tightywhitey185

<----That pretty red Z awaits New rotas!

Thank you much!Email sent!

Oh yeah and they still cost 750 shipped right?

I am Just about ready to purchase some RBR-s from this group buy deal.17x9 -13 fronts.17x9.5 -19 rears.Gunmetal grey centers.Do I contact kim personally by phone to place order?What kind of a wait did you folks have for these wheels?

Haha blue72 that piston was photographed after i cleaned it.It looked very balck on op like the cylinder head photo above.Came right off though with some brake clean.It was running way rich when i bought it.Thanks for the insight.I know damn sure im going to take it to the machine shop tomorrow for a good hot tanking.Ill just have to go over it with them and hope for the best.The head is a different story.If you look closely at the head ,the deck has grooves in it.Like it has grooves that dug into the head gasket.I am a little confused by that becuase ive seen aother guys freshly decked heads and they are smooth but this head is grooved its weird.thanks for your insight guys!

I think my thread here is a little nonspecific.When any of you go through an engine is it safe to say that you should have every tool to measure every part of a motor?Precision streight edge,bore mics,feeler gauges,dial indicators and bases,micrometers.I have all these tools but a streight edge.Should any beginer be able to tell the machine shop exactly what needs done?In my opiion if i just drop this sucker of and say hey!Get her done!Im willing to bet they will do way more work then needed.Its their business.I guess i just needed some eyes to take a look at my parts.I dont think it looks like ill need major work here.Maybe im wrong and need to take the next step and guidence from you guys to get me out of beginner engine builder status!

Well I figured since every part has needed a going through in one way or another I have decided to tear down the motor.The past owner said it had been recently been rebuilt but I needed to see for myself.I am in no way a pro engine builder and thats why im not afraid to ask you guys for help here.My eyes tell me here that the internals really look like they are in great shape.Heres what I have come up with...... L24 block with an E88 HEAD.This is cylinder number one...it sais on the top 0.50 so im asuming thats .20 over?I measured my bores with a bore gauge and checked for taper and if each bore were out of round top to bottom.My measurements were pretty damn close reading 3.290 give or take 1-2 thous all the way across so that seems like a good thing?Consistant all across the bores not any difference of 1-2 thousanths.Maybe im wrong here.Stock bore is 3.268.This piston to me liiks as if it has very little wear. Here is my rotating assembally.The crank journals look wonderful.No scratches or grooves or anything.Looks like it was just polished.Bearings are standard size.The rod bearings show little wear like the crank bearings.I used a dial indicator on the journals and rotated it aroind acouple times to see if any of the journals were out of round and everything was Good for about 1-2 thous again EXCEPT the rear main jornal as ou can see the bearing is showing.It was about 7 thous out of round.That seemed scary but the bearing wasnt wore totally out or anything.Does that need machined? The thing on this block that stuck out the most to me was the deck. Im pissed becuase i do not have a streight edge good enough to measure this.Besides the deckjust looks bad a little rough to me what do you think?Its a littl pitted around the water jackets and such. What do you guys think of all this?Im scared to death to deal with a machine shop just becuase of my ignorance and never had to use them except for small motorcycle engines.I Bet that i would be able to get this short block cleaned up and in good order by doing a micropolish in the crank...new standard main and rod bearings and a good hot tanking and a hone job.Maybe clan up the deck .Maybe im absolutely wrong.There are without a doubt a million things to measure on this block but what would you recomend I check before committing to a machine shop.It seems things are looking ok from what ive read in my "how to rebuild your L series engine".Any opinions on this I would be very gretful for.

I worked in a radio station as a small personality and recording spots for companies.Was a working musician/guitarist then worked in recording.Went into automotive as a detailer at a body shop.Then worked into being a painters helper.Got a full time spot painting and doing body work.Now as a full time career I Am a paintless dent repair tech.I chase hail storms and come to towns hammered with hail damage and contract work through setting up retail shops and working with body shops to handle your cars pounded with hail dents!Wow...i have a strange work history!

Sweet Jeeebus!They always rust in those exact same spots!To a tee!Mine looked just like that.It was a flinstones mobile with my feet right through the floors.Its alot of work but sooo worth it.It doesnt have to be done by tomorrow.Take your time and keep that pretty Z alive!

