baddriver

What would you need a garge for, if you lived next to the bay in california? Try working on your car in february in Iowa. Then you'll need a garage. If it was warm and sunny here all year round, I'd probably just park the z in the yard! I'm jealous of everybody on this board. Heat and AC in the garage, living on the beach, driving to work in a corvette, Gee, I never knew how bad I have it!

I like my power antenna, I think it was $30 at the local autozone. However, if a stubby antenna is your wish, I still recomend the autozone, advance, or whatever parts store you prefer. There are inexpensive generic antennas everywhere, and I'm sure it'll be no trouble getting them to fit. I bought a universal power antenna, and it fit fine with no modifications, I'm sure the standard antenna will be just as easy. The universal kit comes with several sizes of mounts and should fit about any car. I also got a 6 foot antenna wire extension so I could run the thing around to the passenger side before I sent it up to the front, but depeneding on your application, you might not need one.

Yeah, don't beat yourself up too bad over that, Breaking a few things is part of the fun. I've got a stock rear bar with poly bushings on my Z, and a front sway bar from a 2+2, and I'm very happy with the way it feels. I can't imagine what the car would be like with more roll stiffness than it already has, it seems rock solid to me. So unless you're really building an all-out autocross car, I the stock bar and good bushings are a good choice. Just my .02. Good luck with your repairs, and don't worry, used halfshafts are cheap. It's the correct flange bolts from nisssan that are pricey! (However, I highly recomend buying the halfshaft hareware kit if you round off those bolts taking them out. I had to cut off three of mine!)

Check out the thread in misc. tech titled "240Z replacement weatherstrip experiences so far" It's easy to find. I think if you're willing to do your homework, http://www.Mcmaster.com and JCwhitney will yeild the best prices, but you have to hunt down the proper seal based on the side profile. That thread has a few part numbers listed to get you started.

I'm planning on using the Perma-Cool Fuel Filter and Water Separator Kit from Summit, part number PRM-81794. It's a high capacity fuel filter with dual inlets and dual outlets (perfect for the JTR type setup) plus it's a filter, and has a drain petcock on the bottom. And it's only $35. I've already got one, and I checked, I can get replacement filters for it for $4 at the local farm & fleet, plus all I need to adapt it to any size hose is a couple of hose barbs that fit 1/2" NPT threads. I think It's a good system. One thing I'm doing to make it a resevoir, instead of just a filter, is extending the internal pick-up tube to the bottom, right now it only goes down about 1/4 of the way. But there is a nice thick piece of the housing that I can cut threads into, and just screw on a nipple and short section of tube.

Apperently those barrel-key locks are pretty crappy. The key to my bike lock opens the vending machine at work.

Do you, by any chance, work for a tire dealer?

I think perhaps the nail was hit on the head with the phrase vote the lesser of two evils. There is, however, a third possibily. You could vote against the system that only gives us two choices in the first place. Other contries have dozens of political parties, yet americans seem to believe that two is enough. Two is not enough! as was said further up, when you have two parties, they each have to pick a side on the issue. If the republicans are against abortion, then the democrats have to be pro-choice. But what if there were three political parties, or seven? One of the biggest mistakes most people make is believing the lie that voting for anyone outside of the big two is a waste. Sure, they may not have a chance in hell of winning, but at least you are supporting the possibility that some day in the future, you might have more than two choices. Now before everyone assumes that I;m about to voice my support for that doorknob Nader, let me assure you that this is not the case. IF you believe he is the only other candidate running for president, you have been living for years with your blinders on. There are dozens of candidates on each state ballet. And a vote for any one is not 'wasted.' Voting for a party allows that party to request additonal campaing money from both the federal government and private doners. It builds the party up, and at some point, it may even draw the attention of the media. You say your vote doesn't count. If you vote for either of the big two parties, your right. The american people will elect the bafoon that they deserve. But that vote could mean the life or death of a small party that someday could field a viable candidate. That's where you're 'man of the people' will come from. Right now the other parties look weak and unviable. If people hold onto the democrat or republican attitude, they always will be. But with a little support, from fewer people than you think, one of those parties might someday field a worthy candidate. I don't care who you vote for, but at least consider finding a candidate that you really do believe in, and support them, no matter what party affiliation they have.

