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For a decent example out of Japan, you will part with $30,000 USD. Most of the cars that have this conversion are very clean and have the title changed to make the RB26 legal. For something nice, be prepared to pay $50,000 USD.

There was originally a debate over using the TTV6 or a NAV8. They have settled on the TTV6. You may not read that in the main stream media for a while. Not to sound all 007ish, but that's all I can say about it without getting people in trouble. Latest word has it as a done deal. The car was originally supposed to have its own chassis (Nissan GTR) but at the present time, its looking like the G35 base. Cost savings or because the G35 looks so BADASS, I don't know. No, 400hp won't push out current engines, but I've been around for a few power revolutions . eg: A while ago, Nissan L turbos and Toyota 5, 6, and 7M turbos ruled the street at 500hp. When Nissan introduced the R32 GT-R which could make 500hp without changing anything inside the engine, they were instantly crowned king, and the L's and M's quickly faded from the lime-light. When Toyota or Nissan come out with a 400hp engine, it means that 600hp will probably be possible on the stock motor without the engine breaking a sweat, and for very little investment. I'm old, but not old school. I love technology! I'm chompin' at the bit waiting to see where this will take me in terms of the never-ending quest for higher horsepower. I'm a horsepower junkie. I have friends at test cell who let me sit under F15's at max power. There's no way to describe it. 8)

The G35 is a Skyline. In Japan its called the Skyline 350GT. All GT-R imports to the States are at a standstill. I'm not sure why. I've also heard Motorex is going to fold. The next GT-R, due for 2007, will be AWD and probably G35 based. It will be powered by a twin turbo VQ35, making 400hp. Toyota and Honda have their own cars comming out with near or above 400hp. The Toyota engine will be a NA V8 in a Soarer-like roadster. Expect the new GT-R to cost aroung 70K. A manufacturer HP war could make a lot of our "built" engines obsolete.

The Haltech will switch the vvt. Don't go through Haltec as their customer service sucks. Better to go through a tuner like this guy: http://www.hitman.hm. His name is Matt and he's very knowlegable on the Haltec system.

4000 is a good start point as you generally dont cruise over 4k and you dont race below 4k. The best way to find the actual-best switch point is to run the car on a dyno with the vvt on for the entire pull and off for another entire pull. Overlay the graphs and the switch point will be where the vvt-on torque overtakes the vvt-off torque.

On the back of each head is a solenoid to control the varrible cam gear using oil pressure in the cam. It's only a two position (on or off) switch. There are several verriables that determine when the cam is advanced, increasing valve overlap; it takes into consideration things like throttle position, airflow, rpm, etc. when arriving at an engagement point. This is beyond the capability of any off-the-shelf engine management. The engine runs and idles fine with the system disabled. It will have a little less power below the apply point. If you want to use it, simply hook up a relay to be activated by an rpm switch set at a point that you think the cam should advance.

Any stand alone that incorporates an rpm switch will work the vvt. Its simply an on-off switch. The most diffucult part of a stand alone set-up is manufacturing the crank trigger. Haltec will work with the stock Nissan cam sensor for ease of installation. I've also used SDS with the VG. If you use an MSD DIS4 with the SDS, you can wire the stock coils to be fired on three channels by the ECU. This eliminated the need for mounting the aftermarket coils and unsightly plug wires. It will also operate the stock Nissan Idle up for warm up and AC activation. Good luck.

When Turbonetics sold out, all of their good engineers left. They teamed up with some guys from Garrett and made Innovative Turbo Systems.

With that size cam, your dynamic compression under hand cranking conditions is very low because a lot of the air gets pumped back out due to the valves being open long after the piston has reached BDC.

The Turbonetics stuff may or may not last depending on the usage, but the quality is very substandard when compared to other wastegates of the same cost. If you ever take the Racegate apart, it's a PITA to realign the valve because the guide is very short and built into a little stainless plate that has no doweling, compared to a long, centered guide on the others. The Innovative gates use billet diaphragm housings that bolt directly to the body where the the Turbonetics gate housing is die cast and sits on a tower of 4 cheezy sleeves. I've used the 'netics gates in the past with good results, as well, but if I'm paying for a new gate these days, Turbonetics better step up.

