tightywhitey185

On my 1974 260 Z I am obviously running an electronic distributor.On the distributer I have 2 solid green wires coming out of it respectivly.In my chilton manual and my facory nissaN manual it states that from my transistor ignition unit there should be a yellow wire,a green and red wire and a green and white wire wich are visible coming from my harnes.The problem lies here.It seems like there should be a 3rd wire coming from my distributor and there isnt.Just 2 solid green wires.How would I wire this properly to my transistor ign unit??Before i did my rebuild it ran and it was wired so that one green off the dizzy went to the green and white theother green off the dizzy to the green and red.No use of the yellow wire like the manual sais.The yellow wire was left hanging?With the only 2 wires coming off the dizzy being solid greens.....Is one wire a positive and the other a negative?I would greatly appreciate the help!Thank you.

Do you have to replace the voltage regulator everytime you replace the alternator?I went ahead and ordered oneanyway but just wondering.

When ordering a new alternator for my 260z napa asked if it was a 50 or 60 amp?Does anyone know wich alternator is spacific to this car?Does it make a big difference?

I have a fresh l24 rebuld with exception of the cam rockers and lash pads.All wipe patterns are centered and where they should be and rockers are in there same places as when torn apart. Question:Do I have to use molly greese on the cam being it is not brand new?At this point I have assembled the motor using GM OES assembally lube on pretty much everthing including the cam. Question:I Figured I will just prime my oil pump and then use a drill to prime the motor before start up.Will this be a proper method of pre oiling?

I just finished putting mine together the other day and I noticed that same thing.there ar little gaskets on that cam oiler tube and they seemed like they were a little tired.I ran some carb clean in it and shot a little compressed air to see if all the holes were clear.Everything seemed ok especially around the gasket area.Do you absolutely need to replace them?

Thank you for a response.

Anyone?

Engine-L24 Head-E88 Cam-Stock Ive got the motor back from the machine shop and im slowly but surely getting her together.The head has been milled substantially but the deck on the block was just cleaned up a few thous.I set my number one piston to TDC with a dial indicator before slapping the head on and marked it on the crank damper wich happens to be the first notch with a sharpie.put the head on with the cam timed mind you.The dowel pin was at around the 11 oclock position where it alligned with the mark on the cam tower plate perfectly like my book stated.Went to put my cam chain on and illigned the bright links with their respective positions on the cam and crank sprockets.In order to get it on its throwing the cam timing advanced.NOTE...when the number one piston is at absolute TDC the marker on the cam sprocket through the hole in the sprocket is showing that it is advanced and i cant think of anything to do about it.I would post a phot but my camera cant zoom in enough to show the marks thru the hole in the cam sprocket.The arrow on the sprocket is to the right of the notch on the cam plate but the left side of the arrow just barely alinged with the mark. Question.....Is the cam advanced enough to cuase problems?The sprocket is mayby a millimeter to the right of where it should allignt to.Is that to advanced?

I finished up the bottom end up on my l24 last night so i cleaned the deck surface careingly along with the botom of the E88 head and set the new felpro gasket on.I lost my 10mm allen so i figured id stop at that point in the night and go to sears in the morning to get a new one.I came back this evening and torqued them all down to spec and i noticed that after all was tightened down that assembally lube that I used on the rockers and cam had squshed out between the head gasket on the filter side and im worried sick that oil had slowly seeped onto my deck and head serfaces over night becuase i didnt zap my head bolts down.Do you think it is ok or should i start all over with a new gasket before i go further?It wasnt a rediculois amount of oil mind you.Just enough to make me question the cleanliness of my head and deck surface for a good squish.Thanks for your help.

In this case I think your best bet would to lay your viper red down first and then doing a mid coat of the pearl of your choice thats reduced like 75 percent over your red.then clearcoat it.With a red that solid you would have to dump a crap load of pearl into it for it to pop like you would want it.There actually a chrysler color that is more like a maroon pearl tri coat that they use on the viper truck and stratus that IMO is a sweet pearly maroon color from the factory.That color actually is like a solid maroon base with a mid coat with beleive it or not a copper pearl.In your case i think if you used a yellow or mayby white that may be cool.You might have to experiment.Just dont mix it right into the red unless its HUGE flake like a bass boat.Do base coat red.Mid coat of over reduced pearl for deapth.

AHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!MAN!

This poor subaru.This car was totalled from hail damage.This is the most damage ive seen on a car yet.

That is bad ass!I think the trike craze is back.

The cam and the towers are off the head.I took them off before sending it off.He breifly mentioned the machining the top of the head too.If i ask this guy if he is machining the top should i go throuh with it?At ths point im tempted to just have him machine it becuase what other choice do I have?The short block is finished.Should I source another head?

He mentioned nothing about straightening the head.

Im getting to be on the last leg of getting this motor finished at the machine shop.L24 block all finished up.Got a call from the shop about my E-88 head and he said it is slightly warped.Pretty much out of shape about 16 thous.He said he would be able to clean it up good to about 7-8 thous streightness.He asked me if the cam was bound up at all and it was not becuase the car ran when I tore it apart. Is that acceptable when im just getting this cleaned up? If i have shaved 2-3 thous off the deck on the block wich was done,then 7 thous off the head will i need to use a thicker head gasket? Can I use a regular fel pro gasket at all? Will I need to shim the cam towers? How do you guys tell what the stock thickness is on an E-88 cylinder head?How can you measure how much has come off from stock? Will I have valve clearence issues? Will this cuase a large enough spike in compression to have to use high test fuel? Any help would be awesome !thank you much.

OHHHHHH yeah!Got my gunmetal RBRs today!Awesome wheels.It literally took 6 business days..Very impressed.

I was just messin around and found this online GM engine builder.You can dyno different head intake packages etc.Check it out. http://www.goodwrench.com/GMPerformanceParts/HomeHighlights/build_it.jsp

Im in columbus ohio.Does anyone know of any good internet resources for these blocks.Ill probably end up doin som yardin here soon!

Well im waiting on a couple of PMs back from some folks selling a couple on here.

Well today I got the call back from the machine shop and to my horror the block is cracked.It has a hairline crack about 2 inches long starting from one of the freeze plugs.DAMN.Good news is the head "E88" came back just fine.A little surfacing a couple valves replaced and there you have it.I asked the owner of the shop if there is a procedure for repairing this.Has anyone here successfully repaired a crack in a cast iron block?Its not like its between any bores or anything but im willing to guess i should just source another block?Does anyone have a L24-26 p30 unbored block they could sell me?

Im sort of in the same situation.Im sending my stuff to the shop tomorrow And ill bet it will need a deck cleaning and some pretty normal machine work.In your situation wouldnt a thicker head gasket solve this?Are there different thickness headgaskets made for these motors?I would asume yes becuase anyone who has had machine work and wants to return the motor to stock configurations would absolutely need one.On an L24 what is the max you can machine of of the deck and the head before you have to fly cut pistons or run compression too high or run into cam timing issues?what size head gaskets are available?

This same topic is going on right now in body kits and paint.I literally sanded mine down a littl bit.scuffed it with scotch brite and clear coated it.PRESTO!looks awesome.

My steering wheel was looking pretty rough so I took some 320 grit wich may seem way egressive.Actually you could probably use 600.But Lightly scuffed it down and then got all the hard to reach areas with a red 3m scuff pad.I was thinking I should put a coat of stain on it first then clear coat it but i figured i would just try to clear coat it becuase if i had to redo it later what the hay. I litterally just clear coated it with som dupont spot clear i had layin around and it turned out awesome.I glossy deep wood finish just by sanding scuffing and clearing.Hoped that helped.

Ahhhh I love it!Its funny i was just thinking aboutbrochure stuff.I am in and out of just about every car dealership in my area weekly and ALWAYS make sure I snag a factory brochure for every car I can for the new year and stuff those in a box wrapped in plastic.One day my time capsule collection of brochures may pay off.