supernova_6969

Hi. Loooking at the chart, that engine is a beast! Must feel like a rocket from 2500rpm onwards! Im not certain i understand your post completely, though.. Are you talking about engines, or one engine with two different confoguration (n42 mild port vs n42 pro port, one or the ither turbo...). Sorry if im being dense.... Thanks for posting thought. And i appreciate the amount of details... ****EDIT: oh crap. I was looking at it on my phone originally. It made VERY little sense. just looked at it on a computer and it makes all the sense in the world. thanks for the additional data though!!

Hi. How would i go about adding a post after my original post but before the first reply? Its a post where i want to gather information and i just realised that i should kept a spot to list ressource that others name through the post... Here it is... http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/125246-resources-people-and-shops-around-montreal-qc/?fromsearch=1 Not certain if its possible and i should have thoight about it in the firat place, but hindsight is always 20/20... Thanks

bump

ok. I can't say if this is true, but this page (http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/head.htm) says that there are various e88 heads and that some of them sucked.... I found other places that say that the intake valve are slightly bigger on the p90a. from what I remember, the p90a hall have hydraulic lifters. in terms of maintenance, that's pretty cool (no valve lash adjustments. ever). on the other hand, the p90a head has a significantly lower compression ratio that the early heads.. that would definately play when considering both current power and future mods.... there is tons of onfi online.. you might even be able to find flow bench results if you dig deep. if you have specialty shops around, id' give them a call to, just for fun. oh, and if you're selling the car, just offer the head with it for an extra, don't bother unless you're really into giving yourself trouble for fun. oh. I just found this page. pretty comprehensive http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/4286-overview-of-l6-engine-heads/

hi! I had a mustang with an engine (that I rebuilt) that would make a rattling/ticking sound under certain circumstances. couldn't find it, and mechanics couldn't... one told me it sounded like it could be a bracket that I forgot to secure that vibrated only at a certain RPM/vibration combo. drove it like that for 2-3 years, never gave me issues. . not saying this is the case for you, but i'd check if everything is screwed in tight just in case.hope it's nothing.

ok, so I adjusted my valves. I did it cold, with the help of my dad (thanks!). ran the car and one valve was making noise, son I ran back home and checked them all and 3 needed a slight readjustment. don't know if we did it wrong in the first place, but it shows that doing it cold isn't all that bad, since most of them WERE ok and the others possibly wrong due to human error (my dad is much more confident than I am, and doesn't quadruple check everything..) I ran it for a minute, no more noise. for the record, I used what the manual said: 0.008/0.010 cold, and 0.010/0.012 hot. seems the number for the cold ones translate well to hot.... Also, to rotate the engine, I used the big bolt that holds the timing chain sprocket. no need to rotate a wheel or get under the car. I think there is a difference in performance, but it's still far from perfect. I checked the plugs in between the two adjustments, and #5 seemed better, but #6 was still much more dirty than the others (I'd put in ones that were clean before setting out. I'll have to re-check the plugs in a few days to see if the last adjustment did anything. I'll post then. thanks for everyone who chimed in so far. I really appreciate.

NewZed thanks for the advice.. Since i'd never done it, I was going to stick to the shop manual procedure; reading the manual, I thought it only gave hot values (clearances I 0.25mm(0.010) E 0.30mm(0.012)), so i thought that was the only way, but I just found that the manual also gives the values for a cold engine (I 0.17mm(0.007) E 0.024(0.009). In the end, I understand the process and will most likely follow your procedure. the manual seems to suggest doing the valves when the engine is warm rather than cold: out of curiosity, any reason to do it hot rather than cold? If I get them right cold, what are the chances of the differences getting the valve lash wrong once it's hot? another thing is that everywhere I see, they give cold values for I 0.008 and E 0.009 instead of the ones i quote from the 1982 or 1983 manual. i'm not certain which values I should use... the hot values are the same though.

ok, ok! *roll eyes and smiles* I've actually started the process of find TDC for cyl 1 & 4 to be able to adjust the valves, but I don't have a 27mm socket to rotate the engine, and I need a helper to rotate said engine from under while I check for TDC through the spark plug holes. I'm looking into both matters as we speak, so it should be done within days. While I am nervous, I know it's a straightforward process, so I actually can't wait to do it.

one thing you can try is plugging the pump straight to the battery for a test (with a fuse). if the pump works, you know the issue is the original wiring. if the pump does not work any better, you know something is wrong with the pump. maybe the pump has a hard time pumping when under load, but without load (say, on your bench to test it), it runs fine.. I think another thing you could do is test the load (amperage) that is being used by the pump. if it's straining, I believe you'd get a lot of amps. don't quote me on this though, and look up the numbers you're supposed to get online.

a few things could be done to test out the various potential issues... -first I'd check what pressure is in the fuel rail; maybe your regulator is dead that you're super rich... also, maybe your return line is clogged, which would do the same thing. -second, i'd check to see if the injectors are working, as NewZed suggested.. you probably know about putting a screwdriver on them and listening for the clicks.. if you're particularly daring, you can leave the injectors wired and on the rail, but disconnect the lot from the engine, then put a container under each injector and have an assistant turn the key this way. you'll see if your injectors are pulsing properly. it's a little cow-boy, but can't beat the data from it. -third, basked on luseboy, i'd unplug the pump, and run a wire straight from the battery (with a big fat fuse) to the pump, and try to run the engine that way. if the pump wiring shorts something out, that'll stop the short and have your fuel pump working.

