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supernova_6969

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Everything posted by supernova_6969

  1. supernova_6969
    Hey. Quick question. With a head like this, do you expect power gains accross the rpm band? Or would you expect mimimal gains low down but sigbificant ones high up, for example? Im just thinking whether a head like that would be good mostly for high revving racers or if it would be great for a street motor, giving it plenty of torque...
  2. supernova_6969
    Blackbell, make certain you post your results here. ESPECIALLY if all you do is change the turbo and retune it. Knowing everything else is the same, it would be a really awesome opportunity to see the difference made by the turbo alone, both in top trq/power but also to see the difference in curves, to see where the power comes on....
  3. supernova_6969
    Ok. So we're all in agreement. Back to dybo results! Thanks for helping and clarifying things, btw. That said its interesting to see that the stock engine with its stock turbo can make good power on a very fat torque curve EVEN THOUGH it's indersized.... I'm curious what a similar sized moden turbo could do (more efficient, different blade design)..
  4. supernova_6969
    Mmmm. I know im highjacking my own thread here with this train of thought, but i'll entretain it so we can close the case... So from the thread timz mentionned, seems like i was suggesting that the turbo hit its stonewall (too much engine flow for the turbo size, essentially). But i'm not certain that's the only thing you were pointing out, although i don't understand how surge would happen at wot while on the dyno.. I think i'm missing the point i'm supposed to get. Still talking about how blackbell's post talks about a car boosting 18psi 'till 3500rpm, then loosing boost to 10-12 psi. I don't get how a weak spring would allow going to 18 in the first place (maybe overboost, but not by 6psi?)and how a boost controler couldn't just deal with the wastegate problem... Please illuminate me.
  5. supernova_6969
    blackbell... so you are saying that the issue is not so much that the compressor can't flow enough, but hat the wastegate isn't strong enough to sustain that much boost... would'nt that be very simply resolved by having a boost controller valve? the stock wastegate actuator wouldn't ever see boost until it would get hit with the full whatever boost you choose, which would open it right away? anyone to weight in on this? with info or some personal experience?
  6. supernova_6969
    hey Xnke. Do you mean that as the RPM rises, the boost diminishes cause the engine breathes in so much air that the turbine can't give enough to maintain high boost? Would that be possible between 3800 and 4500 only (not even 1000 rpm, for a very significant drop in boost)? thanks!
  7. supernova_6969
    let it snow.. so, you essentially have a stock engine and a stock turbo, tuned up with a megasquirt and bigger injectors, and you got these amasing results? that is wicked. I like how the torque comes on strong all the way from 1700 rpm. I've been looking for a set up that has that type of curve. I have a t3-t4 that is only fully spooled around 3000 rpm, which makes everything under there a little underwhelming. quick question, why do you have different psi for peak torque and power? is it that you maxed power at 12 psi, and got more torque until 18, or am I misunderstanding something? thanks!
  8. supernova_6969
    I know you're looking for one, but you might be able to get a machine shop or a welding shop to add capacity to a stock pan for a very reasonable price... hell, if you're handy, you could do it yourself. or part of the job anyways. could fabricate the kick outs and just have someone weld them, or whatever else... good luck
  9. supernova_6969
    I'm actually genuinely curious! 100% no bad intention (I guess that makes it 0% bad intention but it does not have the same punch).
  10. supernova_6969
    Hey Derek. I'm stoked at your progress. are you planning on doing any individual cylinder tuning (although unless you have the fancy megasquirt, and multiple o2 sensors) not certain it's possible)? I'm asking because of the 6 pick ups being closer or farther from the car's body. that said, i'm not certain it's entirely necessary. Quick question about the rest of the engine.. is it stock, or almost stock? did you do any mods that would otherwise influence the power? I'm saying that because i'm curious as to the gains to be made by simply bolting the head on to a stock engine. finally, I'm curious about you running it without load. a lot of people say not to rev an engine without load. I looked it up quickly, and I've not found a basis for this, except for revving it till you hit or pass the redline. Now i know you're not going to blow it by over revving (then again i'd be curious as to what over-revving this head would be; at what RPM would you expect valve float to start? same as with the original honda head?).. i'm looking for reassurance about the safety of the procedure, not saying it's ba; I still am not informed enough to have an opinion. as to the idea of auto-tuning like that, it's pretty smart. Better than waiting for the thaw. I wish my car worked well enough o be able to do that! can't wait to hear about your first drive! keep up the good work!
  11. supernova_6969
    ok... the work you've done the progress reports you've provided have always been amazing. and that's the problem. i'm hooked and I'm joneseying... any news with regards to your 240z? Seb Ps: yeah it's pretty crazy to see all that is involved in the way you make the parts, as Vincer said... good work., nice expertise.