Form follows function. The dryer hose is a cold air intake. Ugly but effective at making power. ITB's are not a "Japanese" thing; they are the only way to go if you do any type of road racing, solo, etc. They offer instant and very controlable throttle response because of the very small area behind the throttle plates compared to a single throttle and a large plenum.

Tial and Innovative Turbo wastegates are right on par with HKS as far as quality goes. Stay away from the Turbonetics gates. I don't know about their "Newgen", but the other ones are really poor quality.

Check your cam timing. The computer also takes signal from the intake cam so that it knows the phase (TDC compression or exhaust?). If the timing belt has been replaced or off, this can happen. Matt Hutchens Motorworx Race Systems Japan

The only way to optimize sequential injection is to run the car on a brake dyno that can hold the car at a given RPM at full power and adjust the injector timing to where the engine makes the best HP or best emissions; whatever you're looking for. Then, step it to the next level and go again. Your cooling system better be up to the task of keeping the engine cool at sustained power output. That said, the hp increase you see under 3000 rpm won't be worth the dyno time. Above 3K there won't be a difference. The main reason behind sequential injection is economy and emissions.

I know this thread has been seriously hijacked , but one last word to the wise on carb-turbos. This mainly applies to higher power engines, but when running a long duration cam in a low compression engine with carbs, it is a PITA to get started. The low comp in combination with the cam will create an atmosphere where the mixture will not ignite. If you hit the accelerator pump, the air is not moving fast enough and the surfaces are cold which make for poor atomization. This in combination with no squeeze and it will be one of those cars that "you have to know how to start it". It's not uncommon for a 6-700hp carb-turbo L to have to crank for up to a minute to fire, let alone start. Matt

A little clarification on this: Notice I said "if you're trying to make substantial power" and "high boost pressure". There's nothing wrong with blow through carb systems if you're just looking to run around 10 psi on your "L". If you already have a set of carbs, you can save considerable money over the cost of an EFI system, and if tuned correctly, the max power curve won't be that different. Around 10 psi of boost can be tuned to run at WOT and will still run well at part throttle, although it will be rich, and you're gas milage will suck. At high boost pressures, it becomes a very risky adventure, at best. Lose a float bowl gasket (happens all the time at 20+ psi) and you're going to saturate the engine room in a gasoline mist . If you have a slight leak, even at low pressures, you're going to be chasing misfires, bogs, and all kinds of tuning demons. If one carb doesn't get boost in the float bowl, it will never pass gas into the booster. Two cylinders will not run.

EVERYTHING will be custom. It would be no different than putting a Toyota engine in your car. At this point, the only thing you have going for you is that your car came with EFI from the factory, so the fuel system is pretty much there. James is a smart dude and a good fabricator from what I've seen of his work. I'm sure he could make it work for you. Matt

Yea, the 4AG is still my favorite all-time engine, but I spend 80% of my time putting RB26's in other cars. Bummer......

The carb "sees" pressure in the runners and the float bowl at the same time due to a port in the front of the carb that's open to the surge tank. The OER carbs even have an inlet for a hose into the float bowl. Therefore, the carb works just like it would at atmo pressure. The fuel system requires a high pressure (efi) pump and a low pressure carb regulator. The difference is that it has a return line like an efi regulator so it can bypass the excess fuel from the high pressure pump (There are several different regulators that work in slightly different ways) It also has a boost reference port above the diaphragm that's connected to the surge tank. The fuel pressure will rise 1 psi for every 1 psi of boost. Therefore, if your static pressure is, say, 5 psi, at 10 pounds of boost there will be 15 psi of fuel pressure. Once again, it's acting exactly like an atmo engine, only the air is more dense. Here's where you run into problems with blow through carb turbo setups; Regardless of what people tell you about the turbo blowing air into the engine, that's not how it works. The turbo pressurizes the entire intake tract. If the engine has a 3000cc displacement, every 2 revolutions in atmo trim it displaces 3000cc of air. It only displaces 3000cc of air at 30 psi of boost as well. The difference is the air is more dense at 30 psi of boost. Carburetors do not see air density, they only see flow (signal) through the venturis. Therefore, If you jet the carb to run the correct AFR at WOT at 20 psi of boost at 5000 rpm, it will be super rich if you're trying to hold the engine at 5000 rpm at part throttle and no boost. At low boost pressures you can find a happy medium of rich one way and lean the other, but as the boost increases, so does the AFR spread. Here is where sub injectors come in. They also require the use of a high pressure pump (EFI), only they use an EFI regulator to maintain high pressure. This regulator is also boost referenced. A good sub injector controler will allow you to trim the injector pulse width, starting small at around 3-4 psi of boost and increase the amount of fuel as the boost rises, to keep the AFR constant. IMO, this is old school junk that had it's place in it's day. With the availability of cheap EFI, there's no reason to be running this set-up, other than nostalgia, if you're trying to make substantial power. Blow through carb turbo set-ups are a PITA to keep running correctly at high boost pressures. The fuel system becomes overly complex. Been there done that. Matt Hutchens Motorworx Race Systems

