Stealth-Z

I have built and installed three 16 camera systems from components purchased from this place. Camera's can be viewed with internet explorer anywhere. http://www.palmvid.com/

I could use two. The Rhino liner method may be a route I try on my third spare.

Mid way through this thread (Legit240SX) is the only one I have ever seen. http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=127233&page=19

You should hook up with Jack, the creator of the Primadonna Z's. He has a NSX and has been thinking about doing something to it. He is located in the South San Francisco area.

Multiple ways to do it. I end up moving motors around by myself all the time. Nylon Rope works. If you can tow a car with it why not lift a motor? You might find it easier to remove the pan and all the internals. Bolt the crank girdle back on. As for the engine stand. They can hold the weight. Mine is attached using RB20 main bolts.

Forget the top....Roadster!!! Back to the TABCO subject. Count me in for 2+2 rear Quarter Panels. Both my Fairlady Z's have some sort of damage by either collision or rust.

I am just trying to get the correct information to build a RB30/26 motor. There is so much misinformation out there to make your head spin off. RIPS has been successfully building them for years. I have no doubt about it. In August 2007 I purchased a timing belt and tensioner / idler kit from him. It came with directions on where to relocate the the tensioner stud. I purchased it knowing it was a proven application. In all my searching, I have still not found the answer to what sort of specs people use with these motors. My local sources are all what many say are old school racers from the 60's and 70's. They believe in measuring tolerances and want to get the best quench possible to squeeze out every last bit of horsepower. They take into account piston rock and valve clearances. The machinist that cut my pistons does machine work for AeroJet, a company that does research and development of rocket motors and other aerospace projects. But these motors are not the same technology. The machinist that did the valve job questioned the differences between the valve lash of the intake and exhaust. On RB26's the exhaust side runs a closer tolerance than the intake. It is backwards to someone who builds domestic (GM, Ford, Mopar, ect.) heads. In hind sight I should have just purchased flat top pistons and be done with it. My question's still remains though. What sort of deck height should I be running them at? Below deck? Zero? or above? What is an acceptable piston to cylinder head measurement? Are these motors not susceptible to detonation the same way the old 60's and 70's stuff is with today's fuel?

There is a Nissan production RB24 motor in the Philippine export Cefiro. It is supposed to be a RB25 block with an RB20 crank and a RB30SOHC head with a carburator. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=99905&highlight=philippines Might be a better way to go than messing around with the RB20 block.

They are around and sometimes show up when you least expect.

Finally ready to start assembling my motor. Work is keeping me busy, I feel fortunate to have a job these days. Block now has a fresh coat of paint. Rotating assembly ready to assemble. I am taking my time measuring out the ring end gaps.

Bryan aka 1 fast z makes nice aluminum radiators. He made one for me with right side hose connections. http://www.bandmzcars.com/NewRadiatorPage.html

Bryan aka 1 fast z makes nice aluminum radiators. He made one for me with right side hose connections. http://www.bandmzcars.com/NewRadiatorPage.html

Since your location is Sacramento, go to Mattz Garage and have him build and install a nice VG30DETT setup for you. http://www.mattzgarage.com/index.html

It comes down to the cashier and what their mood is at the time. You can tell when someone is in a bad mood when parts are stacked up around the counter.

Are you sure about the RB26 pistons sticking out of the block? I thought they had a lower compression height. Something around 1.18. When I took this photo, the RB26 pistons had a lower compression height than the stock RB30e.

This piston thing started for me July 2006! Here is the threat for the first set of pistons from Wieseco. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=112975&highlight=wiseco After installing and measuring the above fore mentioned pistons, February 2007. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=135307&highlight=rb30+measure Asking what compression calculators people are using, June 2008 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=135307&highlight=rb30+measure I have asked for technical assistance. Not trying to reinvent the wheel here. Hopefully the above threads are clear on that. Cutting the pistons down, yes, it added a bit of complexity to the whole thing. My choice was get new pistons or work with what I have. The dome looks that way because of the way the pistons were forged. Wiseco pushed up the dome from the inside. I could not simply shave off the top of the dome and retain adequate thickness. Yes, CP now makes off the shelf pistons. Put a set of flat tops in and what do you get for a CR? You still have to measure all the parameters.

I have two RB26 heads. One measured 64cc's and the other 66cc's. I measured multiple times. Z-Monster, I never looked at VG pistons. What are the specs on them? I know the heads have a smaller chamber volume than the RB's. If they have a dished like appearance, you will not like the CR numbers. Using flat top pistons in my current configuration would give me 7.8:1.

It figured out to be around 9.75:1 with the 66cc chamber volume on the one head. The torque plate is mine. I am eventually going to trade it for tuning work once the motor is built and ready to run. Until then, we may be able to figure something out.

$900.00? Now I do not feel bad having this one made for My RB motor for $500.00

After years of effort, I finally have the right combination for my never ending RB30DETT build. This may get long winded. Several years ago Wiseco custom made a set of pistons for myself and AKWIKZ. This is what they send us. These flat top pistons had 5cc valve relief cuts. They were supposed to yield a compression ratio of around 9:1. After installing and measuring them in the block I discovered the compression ratio would be around 7:1. After a discussion with Wiseco it was discovered there was an error in the order. So after some more time they ended up sending us these. The new pistons have 16cc domes. Initial measurements indicated these would give me a 9:1 compression ratio. Now me being the perfectionist wanted to have a closer quench between the piston and head chamber. By the time I got the pistons to a zero deck height, the compression ratio numbers became to high for my idea of a turbo motor. There is a lot of information on Skylines Australia about the "Ideal" compression ratio of the RB30DET conversion being around 9:1. I am building a street car that has to run on 91 octane California fuel. So instead of having new pistons made, I decided to have the 16cc dome area cut down. Fortunately I found a machinist local to me who was competent enough to keep a uniform thickness. He removed about half the original dome area. This new configuration will give me an 8.6:1 compression ratio. The machinist also made this torque plate for doing the final hone and piston clearance. I kept getting conflicting information about the benefit or need of a torque plate when boring a motor. I can say I did see deformation around the head stud areas.

My RB26 intake setup is disassembled at the moment. We could compare them some time as I am local to you.

Nice to know I am not alone.....

Yeah, you are sort of stuck with the front cover. RB26 valve covers would still look good on yours.

My cover has the RB26 ground off. I do not want to be one of those RB26 wanna be's.

I just ordered one yesterday from Elk Grove Nissan. Part No: 3270202G17 will be here for me some time next week.