mistah mofro

that helped a little bit, but its hard to identify stuff, I need to find out how to direct power to the headlights but I may have it down.

anyone have a wiring diagram of there setups? I was thinking of using a relay setup with the factory harness somehow. Just wondering not asking to spoon fed, I have mine wired to battery and fuse with a switch right now but I would like to use the stock combination switch.

I vote riken mesh aswell ^^

where are these mixture screws? I dont have the information to find out whats what on my DGV webers, thanks. Sorry to thread jack btw

bump

First thing that happened Was after a small mountain run, there was a slight grinding sound. You can hear it right in front of the of the bellhousing, so next day I dropped the tranny retightened the pressure plate and made sure nothing was wrong but everything seemed fine, but theres two stripped bolts on the pressure plate. Second thing that happen made about another "Run" after that there was a very loud whine in 2nd and 3rd, then the next day I couldnt shift into gear like as if the Clutch went. Characteristcs like cant put into gear in while moving or sitting still with the clutch pedal all the way down, so i grab all the essentials clutch/pressure plate/release bearing/pilot. Now the problem is when I went to go move it for street cleaning it shifting fine, but there was some added vibration at random RPMS. Its a 73 240z with a 280zx tranny also it would throw 5th out of gear, i mean like it would never hold 5th gear this was happening before I had the car though. So now Im baffled, any ideas anyone?

So on my l24 I have duel weber carbs and was wondering when I mess the idle mixture am I suppose to adjust timing aswell or let it come dam close to falling on its face.

Its a a 73 240Z with an L24 that swapped in about 2 months ago, originally had an l26, i just swapped over the l26 clutch/pressure plate and mounted it to the L24. Thing is I dont know what year the tranny is out of, I'll see what I can dig up on the trans. Does the throw out bearing differ within any years of the 5 speed?

So I should just grab the clutch kit for the 5 speed tranny, or grab the throw out bearing by itself from autozone.

Slave Cylinder definately, I've had this exact same problem in my Z31 awhile ago. But also make sure one of the clutch lines to the slave aren't leaking because my turned out to be a cut on the one the lines to the slave, leaked overnight and next day no clutch. REMEMBER to bleed and such!! Good luck

My Z came with a 5 speed trans, and I was wondering do I get the OEM 4 speed kit or the 5 speed clutch kit if there any different from eachother. I was just was wondering because my throw out bearing did itself in and I cant get the bearing by itself so I need the entire assembly apparently. Are the kits different, are the pilot bearing and throw bearing different? Thanks

513's look more like panasports though, watanabes spokes are more spread and have more agressive bends on there spokes.

I have Serial 9 Strut tubes welded to my Z31 knuckle already and wanted to adapt them to my s30 if possible, I even kept the five lug hubs. If Z31 Knuckle doesnt have any light shined on it I will probably use my 5 lug z31 hub and toyota 4 pot calipers.

i guess to be more specific what type of tie rods do i need to use while using a z31 spindle, since the ball joint has to be shimmed. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/6196-tie-rodz31-strut-conversion-complete/ http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/6076-z31-strut-conversion/ Got the info here^^

makes me thankful not to be in hail parts of the world. But if an earthquake hits my car will be the earths core by then. Sorry for the damages man.

So i been researching for Z31 spindle and see that positive caster is a problem without adjsutable control arms. Also the ball joint has to be shimmed or replaced with a suitable replacement that will match up with the knuckle and also needs a custom tie rod or longer tie rod that will reach. I'm mainly confused on the tie rod thing does s30 just not reach, what about z31 tie rods, or has anyone tried s13 tie rods? Thank

how much would you charge? I can take off the parts at your location if that would lower the price.

I meant the bay area sorry forgot to include that. Do you weld the camber plates/strut tubes?

I live in san francisco and was wondering if anyone has experience welding the camber plate and strut tube for coilover over setup from a shop or private party. I got some stance tubes laying around and going to purchase technotoy tunings camber plates.

So if your running the z31 rotors and calipers you dont need it?

I drove it for maybe a day or two and hasn't changed I'll ride with it alittle bit longer. First time i drove it pretty hard then the clutch started to act up (nothing to do with the strut) and havent drove it since. I'll let you guyz no what it looks like in a week or so.

Its not the spring im concerned about or does the same go for the struts? Thanks for the info though, didnt know that.

just curious, why exactly do you need the 35mm spacer?

so a couple weeks ago i got a steal for a set of Tokico HP's with springs for 180. I installed the rears and got a good drop almost exactly where i wanted it to be. On the other hand the front is a good 2-3inch inches higher than the rear, at first i thought the tokico spring was just that much stronger than stock and to test that i installed my stock cut springs (came with the car) and still same height in the front. I was wondering if maybe I accidentally installed the fronts on the rears, then rear struts in the front. Also dones the front strut compress more than the rears? Thanks A bunch

why not coilovers all around? Just wondering?