cheftrd

The low down on lead..... Ever heard of Domascus steel? It's folded steel. Heated red hot, folded, hammered, heated, folded, hammered......add infinium. What keeps the steel from flaking and falling apart? The forging pressure of hitting red hot steel with a hammer welds the steel together. This is what happens in cast iron heads with no hardened valve seats. The valve seats are cut into the soft cast iron. Every time the valve slams closed, it "welds" itself to the seat. The next time it opens, it takes a microscopic ammount of the seat with it. Over time, the soft cast iron seat erodes, and the valve moves up in the pocket. This is where lead comes in. It coats everything in the combustion chamber, including the valves and seats. Lead keeps the seat from bonding to the valve, and wala! No erosion. Any aluminim head has hardened seats installed. I read a paper from SAE a while back and more recently, an article somewhere that states the problem of seat erosion with unleaded gasoline is specific to cast iron heads where the seat is machined into the head itself. Any head that has insert seats installed (any aluminum head) is ok to run unleaded gasoline. For an insert to tolerate the machining, heat, and abuse, it has to be made of a hard material. The hardness required to withstand the above will easily tolerate unleaded gasoline.

That's most likely out of Japan from the 80's. There were lots of good header manufacturers that have closed up shop since then.

Does it have a little hole in it? If so, then........

They look a lot like the Veilside manifolds. They will definately be better than the stockers, especially with the large openings on the HKS turbos. The current price is awesome, but that guy only has a 31 feedback and most are from payment to someone.....

One of my customers has a stock RB25 with 264 cams, the GReddy intake with Q45, 80mm throttle, Innovative T66 turbo on a Trust SUS manifold, 700cc injectors, and Electromotive TEC3. 501 WHP @ 1.5kg boost.

For the most part, the 25 and 26 are identical to install into an old Z. The exceptions are the intake manifold on the 25 comes across the motor, possibly causing some clearance issues (buy a GReddy manifold-problem solved), the turbo down pipe, and the oil pan. The 25, being a smallish single is less complicated to make a down pipe for. The Z31 RB20 oil pan and pick-up (strainer) are a direct bolt on for the 25, but take some modification for the 26.

If the pump has any oil residue in it, it will prime by itself. Pull all the plugs and disable the injectors and coils. turn the engine over with the starter until you see pressure. 30 seconds at a shot is OK with the plugs pulled. It may take two or three times. If it were a bone dry pump, you can get oil into it by the inlet to the oil filter in the side of the block. Normal rotation at starter speed won't do any damage to the engine, even with no oil pressure.

The big thing with the bolt sticking out of the top of it, right in front of the two blue hoses.

Nissan also made a DOHC RB24. It shares valve train parts with the RB20. I've never seen one in Japan, but there are aftermarket parts for it.

The left mount is the stock Z31 mount. http://www.motorworx.com/images/S30%20Project%20022.jpg The Right mount gets cut down and an angle change. http://www.motorworx.com/images/S30%20RB26%20Engine%20Mount%2010.jpg It makes the engine sit a lot lower in the car and with the proper slant. It's really easy, you just cut it at the angle of the mount on the cross member until the bottom of the oil pan is parallel with the cross member. I weld a flat piece of 4130 .125 to it and drill the mount hole and locater hole for the insulator where they need to be. http://www.motorworx.com/images/S30%20Project%20037.jpg

http://www.motorworx.com/images/S30%20Project%20015.jpg http://www.motorworx.com/images/S30%20Project%20016.jpg http://www.motorworx.com/images/S30%20Project%20019.jpg http://www.motorworx.com/images/S30%20Project%20021.jpg

They're old and may have nozzles that are partially clogged, not closing all the way, or the end of the pintle long gone. They can be serviced, but most of the Z32 TT injectors I've ever delt with are almost impossible to get out of the buckets without ruining them due to years of being baked. They may have a bad spray pattern or not closing all the way which makes the engine run like crap in the lower rpm's but won't be noticable in the upper range.

