tightywhitey185

That color is a GM color for the pontiac GTO and G8 for 2008-2009.Code WA687F or red hot.In the photos the color looks a little on the orange side to me but in person its really the most true red ive ever painted!

Yes im very happy with this.This by far was the most work ive put into a car.Thanxs for the great input!

So after about a year and three months i finally got my Z painted.I tell you it was an awful lot of work getting this body ready for this.Just a quick recap here.I replaced all the floor steel with pans from Zedd findings wich i was very happy with.painted with POR15.Spent weeks scraping all the old crap off the bottom to fix the rust and spots under the batt tray.Respray bottom with 3M body shutz.All new urithane suspension bushings new struts ball joints wheel bearings front and rear.New joints in the cvs and repainted all suspension peices with black POR15.Started the body and did all my filler work with Rage filler from evercoat.I like that filler the best.After all the major filling was complete i sprayed the entire body with Slicksand plyester filler from evercoat.I blocked that down with 180 and skimmed a couple little spots with some skim filler.I prefer 3M piranha putty.Then primed the entire body again with a good 2k primer from sherwin williams.Blocked that with 320 grit and now was ready for paint!The reason im using sherwin williams ultra 7000 on this projectis becuase our paint rep for our body shop gave me the whole gallon of color for this project for free!I just had to buy all the other materials from sherwin haha.anybody who paints nows red is expensive!Even with that gallon for free ive got about 800 in materials.In my photos in the paint booth i go from primer to sealer to finished product.The clear on this car is sherwin williams CC950 performance plusclearcoat with 3 coats of clear on it.I used an iwata lp300h lvlp to spray sealer base and clear.I had never sprayed this product before and im actually very impressed!

I work in auto body and have used them a great deal.The are nice on bumper repairs to an extent becuase regardles you have to use a little bit of body fller over where you have welded.I have never used it for anything besides bumpers on cars though.In my opinion the most superiour way to repair plastic is to use a product by 3M called 5887 duramix.Its a 2 part epoxy and is STRONG!you cant pull a repair apart with this.Awesome for massive tears in bumpers or anything plastic for that matter.

Ill second that!Great stuff.

They were replacements.They were wore out old tokicos.

I personally love the Iwata's for clear.I use the lvlp for clear.These guns are really good for a fancy clear job.I tipically use the hvlp iwata or sata digital RP for matching oem factory clear finishes.Gives the clear a lil more texture.Ford GM for example.But i always use an hvlp for base coats that are metallic.The iwata lvlp sucks for high metallics in my opinion.Go sata or iwata HVLP.For you i would just recomend the HVLP iwata for an all around good base/clear gun.Not terribly expensive.May ask what paint you are spraying?

Im running an R180 in my 260.What is the stock weight of gear oil for that rear end?Does anyone play around with any other off the wall brands?

If the basecoat is modeled then just simply scuff the surface wich you wish repair....lower quarter....with a grey 3M pad or red wich is a little coarser and clean it and dust color over the modeled area and you might have to clear the whole quarter and use clear coat blender on the pillar unless you wanna spot the thing in right in the middle of the quarter.

Finally got those bastards out!I drilled a hole in the bottom of the strut and hammered them out with a steel rod and then welded up the holes after.Good god that was a mess!Thank you for the pointers guys.

Or maybe 2 pickup trucks.lol.

Ok and if i do get the old ones out will the new ones be just as hard to get back in?

Ok I finally got the damn gland nut off by welding a 1 1/2 inch nut on the gland nut quenching it between tacks with water.The first time i zapped it with the impact it actually broke the welds so i re welded.Second time around was the charm.So ive been battleing these gland nuts so now i cant get the struts out of the housing like a few of you that ive read about on here.I took a 20lb slide hammer on a big chain attached to a lower tow hook on the front of my nova and these are freakin seized like a mother!I have brand new cardridges awaiting this car and i have onl gotten to this point with one strut!The next thing i can think of is to take this to my dads body shop and chaining the thing to the car-o-liner and reall wailing on this thing to get the cartidge out.Im half temted to post a thread to all new Z members that this strut issue is a nightmare.At least for me.Damn.Should i just go coil overs all around?

Yeah well im pretty mad.I have soaked these for a week now and tried budging them again last night.No luck.Damn.I mean these things are practically seized on there.The nuts are almost ruined.The only other thing i can think to do is drain all the fluid fron the bottom of the strut plug the hole then weld a big fat nut to the gland nut and just let an impact wrench wail away.that or by new struts.this is really frustrating.

Man im freakin stumped.Ive been spraying these suckers for 4 days now and i tried zapping them with a 1/2 inch impact with a 3/4 socet and rounded the damn bolt off then i tried putting the whole strut assembally on a bench vice and used a pipe chain and a 5 foot iron breaer bar.NO BUDGE!its bending the bolt holding the cartridge in.And heated it with map gas mind you.Something is up here.But i havnt even gotten to the rears.Both fronts are this way.I dont now what to do.

So wait are these right or left hand thread?i dont see why they would be left hand.

Alright ive tried putting the torch on these and grabbing 2 of the biggest and baddest pipe wrenches on it after letting this soak in nut blaster all night and no budge!WTF!its starting to bend the nut holding the cartridge in.I cant be the only one who has delt with this?Would i be better off grabbin a massive torque impact for this or just keep soakin it or what?I would greatly thank you for some more insight!

Ok ill let them soak but another thing ive reasearched in the factory service manual is that these shocks are rebuldable?you add oil to the struts?Can you re oil them or slide whole new strut cartridges in that place?Basically what im asking....when i finally get that nut off Am i able to slide a brand new strut cartridge in ther?pics anyone?

Im redoing my entire suspension on my 74 260Z bushings and everything and im actually stumped on how to remove the cartridge from the body of the strut.Ive remove the spring and it looks like a nut keeping the cartridge in the strut but this bastard is tight!This might be dumb but is that nut a righty loosy by chance?Ive tried heating it up and using a pipe wrench on this sucker but no budge.Any help greatly appreciated.

Has anyone tried running ZG flares on the rear only on an S30 like some guys do on the old GTRs?I though it might be interesting.This is how the GTR looks.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R0oSSBYE5FM&feature=related

http://www.autoblog.com/2009/01/21/sorry-no-nissan-gt-r-engine-for-your-510/

You know i find harbor freight hit or miss.I bought an engine stand there and its held my motor damn fine.little stiff like wire brushes gloves socket sets are decent but with sockets if you are doing a massively tight bolt where you have to use a giant breaker bar better go with snap on or mac or craftsman or whatever haha.Ill bet you will be ok.For there prices its almost worth it to try?