Ok so lets suppose I would drop of the short block to the machine shop with the rotating assembly in it.What would it cost for them to SPec the entire block and rotating assembly assuming nothing needs work?ei...deck height,bore,bore out of round,mains,bearing clearence deck streightness a good hot tanking and all that jazz?I mean they are a machine shop and make money of machiune work and im scared to death they will say YUP NEEDS BORED NEEEDS THIS AND THAT even though it mught possibly not?I guess Need someone to give me a heads up on what to expect through dealing with a machine shop.The more I research this could be more complicated and expensive then I intended just to get this block in spec.My eyes say it really looks great inside the engine.

Im sort of in the same boat here with my motor.Im going to post some similar photos.If everything looks ok in there should you just re bearing and re ring it and hone it and hot tank it and clean the crap out if it or should you send that sucker to a machine shop and have it all measured up?It could look clean but the fact that th block could need major machining could be purely mathmatical right?My question is....if the block looks good visually is it better to just hot tank everything and put new bearings rings and a coat of paint on the block?There are a million things to check specs on and this is what im struggling with.It could be costly.

Ahhh well played.That very well could be the one.The color on that z is moderatly yellow tho.I dunno.

Ahhhhh yes this is a very Interesting topic.There are multiple ways of getting These finishes.There are true FLAT colors for example just spraying basecoat on the car and there you have it no clear or what not but some basecoats still have sort of a slight gloss to them?does that make sense?There are a few companies making true random colores flats like Hot Rod Flatz i think?I cant imagine that these finishes hold up to well to the elements but i havnt tried them first hand.I think your best bet for a semigloss multi color choice finish would be to pick a paint code you like and mix it like a body shop would as a semi gloss color.An example is on older Mercedes benx bumper claddings....they are a true semi gloss and there are formulas for mixing this as a semi gloss and its super durable.For all you body shop opainters out there its like mixing an under hood color.Its not basecoat clearcoat but its semigloss.There are additives for the paint or dull clears you spray over the basecoat color.In my opinion if you just spray basecoat like silver over your prepare substrate it will look sweet but might not hold up.If you get bored one day and drive by a dealership with a ton of cars with their hoods up.....look closely at some semi gloss under hood colors...they are durable factory dull finishes!

I should have done this.......sorry.I would challenge someone to find a closer match.Then again id would say that just about any major auto manufacturer will or did have a color chip in their linup that you could perhaps match to this.

I know for sure this color isnt a nissan color.Im willing to wager that it is sunset gold.Sorry guys but this is a ford color.Or damn close to it!

I had a pretty sizable gap in my gasket on the upper corner on my driver side so here is what i did.A black dragon geasket mind you.After about a week of looking at my work i noticed the gasket was sagging in that corner noticably so i re wet the entire gasket with soapy water like crazy andjust started messaging it around the entire gasket.just forcing it around really.let it dry and use silicone to seal and hold.

I agree that Clay bars are really good at removing contaminates from the paint and makes a really smooth finish but the only downfall is that on black cars you have to be careful becuase the crap the clay bar will pick up will scratch the finish unless you fold the bar every once in a while.Plus you really should wax or buff the car after a good clay barring.Just sayin.I do it everytime I wash and detail quite frankly.

Found that Z with knock offs!i LOVE THAT!

Haha thats so cool....A dedicated screen just for hybridZ at work.Ill try that one.

Ill usually wake up before work and have 2 or 3 cups of coffee and check it.If its slow at work ill check it a couple of times then when i get home after pondering the days Z activities I will read about it then work on the car.

wow......ok thats a good start.......I like your honesty...

Actually im gonna be honest......Denial is not just a river in egypt........im on here alot.I mean alot.......the information is endless!!!!!!!YESSSSSSS

Me myself spend a good bit of time on here.My 260Z is really starting to get fun now in the restoration process and i read a hell of alot on here.I usually spend on average of about 1 and a half hours daily on here.Im sure some of you Zedd-O-Philes on here spend way more then that.What about you guys?Lets be honest here!

Nice link!Oh yeah thats what im talking about.Post some photos of your z with them on it.I would love to see it.

A side note here s that I couldnt find that Z that I saw and was hoping someone here would.Second i know the Toyota 2000 gt had true knock offs.Anyone tried this?