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Can anyone tell me which vac hose to tap for a mechanical boost gauge on an L28ET? I took a pic. Bonus if you can draw an arrow pointing to a specific hose!

OK, So heres what im dealing with right now. My rb20 is having some weird issues running, Idle is good at a 14.7 AFR but under load/driving is where I get problems. Upon initial acceleration or low rpm`s the engine has little power and runs like its missing a cylinder or two with afr`s dipping into the 10`s then as boost comes on it runs normal for a bit like it should with afr`s towards 12-13`s and as the rpm`s raise and I hit full boost it will sputter and pop as it leans all the way out untill my wideband cant go any higher (18+ afr`s). So far I have checked everything manually and also through nistune and I still cant figure it out. Here is my current setup: Stock RB20DET and stock turbo Z32 MAF Nistune chipped ECU RB26 444CC injectors (and resistor wired into the harness) Walbro 255 fuel pump Nismo FPR AEM Wideband I have checked the timing and its at 15 deg. Fuel pump has good power and ground. All injectors are opening/closing. All coilpacks work (I pulled them with the plugs and spun the CAS to double check). ECU dosent pull any codes. Fuel pressure isn`t dropping off. TPS voltage is good. Plugs look good and are gapped to the reccomended .8, The MAF readings look linear and accurate from what I can tell through nistune. If I go into nistune and bump up the fuel it just runs richer in the lower rpm`s and still leans out and pops. The only things left I can think of is a bad MAF, Low voltage to the pump under boost, A bad ignitor for the coilpacks, or possibly a bad CAS or something. Any help would be greatly appreciated because I dont know what else I should check at this point lol.

Hi guys well i just sold my 06 350z and ive decided that im just going to start an rb25 swap on my old 73 240z soon. But before that i would like to see whats out here to see if you guys may have laying around. Im looking for performance parts, maybe someone has the mounts laying around they never got to use.? If not im going with the Mckinney mounts. Anything rb25 related is usefull. Let me know if anyone has anything. 240z parts i can also consider. Thanks.

I've been doing hours of research and have decided to get a boost gauge for my 280z with L28ET turbo swap. The problem is, I don't really like the look of any of the mechanical gauges. I really like the Speedhut one where you can "Design your own" and has an LED warning light: http://www.speedhut.com/gauge/GR-BOOST-01/1/Boost-Vac-Gauge-30inhg-0-20psi-(w--warning) I called and they said this was an electronic gauge. I know that installing a mechanical one is easy, but is an electronic boost gauge just as simple? It looks like speedhut supplies you with a pressure sensor and sensor wiring harness. It seems like you would just tap into the vacuum line with the T fitting, plug in the pressure sensor to the t-fitting, and run their sensor wiring harness to your gauge instead of a vacuum line like you would for a mechanical one. Is this correct?

Hello. Im fairly new to the forum but i need help with my megasquirt. I restored and engine swapped my 260z and its finally time to get her running. I bought and assembled my megasquirt. I also made my own wiring harness with DIY's harness. Im almost positive i havnt made any mistakes along the way however the actual tuning part of the ms2 boggles my mind and i have no idea what im doing. I need a map that i can get my car running on for now. It is a stock block with a fresh rebuild, p90 head,stock distributor with DIY' trigger wheel. stock turbo injectors, stock turbo and psi, 240sx throttle body and tps, walbro 255lph inline fuel pump, i have bypassed the fuel pressure regulator for now as it wasnt allowing fuel though. I have messed arounf with some other maps i found on the forum but none of them are perfect. I want to say my firmware is the latest for ms2 extra. i belive i have the pcb 3.0. i will atatch the tune i found and am looking thru. Anything helps thankyou. CurrentTune.zip

I've had a few z's in the past and always fixed them up, made them run and look nice and had to eventually sell them due to random reasons. But now, I feel I've landed myself a keeper! Saw an add on Craigslist for a 71 shell and after a long wait period to hear from the seller we finally struck a deal and head out to pick it up in the middle of nowhere. To say the least, upon arrival the car had absolutely NOTHING in it. And by nothing I mean NOTHING. No mechanical, no brake or fuel lines, no interior no hatch, no windows ... heck, the owner had to Wire the suspension and instead of bolts ran steel wires in between holes (spindle, control arms, etc) just to get it in all fours, which made a huge of a difference when it came to load on to flat bed. While almost no bolts were even provided, To my surprise, the owner had a fair amount of the original parts in a small trailer ready to piece together and threw everything in for free!. The original hatch had miraculously somehow flown off when he previously transported the car home and thus far car's still hatch less. The following day while making a list of the missing parts and further inspection I came to realize the car is actually a 7/1970 car! ^O_O^ After settling down for a few days I found out the car was owned by a member here and got some cool pics and info about the cars history. Found that while the car was very rust free it's definitely had its fun and abuse at the track. Regardless, I got the empty shell for a good price and a positive open mind with hopes of giving this girl new life and a new future far far away from either junkyard and or smasher. I'll be posting some pics of my lady soon. For now, for sure I know I'll be running a 2JZ-GTE power plant & 6speed supra Trans with Z31 finned clsd/CV rear end. Pending the sale of my IS300 to fund the project. For now, let the parts search begin!

Hi, i have just bought me a "New" unused MS2Extra v.3.57, i kind of regretting it but whats done is done. So now im standing here with this setup for now untill i have got the car approven by the car approval service in Norway, i imported this car from oklahoma2 mth ago, got it for 3 weeks ago. My internals for now is following: L28Et, Stock P90 Head (Turbo) stock 1981 turbo motor. Wasted spark, Ign6 from DiyAutotune, 36-1 Trigger wheel with VR sensor. 2,5bar map sensor. 240sx Tb, Q45 MAF Nissan maxima ,infinity, New 460CC Denso from fiveomotor.com Got them today and they was not Plug&Play as they insured me of, even my package only had 4 out of 6 Injectors. I have to take the plenum of and drill larger holes, Yes its high imp. I called them and they fixed it right away, no problem what so ever. I also have Knock sensor (Stock) But i got the Msknocksens system from MS. What pin is that one going into?? The Ecu was set up for 4 cyl, i have set it up for 6 cyl now it was also set up for stepper motor, i dont need that for my setup, any ideas for what i can and cannot use them for instead for cutiing them out? Im gonna use Fidle for Vacuum idle. When it comes to MAP sensor/Boost controll, why in the heavens name do a person have to add on diffrent components all the time, its like a Nintendo, Ps2,ps3 and on and on.. everything you need you have to pay extra for, it is not alot, like the MK-Boost kit at Diyauto.. 7.80$ its nothing, but why didnt you then implement it when they buildt the board??? So here is my question, i got the MK-Boost kit from DIY, but i cant really find out where to solder it, im not an electrician, and all of the manuals out there are so confusing regarding all of the diffrent and mixed up manuals they got. Where do the pins go? On what output pin, where to solder (pics is nice) i was thinking aboute using 1IAC1. And Please dont send me a link with E-Diagram for electricians from msextra.com . But all advises comes in hand Thanx to you all. //Stian

Greetings, Looking for a Turbo Exhaust Manifold for an L28 Engine. I am located in Los Angeles County and willing to pick up from Orange County, San Fernando Valley and San Gabriel Valley. Thanks for your help. JD

Quick pull through a tunnel 2nd and 3rd gear. Rb25 powered 240z with approximately 450whp.