greghassen

2 good rust free ones are worth 75 + ship to me

Bump. Still need these. Anyone have with minimal to no rust issues?

pm sent

Anyone have only 1 racing mirror from the drivers side? I've got the passenger side and would like to find the drivers side to make it a set. racing mirrors were part of the appearance package on the zaps and black pearls. 77-78 year models.

Pm. Me

I need a zx turbo auto trans. Only problem is nobody on ebay wants to ship to hawaii. Trans would need fluid drained and boxed up.

Has anyone ever tried puting zx visors into a z? The zx roof is probably wider and the visor probably longer but they sure look better than the z visors.

I'm still looking for one of these

you could try searching all u.s. cities craigslist. link here http://allofcraigslist.com/ or what i've been seeing is people converting solid rust free LHD cars into RHD. on craigslist there is a 77 rhd 2+2 for 400$ that has the firewall and dash parts that you would need. here is a link to whats involved in the conversion. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/84244-how-to-do-a-rhd-conversion/ i have also seen rhd conversions done without the complete firewall transplant. much easier but i have no links i believe they just cut out the area of firewall where the steering column is and transplant it to the other side.

unless you think there might be rust underneath the chrome roof drip moulding, i wouldn't pull it off. they are difficult to pull off and put back on without tweaking them. its real easy to mask them off when painting.

what are the hc, co, c02,nox readings? ` where is the original afm? afm's rarely go bad. most get out of adjustment by people changing the spring settings. i wouldn't rely on advice from a smog tech. he probably has never worked on a z engine. `

did anyone happen to see this unfortunate car on ebay? my first question is... why? ebay link

i'm in hawaii too, the big island. you're probably on oahu right? those hitachi compressors have been very good to me. the only problem with doing used compressors is you have to invest a little time cleaning and flushing the compressor, mounting it, evacuating system and charging just to see if its good. i've also run the sanden with good luck in the 280. I would NOT buy a rebuilt sanden. the brand new ones are too cheap. the main problem i've been having is with the factory stock expansion valve. they are no longer available and i bought 3 used ones before i found a good one. i'm currently running r134 in mine and it works good. vent temps 40 on most days. the stock condenser will be ok. try to carefully clean the fins as most ive seen are full of little rocks. if you do lots of stop n go driving in honolulu you might invest in an electric pusher fan in front of the condenser. when i switch my fan on with the a/c gauges hooked up i can see a nice drop in high side pressure. good luck finding a sanden mount. those puppies are rare nowdays. i saw one on ebay about a year ago. i should have picked it up. being on a budget, i'de just pick the compressor from your parts cars with the least grease on the front pulley and use that. flush it good especially if the a/c systems have been open to the outside air. you're very lucky having 2 parts cars in hawaii. most have rusted and are long gone here.

part of the problem could be excessive paint buildup on the pillar where the door hinge contacts the pillar and the back side of the door hinge. also,i believe the bottom of the door can move in slightly if you loosen the bottom hinge bolts on the door. slotting the bolt holes on the door bottom is also an option.

seeing that you're in michigan, the first question that comes to mind is how much rust does it have. if its not rusty then why not just bring it back to stock body.

i've done about 10 rebuilders in the past. i never kept track of how much it costed to do one. I did it for the challenge and personal satisfaction. From doing so many i did learn a few tricks to saving money on rebuilders. What really helps is if the seller is also a wrecking yard or they can get you the parts you need at their wholesale prices and sell it all to you as a package.

if the system was not evacuated when you first installed or opened it up, then you have outside air inside the system and that air has moisture in it which the dryer absorbs. when you say "uncharged" do you mean you took it apart and reassembled with no evacuation or evacuated but no freon added?

dont know if this auction was a mistake. the panels look decent for a daily driver. ebay link

there is alot of rust on that car. it's not a blue and gold vintage calif plate so it may have spent some time in the rust belt before coming to calif. what the heck is that little spray bottle, por 15?

i need just the drivers side. if anyone has an extra one or a orphaned drivers side racing mirror please pm me. these were the mirrors that datsun offered as an option that was called racing mirrors.

for anyone out there thinking of getting those led light bulbs from hong kong buyers on ebay, think again.. I bought a couple and they lasted less than 6 months. One completely stopped working and the other was flickering on the last 2 or so led's when i checked them yesterday. does anyone know where i can get a good quality led tail light bulb?

i need a rust free cowl panel. small dents are ok just no rust

i painted mine with single stage old school lacquer a few years ago. im getting ready to paint my daily driver black. just bought a gallon of black lacquer paint and clear coat. 350 bucks with shipping ouch

I need that little clamp that holds the black plastic snorkel to the air cleaner

Question2: Should I put a coat of paint to protect the primer? (The Z is color code 115 blue metallic so I would be using http://www.napaonlin...0539_0006528495 ) IIRC primer is porous so it could let in moisture which could start the rust all over again. You are correct. Primer is porous and lets moisture in. Epoxy primers are non-porous but the cheap stuff in the spray cans.. its questionable if that is a true epoxy. So i'de say use a rattle can epoxy with a rattle can blue paint over the top of the rust areas. Then wax the whole entire car with a good car wax. That will help protect the rest of the car. or... take it to earl scheib for a cheapo paint job