Stealth-Z

This is what eventually happens to a parts car. This Z will live on by being a doner for others. It would have ended up in a Pick-n-Pull yard or taken to the crusher anyway. This way at least the good parts were removed with some care. We tried to salvage as much as possible. Thanks to Nick and Dan for the time this weekend. Easy stuff comes off. My front yard soon becomes an auto part garden. Suspension Instead of lifting the motor and trans out, we lifted the body instead. Nick and Dan pose with the cutting tool of choice, the Saws All. Quarter panels and rear section removed. Not much left. Floor pans remain. Fire wall. Transmission tunnel.

How about Rebello in Antioch? http://www.rebelloracing.com/index.htm You could also check with Z Car Garage in San Jose. http://www.zcargarage.com/contact.htm

Not overspray. That is a stain from something else I did. Combination of rust mort and water there. I rustmorted an area on another car and did not hose it down completely. It may be a straight car but it is getting cut up this weekend. No place to store it and DMV wants almost $400.00 in back fees, penalities and what not.

What parts are you looking for? PM me. My guess would be they were stored inside. When the car was sold they were probably tossed in.

Missing the clutch pedal?

It has not even been 24 hours since my 1975 280Z was sold. I needed to clear up some space and what do I do? Go out and buy another one! Time to consider blocking myself from Craigslist access. This is what was in the back under some floor mats. Four of these were wrapped in newspaper. The date on the paper is what really caught my attention. I am not really a wheel cover fan so these will most likely find their way on my garage wall.

Like this? Does not appear to have leather listed though.

The site hangs every now and then while loading the ads for me.

Check out the door panels on this. http://sacramento.craigslist.org/car/683531271.html

synthtk did a great job with an R33 Skyline instrument cluster. The stock GTST tachs go up to 9,000. I do believe the GTR's go 10,000 RPMs. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=119780&highlight=tach&page=2 Autometer is the easy way to go. Evan, Did not intend to make you look like an ass. I never knew a 10k tach existed either till I got the Fairlady Z owners manual. It took 7 years for the question to be answered anyway.

Looks like they removed the yellow and part of the red line areas. There should be a yellow line starting at 7. On page 20 of the manual below you can see what it should look like. This is the owners manual to a 1971 Fairlady Z that I own and scanned to a pdf. It is a little over 8MB in file size. http://www.fairladyzg.com/pdf/1971 Fairlady Z Owners Manual Japanese.pdf

They do exist. One is on ebay right now. Doubtful it would work on the RB26 though. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=021&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=310049165180&rd=1

It is for sale on Warehouse Motors website for $2,000.00. http://ftp.warehousemotors.com/store/item.asp?category=1 http://ftp.warehousemotors.com/store/item.asp?id=253 I like the "Dangling" tweeters and "Timex" Monster tach option.

Not mine. Price is right. Free..... http://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/pts/667210496.html

Take a look at some of the other photo's in that photobucket album. There are 828 pictures. http://s271.photobucket.com/albums/jj149/10456_album/?start=0

Lets see, the list is not to bad. 1. Bore .020 over and final hone for proper clearance of the Wiseco's 2. Deck the block for a zero deck clearance for the pistons. There was an issue with it having a 4 thousanths difference between the front and rear pistons. Front measured .018 and the rear .022 in the bore. I am working towards getting a good quench. (Done) 3. Wiseco pistons have a 16cc dome. Calculations put the CR to be 9.3:1. So I plan to have about 10cc's of the dome removed to bring it down to 8.5:1. Wiseco said it is fine to cut the material. 4. Install JUN crank collar (Done) 5. Balance rotating assembly (Done except for pistons) 6. Adjust valves on the RB26 head (Almost done) 7. As long as it is there, drill and tap the new tensioner location. Good news is it is nearly complete. Now we have to cut the pistons and balance them. So I am getting there.

Hopefully everyone has better luck with getting their blocks machined than I have. Seems to be one delay after another for me.

The R34 uses a different CAS. Inside the front of the exhaust cam is the difference. For what you are doing, I do not think it matters. Here is a link to some cam specs Tomei has on their website. http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-catalogue/e090_camshaft-specs.html

Finally got around to painting the G Nose. Still have to paint the bumper piece.

33,000km = 20,625 miles. $3,200 Sounds like a good deal if it is as described.

Cool walk about. Nice seeing a few S30's there. Z32's always have a big turnout.

Very nice! Looks well cared for.

It is an addiction!

Are you looking for a project or ?