greghassen

I need the rubber trim piece that goes the length on the top of the bumper. doesn't have to be perfect just no big tears.

the chrome trim that snaps down on the top of the door and has the plastic squeegee that rests against the window when it rolls up and down. I'm not sure if all s30's fit. mine is a 78.

i'de have the head pressure tested. I had the exact same thing, oil in the radiator, white smoke and head gasket looked good. Took it to a machine shop and he told me it was a casting flaw. It was letting oil flow down into a coolant jacket. He had to grind out alot of material before he hit good aluminum. Then welded it up. Been fine ever since.

I've searched and searched for pictures of how other people installed their power door lock actuators in the s30 and never came up with any pictures. I couldn't find a way to fit the big aftermarket actuator inside the door without interfering with the window and giving the actuator linkage a straight pull. Actuators will not last long if they are pulling at an angle. One other thing is to use loctite on the linkage screws because they will loosen up without it. The big cheap actuator is shown in this picture In my other S30 i used a actuator out of a zx and it worked out ok. I was able to install it almost directly above the door lock. It wasn't easy but i think the nissan actuator will last longer than these cheap aftermarket ones. But, if anyone is using the aftermarket ones here is a picture of one that was installed by a shop that did alarms. I was replacing the door panels in my new 78 and thought id'e take a pic to help others out there.

I need a set of those aftermarket stainless steel rocker panel mouldings. Don't have to be perfect shape. Just no big scratches.

I used a longer set of bolts to draw it down. then swapped in the correct bolts one at a time.

Did you test your ev by putting it in a freezer? You can charge it with another refrigerant thats r12 compatible like envirosafe until you get the pressures fixed. I would set the superheat screw in as far as the others you have. All the expansion valves i have are screwed in about the same distance. After you get everything sorted, I would highly recommend a flushing with solvent of the whole system, replacement of the dryer and filling with the proper amount of refrigerant oil. You can use lacquer thinner or brake cleaner and an air compressor to flush. The reasons for a proper flush are: 1. You need to get the correct amount of oil in there and after charging and discharging. Lots of oil escapes with the gas. 2. Doing that much work can dislodge sludge in system. Are you evacuating the system before charging? if not i wouldn't recharge with the r12

i need the drivers side mirror. the stock one. or the drivers side sport mirror or a set of sport mirrors off a zap z or black pearl.

When I worked in an auto body shop we used to apply bondo over paint when it was determined that the paint was in good condition... i.e. not peeling or flaking. Back then lacquer putty was king and would shrink later and make the body work look wavy so we preferred using bondo in place of spot putty. This is not to say that bondo doesn't shrink, but it shrinks less.. For surface prep you will have to rough up the paint before you apply bondo. I've used 36 grit if the paint is thick, but if not thick, you can use 80 grit. The bondo needs this to bite into the paint. You shouldn't apply the bondo over paint very thick though.

"Previous owner had it set so advanced it wasn't even on the degree marker." Sounds like your timing needs more advance. Your harmonic balancer may have slipped its outer pulley. I'de try timing it by "ear" and see if the popping goes away. Also sounds like you still have a vacuum leak. shouldn't a 6 cyl have 19-21 inches of vacuum? when you take the oil cap off while its running what does it do?

Does anyone have pictures of their power door lock actuators? i'm having a heluva time finding a place for mine. I bought the kit from VB which uses the universal el cheapo actuator. The actuator is very big and everywhere I place it, it interferes with something. the 280z doors have only one place to attach the actuator to the door lock rod and get a straight pull but it interferes with the door panel.

My experience with replacement rubber t/c rod bushings is not a good one. I too didn't want the harsher ride with poly so decided to use aftermarket rubber which cracked bad in just a couple years. The aftermarket rubber just isn't the quality of the original factory rubber. If you can find factory rubber, go for it, but if its cheap aftermarket rubber... you might be replacing it in just a few years.

If the color is not a clear red color but a rather brownish muddy color its burnt. If its burnt then the transmission needs to be replaced. changing the fluid will not do anything. Some mechanics say that new transmission fluid in an old (80,000 miles +) transmission can cause slippage and seal leaks as the new detergents in the new transmission fluid clean out the varnish thats built up over the years. This varnish along with grit and pieces of metal in the old oil provide "grip" for the clutches inside the transmission.

since the expansion valves for 75-78 are NLA, there is even more need to replace the evaporator core. It would be great if someone could come up with an evaporator unit that fits without much modification and is maybe more efficient/larger than the original datsun factory evaporator. I really like the idea of adapting the 95 maxima control panel to fit. you would need to get the electronic mixing valves from the maxima also, right? the ones on the z are mechanical and cannot be adapted very easily.

It doesn't matter what shape the rubber isolator is in. I need a good rebuildable crank damper. I believe 75-83 with factory a/c will fit.

thanks Scott, got them today. Good job on cutting them. These should work just fine.

outlined in red. price sounds good. they should fit into a usps flat rate box. the large one i think.

I need both sides. Preferably in better condition than the one in this picture. Also need the passenger side chrome or stainless steel belt trim.

or the whole evap assembly with the expansion valve installed.

looks like a subaru rack. notice how nicely the rack clears the crossmember on a rhd car.

I bought some and they are the all precision. The same kit others sell.

duct tape on the afm boot in the video is screaming "REPLACE ME" .

just sending a cylinder head from nevada cost 80$ an auto trans weights probably 5x what a head weighs.