  12. supernova_6969
    Careless, do you mean tunbling an entire engine block or only the removeable parts?? Derek, feel free to hide this comment if you feel it's thread stealing. It IS pretty unrelated...
  13. supernova_6969
    Hey guys. So i was rummaging through my cars glove box and i found this dyno sheet fron the previous owner... From what he had told me whe. I bought it the car was stock except for msII and a bigger turbo. Here is the info i guess, to follow my own rukes. 1- 280zx 1983 2- Stock engine with megasquirt II and T3/T4 turbo 3-235hp @ 5000rpm @ 8-10lbs boost not sure then.. Thats now) 4-265ft/lbs @ 4400rpm @ 8-10lbs boost not sure then.. Thats now) 5- msII, dyno tuned.. 6- nothing i could tell 7- I think that engine was on its third body. No idea of mileage.
  14. supernova_6969
    Hi! I'm looking for a non-cracked (duh) steering rack boot (right side, not that it matters I think) for my 1983 280zx. I've seen some on ebay, new, for about 30$ shipped... looking for something to beat that price, used is obviously fine. reply here or email me direct Supernova_6969@hotmail Thanks PS: I live in canada (postal code J5B 1E3)
  15. supernova_6969
    first thing, it looks bitchin'. the flocking, as you said it did, looks like smooth velvet. very nice job. everything else looks great too. hell, I wish I had a first gen body and 5000$ just so I could pay you to make me one of everything... with that done, the rear done, the front pretty much done (I think) and the engine running well enough, what have you got left to do before you can put it all together and drive it out (not in winter obviously)?
  16. supernova_6969
    that looks FANTASTIC. good colour choice. man.. really really nice... that fact that the firing order numbers are dark makes them stick out less, which hides the spacing problem.. good idea.
  17. supernova_6969
    I've been looking at your photos, and i have a questions. from what I understand, flocking usually ends up with a velvety, fluffy texture.. when i look at your parts (which is very nice in it's look and even-ness, I have to say) it almost looks reflective and hard. almost like it was little bits of plastic or some kind of hard, wrinkly dense layer instead of stand up fabric-y.... is it the photos, or am i seeing right? that said, if it is, it's not an issue.. it's not ugly or anything, just more industrial.. also, a side question, are you afraid the top part of the doors might wear out,m from frequent arm-resting and using it to pull/push the doors opened and closed? how sturdy does the finish feel to you?
  18. supernova_6969
    Cool that everything stock seems to fit. How are you planning on making the tabs stick? Some kind of epoxy? And are you planning on doing some lightening of the metal frame? Seems like a shame to loose a ton of wwight in the console but keep the heavy frame.. Btw how much weight did you save with the carbon console??
  19. supernova_6969
    it totally makes sense. I've read all the posts, but I didn't remember everything. I do remember issues you had with the front insert... I'm with you about the customization. you want to be able to set it up however you want. the tray you just made is really nice, but have you considered making a cover that can serve as a elbow-rest, kindof like the 280zxs? s.
  20. supernova_6969
    small question.. why wasn`t the console made in one piece?
  21. supernova_6969
    zeeboost. that is interesting... what did you end up doing with the bumper? kept it like that or modded it more? a bumper like that one is at least symmetrical and an insert could be made the whole width. Mine's bottom is slanted, it looks weird. looks like it droops... nice idea...
  22. supernova_6969
    Hi giys. Thanks for the replies. I'd thought of side by side pipes, but the issue is i have no budget for anything, including replacing a fully functional muffler.. That said, i could fab a y and then two exhaust tips but i'd feel like a poser.... One of the ricer guys with a 4 inch tip stuck on a 1 1/2 pipe.... Although, i have to say the photo that evoog posted looks mighty fine. Much, much better than i thought it would. Evoog is that yours? What diameter are the individual tips? So that is one good looking solution. Anyone else has any other ideas? Any creative stuff to make the hole look smaller? S.
  23. supernova_6969
    Hi! My car came with a body kit that's not half bad, but the kit has got to have the ugliest muffler-hole (what's a proper name for this?) ever made (and muffler tip too but that i know how to fix)... I need suggestions on how i can fix this both on a "what would look good" level, but also on a "how to fabricate it" (basic ideas, not detailed instructions". I'm thinking is a proper straight muffler tip, not some ugly limp-d*** look for starters, but i'm stuck for the bumper. I thought maybe a black plastic cover with a smaller half circle hugging the muffler tip, but it'd be way too big an insert, i think it would look funny.... Ideas, anyone? Picts if you've seen people doing nice things, if you have them.. Thanks!!! Seb
  24. supernova_6969
    thanks madkaw.. Knowing this, Derek that's pretty amazing work... I mean, your work is amazing, period, but these results are wicked.
  25. supernova_6969
    Out of curiosity, could anyone post flow bench results from datsun stock heads? I'm curious to see how this head flows compared to stock even in this basic state, but i have no comparison point....
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