gmac708

More familiar with the RB26 but it looks like...That big hose on the "T" on the back of the block should go to the car heater. My guess is (can't see in photo) that it is now hooked up to where the other hose that used to go to the heater used to connect (you described as large tube next to thermostat). My guess is that the heater has been bypassed by connecting the two fittings together. This will cause the water to circulate around internally. This is not good. The heater water system normally bypasses the thermostat and gets it's heated water ASAP but should not be left wide open. Your water pump is probably sucking heated water back in from that "T", and not from the radiator (path of least resistance) Just a guess... for troublshooting purposes only, try to plug or block that hose by clamping it shut (vise grips). This should cause the water pump to draw the water from radiator after thermostat opens and not from the back of the block. That other small line on the back that is plugged used to hook up to old intake manifold and most likely has a corresponding plugged line up front. Just a guess. Gord

I just finished up mine a few weeks ago. I like the rubber flapper idea.. Maybe later. Gord

...that was easy Now for the fun part And then cover it up... I am not quite finished yet but it looks like it will work. Keep it as high as you can. Remote fuel fill would still be an option (hidden behind license plate). I am going to shave original fuel cap fill door. I hope that helps. Gord

I modified the right side by moving the nutplate back about 1" and removing the unwanted part of the support. That would leave me enough room. The tranny mount is actually in the same location it used to be, just bolted in a different place.

I replaced the floors and the mounts (stock or Mckinney) fit the car perfect. My only problem was the speedo drive was in the way and was pushing engine over to the drivers side. Now everything is centered.

I had the same problem with the Mckinney mounts. I removed the speedo drive out of the right side of the tranny and everything fit. I ended up cutting the front corner out of the mount on the right side to accommodate the extra room needed for the speedo drive. Before... After... The tunnel might be a little spread out as well. Try and pull the two sides together. Hope this helps Gord

Looks like things are moving along. I have found that soaking parts in a coffee can filled with automatic transmission fluid (new or used) will usually eat away at most corroded parts. Sometimes it works, sometimes it does not, that's the problem with the old cars. Be careful with your brake parts as the brake fluid has a nasty habit of absorbing moisture and corroding everything from the inside. You don't want to get too cheep here, being the brakes and all. A small pinhole can render your whole brake system useless in the most inopportune moment. Looking good and keep us posted. More pictures please!

I'm sort of doing the same thing with my 1970Z. I'm keeping the RB26DETT stock for now but don't want to limit the top end when I upgrade so... Aeromotive stealth fuel cell w/eliminator fuel pump 40 micron filter And presently working on -8 (1/2 inch) SS fuel lines. I wanted fuel lines that can support 500+HP and run them outside the car. Aluminum tubing supports the pressure but what about corrosion and rocks and damage. I could have used steel braided lines but the OD is bigger and need more clamps and support. So...I'm with you... Gord

Wow! that is awsome! I need time to play with this. Very cool

When I purchased my RB26, it came with an additional temp and oil pressure xmitter adapter plate installed between the oil filter and the mount. Looks like somebody else thought it was a good enough place to take temp and pressure.

I think I know what you are talking about. I had to disconnect the top of the strut, lower it down a few inches and swing it out, so I could get that extra bit of room to slide the axle in. I suppose you could unbolt the inboard pivot of the lower control arm and swing the whole assembly out. That has to be easier than to mod the axle. Everything ended up OK, lots of room. I could still compress the spring pushing the axle and it wasn't bottoming out. Does this help?

4 X 114.3 is the bolt pattern (four lugs at 114.3 mm spacing) If you actually convert 114.3 mm to inches you get 4.5". stprasinz I just posted info and pictures this on another post about 16 X 9 wheels http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=159323 (look way down at the bottom), but your clearance for the S12W calipers depends on what rims you end up with. I am running Wats and used .625" spacers. You can always shim with washers to make sure, measure the washer stack, and then order the correct dimension ones. That way they are perfect.

I used .625 Baer spacer so the Wats would clear the brake caliper. I don't think you would need it for Arizona Z caliper...not sure. The inner diameter of the spacer needed to be machined out to 2.85" (72mm) to clear MM wheel hub as well...seems there's always something. And those are Kameari seats.

Watanabe 16x9 -13 offset (front) 225/50ZR-16 Mich Pilot Sport AS plus Watanabe 16x9.5 -19 offset (rear) 245/50ZR-16 Mich Pilot Sport AS plus without flares with Haven't had a chance to try them out yet, but they have been tested and compare well with other performance tires. Hope this helps.

Nice work Tanuki. You are moving along very fast. Love the updates. Are you going to use a seal around the outside of the fender flare? How did you secure the rear spoiler?

#2 to turbo. Make sure you get fitting with restricter. Here are some links I found helpful. Not familiar with T78. http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=tp&Category_Code=ATP-OIL2 http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/advcat.asp?CategoryID=PLUMADAPMETRIC&iorb=4764&utm_source=Sponsored%2BSearch&utm_medium=PPC&utm_campaign=BROI http://www.aptuning.net/Turbo_Fittings_s/158.htm I'm not sure about #1. It is a pipe thread.

Correct. You could even plug/cap both of #1 and #3 and drain into the oil pan if you welded a bung on side of pan. All the same.

Here is what I'm pretty sure came with the RB26DETT Oil supply had a "T" fitting in block. This shows restricter in Banjo bolt. The hole in the end is way bigger than the hole up inside the bolt. I'd say the restricter hole is about .030" or less (I did not measure it). And the water supply. These stock "T" fittings have Concave seats, so if you plan on using the stock "t" fittings and need adapters for AN type hoses... I used Male 14 X 1.5 MM Metric concave seat to 6AN Male steel p/n 3276-004 for water. Male 12 X 1.0 MM Metric concave seat to 4AN Male aluminum p/n 3276-020 for oil. At Pegasus. Or...you could just try and get adapters that screw into block and go AN fittings all the way. I hope this helps. Gord

I would go with red too. Great job, looks awsome.

#1 oil return from turbo #2 oil supply to turbo #3 oil return from turbo #4 water from turbo. This also T's to that line that wraps around front. #5 boost pressure to waste gate actuators #6 sense line from turbo inlet to boost pressure control solenoid. Your water supply line is just below the back two exhaust ports. Hope that helps.

Here is picture of McKinney mounts / RB26 in 70 Z. Please note that the aluminum 3/8" spacer or shim is installed on the exhaust side (I will be using a full washer type spacer later). I did this to achieve the desired clearance for the RIPS pan. Notice that the front belt cover split line (where the two halves meet) is almost horizontal or level. I think that is the angle of the engine block you want.

Looks like you'll have your hands full Rob. What a beast! What's the fastest you have done the 1/4 in and what do you think the dragster will turn?

Hey wizard. I am also located in central ohio, doing RB swap. I had the same issue with steering rack and block clearance using the McKinney mounts. I ended up shimming engine mount. Everything fitting together now. PM me if you want to come over and have a look.

Wow, pretty impressive. Awsome work.