Sounds like an RB25E.

Same thoughts here. Bingo.

I modify pans for RB26 transplants into RWD cars all the time, but they're all front sump so it's basically removing the diff (a lot of cutting). Rear sump custom pan = $$$. The hardest thing is the rail. I would use the stock rail (a lot more cutting!!) and fab up an aluminum sheet metal pan from 0.125 5052 H34. It's easy to work and welds nice. Matt Hutchens Motorworx Race Systems

RB26's will support up to 500hp with the stock bottom end. The stock pistons don't last long above this and will usually drop some ring lands. Forged pistons are a must at this level. When you add 272 cams to the mix, the engine makes peak power at around 7500-8000 rpm. It needs to be shifted at around 8500-9000. The stock rods will not tolerate this. Best case is the big end elongates and eats up bearings. Worst case..........you ventilate the block . The RPM's required to make over 650hp require rods to keep it breathing. 750hp requies a fully counterweighted crank. Unfortunately, the only fully counterweighted cranks are billet and cost upwards of $4500. This is not opinion, but experience. I've built A LOT of RB26's. 500's the max RELIABLE hp with the stock motor. There is no such thing as a "reliable" 1000+hp RB26. At this level, they are "PRO STOCK" and need lots of attention to make them live. Whenever my website goes up again, I'll be putting up a complete build-up of a 900+hp RB26. On the 2JZ......Toyota's casting and forging technology is incredible. Until you've opened one of these engines, you just won't get it. The crank is a fully countered awesome forging and the rods are dowel pinned, cap-screw forged I beams. The stock pistons are cast though, and are the limiting factor. The stock pistons will support 700hp. With just forged pistons, this engine will tolerate tremendous power and rpm's. 1000hp 2J's are a dime-a-dozen in Japan because they're relatively cheap to build. On that note, the same goes for many of Toyota's engines. I've got a few 500hp 1600cc 4AG's running around with only the addition of forged pistons and ARP rod and main bolts. These are 10,000 rpm engines. They're also no fun to drive to work. Haven't had a rod or crank failure yet. The 1JZ is essentially the same as the 2JZ with a shorter stroke. The 1UZ all aluminum V8's use the same stuff as the J engines, but have 6 bolt mains; 4 up and 2 through the side. Some of the 3SGT's and 4AG's even came with forged pistons form the factory. The castings on all of these blocks are so tight, they require essentially no clean-up. I don't read the car-toons, but Popular Hotrodding had an article recently comparing the Street Glow 1300hp 2J (Camry??) to a 500 inch, 1300hp Pro Stock motor. The car's et's and trap speeds were almost identical. They were amazed, though, because the 2J was using the stock block and crank. However, when asked about turbocharging the 500cid V8, the reply was 2500hp at the low end and 3500hp if it was serious....... Way outa my league... Matt Hutchens Motorworx Race Systems

All three castins (RB20, 25, and 26) are the same for 4WD's, as far as the oil pan goes. If you use the steel pan for the Z31, you will lose the windage trays that bolt to the crank girdle. You will have to make or extensively modify the pick-up and because the 4WD pick-up boss sits farther outboard, you must modify the pan to clear it. Unfortunately, Nissan didn't extend the oil galley casting farther back so the 2WD pick up boss could be drilled; as is possible with the L engine. Matt Hutchens Motorworx Race Systems