mistah mofro

So i swapped slave cylinders and had the same result... but i i adjusted the rod as far as it can go, go rid of the copper washer from the ss line, benched the slave master and tried again. Succuess finally alot more movement and way stiffer pedal now so i cant pinpoint on one thing since i did numerous stuff at once. I took a look at the previous and seemed to be ok. I didnt get to test it out cuz i ca start at this time since i have open headers.Now that i actually was able to turn the car since its in the middle of the day another problem has come up. It feels as if the clutch isnt fully engaging, i adjusted the rod some more and got little more engagment but it feels as if it "never lets go". I had a problem like this once before and i adjusted the clutch master rod and it fixed it but now it seems it cant be helped. Should i try bleeding it some more too see if i can get more pressure? or can it be something else?

S*** i didnt even know thag, but unfortuanetly i got rid of my old master awhile back, fun stuff thanks for the info. Anyone know what the measurement for max length of the rod should be?

Nah theres no leakage anywhere actually thats why its becoming increasingly more frustrating be easier to indentify the problem lol

Well it seems something its stopping me from building enough pressure to move the clutch fork, i tried bleeding it out again and there was air bubbles which gave it some more pressure on the pedal but physically looking at the clutch fork minimal movement. its a brand new slave and clutch master but the pedal is kinda soft and never gets stiff problem is the entire time i drove the Z i always had a soft pedal so i cant tell the significant difference. When i first started the car and put it in reverse it barely engaged and slowly stalled out, couldnt put it back into gear. So before i drop the transmission, i wanted to get some insight before doing so. Maybe pressure plate doesnt match throw out? Anyways to identify pressure plate? Edit: I also had some press the pedal while i stare at the resevoir. The fluid goes down an comes back up slowly with no air bubbles at all, also i have purchased another slave cylinder just to see if it my current one may be defected. Tonight im going benchbleed the clutch master/slave cylinder, removing the copper washer from the ss line, and then bleeding it the entire system again before dropping the transmission. (Heres pics of the slave cylinder travel) This is clutch pedal not pressed: pressed: thanks guys!

Im pretty sure your referring to the under the dash on the passenger side, from what i can go by memory are multiple colored blocks.

Cleaned out the check ball area and they dont stick anymore but little progress. #1 carb has one strong stream and one that doesnt have anything, #2 carb two has strong stream and one stream that seems to get stronger as the other looses pressure, and finally #3 carb has one ok stream and one very very weak stream stream. Fuel pump pilots are soaking as i speak and i left them to soak friday and hoping whatever gunk is in them comes out now.

I was wondering how to identify 73 240z engine,dash,tailigh,etc harness. I know theres usually a white label on them and black numbers somewhere along the harness, so i guess what Im really asking what numbers am I looking for to identify what year the harness is actually for. Thanks

I need an 73 240z and early 260z engine harness 8/74 or before.Thanks

Friend of mine called me let know he has voltage reg and tailight harness

When i go jy hunting I only find 280z(zx)'s but ill try again. How early of a 260z though?

I have another voltage regulator, its not for me. I got a pretty new alternator atm so i dont wanna waste it for now. Im gonna alternator along with my e12 dizzy when time n money cones around.

As 73 240z engine harnesses become very scarce to source since its a one off apparently, would it just be easier to swap in a 70-72,260z or even carb l28 harness? My current harness as i look more into it seems theres broke,exposed, and "french braids" everywhere as i back track through the harness, i would have to swap the dash harness along with them to aswell right? -this is for a Carb'd 73 240z- (Need a 73 engine harness if anyone has one)

I need a speedo cable,hood,fenders but MAINLY I I NEED engine,dash harrness for my 73 240z, please let me know if you have any

So check balls seems be getting stuck because after taking them apart the second time seems the problem is present only in the carbs that dont spray fuel. How do i stop them from getting stuck i already have them apart and can post pics if needed. Thanks tony

I have triple mikuni 40's with new gaskets, accelerator pump, shims, and needle valve assembly. One out the three carbs are actually spraying the fuel out and the other two are dry when pressing the throttle or cranking. This was a problem before I rebuilt the carbs even after cleaning them with a solvent washer and compressed air so i was wondering if theres any passage ways i missed? Thanks.

^ thats what im thinking now, i got #1 at tdc though and checked the distributor shaft. Ok after re-examining the carbs, noticed only one carb is actually spraying fuel still, any ideas where i should look? After that i grabbed some starter fluid and carb cleaner and proceeded to spray them in while cranking the car. Noticed #6 likes to shoot flames out the carbs which i would assume is backfiring through the intake but not sure if its just from the leftover starter fluid. If i keep doing it it'll start for a second, stay on for about two-three seconds and loses it while still holding the key. I borrowed a timing gun from a friend so ill be able to check timing. Im not ruling out the resistor but only until after i get the carbs spraying right. No motor never ran freshly rebuilt.

I took the mikunis apart and cleaned them out with compressed air and a nice solvent washing, ill try the starter/carb cleaner through the booster port later today. If that doesnt work ill get my voltmeter out and check voltage everywhere considering the bypassing resistor wasnt the first time its been advised. Thanks

Well i have air, fuel, and spark but still nothing is getting it tured over. I checked timing got #1 on compression stroke and check the angle on the distributor gear, its dead on. Weird thing is when its turning over and i hold the key it sounds as if its actually running but barely, obviously until i let go of the key. Really appreciate some insight or maybe even someone to come by help a fellow member out(bay area), lunch on me. I was thinking maybe valve adjustment can be off or something? Dont mean to be too vague but its more of a feel so its kind of hard to put into words. Details: L24 with triple mikunis and carter fuel pump.

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Just as the title says in need of a 73 240z engine harness i tried saving mine but seems it backfired.

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Nah looking for maxima calipers only, tired of experimenting what may fit.

Also i can trade, i have s13 rear calipers with brand new ceramic brake pads if anyone is interested.

Looking for a pair of 86 maxima rear calipers, the ones i have dont fit with my current brackets so Im in need of these. Please send me a pm or post here in this thread thank you.

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