Tonight (tuesday the 26th), I: -checked my distributor and the cap is clean, the rotor is clean, and there appears to be no play in the shaft. (I also cleaned the slight white buildup inside the cap on the "posts"(?)). there was no carbon tracking in there, which would have been real bad news. -checked the plug wires and all the plugs get current (I saw and heard the current jump from the wire to the plug when I unplugged each of the plugs and the engine ran rough, although I think it's less marked (the roughness) when I remove number 6. something is definitely going on there) -I checked the injector wiring and it it all seems to work the way it's supposed to. I also unplugged the injectors one at a time, and the idle got rough at every injector. so... yeah. i'll check the valves. soon. unless someone suggests something else less daunting, which I will do soonER..

hi! thanks for the replies. when I mean fouled, I meant indeed that the porcelain insulator is no longer white. I though that significant fouling led to the lack of insulation, not that fouling necessarily implied so much of it that it automatically shorted the plug. these plugs are new; I put them in about 3 kilometers ago and then drove 1.5 kms; that's when i checked them for the first time and got clean 1-2-3-4 and dirty 5 and very dirty 6. thinking the injectors might be the culprits, i switched the injectors from 3-4 (that had kept their plugs clean) to 5-6 and switched the plugs also so that 3-4-5-6 all have clean plugs, then drove the same 1.5 kms. got the same result. the then clean plugs in 5-6 were now dirty and very dirty. the original 5-6 plugs that I just threw away were completely covered with dry, sooty carbon, except there was a ton of it, like #5-7 in this photo (not my plugs, just an example) https://encrypted-tbn3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcR7YkGUmE45SSo_WA3OnouMHPZVhMmUyYjwWZQGqvJqzEjuZeh2_A) as for the o2 readings, I've been trying to tune it but was afraid to lean it out in case one of my cylinders wasn't getting any gas - I figured i'd keep everything mostly as is until I figured out why some the engine was misbehaving so much. I know it's not great, but it's better than blowing a cylinder because of a lean detonation. the sensor is a standard innovate Lc1, and the readings with the car turned off overnight (100% normal air) are right so i'm not too worried about it's readings. the exhaust does smell rich, so it's consistent with a rich O2 reading (I get 9:1 when I'm flooring it, which is where the tables tell it to be much richer anyways, and 12:1 on iddle, where the tables are a little better tuned...). I guess if I still get wacky readings after all my plugs are of the same happy colour, i'll look into the sensor.. timz: re: oil past the valves, wouldn't I get a more wet fouling? and yes, gasoline, 94 octane. Xnke: I'm with you, and checking the valve is on top of the list but I have a question.. how could gas get through the improperly adjusted valve, but not enough air (assuming the path to the valve is clear)? as for the full read of the plugs, I think eventually I should do a more advanced read, but for now, I really want to figure out that whole 5-6 are on a different planet than 1-4. tonight, I might check the distributor to make certain everything is clean and allows for good currant flow. to be honest, I'm scared shitless of adjusting the valves, so i'll do it last. one way or the other, thanks for the posts... and the ideas somewhat align with some of my hypotheses, so that's encouraging. stay tuned.

