BunnySlippers

Could be the thermotime switch, EGR system, air valve.. Download the EFI bible and get a digital multimeter and go to town. Good luck!

I am in need of an Air regulator for a 75 280Z. The 75 is specific to that year only. Should look like the attached picture.

The car looks great, it really does. Good work. I'm on my way to catching you. I've had 4 Z31's and still have one, and a '75 280Z now as well.

Good to hear. lol.

Remove the ac compressor from the mount. I think there is one you can't see that's behind the compressor hat goes into the side of the block.

I'm pretty sure the L series and VG30's share the same transmission bolt patterns. Gear ratios will be different and maybe mounting points as well. And nice find on the timing belt and seals! Lucky bastard.

Yes, the pathfinder exhaust manifold will bolt on. They are both VG30 heads. Just make sure there is clearance in the engine bay/ transmission tunnel. Getting a broken stud out isn't as painful as it sounds. Just get an easy out set and have at it. No need for heat. How did you solve the pathy intake clearance issue?

Nice find. Make it a 5 speed. It's not too difficult.

So I'm pretty sure it is the injectors now. All I did was pull the rail off and put it on the bench to replace the FPR and put the rail back on. But stranger things have happened. Ordering a set of injectors in the next few days. Hopefully that will fix it. As far as I know the part that looks like a pressure regulator next to the pump is a fuel damper. It smooths out the pulses from the pump.

Yes, the old FPR was leaking fuel into the intake manifold. There is a vacuum hose leading from the intake manifold to the feel pressure regulator. The seals in the FPR went bad and were leaking fuel right into the intake manifold. But I do not see why you are pursuing this avenue. That part has been replaced.

The vacuum port on the FPR angles down into the intake manifold on the 280Z. The seals in the FPR went bad, and are leaking fuel into the intake manifold vie pressure from the fuel rail.

Looks like you did a good job on the swap. cant wait to see the finished product.

I have a '75 280Z that was running decent, and now doesn't. I was having hard start issues. The fuel rail wasn't holding any pressure after sitting for a few minutes. I would have to crank it for a while until it had full fuel pressure again. So I replaced the FPR and new fuel hoses on the rail, but not on the injectors. Found that the old FPR was leaking into the intake manifold. Now when I try to start it it wont do it on its own, after much cranking I pulled the plugs and they were covered in gas. Replaced the plugs and got it started by pressing the pedal, it runs like that, but will not idle at all, and smokes like crazy. It's getting WAY too much fuel. For shits and giggles I even tried rutting the old FPR back on, same thing. Can the fuel pump break in a manner that delivers too much fuel? I was planning on getting that rebuilt soon anyhow. But i want to rule out anything else first. All I disconnected was the fuel injectors and the fuel lines. Advice, opinions, ridicule? Thanks guys.

Well if your engine is original you should have an N47 head. As far as mods go, take care of the intake and exhaust, then just look around Motorsportauto.com for fun stuff.

Is the timing chain on? Possible it's binding in the front cover? Good luck.

I'd say just chop it down.

I have a front bumper in storage, mounting tab for a turn signal is broken though.

Front or rear?

Hahaha, yeah, that seems to be the way of it. Check the trans fluid level. Make sure the timing is set properly. Bring down the idle while its in neutral to a respectable RPM. Then see what happens when you put it in gear. Also see if there is anything catching the throttle cable. On 2 of my old Z31's the plastic sleeve around the throttle cable, right at the throttle body, broke apart and caused issues. And make sure that it's not adjusted too tight (pulling the throttle open while the pedal is up) And my final thoughts on it, swap a manual in there!

Yeah, that bolt hid from me the fist time too. Sometimes these valve covers get cooked on the heads good and tight. Few light smacks with a rubber mallet should to the trick.

^Word.

This section is making me miss my 88. She's been sitting in my friends back yard since my ex blew the head gasket after driving it though the mountains with no coolant. Closing in on a year pretty quick. Poor car. I just got my 75 back on the road, and as soon as I'm done with a few more things on her, I'll be cracking on the 'ol Z31. Motor needs a light rebuild, and I'll be turboing it while I'm at it. I figure I have all the turbo conversion parts sitting in storage so I might as well put them to use finally, right.

Yeah, we need some details! I'll have a little more time for the site here now that mine is running.

I would not recommend synthetic on an L series engine. Conventional oils, and a good filter, and a magnetic drain plug for good measure.

Oh yeah, the tail light seals are the same material as the rear windows. Removing all the rear interior trim is somewhat bothersome, so might as well do it all at once right. As for the timing belt. Peace of mind is priceless. might as well replace it if your tearing apart the top end for the lifters anyway. Just be very careful not to let the clips in the lifters fly away. They're tricky little bastards sometimes. And if you are interested in buying a set of already rebuilt lifters let me know. I've got a spare set sitting in the garage and I already have half of them done and can get the other half done whenever.