My first thought is, That's a hell of a deal. My second thought is, Why is it being sold? Who are these people who put thousands of dollars worth of parts and machine work into an engine and then sell it a few months later? I'd get all the info I could, including copies of the reciepts for the work and parts, prior to purchase. But if it all seems to be solid, no funny stuff, offer $2K and see what happens. 450HP would be a lot of fun.

Thanks for all the replies here guys. I was originally looking for the difference between a rear spoiler and a rear wing, but reading through the lines it looks as though there isn't a big difference, they both make downforce at the cost of increased drag. I am planning on getting the front of the car straightened out first, and I'm looking at a 1" drop, I can't go any farther than that and still be able to get into some of the driveways around here. Other than that, headlight covers are on the wish list, along with vented inspection covers and/or a vented hood. I don't have anywhere local to hit the speeds at which the Z really becomes unstable, so I'll probably just go with what looks best to me an not worry too much about it. Thanks again! Jeff E.

Yeah, that's a good one. Check out this local dealership. http://www.withamauto.com/ Click on dealer information and read the fine print at the bottom to get to the full name. Yes, they advertise on the radio around here as "Dick Witham Ford/Lincoln/Mercury."

most of the discussions about the aerodynamics of the Z seem to agree that stopping air from getting under the car is the number one priority. Managing air at the rear of the car seems to be less of an issue, but I've seen several references to spoilers improving airflow and reducing drag. A wing is for providing downforce, but will a wing have the same benefits as a spoiler, or would a spoiler be a better choice? The wing I have in mind is the small standard wing from MSA, vs. one of the simple inexpensive spoilers. I like the look of both, but I think I like the look of the wing better. Which would be a better choice for an early z? Specifically a 260 w/ stock body.

I think I would have made exactly the same choices, and I hardly think you are giving up much performance-wise. Your car still blows away nearly every mass-produced car on the road, and it sounds like it will be a dependable driver as well. Why not have it all? On thing you've done that I really respect is using the factory parts like guages and fuel tank where they will do. I'm as thrilled by the look of new indiglo guages as the next guy, but you got a classic car for it's looks, why not keep that look? I appreciate the discipline it takes to look at each part and ask yourself realistically 'do I NEED to get a new one, or will this do the job?' Plus it saves a ton of $$$ if you do it right. keep us updated on how you like the car, it's always nice to hear from people what they like as I'm planning my conversion,....any day now.....

I don't know what you'll find for the other 2 engines, but there is a wealth of information on the RB26 swap in the 6 cylinder board. If you are having trouble searching, try the search function on the forum rather than the one from the front page. For some reason the front page search is a little flaky.

You guys are dancing around the correct answer, but I haven't seen anyone come out and say it yet. Putting a 350 in a z car will cost every spare cent you have for as long as you own the car.

Hey, Tim's a Farker! I mean that in the best possible way. This was on Fark a day or two ago. http://www.fark.com

The 302 is special cause it was the original z28 motor from 68 and 69. It's a very rare and desireable motor with a 4" bore and short stroke. The large bore allows it to use large valve heads and I believe it was also a high compression solid cam motor. Not to be confused with the 307, which had a small bore and long stroke, came only in 2bbl configuration (I've never seen a 4bbl, but I don't know for sure they don't exist) which was a pretty wimpy, but reliable motor. Also not to be confused with the modern 305, which also has a smaller bore than a 350 but apperently differs from the 307 in some manner, about which I am not clear. I'm sure a dozen people in here could school me as to why. Anyway, congrats on the free motor. While a 302 would have been a great find, you'll be able to rebuild a 350 for less and get more power out of it.

I've considered doing something like that myself. If you are going to use MS anyway, you already have to set up all the calibration tables. Personally I don't know a lot about fuel delivery, so I was concerned about getting the injectors mounted in a good location and pointed in a good direction, but if you worked that out, I don't see why you wouldn't be able to build a custom FI system for spare change. Good luck!

