THUNDERZ

Why would they be selling that aet up? I asked if they could change the package and they sai it was a sealed package they could not change.

I got spring rates, 140 progressive fronts and 160 linear rear. I dont know about spring rates, how do those sound to you? I want to get it on the track next season. I keep saying that every year, but I am real close now. 550 shipped$ sounds ok huh? Jim

What Lb. springs should they be? Thats not listed in the add. Do you think the adjustable shocks are worth it compared to the blue tokico's?

Is 500.00 a decent price for new illuminas and springs?

Dan thanks for the input. Do you mean the best timing setting was 34 degrees? I have a vacuum advance wich I should probably get rid of too. I am running triples. Jim

there are after market "short shifters" through MSA, But I think cut and weld is more of a safe bet then bending in light of being able to tack and test position before paying and guessing with a hydraulic bend. No mig welder? no friend with one? Make your best choice. Jim

yeah like I said a 1500 or finer grit would take care of it . With a buffing compound should disappear.. Its a good idea to get a good initial bite to go through wax and other build up to pass scratches. Then switch to a finer grit. Then buff with something like 3M finesseit. My product of choice. sand with water only. some soaps can wreck your paint. Jim :

Does advancing your timing to maximum before pinging make you lose MPG ?

I want to know what the smartest and most cost effective suspension set up would be for me. I have a 74 260z with totally stock suspension. I want to lower an inch or two, keep a relatively smooth ride while tightening it up. I am running stock steel wheels. I am planning on getting 16 inch in future. I dont want to flare and I want to put wider tires and wheels on. I would like to have ride height adjustable. I also want to keep it as cheap as possible. I know this is a lot to ask, but you guys are the ones to engage this request. My engine is satisfying and the body is clean. Give me your best. Thanks. Jim 8)

Go with a 1500 or finer to do that sanding...lots of water if you do that. I think the best idea is to use a high quality buffing compound that you would find at an auto paint store. Use a buffer! Not a grinder with a buffing pad!. This all depends on how thick your clear coat was if it is clear coat. Most of the Z cars were single stage if I am not mistaken at wich point all you need to worry about is breaking through to primer.. Careful! Jim

I'm not sure if this will help , but I put a zx trans in my z and with the z shifter rod it was way forward. I had to take it out , cut it and find a good place for it to sit. Then I tacked it and welded it. Maybe it is a z shifter not a zx. If it looks "bent" like it really shouldnt be in the shape it is. Go yank one out of a yard(bring yours with you) and see if its bent. If it is just buy the one from the yard. Jim

Thanks for the info. I checked it out. It is more about converting than what I need though.

That much I know, but how do I find out the rest of the puzzle? Which wire to attach to coil, which one to +. How could I test the tach? Thanks for the input.

Is it vapor lock? How hot was it outside when this happened? How is the temp of the car itslef?

No ideas? C'mon

I put a 1980 L28 in my 260 and I cant figure out how to get my tach hooked up. I just dont know which wires go where. I have played around and havent had a combination that made it move. Not sure if tach went bad or not. Any ideas would help. Jim

I have a 74 260, and I put an 82 R200 in the rear. I flipped the mustache bar around and squeezed it into place. I havent had a problem with it.

Does anyone know what steel wheels will fit an early z, that are wider than 5-6 inch. Well let me know of any steel wheels that might fit. I just want to know what to look for. I want to have track wheels. Jim

What is the cheapest way to put in a adjustable suspension or at least a set up that will lower the car about 1.5 inches?

If that doesnt fix it, get your radiator flow checked. It sounds like a classic clogged radiator. Flushing a radiator doesnt do anything to help clogging, it is more a preventative maintanence.

This has been going on for about 4 or 5 hours of total driving time. The car does not get driven because I am trying to get things working corrrectly. It has never "knocked" or "pinged" that I know of, but I have suspected that it may be running a little lean. The car does not over heat, it just runs a little hotter than I think it should.

Down the hatch!!!

Doug, Thanks for the advice. I took a look at your pics and at a glance it looks like your set up is similar to mine (engine wise). Do you have your header wrapped or a heat shield under your carbs? Where does your temp gauge ride in normal operating? Are those webbers? What size? I'm sorry for all the questions but I am growing tired of these problems! Want to drive it, not stare at it with my wallet open Jim

Childs play huh... Please make me feel stupid! I just had my radiator checked and its fine. I had an emissions check done on the car and took the results to the mechanic who built my engine. He said that it looks like its fine. I know it is not running rich, and the plugs are light light brown/white. So what do you think?

O.K. , maybe you can clear this up for me. I thought that the correct offset for a z rim was 0. Do you know what range of offset works with stock fenders? Thanks Jim