gmac708

I did try using this one at work. http://www.eastwood.com/airless-plastic-welder-model-6.html We used it for interior part repairs. It was very smelly, but seemed to do the trick. I was not very good at it but some of the other guys repairs turned out quite nice. It came with a bunch of different type plastic welding rods.

I got the Bad Dog seat brackets along with the frame rails. I think you could salvage the old ones. I would attach to seat and tack weld them in place. You could also make a fixture to hold them parallel. I measured stock seat attachment to stock tracks at 12 7/8 wide and 12 5/8 front to back measured at the hole center. Once you decide where to put the forward mounts, the rears are pretty easy. I ended up cutting the BD seat brackets (forward and aft) down about 1 inch to gain some extra headroom. Here is picture of rear bracket and how much I cut off. You could do the same with the stock brackets too. I made my seat tracks from Jegs kit. I wanted dual locking tracks (required for some racing and not a bad idea) but did not like the Jegs cable system that came in kit. The arm had to be on the outside of seat to pull cable. so...I made it have a push rod instead. Now the arm is in the center. Mounted to seat... Removed from seat and attached to floor mounts and tack welded... I had spacers from stock seats on top for more room. I ended up removing them but you could always use them for fine tuning the angle of the seat. Those things are very handy. Seat attached... Hope this helps. Not that hard at all Gord

I'm thinking it best to match up with the Intake manifold. Greddy is 4". Stock is 3.25". I just tried to transition from 3" FMIC to 4" intake.

3" on the left and 3.5" on the right. 3" elbows welded on FMIC.

Nice job on the recovery tank synthtk I still need to add that and a drain valve. What hoses did you end up using? Here's what I got so far.

A radiator with inlet and outlet on same side and cooling passages that run side to side is called a double pass radiator. The end tank with the inlet and outlet on it has an internal wall seperating the top and bottom. The only way the water can flow, is to pass across the core to the opposite tank, then pass back across to the other outlet (double pass). See the welded section on R/H side below shows the seperation. I think the water would simply bypass the core unless you seperated the two outlets. Maybe your on to something...a double "bypass"... Gord

I used a lap joint around the perimeter of the floor pan. The etching and primer is done, now I will use a two part mix seam sealer. 3M makes a few different kinds of sealer, the application gun and nozzles look a little expensive. I also have access to a few two part sealers that are used in the aviation industry. I might end up using that.

The Bad Dog (BD) are bigger and fit over stock or Zedd frame rails. Here is picture of BD over stock. I chose to leave out the stock / Zedd and just go with the BD. Here are some photo's during the install of the Bad Dog frame rails. Hope this helps

http://www.randysracemart.com/prcdopara.html I got the 24" wide and it fits in between the frame rails. You will need to weld mounts. Probably too late to make the races on friday...

Well... They did have a few holes in them, some areas were pretty thin. It looked like the floors rusted from the inside-out. It might have been moisture from wet carpet or something. The photo's don't really show it and I never took any pictures specifically of it. I did stare at them for quite a while, trying to figure the easiest way out, eventually figured, WTF ?!?! I planned on adding the Bad Dog frame rails because of the RB swap, it didn't seem like that much more work to replace the floors. It really isn't that hard to do. (except for the burning skin and hair from welding upside-down)

here ya go

That is really cool. I wanted to buy a rotisserie but ended up not doing it because of the cost. I spent many days under the Z, replacing the floor pans and adding the frame rails. I wish I had made a set like you did. Great job!

Mich pilot sport AS plus 225/50ZR-16 front 245/50ZR-16 rear

I have had mine in and out a few times and found it not too hard to do as an assembly however... Removing shift lever and harmonic balancer makes it easier.

I ended up leaving more material by slotting the tower and removing as little as possable. It is amazing how many other ways that people have done this. There are a few out there with the "backing" plate mounted on top. My directions did not include a template. I still have to do the rears, and I maybe looking for your template

I went with the Modern Motorsports / S12W calipers / Watanabe's and needed 16mm spacers. I ended up getting BAER billets from Summit racing http://www.summitracing.com/search/?keyword=baer%20wheel%20spacer&dds=1 I needed to have a machine shop turn the centers a little bigger because the MM hubs were a little too big. Everything ended up OK

I'm thinkin'...more pictures please

http://www.zccjdm.com/catalog.php/azcarbum/dt43199/pd1055561/KAMEARI_PERFORMANCE_SEATING Kameari seats, they are sooooooo comfy. Call Brian at Z car custom

Yes, had to check.

I still have a long way to go, but I'm getting closer to the finish. I can't wait to drive it

15 1/8 " 1970 240Z Hope that helps Gordon

I agree, It still is a little low on the exhaust side, even with the shim. Looks like the engine is leaning, note horizontal split in timing belt cover should be level. It was way off without the shim. Gordon

A little update of the Rips oil pan. Well... the Rips pan has been installed. I decided to add 3/8" shim to driver side Mckinney mount to add a little more clearance of the steering rack. Sump sits perfectly level.

Cool That's what I plan on doing too...leaving it stock (for now). Great job!

Did you find a set? I have a set w/rotors and calipers off a 1970 240Z