hi guys! I have this L28 turbo, megarsquirt 2 car that i bought already built (engine rebuilt 1000kms before I bought it). the guy told me all i had to do was tune the tables and it'd be great (last time I buy an already modified car). It ran really rough, idled poorly, and did weird things under boost (boost, drop boost, reboost, etc). the AFR was all over the place (both too rich and too lean). I changed the plug wires (which leaked current everywhere), played a lot with the tune a lot with somewhat better AFRS overall (still very rich though, with intermittent issues) Long story short, i decided to change the plugs (yeah yeah, should have right away, screw me, I'm on a tight budget) and I tested and cleaned the injectors, which function well. first run after that, I let it idle till it was warm, then took it out for a 5 minute spirited drive (with 3-4 times running full boost for 2-3 seconds), then back home. I checked the plugs right away and I found this: the plugs are in the following order: 6-5-4-3. essentially, the plug 6 is very dry-fouled, plug fire dry-fouled, and plug 1-2-3-4 are super clean, like new still. looking into the matter, I tested compression, and I have 170+ in all cylinders. neither 5 or 6 are the lowest of the bunch. I thought maybe the injectors (which are batch fired 1-2-3 and 4-5-6) had a problem even if I had tested them, so tonight I switched the plugs and the injectors around so the 5-6 got the clean plugs and the injectors from cyl 3-4. I did the same run and got the exact same results: plug 6 is very dry-fouled, plug fire dry-fouled, and plug 1-2-3-4 are super clean, like new still. I'm thinking it could be one of the three following issues: -somehow cyl 5-6's inj. are not getting proper current and might be staying open for too long or something (which I think is unlikely, since it's batched with 4 as well and that guy's cool). -maybe something is wrong with the spark. either the distr. is faulty, or the wires (even if the wires are are new) and 5 and 6 aren't getting good spark. (i'm thinking the coil is fine, since 1-4 have no issues) -maybe my valves are poorly adjusted and creating issues (they are a little noisy, although the high compression suggest they should be mostly fine. I'm going to look into these issues, but does anyone have other suggestions? one thing to mention is the engine runs REALLY rich right now (betwen 9:1 under boost and 12:1) i know it's an issue and i plan on working on this, but that's not the problem for the fouling or else ALL my plugs would be similarly fouled (I guess). any suggestions is more than appreciated. I'll post as i test things..

Wouldn'it work to simply ground these potentially troublesome sensors on the block at the same place you ground your megasquirt? While the potential would be the same, at least the current wouldn't go throught the computer itself (shortest route is right to the block)... I know improper grounding has an impact on O2 sensors; when i hooked mine up, i had to play with the output values to get a reading in the megasquirt that was similar to that of the physical gauge. Went away when i re-grounded the sensor better and i was able to use proper stock signal out of my lc-2. (Not sure if the O2 sensors ground wire is involved into the circuit that pulls power to warm the sensor up.. If so that might wreak havok on everything by pulling all sorts of power backwards...)

Thanks a million guys. I'm not certain as to when I'll get to do this (I have to find some significant issue with fuel/ignition with my 5-6 cylinders, then change the oil (ideally take the pan off and re-gasket it and more) but i'll definitely post results when i do.. oh, and to induce knock at low RPM, I guess all I have to do it to advance timing to unreasonable levels in one of the boxes on my table, and it'll just register as a ping?

Hey! Thanks for the quick reply. I get everything you said except for what you mean by sensor return in the ms. Would the sensor return be a ground in the ms or something else? I'm sorry if this is a noob question, i didnt set the car up myself and i'm learning as i go. Thanks!!

hi! seattle jester you beat me to the question... so, Namor, one of the lead to the engine block, the other one to.. and oscilloscope or the megasquirt, I guess.. and If I don't get anything, I switch them up? Namor, quick, unrelated questions. the oscilloscope, did you follow instructions to set it up? if so, which ones and how much trouble was it? thanks!

Oh! sorry, I misunderstood what you meant. yeah, wouldn't want to have blow the engine just to set up a knock sensor, no. one question that I have though is about the physicality of the wiring; the gm sensor that the megamanual recomends has only one wire, which goes to a gismo, which then only sends one wire to the MSII. the stock nissan sensor has two poles. anyone know what goes in and out of it? I'm guessing one might be positive and the other one the signal, although from what I know, a piezo electric crystal wouldn't need a positive, unless the sensor has electronics to boost the signal. anyone know how to test the sensor? like, how to make it talk without inducing knock on purpose in the actual engine? I could then test one pole or the other to see what is the output...

Hi. Jester Thanks for the reply. By low load, do you mean low electrical load, i.e. very faint signal, or do you mean that the sensor would only work when the car is being handled gently? I read somewhere (megamanual?) ms2 can use knock sensor outpout and that you need to give it an upper rpm limit ir else it's going to think parts of the mechanical noises is pinging.. Just not certain how i would wire out the sensor and make it work... ( if the stock sensor coukd even soeak the same language)

hi! I recently found out my engine has a knock sensor on it, unplugged and unsused. I have a megasquirt II ecu. I was wondering if anyone had managed to hook up the stock sensor to a MSII, or if I'd have to forget about it? thanks! s

one thing you could do is change the wires on three of the cylinders to wires that won't connect. this way, you get an immediate 50% cut in hp. I'd pick every other cylinder in the firing order to make it somewhat even. not great fort he engine, but... faster and less complicated. you could retard the timing a lot if you have a distributor, but that might make your exhaust louder. also not great. you could put a very restrictive air filter(s). that might help. something very small, or somehow blocked off.... unless they can force you to test without filters..

bump...?

Come on tony... You can say that and not give more details. What a cliffhanger!

Z-ya. That sounds like an engine that must have been fun to drive. Plenty of torque (at least as of 4000 rpm) and hp.... Thanks!!

I feel stupid, but what could a "something" be to make a head flow? Are we talking a turbo to help air along, say, or a set or specially designer headers (yours are kickass, i'd sacrifice 20hp for them!!!)?