Because the RB26 has been done over and over and over again. HKS is the only one who still retains some "secret" info for keeping the head in place. The limiting factor on the RB26 is the head lifting at around 1200-1300hp. It will pull the bolts right out of the block, stripping the threads. Larger bolts will crack the cylinder between the bolt hole and cylinder. With the exception of how HKS keeps the head on their engine, there is no new development to be done for this engine. This is why I hate building this engine.....it's BORING. There is no new R&D to be done. BTW, I suspect that HKS uses much larger studs and installs thick sleeves, in addition to a partial filling of the block. Head modifications are well documented. What Jamie has done is right in line with the Nismo GT500 circuit race engines. This info is even published. The port shape does not change. Smooth the bowl and short-side radius, knife edge the splitter, push the splitter back about 1 cm into a "V" in higher rpm engines. Exhaust side gets the "lump" removed and the bowl and short-side radius cleaned up. Knife edging the splitter in the exhaust port will give very small returns. Both ports can be manifold matched and the valve guide boss' gets smoothed into a "V". Remove the intake squish pad and chamfer the exhaust. These are the basic head mods that every tuner in Japan does. The pads in the combustion chamber are not quench pads designed for inert effects, like an OHV American V8. They are squish areas to promote chamber turbulance and a faster burn at lower engine speeds. Mid level engines have the intake side removed and the exhaust side chamfered. Full race engines have both pads removed (the Pulsar GTI-R SR20 chamber is like this from the factory). Removing the pad on the intake side has two effects, besides lowering compression, it unshrouds the intake valves for a substantial power increase and eliminates pocket detonation. Without this mod, you will burn the pistons on the intake side when getting near 600hp. You will not hear the detonation, but it's there. A knock meter won't pick it up in a 700 hp engine because mechanical noise is substantial.

If you're not going to drag it, and only look for 500, the R200 will be good to go. You're best off going with the R33 trans and an OS close ratio gear set.

If you're going to max out the power "a lot", and want the drive train to live, be prepaired to shell out $10K for a dog box from Hollinger or GForce. If all you do is drag, you could go with a GM Powerglide auto with adapter for about $4000. The rear end will need a live axle from Ford or GM. 700hp will make a quick lunch of the R33 tranny and the R200. Stub shafts for the diff will go way before that.

Jamie, Why not just buy the 26 seal set? It's easy to get these parts from a number of importers, including myself. RB26 valve seals I keep in stock and would only take a week or so to get to you.

Dribbling fuel injector(s).

I think the screws comming lose are from pumps that have been disassembled once (my theory). They are very tight from the factory (you have to use an impact driver to get them out) but people put them back in with max hand pressure on a #3 screw driver. I always use loc-tite and haven't had a problem.

I've never seen a failure with 33 crank through 9K rpm, but all my motors are drag motors and do not see sustained rpm's. I've never done the sleeve mod, so I don't know. If it's just pressed on I don't see it as a problem, but to keep it from spinning, it will have to be welded, keyed, or pinned. In this case, the crank would have to be removed. JUN does this mod.

Q. What fails on the stock oil pump? A. The rotor splits and breaks into a hundred pieces. Q. Why is the HKS one SOO expensive? A. Because it's a high volume pump using an aftermarkes casting. Very low production and high quality. No stock parts. Q. What is differant about the Nismo pump than stock? A. Hardened rotor and scroll in a stock housing. Q. What can be done to the OE pump to improve it? A. Nothing The stock 26 red line is 7,000 and change. I've seen pumps go bad even when held under the stock red line in 32 motors. The problem is NOT THE PUMP. It's the crank. It has a minimal contact patch with the pump rotor. A Nismo pump is a bandaid. It will fail too. If you're that worried about it, get a big oil pressure warning light. When it comes on, kill the motor. I can't count the times I've had a pump failure on crank snout driven oil pumps at max RPM. In every case where the engine was shut down right away, there was no damage.

It's been about 15 years since I've worked on an L engine, but if I remember correctly, the P90 had a flat top piston and a large chamber, while the N47 had a dish piston with a smaller chamber. When L's were available in Japan "back in the day" we used to use the P90 head on the stock N47 block for a cheap turbo engine. It will lower the CR significantly, but I don't think there were any problems; remove one, replace with the other.

Jamie, This is something a good machine shop can do. They are going to have to make an extension for the oil pump drive and press it on to the snout of the crank. Then machine it so that the drive surfaces match. A new 33 crank runs about $800. I can send you the length you need if your local machine shop can do it.