From the way this message is dropping off the page, I guess we're the only Iowan's here. I'm a native, where are you from originally? Homestead is a little west of Iowa City, and the last time I called down to A1 imports there, they had a 'couple' of Z's, although I don't know for sure if they had any good part left. I was looking for an R200 at the time, although now I am saving up for an engine. I was planning a TPI swap, until I spent enough time on this board to convince me that the LT1 was the way to go. I like shifting for myself, so the T5 or T56 are about the only options, and I figure If I find a complete drop-out I won't have to worry about getting all the parts straight. If you're planning a rotissery, I'd say you're doing more than 'refreshing' a car, that sounds like a major project! I don't have that kind of ambition right now, but someday if I have the space and the time, I might get my underbody cleaned up. Sorry to hear about the 'rootbeer' color. Mine was originally metalic green, but I like yellow for the controversy it creates. Some people love it, others hate it. Personally, I like it, but there are days I wish I'd gone with black.

Stock brakes will be enough to stop the car from whatever speed. As long as you are street driving, and not always on the brakes, you won't have a problem. If you do go autocrossing or get into road race, then you'll need upgrades to keep the rotors from overheating.

It's always nice to find someone 'local,' if local to you means less than 3 hours away. Hi Tannji, I'm Jeff E, from Cedar Falls, IA. How long have you been on the Hybrid Z board? I've been planning a v8 swap since before I bought my 260, back in 2001 or so. The six in it was (is) running fine, though, so I though that before I started the v8 swap I'd put in some new carpet, fix some rust, paint it, install a sterio, and try to make it into a nice car. Well, I have most of that done now, but still no V8! I'm looking for a LT1/6 speed combo. Hopefully I managed to post a pic of my car here. Feel free to contact me if you want to talk. Also, you are closer to Homestead IA than me, so if you happen to be going to A1 imports for some scrap-yard parts, let me know what you find! Later, Jeff E. PS The image won't post, so if you want to see my car, go to the gallery at http://www.classiczcars.com and search for BadDriver. It's yellow. Oh, and I'm no construction worker, but I can lend a hand if you need one.

Thaniel, Where did you get your scan tool / whats the brand?

This thread almost answers all my questions, it just needs one more thing. If I am flattening out the ends as suggested above, should I use a heat sink to avoid over-heating the rest of the spring? If so, what should I use and where should It go? Thanks Jeff E.

I like the idea of using the laser level to measure the angle, but I think there may be a flaw with your method. I've been trying to follow this thread for a few days and I love the discussion, so if I've misunderstood what's going on, forgive me. The problem with measuring the toe by comparing the laser lines on the floor is that you are assuming the plane in which the laser line falls is perfectly vertical, when in fact, it will only be vertical for a given height, and then change with the camber of the wheel. I think you would be better off projecting a dot onto the wall in front of the car several feet ahead, and then measuring the (horizontal) movement of the dot. The wheel does move in and out a slight amount, the trick is to project the dot far enough away that the track change is less than 1/100th of the distance the dot moves, therefore making it insignificant in the measurement (at least to two significant figures). The ramaining movement should be entirely due to toe change, right?? Of course, I am assuming that the wall you choose is fairly straight and perpendicular to the car, and that the height of the dot remains constant. There are a lot of things to keep straight for this type of measurement. I may be over-simplifying what is going on here, as I'm not sure I've followed this discussion completely, either way it's been very informative, Thanks, and keep up the good work.

Don't be too hard on the kid, I mean, I can't count the number of motors I destroyed in various ways between the ages of 16 and 19. (well, ok, I could count them, but I couldn't post them, I have my pride.) This is a dumb mistake and I'm sure the kid knows it, and probably feels alot worse than you do. Just don't bend over backwards helping him get it straightened out. Let him feel the pain of having to explain to all his friends what happened to his car, and let it go. I guarantee he has learned a lot about cars from this experience, and he'll never make that mistake again. Oh, they'll be others, but never that mistake! OK, so I might as well fess up... Pontiac Firebird 350 - spun a bearing - rebuilt - had a lower engine knock within the year Chevy 400 SB in a 72 nova - Didn't re-torque head gasket after break-in- blew gasket and damaged head and block Same chevy 400 - rebuild with flat-tops, put in pump gas - destroyed a piston within 2000 miles Ford Tempo- no mods, Still running fine 120,000 miles later. I learned my lesson.