN to source the correct harness I needed to work with my 83 ZXT. He could probably help you with the cluster and gauge too. I haven't talked to him in years. He was always very slow to respond, but true to taking care of his customers.

Are you content to go with the 1979 130mph version? If so, that's pretty easy. 1) Analog cluster from any S130 2) Analog speedo from an S130 1979 analog cluster, only year with 130mph. 3) Analog dash harness 4) I also replaced the engine temp sensors and fuel sending unit when I did mine. Shops that calibrate analog speedos are becoming more and more rare. Shop I used in Indy was sold. The new guys have the device, but not sure what to do with it. Looks like a torture device. If you are happy with the digital and want to maintain that look, I have a working digital cluster from when I changed to analog. PM me if interested in that route.

I would suspect 4-piston would be preferred. Avoid boat anchor heavy calipers.

Safe to assume you've taken a peek at these? http://www.arizonazcar.com/510brakes.html 12.2" rotor and 4-pot calipers will fit in a 15" wheel.

12" vented rotors 4 piston calipers Available for front & rear Rear parking brake It would be great if we have easy aftermarket access to replacement rotors. Ease of finding brake pads in varying types of compounds. Reasonable pricing. Current option is $795 for front or back via AZ Z Car. Seems steep to me, but I have no reference point, so I could be wrong. Currently running stock 15" rims, but 17" are in the future plans.

The switch in the control unit. Where you turn the fan on/off and control fan speed.

FWIW, I had a somewhat similar problem. It was intermittent, then eventually stopped work all together. Replaced the switch and it was all better.

T3/4 came set-up for v-band. Here's the rest of the exhaust. I paid a "professional" to build the CAT back. I think I did a heck of a lot better job.

It isn't that much of a challenge to build a 3" mandrel downpipe on a 280ZXT. See my pics above. A better description is below. For the first bend coming off the turbo, you need a 3" radius bend. Summit Racing sells them. Not all tubing suppliers offer a 3" radius. You cut the pipe right as it curves around and begins to run straight. It will fit just fine. If you do this, the rest is a cake walk. I don't weld. So I would work on a section, mark how I wanted it welded, then took to a buddy's shop and he would tack it together. Then back home to verify it fit and work on the next section, mark it, then back to my buddy for more welding. When I knew a section was perfect, he would weld up the joint. If I knew how to weld and had a welder, this was a weekend job. Look at the next pic and you will notice the DP needs a twist to clear the engine/tranny and then curve back to mate with the rest of the exhaust. The v-band flange you see in the pic mates to the exhaust. This section was made from two 90 degree bends. The top is the 3" radius. The bottom is a 6" radius. I cut the 6" in the middle of the bend. This allowed me to articulate into the twist I needed to fit. This shows the parts needed. You can see how tight you can get the 3" radius bend where the flange is welded on. It helps to do that first so you can bolt it in place, then work figuring out how to get the rest to line up. I should note that the 3" exhaust was done before I worked on the downpipe. The top left mates to the turbo. You can see the twist it needs. This is showing the flange that mates to the turbo. Notice it is a 2.5" vs the 3" on the opposite end. The T3/4 turbo I went with was set-up for a 2.5" v-band clamp. The flange slips inside the tubing and it was easy to weld it in place without having to use a 2.5" pipe. This shows where the DP mats to the exhaust. V-band clamps are great for doing all of this.

3" downpipe mating to a T3/4 turbo shown from top and bottom Simple plate to block off the EGR

I have one in Indy with glass. Friend is driving to Homestead 1st part of March. Need to see if he has space and time to be a courier.

Hey...your project, you run with it. No worries on my part.

Hey, if you know someone, go light a fire under their fanny!

Plus center caps that worked with our hubs.

Dang, just love your ZX with those wheels. Its on my Wish List for mine which is also Jade Grey. Nice to know EXACTLY how it will look. Love it.

Except for those of that were held back in K for a second year due to our age. At least I made up for it on the other end and got out of HS early.

There is something to say about economies of scale. Set-up for a production run is costly in labor, so any 1 off product is going to be more expensive. Additionally, connectors and such are always big $$$ when you are buying to build 1 vs 10. I've seen connectors go for $15+ for a single, only to drop to $0.60 in a production run. When you toss in all the others needed, that's HUGE savings. Don't get me wrong, I love your idea. If there is minimal difference in the options you would offer and they can be incorporated into a single harness, then you might want to seriously look at that and take advantage of volume discounts. Put together a list of buyers, with deposits, then do a production run to fill the orders. Rinse. Repeat.

FricFrac...wire harnesses in auto/truck/heavy equipment are how I make my living. If you have drawings, specs, etc, I might be able to help you out. FYI...MIL-spec is really going to drive the cost up and not really needed in a car. Not like we have people shooting at us. If you are interested, we can talk off-line and go from there. They would all be professionally made and 100% tested for continuity.

Something else you could add into this discussion is rotational weight/mass. I = mr². I=Inertia, m=mass(kg), and r=radius Additionally, the farther from center that mass is along the radius, the more HP is required to get it rolling and maintain the inertia. Goes for both wheel and tire in combination.

I appreciate the build thread on this. Keep the detailed pics and descriptions coming! Curious if you plan on using 3M tape to mount or some other way?

You have PM