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greghassen

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Everything posted by greghassen

  1. anyone have a console plug for a s30 console?
  2. I need the passenger side. Part needs to be rust free.
  3. i would need to see a picture of how big the rust holes are to make a determination
  4. yes i can see rust damage like this in colder climates but this car has live most of its life in northern california and the rest in arizona and a garage in hawaii. No accidents either. I've got original sheet metal in front and no signs of past repairs. What i've been thinking about after looking more closely is, the plastic liner inside the fender was cracked and water from the tire was thrown to the top of the fender and dropped back down into the unsealed seam of that vent tube thing. So i think its a good idea to seal up the whole top seam just in case those plastic liners crack. I know alot of people out there are running without fender liners and the jdm z's didn't have them at all. if thats the case, i would think the fairlady's would have the same damage as i have.
  5. Well tonight I tore into the front end of my 78 280z and was a little shocked at how much rust there was. I've known since i bought it, 12 years, that it was pretty badly rusted in the front hinge area. I treated it with por15 about 10 years ago and i guess thats kept the hood from coming loose and blowing off. my question is, where does the water come from that causes this rust? It appears to have traveled down the the inside of the air vent? i'm guessing thats what that hollow boxed in piece is that goes the whole length of the front frame. I sealed the top of the seam anyways but I can't see how water would come in the top since the fender covers this seam. anyone know where the water is coming from? now the hard part comes... trying to fabricate these pieces or i guess if someone has any good ones they want to sell. This is a pretty common rust area i've seen so i doubt anyone has good ones from their parts cars. Damn.. i knew that mig welder would come in handy one day
  6. greghassen

    78z mostly stock

    daily driver owned for 12 years. auto and a/c. Gotta have a/c in hawaii especially in summer. Interior used to be white. I changed interior color to black using black ebay door panels, a msa black seat kit with a black dragon carpet kit. Painted all other interior panels with black paint. Rebuilt the a/c system using an aftermarket parallel flow condenser, 300zx hitachi compressor (mjs170), custom made hoses and 280zx copper high pressure line so i could use a easier to find zx drier and the zx high pressure line allows for the use of an aftermarket high and low pressure cut-out switch. Next up is rust repair in the back hatch area, rocker panel dog leg and the hood hinge area. Then, paint it black or orange. Haven't decided yet..
  7. what is the name of the paint you used? if you can't find any more of the exact same hardener, i would not use another manufacturers hardener. if you're daring you could but i'de try spraying a fender or headlight bucket first to see if you've got any chemical reactions. things you could do... 1. spray the remaining paint without hardener... yes it won't be as hard and will dry slower but you're not risking a chemical reaction to another mfgs hardener.. 2. wet sand down everything and respray with another paint. when i worked in an auto body shop we almost always did a "base" coat and colorsanded then resprayed. this did 2 things. it covered bodywork sand scratches better because over time paint shrinks up and some sanding scratches even fine start showing up in the paint. just overall the paint jobs looked smoother with this base coat and it seemed to come out with less dirt when resprayed the 2nd time. 3. try respraying with another hardener. might work might not work... I once knew a guy that sprayed refrigerators with centari enamel. i was shocked to find out he used gasoline as the thinner. they looked ok but durability was not there probably.
  8. Got any runs that bother you now? if you clear over them they'll bother you even more. Best to fix them now. But... if you can live with them no worries then. looks better than some so called professional auto body shops do. if you're worried about the clear coat, i'de do one of the smaller body panels you've got hanging up first. if you mess that up its much easier than re-doing the body of the car. i like to put on a light first coat (tack coat) of clear and wait till its tacky. that way your successive coats of clear have something holding it on and not running.
  9. i'm just curious why you didn't remove the antenna mast. you've done an extraordinary job in dismantling everything else. you've done a really good job putting up plastic everywhere. for a homeowners garage paint job, it should come out pretty dirt,dust,bug free.
  10. 1.5" x 3.5" is perfect for the stock benzel. I just measured my 78 stock benzel and it should fit like a glove. thanks!
  11. ARE YOU USING THIS SPRAY GUN TO SPRAY PRIMER TOO??? if you are.... that gun needs meticulous cleaning after using primer in it. if you're only using it for the basecoat and NOT the primer.... that crap that came out of your spray gun looks like you did not strain the paint when you poured it into the paint cup OR you didn't clean up your gun good enough when you used it the time before. whatever you do DON'T just 1200 grit sand the bumps and clear. been there done that and it messes up the metallics. you need a light respray of metallics. what i'de do is 600 wetsand it smooth and apply a light coat of basecoat to get the metallics uniform, then clear coat it. if you clear over that crap there is no way you can buff or colorsand that so its smooth. it will be encapsulated in the clear. you dont have to sand the whole panel. just 600 the crap in the paint. your paint will stick to the unsanded paint because its still fresh and will melt into your previous spray. holy crap... people are still using red lacquer spot putty. wow thats old school. don't apply that stuff too thick, it takes forever to dry and shinks big-time. i applaud your energy level on this project. you must be YOUNG with lots of energy. If you're an old guy like me then i'de like to know what vitamins you're taking.
  12. a light oil sprayed inside body panels works good. you can use one of those garden sprayers to get in the rockers and back behind the quarter panels.
  13. thanks for the measurements. I can work with that now. back in the day they used to make aftermarket radios that fit the stock 78 benzel. I have one in my daily driver. its from the 80's and has a cassette. cheap as hell radio but it looks like factory equipment.
  14. yes i've seen that one. That front benzel looks really cheap, cheezy. i wonder if i could use the stock 78 benzel that has the built in antenna switch. Anyone have the measurements of the display part of the radio that fits thru the benzel? From the ad its not clear to me how the power antenna is operated. use the remote control only???
  15. Does anyone know of a radio that fits into a 280z without any modification to the console? I just bought a brand new console and I don't want to cut it to fit an aftermarket radio. It's weak enough to start with.
  16. sorry but thats the only copy I have. I don't have photoshop either. You need to change the vin # on the invoice to yours and enhance the colors
  17. i need the faceplate for the stock hitachi radio, antenna switch and radio harness for 74-76
  18. Does it have any tears in it? if ok, how much
  19. a good graphic artist or a good photoshop friend could make one for you. Or you could modify this one. I believe its a 75 invoice. just change a few things and enhance it and you've got real copy
  20. the thin rubber moulding that attaches to the top side of the bumper
  21. thanks for the tip. i just got the black dragon one today. the metal doesn't look as heavy as the original but thats to be expected with aftermarket items with a cheap price. i wish that someone made just the rubber strips. that way i could straighten the stainless steel and attach the new rubber piece to it.
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