morbidsunroof

Oil in a stud hole is bad. Fluid is non compressible. It will cause a false torque in best case and a cracked block in worst. BLOW OUT ANY FLUID before assembly. Stravi should be OK albeit with a shorter life expectancy for the gasket. Nick

Severely retarded timing will do the same thing.

I don't know about the tach but the symptoms match either a jumped timing chain (rare) or a plugged exhaust.

You guys are all spoiled. I've fixed WAY worse than that! Been forced to, as I live in Upstate NY. I've replaced floors and frames all the way to the radiator on three cars because they were fine on the interior and mechanically. Your call.... Nick

A valve that loose is barely opening. If ya got no gazinto, yer not gonna get any squeeze! Nick

It sounds to me like you just need to adjust the valves! That would eliminate the noise and equalize the comp. numbers. Nick

I hope this isn't too rude, but your car is wearing the wheels I've been looking at. What tire and wheel size are they and where did you order the wheels from? Thanks! Nick

Call their tech line! They may authorize a replacement. Nick

Sounds like A quality control issue at the factory...you'll have to reconnect the brown wire and cut a different one until you read 800-1000 rpm at idle. Maybe it's a bomb! ("Its always the BLUE wire!") lol. Nick

I just snuck in with this link http://www.xenonz31.com/s30/modifications.html Nick

The Mallory did the trick! Thanks! Nick

Best way fer me is to find a JOB first! BUT! I DO have a Mallory non vacuum with adjustable max that I'll be putting on right now! Nick

Thank you Lazeum! Gonna try sub stock timing and verify float level!

I installed a Flowmaster 44 and actually FELT a performance increase! It sounded good but had a nasty resonance that boxed my ears so I switched it to a rice oval that sounds quieter. Nick

When the budget allows, I'm going to try 145 & 185 to get rid of a mild knock at WOT and heavy load. I did end up actually square once (165 & 165) on the race car due to a pressurized airbox. Nick

Try this! Remove the orange cover and leave the filter and backing plate w/horns. Cut out a piece of diamond plate or engine turned aluminum slightly larger than the filter and bolt it up! It looks great and has low restriction! Nick

It was actually RICH. Went to 135 mains and it's now a rocketship! Still need to lean the idle more...

It will work fine as long as you use the same throwout bearing and collet that was on the 260. 280's have a shallower pressure plate and thus a longer throwout bearing/collet Nick

Hoping you can help? I just assembled a flattop > block w/ an N42 and triple 40DCOE's. With the > throttle plates closed, best idle is at 2k with 45 > f8 idle jets...went up to 160 mains and 175 air. > It pulls hard a 3/4 throttle, but at the mat, it > misses and goes flat. Waved the propane around > and don't see any leaks. I'm thinking it's alot > of compression for a stock cam, but I gotta > believe I can do better than this. Timing base set > at 10 deg. Plug check still indicate it might be > lean, but it's really hard to tell on pump gas. > If you can point me to a better jet scenario, I'd > appreciate it! Thanks!! > Nick

I set timing at 10 btdc. Some Mallory dizzys have adjustable "spread" and I have gone as high as 42 total in a race car. My favorite tuning aid is the MSD cockpit adj. timing control. With max total set at 46 and starting at 36, whack the knob briefly to max. while under hard pull in third. If power dips you are close to good but check for lean condition. If power spikes, you are probably too rich. Jet down the mains and repeat. I did all my jetting using VP C-12 as it doesn't leave junk on the plug that confuses the plug read. I was told by an Edelbrock engineer that pump gas is a recipe of garbage loaded with dissolvable solids that plate out on the plug (kinda like the lime buildup on the bottom of a teapot) If you see particles on the plug with VP, it is piston material. Ideally after a hard run, a new plug should look like it just came out of the box but under a magnifying glass, should have one teeny, shiny ball on it. For the street, I much prefer a vacuum advance dist.

Place crank at 10 deg. btdc. Verify rotor pointing in vicinity of number one on dist cap. With coil wire close to a ground, rotate dist. housing clockwise and observe spark (key on) Zero in on spark point and tighten dist. You are now timed +/- a degree at 10 deg. btdc

I have an R 180 that appears O.E. but is in the neighborhood of 4:70!!? and is limited slip. What the heck did it come out of and what is it worth? Nick